Showing posts with label step by step. Show all posts
Showing posts with label step by step. Show all posts
Brioche Crochet is a technique that doesn’t stop to amaze me. With only two
colors and routine stitches used, it creates a nice textured fabric. And this
fabric is reversible: imitating beloved knitting brioche on the right size,
and with a knit look on the wrong side.
After the release of Brioche Waves Blanket, Esja Sweater and Brioche Heart patterns I’ve got a few requests about how to create a triangle shape with crochet brioche. So, here is a tutorial. You can use is for making shawls, for example.
Please, note that crochet brioche consists of two layers. And fabric is getting quite thick. So I suggest fine and soft yarns for wearable accessories.
Triangle shape in Brioche Crochet is worked in rows, back and forth, with one color used for each row. The colors are changed every other row in last yarn over of the final stitch – when there are still two loops left on the hook (see photo-tutorial below).
Please, note that work is turned after every two rows (unless otherwise stated in the pattern). So you’ll work two rows on the right side, two rows on the wrong side, and then again two rows on the right side. And so on.
Using this tutorial you can create a brioche crochet triangle in any desired size.
ch – chain
yo – yarn over
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
[…] repeat instruction inside […] as many times as indicated in the pattern
Yarns used in this tutorial:
Cover Sample - Colour Crafter* (1099 Wolvega) and Colour Crafter Velvet* (845 Astaire) by Scheepjes
Photo-tutorial - Stone Washed* by Scheepjes
INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be translated without permission or copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in whole. No video tutorials are allowed! Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
Row 1 - RS: With Yarn A make magic ring, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 3sc into magic ring, tighten ring, turn – 3 sc
TIP: to add extra drape to fabric please feel free to replace all ch1 with ch2-sps.
Row 2 – WS: Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in first st, ch1, skip next st, 2dc in last st (change to Yarn B in final st), turn – 4 dc, 1 ch1-sp
Row 3 – RS: Ch2 (doesn’t count as a st – here and throughout), 2sc in first st, ch1, skip next st, dc in skipped st from Row 1 below (in front of work), ch1, skip sp and next st, 2sc in third ch in the beginning of previous row, drop loop off the hook and don’t turn – 4 sc, 1 dc, 2 ch1-sps
Row 4 – RS: Insert hook in first st of the same row, grab Yarn A behind work and pull it through first st. Don't make the loop too tight to prevent pulling of the edge.
Ch2, 2sc in same st, ch1, skip next st, dc in skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (in front of work), ch1, skip sp and next st, dc in last skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (in front of work), ch1, skip sp and next st, 2sc in last st (change to Yarn B in final st by grabbing the loop in the end of the row and pulling it through two loops on the hook), turn – 4 sc, 2 dc, 3 ch1-sps
Row 5 – WS: All dc and BPdc are made in/around sts of same color from
2 rows below – behind work!
Ch2, 2sc in first st, ch1, skip 1 st, dc in skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (behind work), ch1, skip sp and next st, BPdc around next st of same color from 2 rows below, ch1, skip sp and next st, dc in next skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (behind work), ch1, skip sp and next st, 2sc in last st, drop loop off the hook and don’t turn – 4 sc, 2 dc, 1 BPdc, 4 ch1-sps
Row 6 – WS: Insert hook from back to front into first st of the same
row, grab Yarn A in front of work and pull it through first st. As on
previous row, all dc and BPdc are made in/around sts of same color from 2
rows below – behind work!
Ch2, 2sc in same st, ch1, skip 1 st, dc in skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (behind work), [ch1, skip sp and next st, BPdc around next st of same color below] repeat for all long sts of same color from 2 rows below, ch1, skip sp and next st, dc in last skipped st from 2 rows below (behind work), ch1, skip sp and next st, 2sc in last st (keep yarn A on the WS, change to Yarn B in final st by grabbing the loop in the end of the row and pulling it through two loops on the hook), turn – 4 sc, 2 dc, 2 BPdc, 5 ch1-sps
Row 7 – RS: Work all dc and FPdc in/around sts of same color from 2
rows below – in front of work!
Ch2, 2sc in same st, ch1, skip 1 st, dc in skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (in front of work), [ch1, skip sp and next st, FPdc around next st from 2 rows below] repeat for all long sts of same color from 2 rows below, ch1, skip sp and next st, dc in last skipped st from 2 rows below (in front of work), ch1, skip next st, 2sc in last st, drop loop off the hook, don’t turn – 4 sc, 2 dc, 3 FPdc, 6 ch1-sps
Row 8 – RS: Insert hook in first st of the same row, grab Yarn A
behind work and pull it through first st.
