Showing posts with label April Showers Mandala MAL. Show all posts
Showing posts with label April Showers Mandala MAL. Show all posts
April Showers Mandala crochet make-a-long is over now. Thank you very much for participating. I truly enjoyed seeing all your beautiful mandalas and color combinations. Since this pattern was released I have received lots of messages asking what crochet mandala’s can be used for. Well, they can be used in many-many ways: as wall hangings, table decorations, pillow décor and even stool covers. Laura Jackson (aka @taemombo on IG) turned her April Showers Mandala into a pouf!! She kindly allowed me to publish her instructions together with progress pictures. So here we go! p.s. And it's still not late to make your own mandala. Instructions will stay forever free here on my blog ;)
Stone Washed yarn is available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers (affiliate links are marked with *. I might be compensated with a tiny amount if you make a purchase via these links while you will not pay anything extra):
Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (US and Canada), Knotty House* (Canada)
Row 1. Ch62, 1dc in sixth ch from the hook, ch1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, [ch3, skip 2 chains, sc in next chain, ch3, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain] until 2 chains left, ch1, skip 1 ch, dc in last ch, turn.
Row 2. Ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1-sp), dc in the next dc, [ch1 dc] in every ch3-sp and dc across (all sc will be skipped), turn.
Row 3. Ch4, dc in next dc, [ch3, skip next ch1-sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and ch1-sp, dc in next dc] repeat to last sp, ch1, dc in third ch in the beginning of previous row, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you reach desired length. Repeat Row 2 once more. Fasten off.
Step 1: Measure your April Showers Mandala without petals on the edge. Make an octagon cardboard template in the size of your mandala. You can use these directions for drawing an octagon.
Step 2: Cut out fabric octagon for the pouf’s top using your cardboard template. Allow approx. 2.5cm/1in on each side for the seam.
Step 3: Cut out another fabric octagon for the bottom of your pouf. Make it 5cm/2” wider to allow space for zipper.
Step 4: Cut bottom (wider) octagon in half for zipper. Insert zipper.
Step 5: Block crocheted side rectangle to needed measurements. The width of your rectangle is the height of the pouf. And the length of your rectangle is circumference of your top octagon. Laura blocked hers to 35.5cm/14” and 200cm/79”.
Cut out fabric for the side of your pouf in same size as your blocked crocheted piece with extra 2.5cm/1” on all sides – for seams.
Step 6 (optional): Process edges of all fabric pieces to prevent them from crumbling.
Step 7: Sew crocheted rectangle onto fabric allowing space on all edges for seams. Then fold rectangle in half with crocheted piece facing inside and sew short sides of the fabric rectangle together.
Step 8: Sew April Showers Mandala onto the top fabric octagon.
Step 9: Draw a line around cardboard octagon template onto the back of fabric top octagon (with sewn mandala). You will line up side rectangle with this line.
Step 10: Pin the side rectangle with top octagon together with right sides facing each other. Sew them together and then do the same for the bottom.
TIP: For an easier and even placement, put fabric rectangle around the cardboard template and then place it onto the top fabric octagon. Pin rectangle with sewing pins onto fabric octagon.
Step 11: Turn your ready sewn piece inside out and stuff the pouf with firm stuffing until it looks too full. It will squish down later.
Ta-dahh!! Your April Shower Pouf is now finished!!
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| Photo credit for all pictures in this blog post: Laura Jackson |
You will need:
- Yarn to crochet a side of your pouf. Laura used 5 extra skeins of Stone Washed yarn for the side of your pouf. If you used different yarn or your April Showers Mandala was made with Stone Washed but became larger or smaller than stated in the pattern (after blocking), you might need more or less yarn for the side of the pouf.
Stone Washed yarn is available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers (affiliate links are marked with *. I might be compensated with a tiny amount if you make a purchase via these links while you will not pay anything extra):
Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (US and Canada), Knotty House* (Canada)
- Lining fabric enough to make two octagons (in your mandala size with 5cm/2” allowance for the seam) and one side rectangle with approx. 35.4cm width. The length will be a circumference of your mandala with 5cm/2” allowance for the seam.
