Do you know what “shawlette” is? It’s a very nice shape between regular shawl and scarf. It is not very large and not too small and thus can be worn in a variety of ways. My new Windy Morning Shawlette is finished and I am happy to share its free pattern with you. You can also see more pictures of this easy project HERE. Enjoy!
You will need:
- Yarn in 3 shades. I used Stone Washed by Scheepjes in shades Crystal Quartz (814 - 2 skeins), Amazonite (813 - 1 skein) and Boulder Opal (804 - 1 skein).
Please, read my review about this yarn HERE). You can choose and purchase your shades via Scheepjes.com (NL), Deramores* or Wool Warehouse* (both retailers ship yarn internationally) and Paradise Fibers* (US).
- Crochet hook Clover Soft Touch* 3.25mm (D)
- Scissors and tapestry needle to weave yarn tails in.
Level
BeginnerSize
The size of your finished shawlette will depend on yarn and hook you choose and also on your personal gauge. My shawlette is approx. 175cm (70in) long and 28cm (11in) wide in the widest part (with border).
The construction os shawlette is very simple. It consists of 3 parts: incresing part, central part and decreasing part. And you can easily adjust the size of your shawlette. For example:
- to make it wider - crochet more rows with increases.
- to make it longer and wider - crochet more rows with increases + crochet more rows on the central part (without increase)
- to make it longer but with the same width - just add more rows without increases on the central part.
Gauge
Using stitch pattern - 22 dc x 9 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4in x 4in)Stitch guide and Abbreviations
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.
st(s) - stitch(es)
ch - chain
sp(s) - space(s)
yo - yarn over
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
sl st (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc (half double crochet) - yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through all three lps.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
dc3tog (double crochet 3 together) - *yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook.
Important notes
1. Ch2 in the beginning of every other row counts as 1st dc.
2. Change colour on the last yarn-over of the last dc/dc3tog of the relevant row.
Changing color on the increasing and central parts (on the last yarn-over of last dc):
Changing color on the decreasing part (on the last yarn-over of last dc3tog):
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2016. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
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Color Key: C1 – shade 814, C2 – shade 813, C3 - shade 804
Color way:
Rows 1-81 with C1.
Rows 82-87 with C2.
Rows 88-91 with C3.
Rows 92-97 with C1.
Rows 98-103 with C2.
Rows 104-109 with C3.
Rows 110-113 with C1.
Rows 114-121 with C2.
Rows 122-129 with C3.
Rows 130-135 with C2.
Rows 136-139 with C3.
Rows 140-147 with C2.
Rows 148-155 with C3.
Rows 156-163 with C2.
INSTRUCTIONS
Increasing part
Row 1. Make slip knot and ch4, then 3 dc in 1st ch. Turn. (3 dc+ ch3-sp)
Row 2. Ch4, skip 1st dc, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next st. Turn (2 dc+1ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 3. Ch2 (counts as 1st dc here and in the entire pattern), 1dc in next ch1-sp, 1dc in next dc, 3dc in last ch4-sp. Turn (6 dc)
Row 4. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* twice, 1dc in last sp. Turn (3dc+ 2ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 5. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* twice, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (8 dc)
Row 6. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 3 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (4dc+ 3ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 7. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 3 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (10 dc)
Row 8. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 4 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (5dc+ 4ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 9. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 4 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (12 dc)
Row 10. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 5 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (6dc+ 5ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 11. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 5 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (14 dc)
Row 12. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 6 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (7dc+ 6ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 13. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 6 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (16 dc)
Row 14. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 7 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (8dc+ 7ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 15. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 7 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (18 dc)
Row 16. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 8 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (9dc+ 8ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 17. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 8 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (20 dc)
Row 18. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 9 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (10dc+ 9ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 19. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 9 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (22 dc)
Row 20. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 10 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (11dc+ 10ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 21. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 10 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (24 dc)
Row 22. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 11 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (12dc+ 11ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 23. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 11 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (26 dc)
Row 24. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 12 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (13dc+ 12ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 25. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 12 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (28 dc)
Row 26. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 13 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (14dc+ 13ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 27. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 13 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (30 dc)
Row 28. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 14 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (15dc+ 14ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 29. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 14 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (32 dc)
Row 30. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 15 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (16dc+ 15ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 31. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 15 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (34 dc)
Row 32. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 16 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (17dc+ 16ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 33. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 16 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (36 dc)
Row 34. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 17 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (18dc+ 17ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 35. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 17 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (38 dc)
Row 36. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 18 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (19dc+ 18ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 37. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 18 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (40 dc)
Row 38. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 19 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (20dc+ 19ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 39. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 19 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (42 dc)
Row 40. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 20 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (21dc+ 20ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 41. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 20 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (44 dc)
Row 42. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 21 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (22dc+ 21ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 43. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 21 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (46 dc)
Row 44. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 22 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (23dc+ 22ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 45. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 22 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (48 dc)
Row 46. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 23 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (24dc+ 23ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 47. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 23 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (50 dc)
Row 48. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 24 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (25dc+ 24ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 49. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 24 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (52 dc)
Row 50. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 25 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (26dc+ 25ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 51. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 25 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (54 dc)
