Showing posts with label shceepjes. Show all posts

Shells and Stones Cabled Shawl: new pattern

Crochet Cables will always be in trend. They are fun to make and they add a nice texture to crochet fabric. Over last couple of years classical crochet cables were rethought, transformed and mixed with overlay crochet. They can be made over any stitch. And that’s even more fun. My Shells and Stones Cabled shawl is an example of such “new cables”.

Shells and Stones shawl pattern was designed exclusively for Happily Hooked Magazine. And now when copyright came back to me, it can finally be published as a stand-alone pattern.

Instructions were polished, and I have added two charts (yay!), rectangular version of the shawl and a tutorial of how to make it with two colors. A step-by-step photo tutorial is also available in the end of the pattern. Pictures show tricky places and explain placement of the stitches.

Shells and Stones Shawl is available with 30% discount HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy through Monday, January 28, 2019. The price you see is final and no codes are needed. After that day the pattern will be listed at a regular price.

Shells and Stones Shawl has an asymmetrical triangular shape with gentle cables and bobbles placed over airy “linen stitch” fabric. The pattern is repetitive, and once you get the rhythm it becomes pretty mindless.

Shawl’s body is made on one color, and then linen border is added along two sides, with a gentle lace edging.

The pattern was written for a fine and soft yarn (fingering), and in combination with a slightly larger hook it creates a very draping and “squishy” fabric.

For my sample I used Our Tribe yarn by Scheepjes in two shades: 880 Silver Birch (3 skeins) and 882 Blue Flower Haze (1 skein), and 4mm crochet hook which is slightly bigger for this yarn.

Our Tribe yarn is available for purchase via local Scheepjes shops and online retailers:

Wool Warehouse*, Deramores*, Black Sheep Wools* (all three in UK, international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo (US and Canada)
Knotty House* (Canada)

Laura Jackson was helping me with testing, and she chose Blue Flower Haze in combination with Iris Garden.

And Astrid Keijser went for bright orange in combination with cream.

Shells and Stones pattern can be easily adapted for a rectangular shape, and I’ve included both written row-by-row instructions and another chart to help you. If you decide to make a blanket, please tag me, or share a picture with me. I would like to see, and I bet it will feel great!

I used single color for a cabled stitch pattern, but it can also be made with two colors at the same time. Here is the effect you can achieve with 2 yarns.

In case you would like to recreate it either with triangular or rectangular shape – please, check a detailed tutorial in the end of the pattern explaining how to use two yarns and how to change color in the end of the rows.

Shells and Stones Shawl is available with 30% discount HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy through Monday, January 28, 2019. The price you see is final and no codes are needed. After that day the pattern will be listed at a regular price.

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Peacock Tail Bag CAL: Part 6 (Final!!)

Today is the day with very mixed emotions. It’s Wednesday again, and time for last crochet part of Peacock Tail Bag CAL to be released. It feels sad… a little bit. But very happy at the same time, as every day I can browse hundreds of your beautiful peacock bags! And I just enjoy looking at them. Please, don’t stop posting them! Today’s part is probably the easiest but very important. You will finally join front and back of your bag together, add a band and attach D-rings. It also means you can start using your bag at once. Or wait for one more week and line it with fabric.

Peacock Tail Bag CAL, Part 6: joining and adding the band. Free pattern in overlay crochet by Lilla Bjorn.

Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!

If it’s the first time you hear about this CAL, please check page with General Information HERE, and also Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4 and Part 5. UPDATE: lining tutorial was released and can be found HERE.

Important Notes

I don’t really have any important notes to share with you today. Maybe just a small remind that you should work quite tight on the band, so that it is stiff enough to keep its shape. It is especially important if you don’t intend to line your bag with fabric.

The band is made with single crochet stitches. If you feel it’s not getting stiff enough – please, change to a smaller hook. I know that for someone it will be a painful pain, as you already work with a smallest possible hook. Don’t worry about it. You can also stay with the same hook. Just do what you are comfortable with.

