Time is definitely flying for me. It seems like Part 2 for a Peacock Tail Bag CAL was published a few days ago, but it’s Wednesday again!! And time for Part 3 already :) I noticed that last week some of you had difficulties with stitch count and color placement. So please, first read Important Notes below before jumping to a tutorial. Just a remind that you can check General Information about this CAL HERE. And Part 1 is available HERE.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
Part 4 can be found HERE.
I’ve just come home from Greece where I spent the whole week with my family with lots of sea bath and sunshine. I am dying to share lots of pictures with you. But I also understand it’s probably not the right moment as you probably would like to get crocheting at once. But anyway I would love to send you a bit of Greek warmness with this “postcard”.
1. Last week some of you had problems with figuring correct stitch count. I agree that instructions in the beginning of each row might be a bit confusing and I am sorry for that. But please keep in mind that directions in the very beginning always give an idea where the very first stitch is placed. They are ONLY for placement!! And Instructions (even though they contain the word “next”) already contain the 1st stitch. So when in the beginning you read: hdc in next 5 sts, it means you should make 5 sts in total in the beginning (and not just 1st stitch, and then 5 next). Hope that helps!!
2. Each row of this part begins with standing hdc, as in previous part. And all tr4togs are “modified”. If you missed this information on previous part – please check tutorials HERE (standing hdc) and HERE (modified tr4tog).
3. Some of you were concerned about the symmetry of “wings” on the front and back parts. It’s true they are not totally symmetrical (I did my best to adjust them), but this should work itself out after the band is added.
4. Please, don’t worry if the colors for front and back (and also for Deep and Pastel versions) don’t correspond. That’s ok! They should not necessarily be the same.
5. And last but VERY important note about the colors. As you know the gauge is very important in this project, especially if you are using the kit. I know that some of you were not able to obtain correct gauge and your bag is becoming larger. There is a danger you will run out of particular shades in the end. But you can handle it by changing colorway on the back, as it is not important at all.
I decided to give you the colorway for the rest of the pattern (after Part 3) so that you can see how many rows are made with each shade. And so that you can predict if you run out of yarn or not, and “play” with colorway for back.
Here is an example of what you can do: As you can see, in Deep version C5 is only used for 2(!!) rows on the front, and never on the back. So if your bag is obviously bigger, please, feel free to use C5 on some rows of the back instead of C1, C2 or C3.
It's a bit more complicated with Pastel version.. If you are not sure about the yardages, please complete the front first (all 5 parts) and then finish the back with yarn left :)
Row 20 – C2 (C1), C7 (C9)
Row 21 – C4 (C4), C6 (C10)
Row 22 – C5 (C3), C9 (C8)
Row 23 – C2 (C2), C7 (C7)
Row 24 – C4 (C4), C6 (C10)
Row 25 – C1 (C2), C10 (C7)
Row 26 – C4 (C1), C6 (C9)
Row 27 – C5 (C3), C9 (C8)
Row 28 – C3 (C4), C8 (C9)
Row 29 – C2 (C2), C7 (C7)
Row 30 – C3 (C1), C8 (C9)
Row 31 – C1 (C3), C6 (C8)
Row 32 – C3 (C2), C8 (C9)
And maybe another postcard for you not to be bored with too much text? :)
If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
FPtr2tog front post treble 2 together
FPtr3tog front post treble 3 together
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
Change to yarn C3 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in FPtr of row 12 below, sk no sts, hdc in next 2 sts, FPtr around same st of row 11 where 1st FPsc was made, 3Fptr around next st of row 11, FPtr around next st of row 11, sk ch4-sp* 8 times, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in FPtr of row 12 below, sk no sts, hdc in 5 next sts; fasten off. (99)
Row 15. Change to yarn C1 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 7 sts, *FPtr around ch4-sp below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts, FPtr around ch4-sp below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st; fasten off. (99)
Row 16. Change to yarn C3 (C10). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around each of 5 FPtr below, sk 5 sts* 8 times, hdc in 3 next sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in 5 next sts. (108)
Row 17. Change to yarn C4 (C9). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in next 9 sts, *FPtr around FPtr of row 15 below, sk 1 st, hdc in 3 next sts, FPtr around FPtr of row 15 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 7 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 3 sts; fasten off. (108)
Row 18. Change to yarn C3 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 11 sts, *FPtr3tog (around 2nd, 3rd and 4th FPtr of row 16 below), sk no sts, hdc in next 12 sts* 8 times; fasten off. (115)
Row 19. Change to yarn C1 (C8). Start in 1st hdc.