Row 52. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 26 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (27dc+ 26ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 53. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 26 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (56 dc)
Row 54. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 27 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (28dc+ 27ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 55. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 27 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (58 dc)
Row 56. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 28 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (29dc+ 28ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Central part
Row 57. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 27 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn. (58 dc)Rows 58-107. Repeat rows 56 and 57.
Row 108. Repeat row 56.
Decreasing part
Row 109. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 27 times, 1dc3tog (work 1st dc in next sp, work 2nd dc in next dc, work 3rd dc in last sp – here and in the rest of the pattern). Turn. (55 dc + 1dc3tog)Row 110. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 27 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (28dc+ 27ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 111. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 26 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (53 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 112. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 26 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (27dc+ 26ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 113. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 25 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (51 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 114. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 25 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (26dc+ 25ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 115. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 24 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (49 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 116. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 24 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (25dc+ 24ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 117. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 23 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (47 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 118. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 23 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (24dc+ 23ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 119. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 22 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (45 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 120. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 22 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (23dc+ 22ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 121. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 21 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (43 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 122. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 21 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (22dc+ 21ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 123. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 20 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (41 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 124. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 20 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (21dc+ 20ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 125. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 19 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (39 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 126. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 19 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (20dc+ 19ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 127. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 18 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (37 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 128. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 18 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (19dc+ 18ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 129. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 17 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (35 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 130. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 17 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (18dc+ 17ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 131. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 16 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (33 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 132. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 16 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (17dc+ 16ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 133. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 15 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (31 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 134. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 15 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (16dc+ 15ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 135. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 14 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (29 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 136. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 14 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (15dc+ 14ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 137. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 13 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (27 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 138. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 13 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (14dc+ 13ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 139. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 12 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (25 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 140. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 12 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (13dc+ 12ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 141. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 11 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (23 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 142. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 11 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (12dc+ 11ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 143. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 10 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (21 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 144. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 10 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (11dc+ 10ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 145. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 9 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (19 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 146. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 9 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (10dc+ 9ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 147. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 8 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (17 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 148. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 8 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (9dc+ 8ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 149. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 7 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (15 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 150. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 7 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (8dc+ 7ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 151. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 6 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (13 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 152. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 6 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (7dc+ 6ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 153. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 5 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (11 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 154. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 5 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (6dc+ 5ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 155. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 4 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (9 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 156. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 4 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (5dc+ 4ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 157. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 3 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (7 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 158. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 3 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (4dc+ 3ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 159. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 2 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (5 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 160. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 2 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (3dc+ 2ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 161. Ch2, 1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc, 1dc3tog. Turn. (3 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 162. Ch4, skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1, 1dc in last sp. Turn (2dc+ 1ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 163. Ch2, 1dc3tog. Fasten off. Weave yarn tails in.
