Sunny Border: a new pattern to square mandala’s up

What can be a better feeling than to finally finish one of the wips? Today is the day like this for me. Sunny Border has been staying inside my desk for almost a year. Or to be precise a pre-design was created almost 4 years ago – with an inspiration from Sonea Delvon who helped me testing Sunny Mandala pattern and enlarged it later with a zig-zag border. Since then I have received lots of messages asking to finally write the pattern down. And last summer I came back to it. But today is the day when Sunny Border can happily meet the world!
Sunny Madnala and Border_overlay crochet patterns by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
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Sunny Border is an extension exclusively designed for Sunny Mandala. To square it up and to turn it into a blanket! Though the border was designed with Sunny Mandala in mind, it will perfectly fit any other crochet mandala with 248 stitches on the last round, including Dandelion Mandala, Joana’s Mandala, Spanish Mandala and Illusion Mandala.

The pattern is available on Ravelry HERE. The separate Sunny Border pattern is offered with 20% discount through Monday, May 28th, 2018. Please, use code SUNNY at the check-out. 

OR save 2$ for a set of both Sunny patterns (Sunny mandala + border) – on Ravelry ONLY! To receive it, please, put both (and only these two) patterns to cart and use NO code. Previously purchased Sunny mandala will also count.
Sunny Madnala and Border_overlay crochet patterns by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Sunny Border consists of three parts: round border with zig-zags, corners which are added with join-as-you-go method (so no seaming is involved) and final “stained glass” border. The size of the finished project depends on the yarn and hook you use. My complete square with mandala is approx. 92 cm (36”) large.




Sunny Madnala and Border_overlay crochet patterns by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

The pattern uses overlay crochet technique aimed to intermediate crocheters. If you follow me for a while, you probably know everything about overlay crochet by now. If not, here is brief information for you:

~ Overlay crochet was developed by an artist and jewelry maker Melody MacDuffee in the United States and first introduced in 2003. Melody MacDuffee started to spread her inventions and conducted lots of workshops for hundreds of crochet lovers.

~ Overlay crochet has its roots in Aran crochet. Though it may look a bit complicated and quite often is offered to advanced crocheters, in fact it uses usual crochet stitches, and only few special ones.

~ What is interesting about this technique is that with changing colors on every round it is possible to achieve an effect as if the colors are actually changed after every few stitches.
Sunny Madnala and Border_overlay crochet patterns by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

For my Sunny Border I used the same shades of Stone Washed yarn by Scheepjes as for Sunny Mandala. But any solid colors will work well for this pattern.You can check full range of Stone Washed shades on Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools*  (both in UK with international shipping).

Please, have a look at the projects completed by wonderful testers (with many thanks sent their way!).

Siva Oduri decided to work with cotton threads. Isn't her square great as a pillow cover? Nina Mayer chose calm earthy colors. Hilde Tindlund also used Stone Washed yarn for her Sunny Square, in pastel palette. And Cindy Douglass chose bright sunny colors.
Sunny Madnala and Border_overlay crochet patterns by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Laura decided to go even further, and after the test was completed she used central medallion with flower to add small squares around large square to make her blanket even larger! Check all details about Laura’s extension and colorway on her Ravelry page.
Sunny Madnala and Border_overlay crochet patterns by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Don’t all these projects look different and unique? And this is the magic of overlay crochet! What would you use Sunny Border for? Would you make a blanket, pillow or wall hanging maybe?

Sunny Madnala and Border_overlay crochet patterns by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

 

Facts about Sunny Border


  • Sunny Border is an extension pattern for Sunny Madnala, but also perfect for any crochet mandala with 248 stitches on the last round.
  • Materials: yarn in solid colors, crochet hook, scissors and tapestry needle to weave in tails.
  • Level: Intermediate
  • The pattern is available on on Ravelry HERE. The separate Sunny Border pattern is offered with 20% discount through Monday, May 28th, 2018 (use code SUNNY). OR save 2$ for a set of both Sunny patterns (mandala + border)! To receive it, please, put both (and only these two) patterns to cart and use NO code.
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How to Join Crochet Squares in the Corners

A square is the shape most widely used in crochet. Blankets, pillows, bags… and even garments can be made with squares. Some of them are worked seamlessly in continuous spiral. But most squares are crocheted in rounds – with join. And to get rid of visible seams it is better to join rounds in the corners.
How to join crochet square in the corners - step-by-step photo-tutorial by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

In some simple designs with plain stitches the join in the middle of the round can also be more or less visible. But it’s getting a bit tricky to hide the seam when we are making lace or textured fabric. And join in the corners can help a lot! Also joining in the corner makes stitch count very easy, as we are making the same repeat on each square’s side.
How to join crochet square in the corners - step-by-step photo-tutorial by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Here are two examples of how the squares with single crochet and double crochet stitches (US terms) look when joined on the side and in the corner.