As Row 7. Change to Yarn B in final st by grabbing the loop in the end of the row and pulling it through two loops on the hook, turn – 4 sc, 2 dc, 4 FPdc, 7 ch1-sps
Row 9 - WS: All dc and BPdc are made in/around sts of same color from 2 rows below – behind work!
Ch2, 2sc in same st, ch1, skip 1 st, dc in skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (behind work), [ch1, skip sp and next st, BPdc around next st of same color below] repeat for all long sts of same color from 2 rows below, ch1, skip sp and next st, dc in last skipped st from 2 rows below (behind work), ch1, skip sp and next st, 2sc in last st, drop loop off the hook, don’t turn – 4 sc, 2 dc, 5 BPdc, 8 ch1-sps
Repeat Rows 6-9 till you reach designed length of your fabric.
Last Row
To finish, make last row on RS.
Ch2, 2sc in first st, sc in next st, dc in skipped st from 2 rows below (in front of work), skip sp, sc in next st, [FPdc around next st of same color from 2 rows below, skip sp, sc in next st] repeat for all long sts of same color from 2 rows below, dc in next last skipped st from 2 rows below (in front of work), skip sp, sc in next st, 2sc in last st, fasten off.
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After the release of Brioche Waves Blanket, Esja Sweater and Brioche Heart patterns I’ve got a few requests about how to create a triangle shape with crochet brioche. So, here is a tutorial. You can use is for making shawls, for example.
Please, note that crochet brioche consists of two layers. And fabric is getting quite thick. So I suggest fine and soft yarns for wearable accessories.
Pattern Notes
Triangle shape in Brioche Crochet is worked in rows, back and forth, with one color used for each row. The colors are changed every other row in last yarn over of the final stitch – when there are still two loops left on the hook (see photo-tutorial below).
Please, note that work is turned after every two rows (unless otherwise stated in the pattern). So you’ll work two rows on the right side, two rows on the wrong side, and then again two rows on the right side. And so on.
Using this tutorial you can create a brioche crochet triangle in any desired size.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide (US crochet terms)
ch – chain
yo – yarn over
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
Pattern repeats
[…] repeat instruction inside […] as many times as indicated in the pattern
Yarns used in this tutorial:
Cover Sample - Colour Crafter* (1099 Wolvega) and Colour Crafter Velvet* (845 Astaire) by Scheepjes
Photo-tutorial - Stone Washed* by Scheepjes
INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be translated without permission or copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in whole. No video tutorials are allowed! Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
Row 1 - RS: With Yarn A make magic ring, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 3sc into magic ring, tighten ring, turn – 3 sc
TIP: to add extra drape to fabric please feel free to replace all ch1 with ch2-sps.
Row 2 – WS: Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in first st, ch1, skip next st, 2dc in last st (change to Yarn B in final st), turn – 4 dc, 1 ch1-sp
Row 3 – RS: Ch2 (doesn’t count as a st – here and throughout), 2sc in first st, ch1, skip next st, dc in skipped st from Row 1 below (in front of work), ch1, skip sp and next st, 2sc in third ch in the beginning of previous row, drop loop off the hook and don’t turn – 4 sc, 1 dc, 2 ch1-sps
Row 4 – RS: Insert hook in first st of the same row, grab Yarn A behind work and pull it through first st. Don't make the loop too tight to prevent pulling of the edge.