Congratulations! The body of your shawlette is now finished!
Border with petals
You make a border on the side of shawlette with increases and decreases. With C3.
On wrong side insert the hook in the same ch where 3dc of rnd 1 were made, pull yarn up and make ch1.
Row 1. *ch4, 1sc in next sp* repeat till you come to another end of shawlette (I got 82 ch4-sps). Make the last sc of this row in last dc3tog. Turn.
Row 2. ch1. *(1hdc, 3dc, 1hdc) in next ch4-sp, 1 sl st in next sc* repeat till you come to another end of shawlette. Make the last sl st in the same ch where you attached the yarn (I got 82 petals). Fasten off. Weave yarn tails in.
Ta-dah! You are all done!! And I really hope you like your new Windy Shawlette. Please-please, share the picture with me! You can, for example, do it in my Ravelry group HERE.
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A new release and a new Mandala. Again! Last spring my friend Joana asked me to design a Celtic mandala for her. My husband is very much into Celtic theme too and he immediately supported this idea. For me it was first ever experience of designing Celtic knots, I studied different images and books. But as always, my inspiration brought me somewhere else (as I cannot really control the flow of creative energy), so as a result this Mandala doesn’t look very Celtic – and “knots” more remind of dancing butterflies. I named this mandala after Joana because it was she who inspired me to start working on it. But I loved to crochet different knots so much that maybe in the future I will design something really looking Celtic…
And so far let me introduce a Joana’s Mandala to you! I usually use many bright and contrasting colours for my mandala designs. But this time I wanted to go for something calm, plain and elegant maybe? I wanted this design not to appeal with colors but with clear lines and very obvious image.
Joana’s Mandala pattern is available for purchase HERE on Ravelry HERE on Etsy and HERE on Loveknitting.
Add this Pattern to your Ravelry Queue
This mandala is designed in overlay crochet with lots of front post stitches. But it is not so stiff as many other projects made in this technique. This time I decided to use double crochet (US term) stitches instead of single crochet – for the background. And the mandala turned out to be soft and pliable.
This mandala is made with blend cotton yarn Stone Washed* by Scheepjes (read my review about this yarn HERE) in shades Boulder Opal (804), Amazonite (813) and Moon Stone (801). As it is already told by the name of the yarn itself, it has a stone washed effect. The shades are not bold and solid, but they have a kind of antique look. And I am very satisfied with how this particular yarn worked for my new mandala. If you are in US you can check Stone Washed yarn at Paradise Fibers*.
I used Clover Soft Touch* crochet hook 3.25 mm (D) and mandala turned out to be approx. 39 cm (15 ½ inches) in diameter. The difficulty level of this pattern is Intermediate because of front post stitches. Working with this pattern demands your attention and concentration. It is not difficult to follow (especially if you worked with overlay crochet before), but you need to read instructions carefully and count well. So that the stitch count on every round is correct. I enjoyed working with this mandala and hope you will also have lots of fun!
As other crochet mandalas this one can be used as a table decoration, appliqué for a pillow cover, stool cover, potholder and even a round pillow. You can read about different ways to use crochet mandala in THIS post (don’t forget to read comments as well, as there are some great TIPs there).
I have an idea to create a wide round border for this mandala to transform it into a rug (for meditation for example) or a medium sized throw for a chair or sofa… or even a baby blanket. It is just an idea so far, but I will be working on it :) So… to be continued.
And yes! Almost forgot to tell that Joana's mandala has exactly the same stitch count on the last round as needed for Dandelion Border. So you can square it up with this pattern!
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*This blog post contains affiliate links. Thanks for your support!
Ta-dah! My new project is finished! It is a shawlette and I named it Windy Morning, mostly because it was terribly windy on the day we (my husbamnd and me) made final pictures. This will be a short blog post to show you how this shawlette looks and in which ways it can be worn.