When we work with double crochet stitches, we should make extra chains in the beginning of each round.
How to join crochet square in the corners - step-by-step photo-tutorial by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

And square with single crochet stitches has a visible ridge in the place where rounds are joined.
How to join crochet square in the corners - step-by-step photo-tutorial by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

To minimize both effects it’s better to join rounds in the corners. There are probably many different ways to do that. But here is how I am doing it. Stone Washed* yarn by Scheepjes was used for the needs of this photo-tutorial.


Abbreviations (US terms)


ch chain
sp space
yo yarn over
ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull second loop through the first loop on hook.
sc (single crochet stitch) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook.
dc (double crochet stitch) – yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.


1. Square with single crochet stitches


Make ch2 and 1sc in the same space in the corner, *continue with sc in every stitch along the square's side till you come to the next corner, (1sc, ch2, 1sc) in next space in the corner; repeat from * for next 2 sides. Make 1sc in each stitch on the last (fourth) side till you come to joining ss (slip stitch) of the previous round. Make 1sc in this ss and join the round with ss in ch2-sp in the beginning of the round.
How to join crochet square in the corners - step-by-step photo-tutorial by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

2. Square with double crochet stitches


Make ch4 (or ch5 if you tend to crochet very tight) which will count as first dc+ch2. Make 2dc in same space. *Continue with dc in every stitch along the square's side till you come to the next corner, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in next space in the corner; repeat from * for next 2 sides. Make 1dc in each stitch on the last (fourth) side till you come to joining ss of the previous round. Make 1dc in this ss, 1dc in space of previous round in the corner and join the round with ss in ch2-sp in the beginning of the round.
How to join crochet square in the corners - step-by-step photo-tutorial by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

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Issue 5 of YARN book-a-zine: WOMAN

Issue 5 of YARN book-a-zine has freshly come out of print and safely arrived to my place yesterday. It was probably one of the most exciting and impatiently awaited YARN project I have contributed to. Because… Because it’s very personal. Because it tells the story of our Scheepjes bloggers Tribe. And my own story. And besides that lots of wonderful crochet and knitting pattern inside.
Amethyst Dress crochet pattern - YARN 5 book-a-zine by Scheepjes - www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo credit: Scheepjes

As women, we can wear many different “hats” throughout our lives: daughter, sister, mother, wife, friend. These are roles that unite us, and can sometimes define us. But more importantly, throughout the many roles we play in our lives, we grow and develop. We become stronger, more confident and wiser. 

In this 5th issue of YARN book-a-zine, we explore and celebrate the similarities and differences that unite us together as women. We join hand in hand with women of different ages, cultures, shapes and sizes, to bring you design that tells our stories.
Intro from YARN 5

If this is the first time you come across YARN, it’s a biannual book-a-zine published by Scheepjes yarn company. It combines the features of both a magazine and a book. And each issue is themed, so you can create your own collection. This is the fifth book-a-zine called WOMAN, and you can check previous issues HERE.
YARN 5 book-a-zine - Scheepjes - review by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

No need to say I love each and everyone, and not because I am one of the contributing designers. I like the whole concept of this edition, I like the styling and thick quality paper. And I know that YARN is a true labor of love. It’s created by creative and friendly people who are passionate about yarn and crafts.
YARN 5 book-a-zine - Scheepjes - review by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

I am not sure I can describe with words what YARN 5 is about. So probably the pictures can speak better. This issue includes 14 crochet and knitting patterns (garments, shawls, wraps, blankets, tablecloth, pillows and accessories). In this issue you will also find a “Must-Haves” guide about stylish and handy crafty tools and accessories, and get acquainted with Anne Ten Donkelaar, a designer and artist.
Our Tribe yarn by Scheepjes

And the central chapter is devoted to Scheepjes Bloggers group (or, Tribe, as we call it). You’ll meet all bloggers – super creative, lovely and friendly ladies and one man, and you’ll learn more about individuals colorways of brand new yarn Our Tribe by Scheepjes (reviewed HERE). And because we are talking about Our Tribe yarn now, be sure to check an article by Tammy of Canadutch who swatched each and every colorway for you to see the colorchanges.
Our Tribe yarn by Scheepjes
Photo credit: Canadutch

I will not show you all designs included in YARN 5 (you can see previews on Ravelry HERE), but I just have to tell you about my own designs. Which I am very proud of.