Ch2, 2sc in same st, ch1, skip next st, dc in skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (in front of work), ch1, skip sp and next st, dc in last skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (in front of work), ch1, skip sp and next st, 2sc in last st (change to Yarn B in final st by grabbing the loop in the end of the row and pulling it through two loops on the hook), turn – 4 sc, 2 dc, 3 ch1-sps
Ch2, 2sc in first st, ch1, skip 1 st, dc in skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (behind work), ch1, skip sp and next st, BPdc around next st of same color from 2 rows below, ch1, skip sp and next st, dc in next skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (behind work), ch1, skip sp and next st, 2sc in last st, drop loop off the hook and don’t turn – 4 sc, 2 dc, 1 BPdc, 4 ch1-sps
Ch2, 2sc in same st, ch1, skip 1 st, dc in skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (behind work), [ch1, skip sp and next st, BPdc around next st of same color below] repeat for all long sts of same color from 2 rows below, ch1, skip sp and next st, dc in last skipped st from 2 rows below (behind work), ch1, skip sp and next st, 2sc in last st (keep yarn A on the WS, change to Yarn B in final st by grabbing the loop in the end of the row and pulling it through two loops on the hook), turn – 4 sc, 2 dc, 2 BPdc, 5 ch1-sps
Ch2, 2sc in same st, ch1, skip 1 st, dc in skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (in front of work), [ch1, skip sp and next st, FPdc around next st from 2 rows below] repeat for all long sts of same color from 2 rows below, ch1, skip sp and next st, dc in last skipped st from 2 rows below (in front of work), ch1, skip next st, 2sc in last st, drop loop off the hook, don’t turn – 4 sc, 2 dc, 3 FPdc, 6 ch1-sps
As Row 7. Change to Yarn B in final st by grabbing the loop in the end of the row and pulling it through two loops on the hook, turn – 4 sc, 2 dc, 4 FPdc, 7 ch1-sps
Row 9 - WS: All dc and BPdc are made in/around sts of same color from 2 rows below – behind work!
Ch2, 2sc in same st, ch1, skip 1 st, dc in skipped st of same color from 2 rows below (behind work), [ch1, skip sp and next st, BPdc around next st of same color below] repeat for all long sts of same color from 2 rows below, ch1, skip sp and next st, dc in last skipped st from 2 rows below (behind work), ch1, skip sp and next st, 2sc in last st, drop loop off the hook, don’t turn – 4 sc, 2 dc, 5 BPdc, 8 ch1-sps
Repeat Rows 6-9 till you reach designed length of your fabric.
Last Row
To finish, make last row on RS.
Ch2, 2sc in first st, sc in next st, dc in skipped st from 2 rows below (in front of work), skip sp, sc in next st, [FPdc around next st of same color from 2 rows below, skip sp, sc in next st] repeat for all long sts of same color from 2 rows below, dc in next last skipped st from 2 rows below (in front of work), skip sp, sc in next st, 2sc in last st, fasten off.
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Last week I showed you a photo-tutorial on how to do tapestry crochet. You can check it HERE. I hope it was helpful and if you have never tried tapestry crochet technique, it was easy for you to master it. And today I would like to share my newest pillow pattern.My pillow cover consists of two squares joined together, with zip for easier taking care. Front part is made in tapestry crochet with circles pattern. And back has simple stripes made with single crochet stitches. I wanted this pillow to be reversible. But you can make both sides with tapestry circles if you wish.
The size of finished pillow cover will depend on yarn and hook you choose, and also on your personal gauge. My pillow is approx. 44cm x 44cm (17 ½” x 17 ½”).
Gauge for front and back differs a bit, because of additional yarn going through front.
Front: 20 sts x 21 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”)
Back: 19 sts x 21 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”)
Intermediate (though I believe advanced beginners can absolutely try tapestry crochet as well).
rnd(s) - round(s)
st(s) - stitch(es)
ch - chain
sl st (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
NJ – needle join
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
Add this pattern to Ravelry Queue
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2016. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
Front part of the pillow is made in tapestry crochet. Each repeat consists of 16 sts + 5sts to finish (for symmetry). I made 5 repeats, but you can make more (to make the pillow larger).
Each stripe with dots (18 rows) is made with yarn in 2 colors.
Row 1. Ch86 with 802 (C1). Starting in 2nd ch from hook sc in every ch to the end. (85sc) Turn.
Rows 2-3. Ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), 85sc. Turn.
Row 4. You will start working with shades 802 (C1) and 820 (C2) at the same time.
Ch1, *8sc with C1 (change yarn on 8th sc), 5sc with C2 (change yarn on 5th sc), 3sc with C1* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 5. Сh1, *7sc with C1, 5sc with C2, 2sc with C1* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 6. Сh1, *6sc with C1, 9sc with C2, 1sc with C1* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 7-12. Сh1, *5sc with C1, 11sc with C2* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 13. As row 6.
Row 14. As row 5.
Row 15. As row 4. Cut C2 leaving 15cm (6”) tail.
Row 16-18. With C1 as row 2. Change to 816. Cut C1 leaving 15 cm (6”) tail.
Next stripe (rows 19-36) will be worked with shades 816 (C3) and 815 (C4).