Note: when making FPtr2tog - work every leg around each of two FPtr of row 17 lying to the right and to the left from FPtr3tog of previous row. Feel free to replace FPtr2tog with FPdtr2tog if it’s too tight.
Hdc in next 11 sts, *FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 12 sts* 8 times, fasten off. (115)
*************************************************************
Please, try to keep the same gauge as for front. Check measurements after row 19.
Row 14. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 5 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, fasten off. (99)
Row 15. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 97 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (99)
Row 16. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
2hdc in 2nd st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, *hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, fasten off. (108)
Row 17. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 106 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (108)
Row 18. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 10 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 11 sts*, 8 times, hdc in last st, fasten off. (115)
Row 19. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 113 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (115)
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.
Front:
And back:
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
Part 4 can be found HERE.
I’ve just come home from Greece where I spent the whole week with my family with lots of sea bath and sunshine. I am dying to share lots of pictures with you. But I also understand it’s probably not the right moment as you probably would like to get crocheting at once. But anyway I would love to send you a bit of Greek warmness with this “postcard”.
Important Notes:
1. Last week some of you had problems with figuring correct stitch count. I agree that instructions in the beginning of each row might be a bit confusing and I am sorry for that. But please keep in mind that directions in the very beginning always give an idea where the very first stitch is placed. They are ONLY for placement!! And Instructions (even though they contain the word “next”) already contain the 1st stitch. So when in the beginning you read: hdc in next 5 sts, it means you should make 5 sts in total in the beginning (and not just 1st stitch, and then 5 next). Hope that helps!!
2. Each row of this part begins with standing hdc, as in previous part. And all tr4togs are “modified”. If you missed this information on previous part – please check tutorials HERE (standing hdc) and HERE (modified tr4tog).
3. Some of you were concerned about the symmetry of “wings” on the front and back parts. It’s true they are not totally symmetrical (I did my best to adjust them), but this should work itself out after the band is added.
4. Please, don’t worry if the colors for front and back (and also for Deep and Pastel versions) don’t correspond. That’s ok! They should not necessarily be the same.
5. And last but VERY important note about the colors. As you know the gauge is very important in this project, especially if you are using the kit. I know that some of you were not able to obtain correct gauge and your bag is becoming larger. There is a danger you will run out of particular shades in the end. But you can handle it by changing colorway on the back, as it is not important at all.
I decided to give you the colorway for the rest of the pattern (after Part 3) so that you can see how many rows are made with each shade. And so that you can predict if you run out of yarn or not, and “play” with colorway for back.
Here is an example of what you can do: As you can see, in Deep version C5 is only used for 2(!!) rows on the front, and never on the back. So if your bag is obviously bigger, please, feel free to use C5 on some rows of the back instead of C1, C2 or C3.
It's a bit more complicated with Pastel version.. If you are not sure about the yardages, please complete the front first (all 5 parts) and then finish the back with yarn left :)
Colour way (shades for back are in brackets):
Deep PastelRow 20 – C2 (C1), C7 (C9)
Row 21 – C4 (C4), C6 (C10)
Row 22 – C5 (C3), C9 (C8)
Row 23 – C2 (C2), C7 (C7)
Row 24 – C4 (C4), C6 (C10)
Row 25 – C1 (C2), C10 (C7)
Row 26 – C4 (C1), C6 (C9)
Row 27 – C5 (C3), C9 (C8)
Row 28 – C3 (C4), C8 (C9)
Row 29 – C2 (C2), C7 (C7)
Row 30 – C3 (C1), C8 (C9)
Row 31 – C1 (C3), C6 (C8)
Row 32 – C3 (C2), C8 (C9)
And maybe another postcard for you not to be bored with too much text? :)
If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
INSTRUCTIONS: PART 3
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
FPtr2tog front post treble 2 together
FPtr3tog front post treble 3 together
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
FRONT PART
After this part your piece (both front and back) should measure 25cm (10”) in widest place.