Tags on Ravelry. Do you know that you can use tags for your projects on Ravelry? They help your projects to pop-up higher in an advanced Ravelry search. If you haven’t attached any tags to your Peacock Tail projects, please, do that. Here are just a few tags you can use: peacock-tail-bag, CAL, bag, overlay, colourwork, phototutoroal…

EDIT: ok! Just decided to add another note. After you join front and back togehter you will notice that they don't fit with the shape at 100%. I did my best to bring the bag's shape to the best possible symmetry... After you add the band everything should work itself out and your bag should look nicely. BUT! Because of your personal crochet style the wings can be much higher than mine. If you feel you don't like it and if you feel like correcting bag's opening, please, TRY first to make a straight line with surface crochet slip stitches (tutorial is HERE) around the bag's opening. And then crochet 1st round of the band in these stitches (and on round 2 you will probably not need to make any hdc).

Just a small remind. I am using Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes and 2.75mm (С) Clover Soft Touch hook*. Linen Soft is available for purchase via Wool Warehouse HERE* (international shipping), Paradise Fibers (US) HERE* or in your local Scheepjes shop. Separate bag handles, magnetic clasps and D-rings are available via Wool Warehouse HERE*.

If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.

COPYRIGHT

IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.

INSTRUCTIONS: PART 6

English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish

VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.

Abbreviations (US terms)

US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.

rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sc single crochet

************************************************************

Putting bag together

Before starting to join front and back parts of your bag – carefully weave all yarn tails in (if you haven’t done this before). The edges will look neat if you unweave all slip knots in the beginning of each row.

To join front and back parts of your bag, place them together with wrong sides facing and start joining with single crochet using C4 (C6) in sts of row 33 (145 sts in total). Insert the hook through both layers (under 4 loops).

Now turn work a quarter and start crocheting around opening of the bag.

Rnd 1. First you will be crocheting on the front part which consists of 3 parts: two “wings” and round center. Work evenly 27sc on first “wing”, then 1sc in each of 15 sts of circle center and 27sc on next “wing”. Sc in joining row on the side and continue on the back part: 27sc, 15sc, 27sc and 1sc in joining row (140 sc in total on round 1). Mark the last stitch and move marker to the last st of each new round as you progress.

Rnd 2. On this round you will work with hdc on central part (between beginning and end of row 12). For ease, mark beginning and end of row 12 on front and back.
Working on front: Continue with sc till row 12 (in my case 20sc), continue with hdc till beginning or row 12 (in my case 29 hdc), and then continue with sc till the other side of front (20 sc).
Work on back in the same way as on front.

Rnd 3-12. 140 sc around. After rnd 12 join with sl st in next st, fasten off and weave yarn tail in.

Attaching Handles

Make two rectangles with the same yarn as for the band.

Row 1. Ch7, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5ch. Turn. (6 sts)
Row 2-10. Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc in next 6 sts. Turn (6 sts)

Sc around making 3sc in each corner. Finish with sl st, fasten off leaving 25cm (10”) tail. Pull D ring on a rectangle, fold it and sew to one side of the band using yarn tail. Sew 2nd rectangle to the other side of the band. Weave in all yarn tails.

Congratulations!!! Your new Peacock Tail Bag is now finished!! Your can either start using it already or wait till next week and line it with fabric.

Please, also check video made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.

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How to Restore Foundation Chain in Crochet: tutorial

I have been working on a new design recently. And when I was almost done, I suddenly found out there was a mistake made in the very beginning, and I needed to rip several first rows. As an alternative, I could frog the entire project of course, and remake everything from the beginning. But it would be lots of extra work. So instead I decided to investigate a bit and find out, how is it possible to restore a foundation chain for any row, without frogging everything. My first attempt was successful and I decided to write down a tutorial. I hope it will be helpful for you.

When to use this trick?

a) It can be used when you (as me) made a mistake on some rows and need to frog something without remaking the whole project.

b) This trick can help you to repair old or torn project – a blanket, for example. Once you restore the foundation chain for one of the rows, you can continue crocheting in the opposite direction and enlarge your project to the desired size.