One of them is Amethyst Dress – my latest challenge in garment design and sizing. The dress uses Whirl* and Whirlette* yarns in matching and gorgeous lavender shades. The construction is very simple: square yoke is growing down to an A-shaped skirt. And the dress comes in 5 sizes (S-XXL).

Amethyst Dress crochet pattern - YARN 5 book-a-zine by Scheepjes - www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo credit: Scheepjes
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And another design I contributed to YARN 5 is Techno Clutch made in tapestry crochet with 10g mini skeins of Catona* yarn (or ‘cuties pies’).
Techno Clutch tapestry crochet pattern - YARN 5 book-a-zine by Scheepjes - www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo credit: Scheepjes
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Techno Clutch tapestry crochet pattern - YARN 5 book-a-zine by Scheepjes - www.lillabjorncrochet.com

I was a bit in a hurry wanting to show you newest issue of YARN book-a-zine, and I didn’t really have time to sit down and carefully read it through. So please, excuse me, I am off to read.

And you can grab your own copy (in English or in Dutch) in your local Scheepjes shops or via online retailers : Caro’s Atelier* (IN STOCK!!! - NL and Europe), Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* - will be in stock any day now (UK with international shipping), and Knotty House* (Canada). Enjoy!

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Roman Labyrinth: a rug and a pillow in one pattern

Graphic design and architecture are always wonderful sources of inspiration for crochet pieces. Last summer while browsing Pinterest (my favourite place to search for inspiration) I came across Roman Labyrinth image. It was a picture of ancient floor title somewhere in Italy. And I thought it would be great to recreate the same image in crochet. For an area rug. I adapted labyrinth graphics for the needs of overlay crochet. And here it is! My new overlay crochet pattern!
Roman Labyrinth pattern is written for both a rug and a pillow. Overlay crochet design by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

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Roman labyrinth was well known and widespread throughout the Roman Empire, and many examples have survived from this period, especially in the form of floor mosaics. Nowadays Roman Labyrinth is used in contemporary interior design. I like these clear geometric lines, and I think it can suit well modern interiors: both as rug and as a pillow.

Roman Labyrinth pattern is on SALE right now through Monday, April 30th, 2018 both on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. It is offered with 25% discount which is already applied in price and no coupon codes needed. 






Using Roman Labyrinth pattern you can make either a pillow or an area rug. The pattern can be recreated with just two shades of yarn. Or, if you like the colors, you can choose a new shade for every of five sections and combine them with main color. The colorful version will become a great accessory for your kid’s room. My sun can’t stop playing with his new pillow. And he claimed it as his own from the very first moment when I only created the chart.
Roman Labyrinth pattern is written for both a rug and a pillow. Overlay crochet design by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Roman Labyrinth pattern is written for both a rug and a pillow. Overlay crochet design by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Roman Labyrinth pattern contains row-by-row written instructions, the chart (with explanation of how to read it) and step-by-step pictures to guide you through every step and row. A print friendly version of the pattern with no pictures is also available for download. There is also a tutorial about how to use multiple colors to create the same pillow as mine.

The pattern uses overlay crochet with front post stitches on the right side. You will only use one color for each two rows, and the yarn is not broken but is carried along the edge up to the next rows. Easy and almost no ends to weave in.
Roman Labyrinth pattern is written for both a rug and a pillow. Overlay crochet design by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

For this project you can use absolutely any yarn in solid colors. I would recommend something heavy and bulky for the rug. I have wanted to try Lopi yarn since long ago, and rug seemed like the perfect project for that. I chose Alafosslopi yarn which is bulky weight, and used two shades for central labyrinth panel, and then added four different colors for the border. My rug turned out thick and warm. Just a perfect feel for my feet.

Lopi yarn is available via Wool Warehouse HERE* (UK with international shipping) if you prefer to shop online.
Roman Labyrinth pattern is written for both a rug and a pillow. Overlay crochet design by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Roman Labyrinth pattern is written for both a rug and a pillow. Overlay crochet design by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

And for my pillow I used leftovers of Colour Crafter yarn by Scheepjes in bright and happy colors together with 4.5mm crochet hook*. I felt lazy to crochet back side for my pillow, so I sewed crocheted square onto ready fabric pillowcase bought in IKEA. Here is a video tutorial on how I usually do this.