Row 14. Note: as on previous rows, make “modified” tr4tog’s in this part.
For a neater result, you can also make groups of 3 FPtr in a modified way: 1st FPtr is made in a usual way around the post of the indicated stitch, and next 2 tr’s are made in a space at the bottom of this FPtr. But these modifications are not really necessary!
Change to yarn C3 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in FPtr of row 12 below, sk no sts, hdc in next 2 sts, FPtr around same st of row 11 where 1st FPsc was made, 3Fptr around next st of row 11, FPtr around next st of row 11, sk ch4-sp* 8 times, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in FPtr of row 12 below, sk no sts, hdc in 5 next sts; fasten off. (99)
Row 15. Change to yarn C1 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 7 sts, *FPtr around ch4-sp below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts, FPtr around ch4-sp below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st; fasten off. (99)
Row 16. Change to yarn C3 (C10). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around each of 5 FPtr below, sk 5 sts* 8 times, hdc in 3 next sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in 5 next sts. (108)
Row 17. Change to yarn C4 (C9). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in next 9 sts, *FPtr around FPtr of row 15 below, sk 1 st, hdc in 3 next sts, FPtr around FPtr of row 15 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 7 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 3 sts; fasten off. (108)
Row 18. Change to yarn C3 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 11 sts, *FPtr3tog (around 2nd, 3rd and 4th FPtr of row 16 below), sk no sts, hdc in next 12 sts* 8 times; fasten off. (115)
Row 19. Change to yarn C1 (C8). Start in 1st hdc.
Note: when making FPtr2tog - work every leg around each of two FPtr of row 17 lying to the right and to the left from FPtr3tog of previous row. Feel free to replace FPtr2tog with FPdtr2tog if it’s too tight.
Hdc in next 11 sts, *FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 12 sts* 8 times, fasten off. (115)
*************************************************************
Back Part
Please, try to keep the same gauge as for front. Check measurements after row 19.
Row 14. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 5 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, fasten off. (99)
Row 15. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 97 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (99)
Row 16. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
2hdc in 2nd st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, *hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, fasten off. (108)
Row 17. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 106 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (108)
Row 18. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 10 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 11 sts*, 8 times, hdc in last st, fasten off. (115)
Row 19. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 113 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (115)
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.
Front:
And back:
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
For those of you who follow Peacock Tail Bag CAL – here is the Part 2. This part is a little bit more intricate than previous one. You will make many more front post stitches. And clusters will also be added today. If you have joined the CAL just now, please, first check General Information HERE. And Part 1 is available HERE.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
I will not overload with lots of information today. I suppose that if you completed Part 1 you have also read all the important notes. But for today’s part there is something more you need to know and keep in mind.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
Part 3 can be found HERE.
And seems like this is everything I wanted to draw your attention to. Let’s jump to Part 2 now!
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Indonesian
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
Row 8. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Make 1st (standing) hdc in 1st hdc of hdc increase of rnd 7 that comes after group of 13 sc. Modified tr4tog’s are used on this row and throughout the pattern. Please, check this tutorial about how to attach them around the post.
Make a slip knot (here and throughout), hdc in next 5 sts, *tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 3rd of 5 hdc of rnd 6 lying between 2 FPtr’s, sk no sts, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts, fasten off. (75)
Row 9. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 1st hdc of row 8.