Important Note:

Before using this trick on your actual project, please, train once (or better several times) on a sample. Ideally use the same yarn as your project is made with. It will help you to regulate tension and be confident that the trick works well for you. And only when you master it – please, try to apply it for your project.

STEP 1

First of all you should decide which part you would like to frog and where exactly (for which row) you want to restore a foundation chain.

For the purposes of this tutorial I used Stone Washed XL* yarn by Scheepjes. I used contrasting colors for you to clearly see what is happening.

First I will show you how to restore a foundation chain for the row made with double crochet stitches (US terms are used here). I made a sample in two colors and with rows of single crochet and double crochet. As shown in the picture below, I would like to get rid of blue and yellow parts below (inside red rectangle).

I worked on the right side, but it is possible also to make a new foundation chain on the wrong side. It will bring a little bit different effect. So you can experiment a bit (on a sample piece!!!) and see what you like more.

STEP 2

Turn your piece at 180 degrees (so that top is down now) and find the stitches where you will make a new foundation chain (marked with red).

Now you will restore the foundation chain by making a row of surface slip stitches into the posts of stitches which you want to be the first row. I used yarn of contrasting color, but you should probably work with the same yarn (it would be blue in my case).

I didn’t make a slip knot in the beginning, but you can find it useful.

Take a smaller hook and insert it under BOTH bars of the first stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop. *Insert the hook into both bars of next stitch, yarn over, draw up a loop (now you will have 2 loops on the hook) and pull 2nd loop thought 1st one. Repeat from * for EVERY stitch till the end of the row. Make sure that you carefully insert the hook under both bars and cover every single stitch of the row. Try to keep your tension under control, don’t pull too much and don’t work too tight. This row of surface slip stitches must be of the same width as your project. After making slip stitch into the last stitch, fasten off carefully and cut the yarn.

A new foundation chain is finished!

STEP 3

Now you need to unweave (very carefully and gently) the row above new foundation chain. Cut one of the stitches of the row above and start to carefully unweave stitch by stitch. You can use a tapestry needle to help you.

Congratulations!! You are done! In the pictures below you can see how new foundation chain looks on the right and wrong sides.

You can also restore foundation chain for the row of single crochet stitches. Just act in the same way as for double crochet stitches. The bars of sc are a bit shorter, so you will probably need even a smaller hook. And you should be more attentive about the tension, so that your surface slip stitches are not too tight.

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Windy Morning Shawlette: free crochet pattern

Do you know what “shawlette” is? It’s a very nice shape between regular shawl and scarf. It is not very large and not too small and thus can be worn in a variety of ways. My new Windy Morning Shawlette is finished and I am happy to share its free pattern with you. You can also see more pictures of this easy project HERE. Enjoy!

You will need:

Yarn in 3 shades. I used Stone Washed by Scheepjes in shades Crystal Quartz (814 - 2 skeins), Amazonite (813 - 1 skein) and Boulder Opal (804 - 1 skein).

Please NOTE, that yardages are correct only if you have exactly the same gauge as given in the pattern. If your gauge is off you will most likely need more yarn!

Please, read my review about this yarn HERE). You can choose and purchase your shades via Scheepjes.com (NL), Deramores* or Wool Warehouse* (both retailers ship yarn internationally) and Paradise Fibers* (US).

Crochet hook Clover Soft Touch* 3.25mm (D)
Scissors and tapestry needle to weave yarn tails in.

Level

Beginner

Size

The size of your finished shawlette will depend on yarn and hook you choose and also on your personal gauge. My shawlette is approx. 175cm (70in) long and 28cm (11in) wide in the widest part (with border).

The construction os shawlette is very simple. It consists of 3 parts: incresing part, central part and decreasing part. And you can easily adjust the size of your shawlette. For example:

to make it wider - crochet more rows with increases.
to make it longer and wider - crochet more rows with increases + crochet more rows on the central part (without increase)
to make it longer but with the same width - just add more rows without increases on the central part.