Rows 19-21. With C3. As row 2.
Row 22. Ch1, *5sc with C4, 11sc with C3* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Row 23. Ch1, *6sc with C4, 9sc with C3, 1sc with C4* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Row 24. Ch1, *7sc with C4, 7sc with C3, 2sc with C4* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Rows 25-30. Ch1, *8sc with C4, 5sc with C3, 3sc with C4* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Row 31. As row 24.
Row 32. As row 23.
Row 33. As row 22. Cut C4 leaving 15cm (6”) tail.
Rows 34-36. With C3 as row2. Change to 806. Cut C1 leaving 15 cm (6”) tail.
Rows 37-54. Repeat rows 1-18 working with shades 806 (C1) and 801 (C2).
Rows 55-72. Repeat rows 19-36 working with shades 808 (C3) and 813 (C4).
Rows 73-90. Repeat rows 1-19 working with shades 805 (C1) and 817 (C2).
Note: after row 90 you should get a square shape.
After row 90 change to shade 808 and crochet around the whole square making 85sc on each side and 3sc in each corner (for even and neat work - make 17sc into every stripe on the sides). Finish with sl st in 1st sc of this rnd or with NJ in 2nd sc. Cut yarn and weave all tails in.
You have two options for the back. To make it easier, you can begin with the same stitch count as for front (ch86 and 85sc on each row) and make necessary amount of stripes to match the front in height. Since you will have the same stitch count on the bottom and top, it will be easy to join both parts together.
I wanted the back of my pillow to be composed of stripes which are later squared up with simple striped border. To imitate quilt. So I began with a smaller stitch count. Here is what I did:
Row 1. Ch75 with 802. Starting in 2nd ch from hook sc in every ch to the end. (75sc) Turn
Row 2-90. Ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), 75sc. Turn.
Color way:
Rows 1-9. Shade 802
Rows 10-18. Shade 820
Rows 19-27. Shade 815
Rows 28-36. Shade 816
Rows 37-45. Shade 806
Rows 46-54. Shade 808
Rows 55-63. Shade 817
Rows 64-72. Shade 813
Rows 73-81. Shade 801
Rows 82-90. Shade 805
After row 90 the back is approx. 40cm x 39 cm (16” x 15 ½”). To bring stitch count of the back to the same amount as front, change yarn to 808 after row 90 and start working around the whole square.
Rnd 1. 75sc on the top, 3sc in the corner, turn quarter and work 75sc on next side (you will make 7sc and 8sc in every other stripe), 3sc in next corner, 75 sc on the bottom, 3sc in corner, 75sc on next side (same as previous), 3sc in corner. Join with sl st in 1st sc of the rnd. Mark central sc in every corner.
Rnd 2. Ch1 (not a st), sc in same st. Continue crocheting around the square and make 3sc in every marked st in the corner. Join either with sl st in1st sc after ch1, or with Needle (invisible) Join into 2nd st after ch1 (see tutorial HERE). Fasten off. (77sc on each side + 3sc in every corner)
Rnds 3-4. Join shade 815 in any st after central st in the corner (by simply pulling a loop and making ch1) and sc around making 3sc in central st in each corner. Join as on rnd 2. Fasten off. (After rnd 4 you’ll get 81 sc on each side + 3 sc in every corner)
Rnds 5-6. With shade 817 repeat rnds 3 and 4. (After rnd 6 you’ll get 85 sc on each side + 3 sc in every corner. And this is the same stitch count as on front!)
After rnd 6 back part should be the same size as front!
Place front and back with wrong sides facing (I liked the wrong side look of the border on the back, so I decided that wrong side will be right. But you may join the pillow as you like). You will crochet joning row on the back! With shade 813 start joining both parts on the bottom approx 5cm (2”) before the corner – for an appropriate size of the zip opening.
Important! Find central sc in the corner on both front and back and make sure you begin joining in the right st on front and back (the amount of sts till the corner should be the same!)
Crochet with sc till the 1st corner (insert the hook under all 4 loops), continue crocheting along 3 next sides, and make the same amount on another edge of the bottom as in the beginning. Don’t fasten off and continue to crochet with sc on the back only. When you come to the beginning of joining row, cut yarn leaving approx 50cm (20”) tail and NJ in 1st sc of joining row.
Now crochet with sc along unworked part of the zip opening (on the wrong side of the Front part).
When you come to the beginning of joining row, again - cut yarn leaving approx 50cm (20”) tail and finish with NJ to the beginning of joining row.