Hdc in each of 75 sts, fasten off. (75)
Row 10. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 5 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (84)
Row 11. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in each of 84 sts, fasten off. (84)
Row 12. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
Note: all increases are made directly above tr4tog’s of row 10.
Hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 1st hdc of hdc increase of row 10 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st* 8 times, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 1st hdc of hdc increase of row 10 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts; fasten off. (91)
Row 13. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Start in 1st hdc.
Note: you will get 8 “U” on this row. After this row your piece should measure 20cm (8”) in widest place.
Hdc in next 3 sts, *hdc in next 5 sts, ch4, FPsc around 3 sts on row 11 (find tr4tog on row 10 below. Make FPsc into the st of row 11 that goes into the st before this tr4tog, in this tr4tog and the one after it), ch4, sk 5 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 8 sts; fasten off. (91)
**********************************************************
Row 8. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Make 1st (standing) hdc in 1st hdc of hdc increase of rnd 7 that comes after group of 13 sc.
Hdc in next 5 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 6 sts; fasten off. (75)
Row 9. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc of row 8.
Hdc in next 73 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (75)
Row 10. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc!
2hdc in 2nd st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st* 8 times, hdc in next 5 sts, fasten off. (84)
Row 11. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 82 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (84)
Row 12. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 9 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 8 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, fasten off. (91)
Row 13. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 89 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (91)
Congratulations!!! Part 2 is finished!!
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshel.
Front:
Back:
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
See you next Wednesday!
p.s. I am away this week with very poor Internet connection. If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
I will not overload with lots of information today. I suppose that if you completed Part 1 you have also read all the important notes. But for today’s part there is something more you need to know and keep in mind.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
Part 3 can be found HERE.
Important Notes:
- !!! I have noticed that some of you decided to make overlay design for both front and back... Please, DON'T do that!!! The pattern is written in mirror way - for front and back to match in the end. If you make two fronts - they will not match each other in shape!!!
- PLEASE, keep your gauge correct on this and next parts. If you are using ready kits you can run out of certain shades if your bag is turning out to be bigger. If it happens, please, take a smaller hook or try to crochet tighter.
- This part (and all the rest) is crocheted in rows on the right side. And all the rows are started with standing hdc. There are several ways of making them, but I would recommend to begin with a slip knot. It’s important because next rows will either begin in 1st or 2nd hdc, and if you have a slip knot in the beginning, then it is very easy to identify very first stitch. Esther from It’s All In A Nutshell has a video tutorial on this (HERE).
- Note, that some rows are started in 1st stitch, and some of them - in 2nd stitch. Please, be attentive and careful about that.
- If you prefer to weave in yarn tails “as-you-go”, please note that the edges will look neat if before weaving you unweave slip knots in the beginning of each row.
- Except of front post stitches (which should be made to the height of working round – as in Part 1) you will be making clusters today. Or to be more precise – treble crochet 4 together. But instead of usual clusters I used “modified” in the pattern. Please, check THIS tutorial to see how they should be attached correctly.
- If you are using kits – the color way for Deep and Pastel versions are not the same on some rows.
And seems like this is everything I wanted to draw your attention to. Let’s jump to Part 2 now!
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
INSTRUCTIONS: PART 2
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Indonesian
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
FRONT PART
Row 8. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Make 1st (standing) hdc in 1st hdc of hdc increase of rnd 7 that comes after group of 13 sc. Modified tr4tog’s are used on this row and throughout the pattern. Please, check this tutorial about how to attach them around the post.
Make a slip knot (here and throughout), hdc in next 5 sts, *tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 3rd of 5 hdc of rnd 6 lying between 2 FPtr’s, sk no sts, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts, fasten off. (75)
Row 9. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 1st hdc of row 8.
Hdc in each of 75 sts, fasten off. (75)
Row 10. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 5 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (84)
Row 11. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in each of 84 sts, fasten off. (84)
Row 12. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
Note: all increases are made directly above tr4tog’s of row 10.
Hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 1st hdc of hdc increase of row 10 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st* 8 times, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 1st hdc of hdc increase of row 10 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts; fasten off. (91)
Row 13. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Start in 1st hdc.
Note: you will get 8 “U” on this row. After this row your piece should measure 20cm (8”) in widest place.
Hdc in next 3 sts, *hdc in next 5 sts, ch4, FPsc around 3 sts on row 11 (find tr4tog on row 10 below. Make FPsc into the st of row 11 that goes into the st before this tr4tog, in this tr4tog and the one after it), ch4, sk 5 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 8 sts; fasten off. (91)
**********************************************************
BACK PART
Row 8. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Make 1st (standing) hdc in 1st hdc of hdc increase of rnd 7 that comes after group of 13 sc.
Hdc in next 5 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 6 sts; fasten off. (75)
Row 9. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc of row 8.
Hdc in next 73 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (75)
Row 10. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc!
2hdc in 2nd st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st* 8 times, hdc in next 5 sts, fasten off. (84)
Row 11. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 82 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (84)
Row 12. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 9 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 8 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, fasten off. (91)
Row 13. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 89 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (91)
Congratulations!!! Part 2 is finished!!
Front:
Back:
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See you next Wednesday!
p.s. I am away this week with very poor Internet connection. If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
This year my crochet dreams are slowly coming true. I’ve dreamed of being published. And wow, two my designs were features in the YARN book-a-zine. Since then I have finished several other patterns which will be published soon (I will certainly keep you updated). For a long time my another dream has been to create something with T-shirt yarn, which I have never tried before. And I have been also dreaming to design a rug. With yarn in just one shade. And with combination of cabling and open lace parts. And ta-dah! Here it is! When my mom saw this rug for the first time, she said: Andromeda! I liked the sound of this name. So this is how my new rug is called.
The pattern was freshly released today and is available HERE on Ravelry.
 |
| Andromeda Galaxy (Source: Wikipedia) |
I used Mini Nooodle* yarn by Scheepjes for this rug. As you can see from the yarn’s name, it’s not a usual T-shirt yarn. At least not the same size, but a bit smaller. It is a cotton blend (50% Polyester, 50% Cotton) which goes together with 10mm hook. This yarn is very nice in touch, really stretchy and due to high percentage of polyester it is sliding on the hook very well. I believe projects made with this yarn will last for a very long time. You can have a look at complete color chart of Mini Noodle at Wool Warehouse HERE*.
Very often I could hear that working with T-shirt yarn is very hard for hands. But this is definitely not the case of Mini Nooodle. I mean of course it takes more efforts to work with it (because of the bigger size), but the yarn itself is not scratchy and it didn’t bring any harm to my hands. No need to say the rug was growing very fast. And I made it (already knowing the pattern) in less than 10 hours.
I believe this rug will perfectly suit in a bedroom (by the bed), bathroom, in a smaller room or in a zoned living room (to mark the space in front of the chair for example). It will greatly suit childrens' room! Due to a very intensive structure, it is very nice to walk on. And it will give a nice massage to small feet.
But please, be sure to use anti-slippery material underneath to prevent your rug from being slippery, as it may be very dangerous. You can ask for a professional advice in your local carpet or craft store.
You can crochet this mandala with lighter yarns – DK, Sport or even Fingering. And it will turn into a nice doily. You can also use it as a decoration for a pillow (I would sew mandala’s onto each and every pillowcase I have!!). I believe round pillow in contrasting shade would look especially beautiful with Andromeda mandala.
The size of my rug is 88cm (35in) across, but depending on the yarn and hook you use, and also on your personal style of crochet and gauge – you may get a larger or smaller finished project. I only used one shade, but wonderful ladies, who helped me with testing, added a few more shades to make their Andromeda’s colorful.
As all my patterns, Andromeda Mandala Rug contains written instructions (with US terms) together with tons of progress pictures to help you find the right placement for every stitch. But if you prefer to only work from written text – there is a print friendly copy available. With no pictures.