- Crochet hook – same size as you used for April Showers Mandala
- Firm stuffing, ruler, scissors, zipper (with approx. the same length and height of your crochet mandala measured from side to side), sewing pins, blocking tools, sewing machine – or you can sew everything by hand!
Side Rectangle instructions:
Row 1. Ch62, 1dc in sixth ch from the hook, ch1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch, [ch3, skip 2 chains, sc in next chain, ch3, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain] until 2 chains left, ch1, skip 1 ch, dc in last ch, turn.
Row 2. Ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1-sp), dc in the next dc, [ch1 dc] in every ch3-sp and dc across (all sc will be skipped), turn.
Row 3. Ch4, dc in next dc, [ch3, skip next ch1-sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and ch1-sp, dc in next dc] repeat to last sp, ch1, dc in third ch in the beginning of previous row, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you reach desired length. Repeat Row 2 once more. Fasten off.
Sewing Instructions
Step 1: Measure your April Showers Mandala without petals on the edge. Make an octagon cardboard template in the size of your mandala. You can use these directions for drawing an octagon.
Step 3: Cut out another fabric octagon for the bottom of your pouf. Make it 5cm/2” wider to allow space for zipper.
Step 5: Block crocheted side rectangle to needed measurements. The width of your rectangle is the height of the pouf. And the length of your rectangle is circumference of your top octagon. Laura blocked hers to 35.5cm/14” and 200cm/79”.
Cut out fabric for the side of your pouf in same size as your blocked crocheted piece with extra 2.5cm/1” on all sides – for seams.
Step 6 (optional): Process edges of all fabric pieces to prevent them from crumbling.
Step 7: Sew crocheted rectangle onto fabric allowing space on all edges for seams. Then fold rectangle in half with crocheted piece facing inside and sew short sides of the fabric rectangle together.
Step 8: Sew April Showers Mandala onto the top fabric octagon.
Step 9: Draw a line around cardboard octagon template onto the back of fabric top octagon (with sewn mandala). You will line up side rectangle with this line.
Step 10: Pin the side rectangle with top octagon together with right sides facing each other. Sew them together and then do the same for the bottom.
TIP: For an easier and even placement, put fabric rectangle around the cardboard template and then place it onto the top fabric octagon. Pin rectangle with sewing pins onto fabric octagon.
Step 11: Turn your ready sewn piece inside out and stuff the pouf with firm stuffing until it looks too full. It will squish down later.
Ta-dahh!! Your April Shower Pouf is now finished!!
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Welcome to Part 2 of April Showers Mandala crochet make-a-long. Today we will be shaping cetral overlay medallion into a beautiful spring flower. I’ve made a silly mistake with my sample mandala. Can you spot it? :)
Translations:
Part 1 can be found HERE
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
On next rounds continue with C1.
Note: for easy counts, mark ch2-sps in the corners (you’ll have 8 corners in total)
Round 18: With C1. Make ch5 and 1dc in same st/ch2-sp as join instead of first (dc, ch2, dc) – for all rounds up to round 24.
[(dc, ch2, dc) in next st, *ch1, skip 1 st, dc in next st] x2, ch3, skip 2 sts, 2sc, ch3, skip 2 sts, 1dc, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc, ch1, skip 1 st] x 8, join with ss in first sp – 6 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 19: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, pc in next dc, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in each of next 2 sc, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, pc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 10 dc, 2 pc and 10 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 20: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, ch3, skip sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc and sp, dc in next pc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch2, 1sc in each of next 2dc, ch2, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next pc, ch3, skip sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 8 dc, 4 sc, 4 ch1-sps, 4 ch3-sps and 2 ch2-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 21: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip dc and sp, pc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, 1dc in each of next 2 sc, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, ch1, pc in next dc, ch1, skip sp and dc] x 8, join with ss in first sp – 12 dc, 2 pc, 12 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 22: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, ch1, dc in next pc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, 1sc in each of next 2 dc, 1sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next pc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 8 dc, 6sc, 4 ch1-sps and 6 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 23: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, ch1, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and sc, 1sc in each of next 2 sc, ch3, skip next sc and sp, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, skip next sp and dc] x8, join with ss in first sp – 12 dc, 2 sc, 2 ch3-sps and 10 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 24: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, dc in next dc, *dc in next sp, dc in next dc* until ch3-sp, 2dc in next ch3-sp, dc2tog over next 2 sc, 2dc in next ch3-sp, dc in next dc, *dc in next sp, dc in next dc* until next ch2-sp in the corner] x8 making last dc in joining ss of prev round, join with ss in first sp (change to C4, cut C1) – 28 dc and 1dc2tog on each side, ch2-sps in each of 8 corners
Next week we will add another lace part and edging border. And your April Showers Mandala will be finished!