Pin zip to the opening on the bottom of the cover with a few sewing pins and sew it along the opening using yarn tails with running stitch. Secure the tails and cut yarn.
Ta-dah!!! Your very own Tapestry Circles Pillow cover is now finished!
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You will need:
- Yarn in 10 shades. I used Stone Washed by Scheepjes in shades 802, 820, 816, 815, 806, 817, 808, 813, 805 and 801. One skein of each shade (but you can create your own color combination if you wish).
- Crochet hook Clover Soft Touch* 3.25mm
- One zip – 30cm.
- Scissors and tapestry needle to weave yarn tails in.
Finished Measurements
The size of finished pillow cover will depend on yarn and hook you choose, and also on your personal gauge. My pillow is approx. 44cm x 44cm (17 ½” x 17 ½”).
Gauge
Gauge for front and back differs a bit, because of additional yarn going through front.
Front: 20 sts x 21 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”)
Back: 19 sts x 21 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”)
Level
Intermediate (though I believe advanced beginners can absolutely try tapestry crochet as well).
Stitch guide and Abbreviations
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.rnd(s) - round(s)
st(s) - stitch(es)
ch - chain
sl st (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
NJ – needle join
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
Important Notes
- If you have never tried tapestry crochet before, please, study THIS photo-tutorial first and make sure you understand the technique and can read the chart.
- Ch1 in the beginning of every row doesn’t count as sc. So 1st sc of every row is made in 1st sc of previous row.
- Change colour on the last yarn-over of the last sc of the relevant row. In the same way as in Windy Morning Shawlette (HERE).
INSTRUCTIONS
Add this pattern to Ravelry Queue
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2016. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
FRONT
Front part of the pillow is made in tapestry crochet. Each repeat consists of 16 sts + 5sts to finish (for symmetry). I made 5 repeats, but you can make more (to make the pillow larger).
Each stripe with dots (18 rows) is made with yarn in 2 colors.
Row 1. Ch86 with 802 (C1). Starting in 2nd ch from hook sc in every ch to the end. (85sc) Turn.
Rows 2-3. Ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), 85sc. Turn.
Row 4. You will start working with shades 802 (C1) and 820 (C2) at the same time.
Ch1, *8sc with C1 (change yarn on 8th sc), 5sc with C2 (change yarn on 5th sc), 3sc with C1* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 5. Сh1, *7sc with C1, 5sc with C2, 2sc with C1* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 6. Сh1, *6sc with C1, 9sc with C2, 1sc with C1* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 7-12. Сh1, *5sc with C1, 11sc with C2* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 13. As row 6.
Row 14. As row 5.
Row 15. As row 4. Cut C2 leaving 15cm (6”) tail.
Row 16-18. With C1 as row 2. Change to 816. Cut C1 leaving 15 cm (6”) tail.
Next stripe (rows 19-36) will be worked with shades 816 (C3) and 815 (C4).
Rows 19-21. With C3. As row 2.
Row 22. Ch1, *5sc with C4, 11sc with C3* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Row 23. Ch1, *6sc with C4, 9sc with C3, 1sc with C4* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Row 24. Ch1, *7sc with C4, 7sc with C3, 2sc with C4* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Rows 25-30. Ch1, *8sc with C4, 5sc with C3, 3sc with C4* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Row 31. As row 24.
Row 32. As row 23.
Row 33. As row 22. Cut C4 leaving 15cm (6”) tail.
Rows 34-36. With C3 as row2. Change to 806. Cut C1 leaving 15 cm (6”) tail.
Rows 37-54. Repeat rows 1-18 working with shades 806 (C1) and 801 (C2).
Rows 55-72. Repeat rows 19-36 working with shades 808 (C3) and 813 (C4).
Rows 73-90. Repeat rows 1-19 working with shades 805 (C1) and 817 (C2).
Note: after row 90 you should get a square shape.
After row 90 change to shade 808 and crochet around the whole square making 85sc on each side and 3sc in each corner (for even and neat work - make 17sc into every stripe on the sides). Finish with sl st in 1st sc of this rnd or with NJ in 2nd sc. Cut yarn and weave all tails in.
BACK
You have two options for the back. To make it easier, you can begin with the same stitch count as for front (ch86 and 85sc on each row) and make necessary amount of stripes to match the front in height. Since you will have the same stitch count on the bottom and top, it will be easy to join both parts together.
