Fade To Light Jacket MAL: Part 5. Front bands and collar



Hello and welcome to the final Part 5 (yay!!) of the Fade to Light Jacket make-a-long. Today we will add front bands and collar, and you can choose between two options: with buttons or with clasps. If you missed previous parts, please check them here: reveal, sizing and gauge, short rows (Part 1), raglan increases (Part 2), sleeves (Part 3) and lower body with mosaic pattern (Part 4).

 
Complete Fade to Light Jacket pattern in one print-friendly pdf file is available for purchase HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures.
 
Front bands will frame your jacket nicely and collar will help to fix bumps at the neck opening left from the short rows. 
 
On one hand, adding bands to crochet garments is the easiest part, as instructions are very simple and straightforward. But on the other hand, sometimes it might be tricky to work along the edges evenly. 
 
You can either add too many stitches, and the bands will be wavy. Or if make fewer stitches than needed, the bands will pull and will not look neat. 
 
As always, I have recorded a very detailed video showing every step for both versions of the bands. I am explaining the system on putting stitches evenly along the edges. And I also show how you can adjust the size of the buttonholes in case you wish to add bigger or smaller buttons. Hope, this video will be helpful!

 
DUTCH translation is available HERE. Translated by Carmen Jorissen of New Leaf Designs
 

INSTRUCTIONS

  

Copyright! An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2020. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

 

BANDS AND COLLAR

 

Option 1 (with button holes) 

Buttonhole band 

Turn work a quarter and continue on RS along the edge of right front. 

Row 1 – RS: Work with sc evenly along the front’s edge from bottom up to neck opening, turn. 


Row 2 – WS: Ch1, 1sc in each st to end, turn. 

On next row work buttonholes. Place one removable marker approximately 0.5 cm/ 0.25in from neck opening, place another removable marker approximately 3 cm/1.25in from lower edge, place 4 additional markers evenly spaced between them. 

Row 3 – RS (buttonhole row): Ch1, [1sc in each st to one st left to m, remove m, ch2, sk 2 sts] to last m, remove m, 1sc to each st to end, turn. 


Row 4 – WS: Ch1, 1sc in each st across making 2sc in each ch2-sp, turn. Row 5 – RS: Ch1, 1sc in each st across, fasten off. 

Button band 

Row 1 – RS: With RS facing you, attach Yarn B with ss in upper corner of left front, ch1 (not a st) and work with sc evenly on RS along the left front edge down to the bottom in the same way as for buttonhole band, turn. Make sure you have the same number of sts as on the buttonhole band. 

Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in each st across, turn. 

Repeat Row 2 – two more times, don’t fasten off and proceed to collar. 

Collar 

Row 1 – WS: Ch1, work with evenly spaced sc across the top of each band and neck opening, turn – stitch count should be an odd number. 

Row 2: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc] to end, turn. 

Row 3: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn. Repeat Row 3 until desired collar’s height, fasten off. 

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Option 2 (bands with clasps) 

TIP: The bands should not pull or be too loose. If anything like this happens, please, change to a smaller or bigger hook as required. 

Row 1 – RS: Turn a quarter and continue working on RS along the edge of right front. [ch1, sk next row, 1sc in next row] rep along front’s edge up to neck opening working (1sc, ch2, 1sc) in the corner, pm in last ch2-sp, turn a quarter and continue along neck opening: 

[ch1, sk next st, 1sc in next st] rep along neck opening making (1sc, ch2, 1sc) into the corner, pm in last ch2-sp, turn a quarter and continue along next front’s edge (make sure you work exactly the same number of sc and ch1-sps as for the other front): 

ch1, sk next row, 1sc in next row] rep along front’s edge down to the bottom, turn. 


Row 2 – WS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, *[ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] until marked ch2-sp, (1sc, ch2, 1sc) into ch2-sp, 1sc in next st; rep from * once more, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] to end, turn. 

Row 3 – RS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, *[ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] until one st before ch2-sp, ch1, sk 1 st, (1sc, ch2, 1sc) into ch2-sp, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc in next st; rep from * once more, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] to end, turn. 

Repeat Rows 2-3 until desired width of the bands. Fasten off. Proceed to Collar if you would like to add height. 