You can purchase Colour Crafter yarn in your local Scheepjes shops, or via online retailers*:

Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping)
Black Sheep Wools* (UK, international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)

Roman Labyrinth pattern is written for both a rug and a pillow. Overlay crochet design by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

In my opinion Roman Labyrinth pattern is quite a relaxing project, and with large hook your new rug will be born in no time. You can skip written instructions and follow the chart if you are comfortable with just visual support. I will be very happy to see your finished creations! Please, share them with me in my Ravelry group HERE or Facebook group HERE. And please use the tag #romanlabyrinthrug on social media.


Brief Facts about Roman Labyrinth pattern:

 

  • Level: Intermediate: tapestry crochet, clusters and front post stitches
  • Language: English (US terms)
  • Pattern contains complete written instructions, a chart and heavy photo-tutorial. Print friendly version of the pattern without pictures is also available for download.
  • Roman Labyrinth pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE and is offered with 20% discount through Monday, April 30th, 2018. The discount is already applied in the price you see, and no coupon codes needed.
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Peacock Tail Mandala pillow: FREE crochet pattern

Peacock Tail Mandala pattern is an adaptation of Peacock Tail Bag into full circle. You can use this mandala as wall hanging, pillow (shown in the pattern), table decoration and even area rug (if made with worsted/bulky yarn and larger hook).
Peacock Tail Mandala_free overlay crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

 Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

 

*Purchase an ad-free and ready-to-print PDF of this pattern in ENGLISH (including all Important Notes, material list, stitch guide, complete instructions and photo tutorials) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

 

You will need:

  
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!

~ Amour Clover crochet hook 4.5mm* or the size which will give you correct gauge
~ Tapestry needle to weave in yarn tails
~ Aran yarn in five colors. I used Cahlista yarn by Scheepjes in the following shades (amounts are given for entire pillow): 401 (3 skeins), 395 (3 skeins), 282 (3 skeins), 527 (3 skeins), 249 (1 skein)

Cahlista yarn is available in Scheepjes local stores as well as at Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK with international shipping), Caro’s Atelier* (NL) and Knotty House* (Canada).


Measurements: The size of the finished mandala depends on the yarn and hook you use. My pillow is approx. 62cm (24 ½”) large across.

Gauge: after 4 rounds circle with dc measures 10cm (4”) across.

Check Important Notes for this pattern HERE.

Peacock Tail Mandala_free overlay crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com


Abbreviations (US terms)


rnd round
st(s) stitch(es) 

ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated

ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull second lp through the first lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc (half double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 3 lps.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, *pull through 2 lps* twice.
FPtr (front post treble) – yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* three times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble 2 together) - *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
FPtr5tog (front posttreble 5 together) - *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice*5 times, yo, pull through all 6 lps on hook.
FPdtr2tog (front post double treble 2 together) - *yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] 3 times* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
FPdtr (front post double treble)– yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.

“modified” tr4tog - yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice, *yo twice, insert the hook to the hole at the bottom of stitch just made, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice*3 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook. Check tutorial HERE.

Peacock Tail Mandala_free overlay crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

INSTRUCTIONS


Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
 
Color Key: C1 – emerald (401), C2 – green (395), C3 – purple (282), C4 – dark blue (527), C5 – yellow (249)

Important!! If you are familiar with overlay crochet, you may probably know that stitches of the background are usually made in back loops only. But for this pattern please work all rounds and rows on back AND front – through both loops!!!

Rnd 1. Start with yarn C1. Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as first dc) and 11dc in magic ring; NJ in first dc of the rnd after ch2. (12)
Peacock Tail Mandala_free overlay crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Rnd 2. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in any st of rnd 1. First dc increase will be ch2+dc in same st where yarn was attached.

*2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the first dc of the rnd after ch2. (24)
Peacock Tail Mandala_free overlay crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Rnd 3. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in first st of any dc increase of rnd 2.

*dc in next (first dc of the rnd will be ch2 – here and throughout), 2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the first dc of the rnd after ch2. (36)
Peacock Tail Mandala_free overlay crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com





Rnd 4. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in first dc of any dc increase of rnd 3.

*2dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the first dc of the rnd after ch2. (48)

Rnd 5. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in second dc after any dc increase of rnd 4.

*3dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the first dc of the rnd after ch2. (60)

Rnd 6. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in second dc of any dc increase of rnd 5.
Note: please, feel free to replace FPtr’s with FPdtr’s if they pull too much.