The pattern is aimed to Intermediate crocheters who already know how to make front post stitches. But if you are not afraid of challenges and would like to learn something new – this pattern may be right for you.
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DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
Today is the day! I am so happy, excited, nervous and thrilled to share Part 1 of my new Peacock Tail Bag with you. If it’s the first time you hear about it – please check my blog post with all the details and general information HERE. I will add links to every part as they are published.
Before you start crocheting, I would like to share a few things with you. Please, check Important Notes where I gathered all the abbreviations, stitch guide and explanation about all the techniques which will be used during the CAL. As well as CAL in general, these notes are translated into 12 languages by a wonderful team of enthusiastic translators (you will find their names in each part). I send many thanks and hugs to all of them and Massiel Lago and Laurene Leeseberg Bluder in particular!
Important Notes are available as pdf-files for download. PLEASE, please, (please!!!) read them carefully before you start crocheting and make sure you understand everything. If you have any doubts, please feel free to ask your questions in Official CCC Social group on Facebook HERE (many thanks to Susan Cutler Cutrer) where my CAL is officially hosted, or in my Ravelry group HERE (you will find a separate thread for asking questions, commenting and sharing the pictures of your finished projects).
Part 2 can be found HERE.
Important Notes are available here:
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Indonesian
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
GAUGE
Hopefully after reading these notes you will find the answers to all possible questions. But I would like draw your attention to the importance of keeping correct gauge.
- If you are using kits or your own colors of Linen Soft* by Scheepjes yarns the gauge is especially important for you as your yardages are limited and you should be very precise with the gauge not to run out of some shades. In case it happens – don’t worry. You can always change colorway for bag’s back (as it’s not important) and to add the shades you have left. But to prevent it, please, make sure the size of your crocheted pieces is exactly as stated in the pattern.
- I used 2.75mm (C) Clover Soft Touch* hook but you can go one or several sizes up or down. Just, please, find the most comfortable tension.
- It’s also extremely important to have front and back of your bag the same size after each part. There are lots of front post stitches used for the front (which may pull a bit – please, keep an eye on that) while the back is relaxed. So please, check the size of front and back after every part (or ideally – after every round/row).
COLOUR WAY
And the last thing I wanted to tell you – the colorways for Deep and Pastel versions are not the same. So please, be careful and don’t mix them. The colors for a pastel version are given in bracket on each round/row. If you chose your own colors – feel free to experiment with them and choose the best colorway for you.
Part 1 is very short and the most easy. It’s meant to introduce you to the techniques but also gives you the chance to practice front post stitches…
Ok… Seems like this is everything! Are you ready? So… let’s begin!
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
INSTRUCTIONS: PART 1
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Color Key DEEP VERSION:
C1 – emerald (608 – 1 skein), C2 – green (606 – 1 skein), C3 – purple (603 – 1 skein), C4 – dark blue (611 – 2 skeins), C5 – light blue (614 – 1 skein)
Color Key PASTEL VERSION:
C6 – grey (619 – 2 skeins), C7 – light blue (629 – 1 skein), C8 – purple (612 – 1 skein), C9 – lavender (624 – 1 skein), C10 – off white (613 – 1 skein).
Important!! If you are familiar with overlay crochet, you may probably know that stitches of the background are usually made in back loops only. But for this pattern please work all rounds and rows on back AND front – through both loops!!!
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
FRONT PART
Rnd 1. Start with yarn C1 (C6). Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as 1st dc) and 11dc in magic ring; NJ in 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (12)
Rnd 2. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in any st of rnd 1. First dc increase will be ch2+dc in same st where yarn was attached.
*2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (24)
Rnd 3. Change to yarn C3 (С8). Attach yarn in 1st st of any dc increase of rnd 2.
*dc in next st (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (36)
Rnd 4. Change to yarn C1 (С6). Attach yarn in 1st dc of any dc increase of rnd 3.
*dc in next 2 sts (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (48)
Rnd 5. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in 2nd dc after any dc increase of rnd 4.