Collar 

Row 1 – RS: With RS facing you, attach Yarn B with ss in corner ch2-sp of neck opening, ch1, 1sc in same sp, 1sc in next sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] across neck opening until next corner ch2-sp, 1sc in this sp, turn. 

Row 2 – WS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] until last st, 1sc in last st, turn. 

Repeat Row 2 until desired collar’s height. Fasten off. 

 ***********

Congratulations!!! Your Fade to Light Jacket is now finished! I hope you learned something new during this make-a-long, that you are not afraid of crochet garments anymore and that many more sweaters and cardigans will appear in your creative life!

Complete Fade to Light Jacket pattern in one print-friendly pdf file is available for purchase HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch).

Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.

Fade to Light Jacket MAL: Part 4. Lower body



 Hello and welcome to Part 3 of Fade to Light Jacket make-a-long. Today we will be making the sleeves. If you missed previous parts, please check them here: reveal, sizing and gauge, short rows (Part 1), raglan increases (Part 2) and sleeves (Part 3).


Complete Fade to Light Jacket pattern in one print-friendly pdf file is available for purchase HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures.  
 
This part is probably the shortest in terms of instructions. You have already been making Spike stitches on the sleeves. And mosaic pattern for the lower body uses the same group of stitches. So hopefully nothing new here.
 
Before you begin with lower body, please, make sure the stitch count after the yoke is multiple of 4 stitches + 3. (It means you should count all your stitches on the lower body, minus three from this number and then the rest should be dividable by four). This is very important to make the beginning and the end of your first row symmetrical. 
 
If your stitch count is not right, you should figure out how many stitches you should add – and make increases accordingly. I recommend frogging last two rows of the yoke and make increases on the first row of those two. 
 
I've recorded a video showing how to do mosaic pattern for the lower body. And in the very end you will see how it is worked in rounds in case you would like add a small cute detail for your cuff.

 
And here are written instructions. Hope you will have fun!  

DUTCH translation is available HERE. Translated by Carmen Jorissen of New Leaf Designs

***


INSTRUCTIONS

 

Copyright! An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2020. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

 

MOSAIC pattern 

NOTE: For two Whirls version continue alternating cakes at the end of Row 2. 

Row 1 – RS: With B. Ch1, 1sc in first st, 1SPsc, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, 1SPsc, 1sc] to end, turn. 

Row 2 – WS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp or SPsc, 1sc] to end (change back to A in last st), turn. 

Row 3 – RS: With A. Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, 1SPsc, 1sc] to last sp and sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc to end, turn. 

Row 4 – WS: Rep Row 2, change to B in last sc, turn. 

Repeat rows 1-4 until Whirl(s) is/are over, then continue with only Yarn B and repeat Row 2 alternating RS and WS until lower body measures approx. 35.5cm/14in from underarm. 

Finish with row on RS working (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in last st. Don’t fasten off and proceed to Bands and Collar (please choose one of two options). 

That was Part 4. See you next week! We will be adding front bands and collar. And (yay!!) our Fade to Light Jacket will be finished!

Complete Fade to Light Jacket pattern in one print-friendly pdf file is available for purchase HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch).

Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.

 

Fade to Light Jacket MAL: Part 3. Sleeves



Hello and welcome to Part 3 of Fade to Light Jacket make-a-long. Today we will be making the sleeves. If you missed previous parts, please check them here: reveal, sizing and gauge, short rows (Part 1) and raglan increases (Part 2).

Usually when we are making a top-down garment, after separation for body and sleeves we continue with the lower body. But for the Fade to Light Jacket we will leave the body aside for a while and will move to the sleeves now. 

The reason is we are using two Scheepjes Whirl Fine Art* cakes for the bigger sizes. Using one Whirl per sleeve will help create a long, smooth and gradient color change. 

I have a recorded new video explaining tips and tricks. 

 
Complete Fade to Light Jacket pattern in one print-friendly pdf file is available for purchase HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures.  
 
And here are written instructions. Hope you will have fun!  