*hdc in next 5 sts (first hdc will be ch2 – here and throughout), FPtr around second dc of inc of rnd 4 below, skip no sts on rnd 5* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (72)


Rnd 7. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in second hdc before any FPtr of rnd 6.

*5hdc, 2hdc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the first hdc of the rnd after ch2. (84)

Row 8. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in first st after any increase of Rnd 7.
On this and all next rounds tr4tog's are made in a "modified" way (See Abbreviations and Stitch Guide).

*3hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st, 3hdc, 1FPtr around central st of Rnd 6 between two FPtr below, skip no sts* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (96)


Rnd 9. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in any FPtr. Don’t work tight.

96hdc, NJ in first hdc after ch2, mark the loop of NJ. (96 sts)

Rnd 10. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in second st after marked st.

*3hdc, 2hdc in next st, 3hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (108)

Rnd 11. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in any tr4tog. Don’t work tight.

108 hdc, NJ in first hdc after ch2, mark the loop of NJ. (108)


Rnd 12. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in first st after marked one.
Note: all increases are made directly above tr4tog’s of row 10. First increase will be ch2+dc in same st where yarn was attached.

*2hdc in next st, 4hdc, 1FPtr around second hdc of increase below, skip 1 st, 3hdc* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (120 sts)

Rnd 13. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in second st of Rnd 12 before any FPtr.
Note: you will get 12 “U” on this row.

*5hdc, ch4, FPsc around 3 sts on row 11 (find tr4tog on row 10 below. Make FPsc into the st of row 11 that goes into this tr4tog, then make 1FPsc around each of next 2 next sts of rnd 11), ch4, skip 5 sts on Rnd 12* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2.


Rnd 14. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in first hdc of any group of 5hdc of Rnd 13.

*3hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr of Rnd 12 below, skip no sts, 2hdc, 1FPtr around same st of Rnd 11 where first FPsc was made, 3FPtr around next st of Rnd 11, 1FPtr around next st of Rnd 11, skip ch4-sp* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (132)


Rnd 15. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in first st of Rnd 14 before any tr4tog.

*5hdc, 1FPtr around ch4-sp below, skip no sts, 5hdc, 1FPtr around ch4-sp below, skip 1 st,* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (144 sts)

Rnd 16. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in FPtr of Rnd 15 before any tr4tog of same color below.

*3hdc, 2hdc in next st, 3hdc, 1FPtr around each of 5 FPtr below, skip 5 sts* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (156)


Rnd 17. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in first st after any group of 5 FPtr of Rnd 16.

*8hdc, 1FPtr around FPtr of row 15 below, skip 1 st, 4hdc, 1FPtr around next FPtr of Rnd 15 below, skip no sts* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (168)


Row 18. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in third hdc of Rnd 17 of any group of 4 hdc.

*14hdc, FPtr5tog (make each leg around each of 5 FPtr of same color below), skip no sts* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (180)


Rnd 19. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in second st after any FPtr5tog of Rnd 18.
Note: when making FPtr2tog - work every leg around each of two FPtr of Rnd 17 lying to the right and to the left from FPtr5tog of previous rnd. Feel free to replace FPtr2tog with FPdtr2tog if it’s too tight.

*15hdc, 1FPtr2tog, skip no sts* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (192)


Rnd 20. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in first st of Rnd 19 before any FPtr2tog.

*5hdc, 1FPtr around st of Rnd 18 which was made after FPtr of row 17 below, skip no sts, 10hdc, 1FPtr (as previous), sk 1 sts* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (204)


Rnd 21. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in fourth hdc of Rnd 20 of any group of 5 hdc.

*16hdc, 2hdc in next st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (216)


Rnd 22. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in first hdc of Rnd 21 before any increase.

*6hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st, 5hdc, 2hdc in next st, 4hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (228)


Rnd 23. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in second hdc of any increase of Rnd 22.

*9hdc, 1FPtr around second hdc of increase of Rnd 21 below, skip 1 st, 9hdc* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (228)


Rnd 24. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in first st of Rnd 23 before any FPtr.

*4hdc, FPtr around tr4tog below, skip 1 st, 6hdc, 2hdc in next st, 6hdc, 1FPtr around tr4tog below, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (240)


Rnd 25. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in fourth hdc of Rnd 24 of any group of 4 hdc.
Note: Feel free to replace FPtr’s with FPdtr’s if needed.