Last week I posted a few sneak peeks of my work in progress. By that time shawlette was almost finished and I was deciding on the color for the border with petals. At first I wanted to use contrasting colors to give a small bright accent. This shawlette is made with Stone Washed* yarn by Scheepjes and I used shades Amazonite (813), Crystal Quartz (814) and Boulder Opal (804) for the body. And then I was hesitating if I really should add anything or just stay within the same colour palette.
Thanks so much to everyone who helped me by commenting on Facebook post. Many color choices did sound awesome, but since I didn’t have many shades of Stone Washed yarn in my stash, I decided to go for Boulder Opal (804) again, and use it for the border. It also helped to reduce the yardages. Or maybe yardages is not the right word here. But I didn’t have to use a new skein of yarn. Sometimes less is more, indeed!
To say I don’t like to be pictured is to say nothing, hehe. Unfortunately my friend was not available on the day I wanted to make final shots. So there was nothing left for me but to be a model myself… My idea was to show different ways this shawlette can be worn. It was cold and windy on that day… But anyway – here are the pictures!
As I've already mentioned the shape of this project is very simple and easily adjustable. You can make it longer or shorter, wider or narrow. Free pattern will be published next week here on my blog. I believe it will be suitable for beginners, as there are no intricate or very difficult stitches used. You can make this shawlette in one colour only, or add more stripes according to your taste. Just everything you wish!
And I am off to write the pattern down… See you soon!!
UPDATE: the pattern is published and is available HERE.
You can subscribe to weekly newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
*This blog post contains affiliate links. Thanks for your support!
Last week I posted a few sneak peeks of my work in progress. By that time shawlette was almost finished and I was deciding on the color for the border with petals. At first I wanted to use contrasting colors to give a small bright accent. This shawlette is made with Stone Washed* yarn by Scheepjes and I used shades Amazonite (813), Crystal Quartz (814) and Boulder Opal (804) for the body. And then I was hesitating if I really should add anything or just stay within the same colour palette.
Thanks so much to everyone who helped me by commenting on Facebook post. Many color choices did sound awesome, but since I didn’t have many shades of Stone Washed yarn in my stash, I decided to go for Boulder Opal (804) again, and use it for the border. It also helped to reduce the yardages. Or maybe yardages is not the right word here. But I didn’t have to use a new skein of yarn. Sometimes less is more, indeed!
To say I don’t like to be pictured is to say nothing, hehe. Unfortunately my friend was not available on the day I wanted to make final shots. So there was nothing left for me but to be a model myself… My idea was to show different ways this shawlette can be worn. It was cold and windy on that day… But anyway – here are the pictures!
As I've already mentioned the shape of this project is very simple and easily adjustable. You can make it longer or shorter, wider or narrow. Free pattern will be published next week here on my blog. I believe it will be suitable for beginners, as there are no intricate or very difficult stitches used. You can make this shawlette in one colour only, or add more stripes according to your taste. Just everything you wish!
And I am off to write the pattern down… See you soon!!
UPDATE: the pattern is published and is available HERE.
You can subscribe to weekly newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
*This blog post contains affiliate links. Thanks for your support!
Are you a “blocker”? I have joined “blockers’ club” not long ago and before that (shame on me) I didn’t block my projects. But when I tried wet blocking for the first time, I felt like entering a totally new world. The world of clean lines and perfect shapes. What is another reason to start blocking? It makes your projects look professional. No matter if it is a small granny square or a huge blanket.
You may find lots of tips and tricks about how to block crochet projects and you can also use different tools for that. I usually use a small puzzle mat (a toy for little children) and simple “no-brand” sewing pins. The puzzle pieces can be joined together for a larger blocking space and pins are very cheap, so you can change them every few months. The disadvantage of this method is that it is tricky to get, for example, squares of exactly the same size. And if you want a perfect result, you need to measure again and again.
It is of course possible to draw lines on the mat (though a little bit tricky), or… Another option is to try a new Scheepjes blocking board.