*dc in next 3 sts (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (60)
Rnd 6. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 2nd dc of any dc increase of rnd 5.
Note: please, feel free to replace FPtr’s with FPdtr’s if they pull too much. Front post stitches should be made to the height of working round, and they should be not too tight and not too loose.
*hdc in next 4 sts (1st hdc of the rnd will be ch2), 2hdc in next st* 3 times, *hdc in next 5 sts, FPtr around 2nd dc of underlying increase of rnd 4, sk no sts on rnd 5* 9 times; NJ in 1st hdc of the rnd after ch2. (72)
Rnd 7. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Attach yarn in 2nd hdc of hdc increase of rnd 6 after last FPtr.
Sc in next 13 sts (1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* 9 times, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts; NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (82)
Your piece should measure 12 cm (4 ¾”) after rnd 7.
**********************************************************
BACK PART
Please, try to keep the same gauge as for front. Check measurements after rnd 7.
Rnd 1. Start with yarn C1 (C6). Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as 1st dc) and 11dc in magic ring; NJ in 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (12)
Rnd 2. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in any st of rnd 1. First dc increase will be ch2+dc in same st where yarn was attached.
*2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (24)
Rnd 3. Change to yarn C3 (С8). Attach yarn in 1st st of any dc increase of rnd 2.
*dc in next st (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (36)
Rnd 4. Change to yarn C1 (С6). Attach yarn in 1st dc of any dc increase of rnd 3.
*dc in next 2 sts (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (48)
Rnd 5. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in 2nd dc after any dc increase of rnd 4.
*dc in next 3 sts (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (60)
Rnd 6. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 2nd dc of any dc increase of rnd 5.
*hdc in next 4 sts (1st hdc of the rnd will be ch2), 2hdc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st hdc of the rnd after ch2. (72)
Rnd 7. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Attach yarn in 2nd hdc of any hdc increase of rnd 6.
Sc in 13 next sts (1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* 9 times, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts; NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (82)
Congratilations! Part 1 is now finifshed! :)
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.
Front:
Back:
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
I can’t believe it’s only one week before my new Peacock Tail Bag CAL begins! And I am so excited about it. Seems like it’s right time to give you all the details about this project. If you haven’t chosen yarn and shades yet – that’s also the right time to do that.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
What is this CAL about?
As you can see from the name and pictures this CAL is about a bag. From the very beginning I wanted it to look like a peacock tail. So I chose certain colors and tried to build exact shape.
The front of the bag is made in overlay crochet technique and is covered with front post stitches and clusters. And the back is very simple – with colorful stripes. This bag has a fabric lining with small pocket and magnetic clasp. Adjustable strap allows to wear it as a cross-body bag or just over one shoulder.
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
Resources:
- Tutorials. Each Wednesday a new Part (detailed tutorial with written instructions and pictures) will be published here, on my blog. Around 4pm (Easten european time).
- Printing/PDF. You can find a green Print-Friendly button at the bottom of every post on my blog. You can use it to print the tutorials (with or without pictures) and also to convert them to pdf’s. If you are not sure how to use this button, please, check a very helpful tutorial HERE.
- Newsletter. If you haven’t done this yet, be sure to subscribe to my Newsletter not to miss a single beat of this CAL. I also offer a free pattern of Macaron Pin Cushion exclusively to my subscribers. If you have some problems with subscribing, please feel free to do it on any page of my blog.
- Ravelry. Please, add this CAL to your Ravelry queue. You can also join my official group on Ravelry where the information about each tutorial will be published and where you can also share your finished projects or ask questions.
- Facebook. Don’t forget to join my Facebook club. And be sure to check Official CCC Social Group which will host this CAL.
- Pinterest. I’ve created a new board on Pinterest HERE where all the tutorials of this CAL will be added after being published on my blog.