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Translations:
Nederlands - vertaald door Carmen Jorissen (New Leaf Designs)
INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
On next rounds continue with C1.
Note: for easy counts, mark ch2-sps in the corners (you’ll have 8 corners in total)
Round 18: With C1. Make ch5 and 1dc in same st/ch2-sp as join instead of first (dc, ch2, dc) – for all rounds up to round 24.
[(dc, ch2, dc) in next st, *ch1, skip 1 st, dc in next st] x2, ch3, skip 2 sts, 2sc, ch3, skip 2 sts, 1dc, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc, ch1, skip 1 st] x 8, join with ss in first sp – 6 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 19: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, pc in next dc, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in each of next 2 sc, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, pc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 10 dc, 2 pc and 10 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 20: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, ch3, skip sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc and sp, dc in next pc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch2, 1sc in each of next 2dc, ch2, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next pc, ch3, skip sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 8 dc, 4 sc, 4 ch1-sps, 4 ch3-sps and 2 ch2-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 21: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip dc and sp, pc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, 1dc in each of next 2 sc, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, ch1, pc in next dc, ch1, skip sp and dc] x 8, join with ss in first sp – 12 dc, 2 pc, 12 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 22: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, ch1, dc in next pc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, 1sc in each of next 2 dc, 1sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next pc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 8 dc, 6sc, 4 ch1-sps and 6 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 23: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, ch1, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and sc, 1sc in each of next 2 sc, ch3, skip next sc and sp, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, skip next sp and dc] x8, join with ss in first sp – 12 dc, 2 sc, 2 ch3-sps and 10 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 24: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, dc in next dc, *dc in next sp, dc in next dc* until ch3-sp, 2dc in next ch3-sp, dc2tog over next 2 sc, 2dc in next ch3-sp, dc in next dc, *dc in next sp, dc in next dc* until next ch2-sp in the corner] x8 making last dc in joining ss of prev round, join with ss in first sp (change to C4, cut C1) – 28 dc and 1dc2tog on each side, ch2-sps in each of 8 corners
Next week we will add another lace part and edging border. And your April Showers Mandala will be finished!
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Hello and welcome in April Showers Mandala crochet make-a-long. Today we will be making central medallion in overlay crochet. Hope you will enjoy!
Translations:
Note: depending on your gauge and crochet style you might need more or less yarn!
4mm (G) crochet hook
Yarn needle to weave in tails, stitch markers or waste yarn, blocking tools
Stone Washed yarn is available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers (affiliate links are marked with *. I might be compensated with a tiny amount if you make a purchase via these links while you will not pay anything extra):
Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (US and Canada), Knotty House* (Canada)
BL back loop
ch chain stitch
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
lp(s) loop(s)
RS right side
sc single crochet
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
yo yarn over the hook
prev previous
WS wrong side
dc4tog (double crochet 4 together): *yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.
FPdc (front post double crochet): yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* twice.
FPtr (front post treble crochet): yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times.
FPdtr (front post double treble): yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble crochet 2 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
FPtr3tog (front post treble crochet 3 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
tr4tog (treble crochet 4 together): *yo twice, insert the hook into the hole at the bottom of stitch just made, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice*4 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.
Picot – ch3, ss in first ch.
Parentheses ( ) indicate a group of sts to be worked into the same st/sp. Parentheses also indicate additional notes.