Scheepjes has just released a brand new product – a wooden blocking board. And as a member of bloggers group I got one to test, and just to keep it as a gift. I was not asked to write any reviews, but after I tried it, I thought it might be good to share my opinion.
First I should mention I have never tried the same kind of the boards before, so I cannot compare and analyze. I will just give you my opinion about what I saw and what I tried.
Scheepjes blocking board is a solid wooden desk with holes, and it is accompanied by carrying bag and set of 8 metal pins wrapped in plastic. This amount of pins is enough to block all basic shapes (square, rectangle, triangle, octagon) except of circle and probably hexagon, or at least I haven’t find a way to do it. And there are more possibilities!
You can also block the projects of irregular shape! And even several projects of different shapes at once. If you need more pins (or you lose them) – there will be additional pins available for purchase.
The board has lots of holes, and looks like a snowflake :) It allows to block small to medium size projects (starting with 3 cm up to max. 31 cm), so beloved 12 inches afghans are also covered here. The sizes are quite flexible and as you can see from the picture below, some of them are introduced at the market for the first time (as Scheepjes states). It means existing similar boards from other brands don’t give the same possibilities. There are no numbers printed on the board, so you will need to measure where to screw the pins - for each project separately.
Another advantage of Scheepjes board is that it has a thicker and more solid bottom, so that pins screw extra deep (1.5cm) into the plate. Why is the depth important? Because the deeper pins are screwed in, the more chance is they will not start to lean inwards and will keep an even tension when lots of grannies are added. So far I don’ have many finished grannies to test this feature but I tried to shake the pins with my hand – and I used a little bit of pressure for that. Pins seem to be stable, but you really need to screw them inside a lot.
Let’s see how it works. I’ve made two sample examples of granny squares. They are crocheted with 100% acrylic yarn Colour Crafter* by Scheepjes. I've always thought artificial fibers are not blocked very well, so I decided to give it a try with my new board. I didn’t have any size in mind, because I only needed an exact stitch count on the last round. I measured my unblocked square and it’s approx. 21 cm, so I thought it would be good to block it to 22 cm.
I screwed 8 pins into the holes in equal distance from the center (you need 1 pin in each of 4 corners and one pin in the center of each side). My square is not a classical granny one, I just made it up with no pattern. So to block it I had to place pins between the stitches (you just need to find a central one on each side). I pulled the square onto the pins, sprayed it with the water and… left it to dry out. That’s it.
And here is the result. The difference between blocked and unblocked square is obvious, isn’t? Even though 22 cm is not the size stated on the board - I just pinned not the last but previous round, and it still worked very well! So you may experiment with sizes as well.
Scheepjes blocking board is available for purchase via any local shop HERE. Retail price is € 31.50. These boards wil be soon available via Deramores* and Wool Warehouse* - both with international shipping, and on Paradise Fibers* (US).
The pins for Scheepjes board are quite thick (0.5cm in diameter) so I am not sure they will work equally well for items made with delicate, very thin yarn. You can probably use them for very open designs with lots of spaces. But for dense fabric made with fine yarns this board will probably not work and you will need to use other means. But anyway Scheepjes board is ideal for blocking the majority of small to medium projects. So it will become a very useful instrument in your pocket.
*This blog post contains affiliate links. Thanks for your support!
You may find lots of tips and tricks about how to block crochet projects and you can also use different tools for that. I usually use a small puzzle mat (a toy for little children) and simple “no-brand” sewing pins. The puzzle pieces can be joined together for a larger blocking space and pins are very cheap, so you can change them every few months. The disadvantage of this method is that it is tricky to get, for example, squares of exactly the same size. And if you want a perfect result, you need to measure again and again.
It is of course possible to draw lines on the mat (though a little bit tricky), or… Another option is to try a new Scheepjes blocking board.
Scheepjes has just released a brand new product – a wooden blocking board. And as a member of bloggers group I got one to test, and just to keep it as a gift. I was not asked to write any reviews, but after I tried it, I thought it might be good to share my opinion.