I wanted the back of my pillow to be composed of stripes which are later squared up with simple striped border. To imitate quilt. So I began with a smaller stitch count. Here is what I did:
Row 1. Ch75 with 802. Starting in 2nd ch from hook sc in every ch to the end. (75sc) Turn
Row 2-90. Ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), 75sc. Turn.
Color way:
Rows 1-9. Shade 802
Rows 10-18. Shade 820
Rows 19-27. Shade 815
Rows 28-36. Shade 816
Rows 37-45. Shade 806
Rows 46-54. Shade 808
Rows 55-63. Shade 817
Rows 64-72. Shade 813
Rows 73-81. Shade 801
Rows 82-90. Shade 805
After row 90 the back is approx. 40cm x 39 cm (16” x 15 ½”). To bring stitch count of the back to the same amount as front, change yarn to 808 after row 90 and start working around the whole square.
Rnd 1. 75sc on the top, 3sc in the corner, turn quarter and work 75sc on next side (you will make 7sc and 8sc in every other stripe), 3sc in next corner, 75 sc on the bottom, 3sc in corner, 75sc on next side (same as previous), 3sc in corner. Join with sl st in 1st sc of the rnd. Mark central sc in every corner.
Rnd 2. Ch1 (not a st), sc in same st. Continue crocheting around the square and make 3sc in every marked st in the corner. Join either with sl st in1st sc after ch1, or with Needle (invisible) Join into 2nd st after ch1 (see tutorial HERE). Fasten off. (77sc on each side + 3sc in every corner)
Rnds 3-4. Join shade 815 in any st after central st in the corner (by simply pulling a loop and making ch1) and sc around making 3sc in central st in each corner. Join as on rnd 2. Fasten off. (After rnd 4 you’ll get 81 sc on each side + 3 sc in every corner)
Rnds 5-6. With shade 817 repeat rnds 3 and 4. (After rnd 6 you’ll get 85 sc on each side + 3 sc in every corner. And this is the same stitch count as on front!)
After rnd 6 back part should be the same size as front!
JOINING
Place front and back with wrong sides facing (I liked the wrong side look of the border on the back, so I decided that wrong side will be right. But you may join the pillow as you like). You will crochet joning row on the back! With shade 813 start joining both parts on the bottom approx 5cm (2”) before the corner – for an appropriate size of the zip opening.
Important! Find central sc in the corner on both front and back and make sure you begin joining in the right st on front and back (the amount of sts till the corner should be the same!)
Crochet with sc till the 1st corner (insert the hook under all 4 loops), continue crocheting along 3 next sides, and make the same amount on another edge of the bottom as in the beginning. Don’t fasten off and continue to crochet with sc on the back only. When you come to the beginning of joining row, cut yarn leaving approx 50cm (20”) tail and NJ in 1st sc of joining row.
Now crochet with sc along unworked part of the zip opening (on the wrong side of the Front part).
When you come to the beginning of joining row, again - cut yarn leaving approx 50cm (20”) tail and finish with NJ to the beginning of joining row.
INSERTING ZIP
Pin zip to the opening on the bottom of the cover with a few sewing pins and sew it along the opening using yarn tails with running stitch. Secure the tails and cut yarn.
Ta-dah!!! Your very own Tapestry Circles Pillow cover is now finished!
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If you haven’t tried tapestry crochet technique yes, you definitely should. You
have probably come across lots of wonderful pictures of projects made in
tapestry crochet. And they may have looked too advanced or tricky to you. Mainly
because of multiple color changes and detailed images. But the truth is tapestry
crochet doesn’t differ much from traditional one. It uses ordinary single
crochet stitches (US term) but with yarns of several colors used at the same
time. So you crochet in usual way but change yarns from time to time to create a
colorful pattern. I've tried to explain tapestry process with pictures in a
photo-tutorial below. And I hope it will be helpful!
Disclosure: This blog post contains affiliate links marked with *. Thanks for your support!
Usually there are two types of instructions available for tapestry crochet patterns: written explanations and charts. I personally find it easier to work from the charts. They are the same as for cross stitch embroidery: you can clearly see where the change of the color happens and it’s easier to count.
The majority of tapestry projects are worked in round – so all the rounds are made on the right side. But you can also work in back and forth (as I did for my Tapestry Circles Pillow). Some very skillful crafters crochet all the rows on the right side, changing right and left hands. I am not so skillful, so I just crocheted my pillow cover in usual way. I got stripes on each side (as you usually do with single crochet), but I kinda like them!