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Color key: C1 – 814 Crystal Quartz (45g – 1 skein), C2 – 801 Moon Stone (15g – 1 skein), C3 – 805 Blue Apatite (30g – 1 skein), C4 – 813 Amazonite (75g – 2 skeins),
C5 – 802 Smokey Quartz (35g – 1 skein)
Round 1: With C1. Make magic ring, ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), 16dc into ring, tighten ring, join with ss in first dc (change to C2) – 16 dc
Round 2: With C2. Work sc in BL. [Ch2, sc in same st, 2sc] x8, join with ss in first ch2-sp (change to C1 by grabbing it up behind work, cut C2) – 24 sc, 8 ch2-sps
Round 3: With C1. First dc is made in same sp as join.
Ch2 (not a st), [1dc in next sp, 3dc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C3, cut C1) – 32 dc
Round 4: Note: for a neater result make first FPtr around indicated st and then make 2 tr into the loop formed at the base of the first leg.
With C3. [Ch2, sc in same st, 3FPtr around central sc of Round 2 between two sps, skip 3 sts on Round 3 behind 3 FPtr just made, sc in next st] x8 making last sc in same sc as first sc, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 5 sts on each of 8 sides, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 5: With C4. Ch2 (not a st), [2dc in ch2-sp, 5dc] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C3) – 56 dc
Round 6: First sc is made in next st after join.
With C3. [Ch2, don’t skip sts, 2sc (BL), FPtr around first of 3 FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st behind FPtr (here and throughout), 1sc (BL), FPtr around third FPtr of same 3 FPtr below, skip 1 st, 2sc (BL)] x8 making last sc in same st as join of prev round, join with ss in first sp (change to C2) – 56 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 7: Note: for a neater result make FPtr in same way as on Round 4.
With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, 2sc (BL), 3FPtr around central FPtr from 3 rounds below, skip 3 sts, 2sc (BL), 1sc in next sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 72 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 8: With C4. [Ch2, skip sp, 9sc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C3) – 72 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 9: With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, ch3, FPtr around FPtr of same color below, skip 3 sts, 3sc (BL), FPtr around FPtr of same color below, ch3, skip 3 sts, sc in next ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 7 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 10: With C4. [Ch3, skip sp, sc (BL) in next st, 1dc in each of 2 sts of same color from 2 rounds below – in front of chains, skip sp behind dc just made, 5sc (BL), 1dc in each of 2 sts of same color from 2 rounds below – in front of chains, skip sp, sc (BL) in last sc before ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C2) – 11 sts on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 11: With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same ch3-sp, ch6, FPtr around first of 3 FPtr of same color below, skip 5 sts, 1sc (BL), FPtr around last FPtr of same group of 3 FPtr below, ch6, skip 5 sts, 1sc in next ch3-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C5, cut C2) – 5 sts and 2 ch6-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 12: With C5. Ch1 (not a st), [5tr in ch2-sp in the corner from 3 rounds below – in front of work, ch6, skip sc and ch6-sp, 1sc (BL) in next FPtr, FPdtr around central FPtr from 5 rounds below, sc in next FPtr, ch6, skip next ch6-sp and sc] x8, join with ss in first tr, ss in next 2 tr (change to C4 in last ss) – 3 sts and 2 ch6-sps on each side, 5 tr in each corner
Round 13: With C4. All dc are made in front of work. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, 1sc in same tr, ch3, skip 2 tr, 1dc in each of 3 sts of same color below, skip sp, 3sc (BL), 1dc in each of next 3 sts of same color below, ch3, skip sp and 2 tr, 1sc in central tr of group of 5 tr] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C3, cut C4) – 11 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 14: First sc is made in same sp as join.
With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next sp (mark as corner), ch3, skip next sc and 2 ch, 1sc in third ch, 3sc (BL), FPdtr around FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st, 1sc (BL), FPdtr around next FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st, 3sc, 1sc in next ch, ch3, skip next 2 ch and sc] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C5) – 11 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner
Round 15: First sc is made in same st as join.