First I should mention I have never tried the same kind of the boards before, so I cannot compare and analyze. I will just give you my opinion about what I saw and what I tried.
Scheepjes blocking board is a solid wooden desk with holes, and it is accompanied by carrying bag and set of 8 metal pins wrapped in plastic. This amount of pins is enough to block all basic shapes (square, rectangle, triangle, octagon) except of circle and probably hexagon, or at least I haven’t find a way to do it. And there are more possibilities!
You can also block the projects of irregular shape! And even several projects of different shapes at once. If you need more pins (or you lose them) – there will be additional pins available for purchase.
The board has lots of holes, and looks like a snowflake :) It allows to block small to medium size projects (starting with 3 cm up to max. 31 cm), so beloved 12 inches afghans are also covered here. The sizes are quite flexible and as you can see from the picture below, some of them are introduced at the market for the first time (as Scheepjes states). It means existing similar boards from other brands don’t give the same possibilities. There are no numbers printed on the board, so you will need to measure where to screw the pins - for each project separately.
 |
| "Rechthoek" is rectangle and "Vierkant" is square |
Another advantage of Scheepjes board is that it has a thicker and more solid bottom, so that pins screw extra deep (1.5cm) into the plate. Why is the depth important? Because the deeper pins are screwed in, the more chance is they will not start to lean inwards and will keep an even tension when lots of grannies are added. So far I don’ have many finished grannies to test this feature but I tried to shake the pins with my hand – and I used a little bit of pressure for that. Pins seem to be stable, but you really need to screw them inside a lot.
 |
| Scheepjes pins screw extra deep into wooden board |
Let’s see how it works. I’ve made two sample examples of granny squares. They are crocheted with 100% acrylic yarn Colour Crafter* by Scheepjes. I've always thought artificial fibers are not blocked very well, so I decided to give it a try with my new board. I didn’t have any size in mind, because I only needed an exact stitch count on the last round. I measured my unblocked square and it’s approx. 21 cm, so I thought it would be good to block it to 22 cm.
I screwed 8 pins into the holes in equal distance from the center (you need 1 pin in each of 4 corners and one pin in the center of each side). My square is not a classical granny one, I just made it up with no pattern. So to block it I had to place pins between the stitches (you just need to find a central one on each side). I pulled the square onto the pins, sprayed it with the water and… left it to dry out. That’s it.
And here is the result. The difference between blocked and unblocked square is obvious, isn’t? Even though 22 cm is not the size stated on the board - I just pinned not the last but previous round, and it still worked very well! So you may experiment with sizes as well.
 |
| Squares are made with 100% premium acrylic yarn Colour Crafter by Scheepjes |
Scheepjes blocking board is available for purchase via any local shop HERE. Retail price is € 31.50. These boards wil be soon available via Deramores* and Wool Warehouse* - both with international shipping, and on Paradise Fibers* (US).
The pins for Scheepjes board are quite thick (0.5cm in diameter) so I am not sure they will work equally well for items made with delicate, very thin yarn. You can probably use them for very open designs with lots of spaces. But for dense fabric made with fine yarns this board will probably not work and you will need to use other means. But anyway Scheepjes board is ideal for blocking the majority of small to medium projects. So it will become a very useful instrument in your pocket.
Conclusion
- Though there is a wide variety of available sizes and shapes for blocking, you cannot use this board to block a perfect circle or some intricate shapes. And the size of the board allows blocking only projects up to 31 cm large.
- The deeper bottom of the board guarantees that pins will not lean inwards when many projects are added.
- Scheepjes blocking board will save you lots of time, as you can block many projects at once with no need to measure and pin anything. And with extra pins, you can also block projects of different shapes and sizes at once! And when you need to finish, for example, a blanket in a very short time – every minute of making is precious and counts.
*This blog post contains affiliate links. Thanks for your support!
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