2. The color is always changed when you still have 2 loops on the hook. So you will do it on the last yarn over (to finish last stitch in previous color). Now, after color is changed, place yarn C1 on the top of crocheted piece and continue to crochet with C2 over it.
3. If you do everything correctly, the yarn of different color will not be seen either on right or wrong side.
4. If you see the yarn through the stitches, try to pull the (inside) yarn a bit before every color change. But don’t pull too much, as your work may wrap! The width of your project should stay the same after every row.
5. You should crochet over yarn of different color while making EVERY stitch. Don’t miss any. Otherwise you will get floats of yarn on the right (or wrong side).
6. When you work in rows it is important that you decide on which side is right and which is wrong. It has nothing to do with the pattern, as it will be reversible. But it is important to know how you should begin each row. When starting row on the wrong side, you should hold second yarn in front of your work. And starting row on the right side - hold 2nd yarn behind the work. It will give small colorful waves on the wrong side, while right side will look nice and neat.
For this tutorial I used Stoned Washed* yarn by Scheepjes in shades 815 (C1) and 820 (C2). And 3.25mm Clover Soft Touch* crochet hook. The definition of the stitches with this yarn is very neat. And I would say it is great for tapestry crochet. The only disadvantage is that it is a bit difficult to frog. So you may want to use other yarn (scraps) to practice. But I would definitely recommend Stone Washed for your finished projects in tapestry crochet. I used it for my newest Tapestry Circles Pillow design. You can see the pictures HERE. And HERE is my review about Stoned Washed yarn.
I will show you the basics of tapestry crochet on the example of simple triangle. Here is the chart:
This small sample uses 2 colors of yarn. As you see first 4 rows are made in one color (C1 - aqua), and then the triangle pattern with C2 (pink) begins. Ch1 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as sc, so make 1st sc of each row in 1st st of previous row.
So, let’s try? :)
Row 1. Ch22 with yarn C1 (aqua). Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, sc in every ch till the end. (21sc) Turn.
Row 2-4. Ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), 21sc. Turn.
Row 5. On this row and next rows till 11th you will use C2 (pink) together with C1. Place C1 along the top of your crocheted piece and start crocheting over it, as shown above.
Ch1, 5sc with C1 (change color on 5th sc), 11sc with C2 (change color on 11th sc), 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 6. Ch1, 6sc with C1, 9sc with C2, 6sc with C1. Turn.
Row 7. Ch1, 7sc with C1, 7sc with C2, 7sc with C1. Turn.
Row 8. Ch1, 8sc with C1, 5sc with C2, 8sc with C1. Turn.
Row 9. Ch1, 9sc with C1, 3sc with C2, 9sc with C1. Turn.
Row 10. Ch1, 10sc with C1, 1sc with C2, 10sc with C1. Turn.
Now you can either cut C2 and work next rows with C1 only, or you can continue crocheting over all the stitches with C1 (over C2). In this way your crocheted fabric will have the same thickness.
In my sample I cut C2, because Stone Washed yarn seems thick enough to me, and the difference in thickness between the parts is not critical at all.
Row 11-14. Ch1, 21sc with C1. Turn.
Congratulations!!! Your first sample in tapestry crochet is finished! Did it work well for you? Please, share your opinions with me!
If you would like to learn more about Tapestry Crochet and try some free and paid patterns – be sure to check art work of Carol Ventura and her web-site HERE. And FREE pattern of my Tapestry Circles pillow will be very soon available here on my blog. UPDATE: the pattern is HERE.
You can subscribe to weekly newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Disclosure: This blog post contains affiliate links marked with *. Thanks for your support!
Usually there are two types of instructions available for tapestry crochet patterns: written explanations and charts. I personally find it easier to work from the charts. They are the same as for cross stitch embroidery: you can clearly see where the change of the color happens and it’s easier to count.
The majority of tapestry projects are worked in round – so all the rounds are made on the right side. But you can also work in back and forth (as I did for my Tapestry Circles Pillow). Some very skillful crafters crochet all the rows on the right side, changing right and left hands. I am not so skillful, so I just crocheted my pillow cover in usual way. I got stripes on each side (as you usually do with single crochet), but I kinda like them!
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2016. All rights reserved. This
tutorial is for
unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce
it. The
tutorial may not be
copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Please, read
Copyright page
for more information.