Gauge

Using stitch pattern - 22 dc x 9 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4in x 4in)

Stitch guide and Abbreviations

US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.

st(s) - stitch(es)
ch - chain
sp(s) - space(s)
yo - yarn over
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
sl st (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc (half double crochet) - yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through all three lps.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
dc3tog (double crochet 3 together) - *yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook.

Important notes

1. Ch2 in the beginning of every other row counts as 1st dc.
2. Change colour on the last yarn-over of the last dc/dc3tog of the relevant row.

Changing color on the increasing and central parts (on the last yarn-over of last dc):

Changing color on the decreasing part (on the last yarn-over of last dc3tog):

Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2016. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.

Windy Morning Shawlette - free crochet pattern by Lilla Bjorn Crochet

Add this pattern to Ravelry Queue

Color Key: C1 – shade 814, C2 – shade 813, C3 - shade 804

Color way:
Rows 1-81 with C1.
Rows 82-87 with C2.
Rows 88-91 with C3.
Rows 92-97 with C1.
Rows 98-103 with C2.
Rows 104-109 with C3.
Rows 110-113 with C1.
Rows 114-121 with C2.
Rows 122-129 with C3.
Rows 130-135 with C2.
Rows 136-139 with C3.
Rows 140-147 with C2.
Rows 148-155 with C3.
Rows 156-163 with C2.

INSTRUCTIONS

Increasing part

Row 1. Make slip knot and ch4, then 3 dc in 1st ch. Turn. (3 dc+ ch3-sp)

Row 2. Ch4, skip 1st dc, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next st. Turn (2 dc+1ch1-sp+ch4-sp)

Row 3. Ch2 (counts as 1st dc here and in the entire pattern), 1dc in next ch1-sp, 1dc in next dc, 3dc in last ch4-sp. Turn (6 dc)

Row 4. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* twice, 1dc in last sp. Turn (3dc+ 2ch1-sp+ch4-sp)

Row 5. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* twice, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (8 dc)
Row 6. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 3 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (4dc+ 3ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 7. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 3 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (10 dc)
Row 8. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 4 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (5dc+ 4ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 9. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 4 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (12 dc)
Row 10. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 5 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (6dc+ 5ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 11. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 5 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (14 dc)

Row 12. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 6 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (7dc+ 6ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 13. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 6 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (16 dc)
Row 14. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 7 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (8dc+ 7ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 15. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 7 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (18 dc)
Row 16. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 8 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (9dc+ 8ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 17. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 8 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (20 dc)
Row 18. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 9 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (10dc+ 9ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 19. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 9 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (22 dc)
Row 20. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 10 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (11dc+ 10ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 21. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 10 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (24 dc)
Row 22. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 11 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (12dc+ 11ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 23. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 11 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (26 dc)
Row 24. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 12 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (13dc+ 12ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 25. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 12 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (28 dc)
Row 26. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 13 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (14dc+ 13ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 27. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 13 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (30 dc)
Row 28. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 14 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (15dc+ 14ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 29. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 14 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (32 dc)
Row 30. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 15 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (16dc+ 15ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 31. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 15 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (34 dc)
Row 32. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 16 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (17dc+ 16ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 33. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 16 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (36 dc)
Row 34. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 17 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (18dc+ 17ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 35. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 17 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (38 dc)
Row 36. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 18 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (19dc+ 18ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 37. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 18 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (40 dc)
Row 38. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 19 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (20dc+ 19ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 39. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 19 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (42 dc)
Row 40. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 20 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (21dc+ 20ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 41. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 20 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (44 dc)
Row 42. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 21 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (22dc+ 21ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 43. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 21 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (46 dc)
Row 44. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 22 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (23dc+ 22ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 45. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 22 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (48 dc)
Row 46. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 23 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (24dc+ 23ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 47. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 23 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (50 dc)
Row 48. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 24 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (25dc+ 24ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 49. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 24 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (52 dc)
Row 50. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 25 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (26dc+ 25ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 51. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 25 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (54 dc)
Row 52. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 26 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (27dc+ 26ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 53. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 26 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (56 dc)
Row 54. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 27 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (28dc+ 27ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 55. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 27 times, 3dc in last sp. Turn. (58 dc)
Row 56. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 28 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (29dc+ 28ch1-sp+ch4-sp)

Central part

Row 57. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 27 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn. (58 dc)
Rows 58-107. Repeat rows 56 and 57.
Row 108. Repeat row 56.