With C5. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next sc (mark as corner), FPtr2tog around 4th and 5th tr of same color below, ch7, 2FPtr around next FPtr of same color below, ch7, FPtr2tog around 1st and 2nd tr of next group of 5 tr of same color] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C3) – 2 FPtr, 2 FPtr2tog and 2 ch7-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner
Round 16: First sc is made in same st as join.
With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [2sc (BL), 1dc in each of next 5 sts of same color from 2 rounds below making last dc in FPtr, sc (BL) in each of next 2 FPtr of prev round, 1dc in each of 5 sts of same color from 2 rounds below beginning in FPtr, 1sc (BL) in next FPtr2tog of prev round] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C5, cut C3) – 120 sts
Round 17: With C5. First skipped st will be same st as join.
Ch1 (not a st), [FPdc3tog (around FPtr2tog, sc and next FPtr2tog of same color below), skip 1 st, 14sc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first FPdc3tog (change to C1, cut all other yarns) – 120 sts
Translations:
Nederlands - vertaald door Carmen Jorissen (New Leaf Designs)
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Materials:
Scheepjes Stone Washed in 5 colors (78% Cotton, 22% Acrylic, 50g/130m/142yrds)Note: depending on your gauge and crochet style you might need more or less yarn!
4mm (G) crochet hook
Yarn needle to weave in tails, stitch markers or waste yarn, blocking tools
Stone Washed yarn is available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers (affiliate links are marked with *. I might be compensated with a tiny amount if you make a purchase via these links while you will not pay anything extra):
Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (US and Canada), Knotty House* (Canada)
Gauge:
After 5 rounds circle measures 10cm/4” across.Size:
The size of the finished mandala will depend on yarn and hook you use. My mandala is approx. 70cm/27.5” large measured from point to point.Abbreviations (US crochet terms)
BL back loop
ch chain stitch
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
lp(s) loop(s)
RS right side
sc single crochet
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
yo yarn over the hook
prev previous
WS wrong side
Stitch Guide
dc3tog (double crochet 3 together): *yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook.dc4tog (double crochet 4 together): *yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.
FPdc (front post double crochet): yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* twice.
FPtr (front post treble crochet): yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times.
FPdtr (front post double treble): yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble crochet 2 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
FPtr3tog (front post treble crochet 3 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
tr4tog (treble crochet 4 together): *yo twice, insert the hook into the hole at the bottom of stitch just made, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice*4 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.
Special Stitches:
pc (popcorn): *yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* 5 times in same st, drop lp from hook, insert hook from front to back through top of first dc made, place dropped lp on hook and pull through st.Picot – ch3, ss in first ch.
Punctuation:
Square Brackets [ ] and asterisks ** indicate repeats. You will need to repeat the instructions between parentheses the amount of times specified.Parentheses ( ) indicate a group of sts to be worked into the same st/sp. Parentheses also indicate additional notes.
Pattern Notes:
- April Showers Mandala is worked in rounds on RS unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
- Rounds are joined with ss in first ch-sp/st (unless otherwise stated in the pattern)
- Color is changed in joining ss. Don’t cut the yarn at the end of the round, but instead carry it up to next rounds on WS. Don’t pull too much. You’ll have small floats of yarn on the WS. If you want to get rid of floats, please feel free to cut yarn after every round.
INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Color key: C1 – 814 Crystal Quartz (45g – 1 skein), C2 – 801 Moon Stone (15g – 1 skein), C3 – 805 Blue Apatite (30g – 1 skein), C4 – 813 Amazonite (75g – 2 skeins),
C5 – 802 Smokey Quartz (35g – 1 skein)
Round 1: With C1. Make magic ring, ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), 16dc into ring, tighten ring, join with ss in first dc (change to C2) – 16 dc
Round 2: With C2. Work sc in BL. [Ch2, sc in same st, 2sc] x8, join with ss in first ch2-sp (change to C1 by grabbing it up behind work, cut C2) – 24 sc, 8 ch2-sps
Round 3: With C1. First dc is made in same sp as join.