What you should keep in mind:
- If you are new to tapestry crochet, choose thick yarn and larger hook to learn this technique. The yarn should not be fluffy, as you will not be able to see each and every stitch.
- Don’t crochet loose. I would say you should crochet tight. You will use several yarns at the same time, and crochet with one color over another one. And if you crochet too loose, another color will be seen through the stitches. And you want to avoid it.
- Your crochet hook should match yarn very well. If you feel like you don’t get the right tension, try to change hook to a smaller (or larger) one until you are satisfied with the look of your tapestry fabric.
Tapestry process and Important Notes:
1. Put yarn C2 on the top of previous row. Now you will continue crocheting with yarn C1 in the usual way - but at the same time over C2. Hold C2 with your left hand (if you are right-handed) together with crocheted piece, so that it’s easier for you to insert the hook.
2. The color is always changed when you still have 2 loops on the hook. So you will do it on the last yarn over (to finish last stitch in previous color). Now, after color is changed, place yarn C1 on the top of crocheted piece and continue to crochet with C2 over it.
3. If you do everything correctly, the yarn of different color will not be seen either on right or wrong side.
4. If you see the yarn through the stitches, try to pull the (inside) yarn a bit before every color change. But don’t pull too much, as your work may wrap! The width of your project should stay the same after every row.
5. You should crochet over yarn of different color while making EVERY stitch. Don’t miss any. Otherwise you will get floats of yarn on the right (or wrong side).
6. When you work in rows it is important that you decide on which side is right and which is wrong. It has nothing to do with the pattern, as it will be reversible. But it is important to know how you should begin each row. When starting row on the wrong side, you should hold second yarn in front of your work. And starting row on the right side - hold 2nd yarn behind the work. It will give small colorful waves on the wrong side, while right side will look nice and neat.
Instructions (Triangle Tapestry Sample)
For this tutorial I used Stoned Washed* yarn by Scheepjes in shades 815 (C1) and 820 (C2). And 3.25mm Clover Soft Touch* crochet hook. The definition of the stitches with this yarn is very neat. And I would say it is great for tapestry crochet. The only disadvantage is that it is a bit difficult to frog. So you may want to use other yarn (scraps) to practice. But I would definitely recommend Stone Washed for your finished projects in tapestry crochet. I used it for my newest Tapestry Circles Pillow design. You can see the pictures HERE. And HERE is my review about Stoned Washed yarn.
I will show you the basics of tapestry crochet on the example of simple triangle. Here is the chart:
This small sample uses 2 colors of yarn. As you see first 4 rows are made in one color (C1 - aqua), and then the triangle pattern with C2 (pink) begins. Ch1 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as sc, so make 1st sc of each row in 1st st of previous row.
So, let’s try? :)
Row 1. Ch22 with yarn C1 (aqua). Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, sc in every ch till the end. (21sc) Turn.
Row 2-4. Ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), 21sc. Turn.
Row 5. On this row and next rows till 11th you will use C2 (pink) together with C1. Place C1 along the top of your crocheted piece and start crocheting over it, as shown above.
Ch1, 5sc with C1 (change color on 5th sc), 11sc with C2 (change color on 11th sc), 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 6. Ch1, 6sc with C1, 9sc with C2, 6sc with C1. Turn.
Row 7. Ch1, 7sc with C1, 7sc with C2, 7sc with C1. Turn.
Row 8. Ch1, 8sc with C1, 5sc with C2, 8sc with C1. Turn.
Row 9. Ch1, 9sc with C1, 3sc with C2, 9sc with C1. Turn.
Row 10. Ch1, 10sc with C1, 1sc with C2, 10sc with C1. Turn.
Now you can either cut C2 and work next rows with C1 only, or you can continue crocheting over all the stitches with C1 (over C2). In this way your crocheted fabric will have the same thickness.
In my sample I cut C2, because Stone Washed yarn seems thick enough to me, and the difference in thickness between the parts is not critical at all.
Row 11-14. Ch1, 21sc with C1. Turn.
Congratulations!!! Your first sample in tapestry crochet is finished! Did it work well for you? Please, share your opinions with me!
If you would like to learn more about Tapestry Crochet and try some free and paid patterns – be sure to check art work of Carol Ventura and her web-site HERE. And FREE pattern of my Tapestry Circles pillow will be very soon available here on my blog. UPDATE: the pattern is HERE.
You can subscribe to weekly newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
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