- Instagram. Please use hashtag #PeacockTailBagCAL along with the pictures of your projects on Instagram. So that we all can find them and admire :)
- Video. All videos for this CAL will be kindly recordered by Esther Dijkstra from It’s all in a Nutshell. You can view each video in the end of each post!
- Languages. This CAL will be translated into Dutch, German, Spanish, Swedish, Finnish, Danish, French and Hebrew. As planned at the moment, translations will be available for download as pdf files.
Yarn and Kits
I used Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes in 5 shades for my bags (both Deep and Pastel version) – 6 skeins in total for each bag (two skeins of one “main” shade which is also used for the bag’s band). In my opinion, Linen Soft is ideal yarn for this project as it’s very natural in look and touch, the colors are rich and it’s also quite stiff. With just a perfect sturdiness for the bag.
Shades for Pastel version: 1 x 612, 1 x 613, 1 x 624, 1 x 629 and 2 x 619
There are complete kits available for purchase at Wool Warehouse* HERE and HERE (international shipping). Each kit includes yarn pack, lining, bag handle, magnetic clasp, metal D-rings and white medium interfacing. The kits are being sold very fast, and new batch is in stock again (at the time of posting).
!!! UPDATE: Because kits are so popular both types of lining were totally sold out. According to official information from Wool Warehouse, after current batch of kits is sold out - new kits will no longer be available for purchase via this retailer. But good news is that you can now purchase separately bag handles, magnetic clasps and D-rings HERE and create your own kits (with the lining of your own choice).
Linen Soft is DK weight yarn. If you haven’t tried this yarn before – please, check my review HERE. If you would like to create your own colorway, you can use your own shades and purchase separate skeins on Wool Warehouse* HERE, Paradise Fibers* (US) HERE or in your local shop. If you intend to use different yarns - please, choose solid and contrasting colors to make overlay image vivid!
You will also need a 2.75mm or 3mm (C) crochet hook. I used Clover Soft Touch* and am very happy with it. Exact size of your hook will mostly depend on your personal style of crochet and gauge (see Gauge below).
Stitch Abbreviations
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language. There will be detailed instructions about how to make every stitch given in the pattern for each week.
Skill level: Intermediate (or Adventurous Beginner)
Very often I am asked if this CAL (and overlay crochet technique in general) is suitable for beginners. This is a very difficult question and I am not sure if the answer really exists. Last year I wrote about my own opinion and you can read it HERE.
If you have never tried overlay crochet before – please, make sure to check Circles of the Sun CAL (HERE) before you jump into Peacock Tail Bag CAL. Please, make 2-3 squares using written instructions and video’s. This will give you a very clear idea of what my coming CAL will look like. You will get acquainted with the pattern style and special techniques. Like “needle join” for example. If you make several squares and feel confident with front post stitches, skipping stitches, keeping correct tension – then yes. Peacock Tail Bag CAL is right for you.
If you haven’t done this yet – please, check Overlay Crochet section on my blog. I published all the important information about this technique. I would recommend to you to have a look at it before you start the CAL.
Size
The size of your bag will naturally depend on yarn and hook you use. My bag is approx. 39 cm (15 ½”) wide in widest place and 35 cm (13 ¾”) tall.
Gauge
After 6 rounds circle with double crochet stitches measures 10cm (4”) in diameter.
The gauge is important here in two aspects. If you, like me, use Linen Soft yarn you should really keep an eye for gauge because if you crochet too loose, you can run out of certain shades and will not have enough yarn to finish the bag. Also you should be careful while making front post stitches – they are always made to the height of working round/row. They should not pull or be too loose.
Peacock Tail Bag CAL Timeline
(Links to all the tutorials as they become available)
Part 1 17 August 2016
Part 2 24 August 2016
Part 3 31 August 2016
Part 4 7 September 2016
Part 5 14 September 2016
Part 6 21 September 2016
Part 7 (Lining) 28 September 2016
Feels like this is everything you need to know. If I missed something, please, don't hesitate to ask in comments below.
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*This blog post contains affiliate links. Thanks for your support!
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