Ch2 (not a st), [1dc in next sp, 3dc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C3, cut C1) – 32 dc
Round 4: Note: for a neater result make first FPtr around indicated st and then make 2 tr into the loop formed at the base of the first leg.
With C3. [Ch2, sc in same st, 3FPtr around central sc of Round 2 between two sps, skip 3 sts on Round 3 behind 3 FPtr just made, sc in next st] x8 making last sc in same sc as first sc, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 5 sts on each of 8 sides, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 5: With C4. Ch2 (not a st), [2dc in ch2-sp, 5dc] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C3) – 56 dc
Round 6: First sc is made in next st after join.
With C3. [Ch2, don’t skip sts, 2sc (BL), FPtr around first of 3 FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st behind FPtr (here and throughout), 1sc (BL), FPtr around third FPtr of same 3 FPtr below, skip 1 st, 2sc (BL)] x8 making last sc in same st as join of prev round, join with ss in first sp (change to C2) – 56 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 7: Note: for a neater result make FPtr in same way as on Round 4.
With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, 2sc (BL), 3FPtr around central FPtr from 3 rounds below, skip 3 sts, 2sc (BL), 1sc in next sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 72 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 8: With C4. [Ch2, skip sp, 9sc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C3) – 72 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 9: With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, ch3, FPtr around FPtr of same color below, skip 3 sts, 3sc (BL), FPtr around FPtr of same color below, ch3, skip 3 sts, sc in next ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 7 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 10: With C4. [Ch3, skip sp, sc (BL) in next st, 1dc in each of 2 sts of same color from 2 rounds below – in front of chains, skip sp behind dc just made, 5sc (BL), 1dc in each of 2 sts of same color from 2 rounds below – in front of chains, skip sp, sc (BL) in last sc before ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C2) – 11 sts on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 11: With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same ch3-sp, ch6, FPtr around first of 3 FPtr of same color below, skip 5 sts, 1sc (BL), FPtr around last FPtr of same group of 3 FPtr below, ch6, skip 5 sts, 1sc in next ch3-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C5, cut C2) – 5 sts and 2 ch6-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 12: With C5. Ch1 (not a st), [5tr in ch2-sp in the corner from 3 rounds below – in front of work, ch6, skip sc and ch6-sp, 1sc (BL) in next FPtr, FPdtr around central FPtr from 5 rounds below, sc in next FPtr, ch6, skip next ch6-sp and sc] x8, join with ss in first tr, ss in next 2 tr (change to C4 in last ss) – 3 sts and 2 ch6-sps on each side, 5 tr in each corner
Round 13: With C4. All dc are made in front of work. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, 1sc in same tr, ch3, skip 2 tr, 1dc in each of 3 sts of same color below, skip sp, 3sc (BL), 1dc in each of next 3 sts of same color below, ch3, skip sp and 2 tr, 1sc in central tr of group of 5 tr] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C3, cut C4) – 11 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 14: First sc is made in same sp as join.
With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next sp (mark as corner), ch3, skip next sc and 2 ch, 1sc in third ch, 3sc (BL), FPdtr around FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st, 1sc (BL), FPdtr around next FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st, 3sc, 1sc in next ch, ch3, skip next 2 ch and sc] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C5) – 11 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner
Round 15: First sc is made in same st as join.
With C5. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next sc (mark as corner), FPtr2tog around 4th and 5th tr of same color below, ch7, 2FPtr around next FPtr of same color below, ch7, FPtr2tog around 1st and 2nd tr of next group of 5 tr of same color] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C3) – 2 FPtr, 2 FPtr2tog and 2 ch7-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner
Round 16: First sc is made in same st as join.
With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [2sc (BL), 1dc in each of next 5 sts of same color from 2 rounds below making last dc in FPtr, sc (BL) in each of next 2 FPtr of prev round, 1dc in each of 5 sts of same color from 2 rounds below beginning in FPtr, 1sc (BL) in next FPtr2tog of prev round] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C5, cut C3) – 120 sts
Round 17: With C5. First skipped st will be same st as join.