*10hdc, 1FPtr around st of Rnd 23 made in first st of increase of Rnd 22, skip no sts, 9hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (252)


Rnd 26. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in second st of rnd 27 after any tr4tog. Make legs of FPtr2tog around FPtr of same color below lying to the right and to the left of current stitch.

*20hdc, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (252)


Rnd 27. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in fifth st of Rnd 26 before any FPtr2tog.

*5hdc, 2hdc in next FPtr2tog, 6hdc, 1tr4tog in fourth hdc of row 25 before next FPtr, skip 1 st, 3hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st, 3hdc, 1tr4tog in fourth hdc of row 25 after FPtr, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (264)


Rnd 28. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in fourth st of Rnd 27 before any increase.
Note: legs of FPtr2togs are made around hdc of row 26 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 27 below.

*13sc (first sc will be ch1 – here and to the end), [1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st, 3sc] twice, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first sc after ch1. (264)


Rnd 29. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in first sc of Rnd 28 after first FPtr2tog of any group of 3 FPtr2tog’s.

Ch2 (doesn’t count as hdc), *1tr4tog in hdc of row 27 visible at the bottom of “V”, skip 1 st, 2hdc, 1tr4tog (as previous), skip 1 st, 11hdc, 2hdc in next st, 6hdc* 12 times – make last hdc in same st where yarn was attached; NJ in first tr4tog. (276)


Rnd 30. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in second hdc of Rnd 29 of any group of 19 hdc.
Note: legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around FPtr2tog’s of Rnd 28 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 29 below.

*18sc, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st, 3sc, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first sc after ch1. (276)


Rnd 31. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in FPtr2tog of Rnd 30 after any group of 3 sc.

*9hdc, 2hdc in next st, 12hdc, 1tr4tog in st of Rnd 29 at the bottom of “V” below, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (288)


Row 32. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in second hdc of Rnd 31 after any tr4tog.
Note: legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around FPtr2tog’s of Rnd 30 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 31 below.

*23sc, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first sc after ch1. (288 sts)


Row 33. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in any st of Rnd 32.
Dc in every st around, NJ in first dc after ch2.
Peacock Tail Mandala_free overlay crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com


Back part

  • Back part of Peacock pillow is worked in rounds on RS through both loops.
  • Change colors on every round as per pattern (or in whatever order). Attach yarn in any sts between increases of previous round (or two round below if previous round doesn’t contain increases).
  • First hdc/dc of each rnd will be ch2.
  • Finish rounds with Needle Join (same as for front mandala)

Rnds 1-5. As for front mandala.
Rnd 6. With C3. *4hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (72)
Rnd 7. With C1. *5hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (84)
Rnd 8. With C2. *6hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (96)
Rnd 9. With C3. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (96)
Rnd 10. With C1. *7hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (108)
Rnd 11. With C2. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (108)
Rnd 12. With C4. *8hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (120)
Rnd 13.With C1. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (120)
Rnd 14. With C3. *9hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (132)
Rnd 15. With C2. *10hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (144)
Rnd 16. With C4. *11hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (156)
Rnd 17. With C1. *12hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (168)
Rnd 18. With C3. *13hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (180)
Rnd 19. With C2. *14hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (192)
Rnd 20. With C4. *15hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (204)
Rnd 21. With C1. *16hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (216)
Rnd 22. With C3. *17hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (228)
Rnd 23. With C2. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (228)
Rnd 24. With C4. *18hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (240)
Rnd 25. With C1. *19hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (252)
Rnd 26. With C3. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (252)
Rnd 27. With C2. *20dc, 2dc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first dc. (264)
Rnd 28. With C4. *21dc, 2dc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first dc. (276)
Rnd 29. With C1. *22hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, join with ss in first hdc, don’t fasten off. (288)

Finishing

Place front and back parts with WS facing each other. Sc around inserting the hook through both layers. Stuff the pillow (insert pillow foam) before you finish joining. Then continue sc till beginning of the rnd, join with ss in first sc, fasten off. Weave in tail.

You can also insert zip into the seam if you wish. Hilde Tindlund of RoadRash did it for her pillowcase. Hilde helped me testing the pattern. She chose pastel colors which remind her of sunny summer days at sea with her family :)
Peacock Tail Mandala_free overlay crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Peacock Tail Mandala_free overlay crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo credit: Hilde Tindlund of RoadRash

Congratulations!! Your Peacock Tail Mandala pillow is now finished!

*You  can purchase an ad-free and ready-to-print PDF of this pattern in ENGLISH (including all Important Notes, material list, stitch guide, complete instructions and photo tutorials) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.


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