Decreasing part

Row 109. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 27 times, 1dc3tog (work 1st dc in next sp, work 2nd dc in next dc, work 3rd dc in last sp – here and in the rest of the pattern). Turn. (55 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 110. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 27 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (28dc+ 27ch1-sp+ch4-sp)

Row 111. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 26 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (53 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 112. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 26 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (27dc+ 26ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 113. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 25 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (51 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 114. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 25 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (26dc+ 25ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 115. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 24 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (49 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 116. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 24 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (25dc+ 24ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 117. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 23 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (47 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 118. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 23 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (24dc+ 23ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 119. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 22 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (45 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 120. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 22 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (23dc+ 22ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 121. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 21 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (43 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 122. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 21 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (22dc+ 21ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 123. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 20 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (41 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 124. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 20 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (21dc+ 20ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 125. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 19 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (39 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 126. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 19 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (20dc+ 19ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 127. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 18 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (37 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 128. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 18 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (19dc+ 18ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 129. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 17 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (35 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 130. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 17 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (18dc+ 17ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 131. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 16 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (33 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 132. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 16 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (17dc+ 16ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 133. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 15 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (31 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 134. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 15 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (16dc+ 15ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 135. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 14 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (29 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 136. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 14 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (15dc+ 14ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 137. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 13 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (27 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 138. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 13 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (14dc+ 13ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 139. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 12 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (25 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 140. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 12 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (13dc+ 12ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 141. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 11 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (23 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 142. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 11 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (12dc+ 11ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 143. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 10 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (21 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 144. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 10 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (11dc+ 10ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 145. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 9 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (19 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 146. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 9 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (10dc+ 9ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 147. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 8 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (17 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 148. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 8 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (9dc+ 8ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 149. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 7 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (15 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 150. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 7 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (8dc+ 7ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 151. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 6 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (13 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 152. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 6 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (7dc+ 6ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 153. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 5 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (11 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 154. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 5 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (6dc+ 5ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 155. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 4 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (9 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 156. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 4 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (5dc+ 4ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 157. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 3 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (7 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 158. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 3 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (4dc+ 3ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 159. Ch2, *1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc* 2 times, 1dc3tog. Turn. (5 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 160. Ch4, *skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1* 2 times, 1dc in last sp. Turn (3dc+ 2ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 161. Ch2, 1dc in next sp, 1dc in next dc, 1dc3tog. Turn. (3 dc + 1dc3tog)
Row 162. Ch4, skip 1dc, 1dc in next dc, ch1, 1dc in last sp. Turn (2dc+ 1ch1-sp+ch4-sp)
Row 163. Ch2, 1dc3tog. Fasten off. Weave yarn tails in.

Congratulations! The body of your shawlette is now finished!

Border with petals

You make a border on the side of shawlette with increases and decreases. With C3.

On wrong side insert the hook in the same ch where 3dc of rnd 1 were made, pull yarn up and make ch1.

Row 1. *ch4, 1sc in next sp* repeat till you come to another end of shawlette (I got 82 ch4-sps). Make the last sc of this row in last dc3tog. Turn.

Row 2. ch1. *(1hdc, 3dc, 1hdc) in next ch4-sp, 1 sl st in next sc* repeat till you come to another end of shawlette. Make the last sl st in the same ch where you attached the yarn (I got 82 petals). Fasten off. Weave yarn tails in.

Ta-dah! You are all done!! And I really hope you like your new Windy Shawlette. Please-please, share the picture with me! You can, for example, do it in my Ravelry group HERE.

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