Ch1 (not a st), [FPdc3tog (around FPtr2tog, sc and next FPtr2tog of same color below), skip 1 st, 14sc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first FPdc3tog (change to C1, cut all other yarns) – 120 sts
That's all for today! See you next week :)
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
You asked and I heard you! April Showers Mandala make-a-long will begin next week here, on my blog. We will be making a crochet mandala with a mix of overlay crochet and cascade of lacy borders. Please, read details below.
April Showers Mandala was created for Simy’s Studio challenge. In April I designed a crocheted piece inspired by a digital illustration. After finished design was revealed I received huuuuuge number of messages asking for a pattern. And finally, here it is!
Make-a-long will consist of 3 parts (links will be added after each part is released):
Part 1 – May 10th, 2019 (central overlay medallion)
Part 2 – May 17th, 2019 (first lacy frame)
Part 3 – May 24th, 2019 (second lacy frame and border)
Each part will be published for free on my blog in English (US terms) and Dutch. And there is also a possibility to purchase a complete pdf file with all parts and photo-tutorial for a small fee on Ravelry and Esty. A nice option for those who doesn’t want to wait for 3 weeks to complete the mandala.
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
For April Showers Mandala you will need Sport/DK yarn in 5 colors, crochet hook (4mm), stitch markers and yarn needle to weave in ends, which will be not so many.
I chose Stones Washed yarn by Scheepjes to recreate the colors of Simy’s original digital illustration.
My shades are: 801 Moon Stone (15g - 1 skein), 814 Crystal Quartz (45g – 1 skein), 805 Blue Apatite (30g – 1 skein), 813 Amazonite (75g – 2 skeins) and 802 Smokey Quartz (35g – 1 skein). All amounts are approximate, and if you gauge differs a lot, you might need more yarn.
Stone Washed yarn is available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers (affiliate links are marked with *. I might be compensated with a tiny amount if you make a purchase via these links while you will not pay anything extra):
Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (US and Canada), Knotty House* (Canada)
Finished mandala is approx. 70cm/27.5” large measured from point to point.
It can be used as a wall hanging, pillow decoration or table center piece. Laura Jackson, who was helping me with test, has a plan to turn this mandala into a pouf. And I am very curious to see how it will turn out!
That’s all for now and see you next week!
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
April Showers Mandala was created for Simy’s Studio challenge. In April I designed a crocheted piece inspired by a digital illustration. After finished design was revealed I received huuuuuge number of messages asking for a pattern. And finally, here it is!
Make-a-long will consist of 3 parts (links will be added after each part is released):
Part 1 – May 10th, 2019 (central overlay medallion)
Part 2 – May 17th, 2019 (first lacy frame)
Part 3 – May 24th, 2019 (second lacy frame and border)
Each part will be published for free on my blog in English (US terms) and Dutch. And there is also a possibility to purchase a complete pdf file with all parts and photo-tutorial for a small fee on Ravelry and Esty. A nice option for those who doesn’t want to wait for 3 weeks to complete the mandala.
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
For April Showers Mandala you will need Sport/DK yarn in 5 colors, crochet hook (4mm), stitch markers and yarn needle to weave in ends, which will be not so many.
I chose Stones Washed yarn by Scheepjes to recreate the colors of Simy’s original digital illustration.
My shades are: 801 Moon Stone (15g - 1 skein), 814 Crystal Quartz (45g – 1 skein), 805 Blue Apatite (30g – 1 skein), 813 Amazonite (75g – 2 skeins) and 802 Smokey Quartz (35g – 1 skein). All amounts are approximate, and if you gauge differs a lot, you might need more yarn.
Stone Washed yarn is available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers (affiliate links are marked with *. I might be compensated with a tiny amount if you make a purchase via these links while you will not pay anything extra):
Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (US and Canada), Knotty House* (Canada)
Finished mandala is approx. 70cm/27.5” large measured from point to point.
It can be used as a wall hanging, pillow decoration or table center piece. Laura Jackson, who was helping me with test, has a plan to turn this mandala into a pouf. And I am very curious to see how it will turn out!
That’s all for now and see you next week!
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
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