DUTCH translation is available HERE. Translated by Carmen Jorissen of New Leaf Designs

***


INSTRUCTIONS

 Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2020. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

 

SLEEVES (both alike) 

Common Note for both options: Sleeves are worked back and forth, alternating RS and WS. Rounds are joined with ss in first st or sp. 

Option 1 – two Whirls 

Use one Whirl for each sleeve. With right side facing you, attach Yarn A with ss in approx. central ch of underarm already occupied with sc. 

Round 1 – RS: You will need to make decreases in the corners for a correct stitch count. Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), 1sc in same st as join, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to last sp, ch1, ss in first sc, turn – - (-, -, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 88, 96) sts for the sleeve 

Round 2 – WS: Ch1, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] around, ss in first sp, turn. Round 3 – RS: Ch1, [1sc in next st, ch1, sk sp] around, ss in first sc, turn. 

Repeat Rounds 2-3 until approx. - (-, -, 72, 80, 80, 88, 88, 96, 96) g left per Whirl. 

To shape the sleeve, make sc2tog over 2 sc (ch1-sp between them will be skipped) in line with underarm in every 12th or 14th round, depending on how wide you want your sleeves. Finish with round 2 on WS, turn. Stitch count should be multiple of four. 

 

Round 4 – RS: Ch1 (change to Yarn B, cut A), [1sc, 1SPsc, 1sc, ch1, sk sp] around, ss in first sc, turn.

Repeat rounds 2-3 until desired length of the sleeve. Continue to shape the sleeve if needed. Fasten off. Proceed to mosaic pattern of the lower body. 

Option 2 – one Whirl 

With right side facing you, attach Yarn B with ss in approx. central ch of underarm already occupied with sc. 

Round 1 – RS: You will need to make decreases in the corners for a correct stitch count. Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), 1sc in same st as join, 1SPsc, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, 1SPsc, 1sc] x 14 (15, 16, 17, -, -, -, -, -, -) times, ch1, ss in first sc, turn – 60 (64, 68, 72, -, -, -, --, -) sts for the sleeve. 

Round 2 – WS: Ch1, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] around, ss in first sp, turn. 

Round 3 – RS: Ch1, [1sc in next st, ch1, sk sp] around, ss in first sc, turn. 

Repeat Rounds 2-3 until desired length. To shape the sleeve, make sc2tog over 2 sc (ch1-sp between them will be skipped) in line with underarm in every 12th or 14th round, depending on how wide you want your sleeves. 

Fasten off. Proceed to mosaic pattern of the lower body. 

That was Part 3. See you next week!

You can purchase a complete pattern in one print-friendly pdf file HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures. 

Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.

 

Fade to Light Jacket MAL: Part 2. Raglan increases



Hello and welcome to Part 2 of the Fade to Light Jacket make-a-long. Today we will talk about raglan increases and will continue growing our yoke. In the very end of this part we will divide yoke for body and sleeves, and I will show you the ways how to adjust measurements for your own bust. If this is the first time you hear about Fade to Light Jacket MAL, please also check blog posts about reveal, gauge and short rows

DUTCH translation is available HERE. Translated by Carmen Jorissen of New Leaf Designs

As you already know, Fade to Light Jacket is a top-down garment. Last week we made short rows and this week we will continue “building” raglan lines. We have four raglan lines (two on front and two on the back) – they separate front and back from sleeves. 

Raglan increases consist of several sets, please, follow instructions for your own size carefully. You can either use stitch markers to stay on track with increases, or write everything you made down on paper. Or you can also use this handy tool. It’s called Row Counter Ring (by KnitPro company). You can find it in local Scheepjes shops, on Wool Warehouse* (UK), or Amazon*

In the video below I explain how to use it for Fade to Light Jacket, but I am sure it will be very helpful for all your future projects too. 

And just a reminder, complete Fade to Light Jacket pattern is available for purchase on HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures.

***


INSTRUCTIONS

 Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2020. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

 

INCREASES for raglan 

Note: If you are using two Whirls, continue alternating cakes after every two rows. The yarn will be changed on the last yarn over of the row to complete final st. There will be floats of yarn along one of the edges. 

INC SET 1 – 2 rows 

Row 1 – RS (inc for body and sleeves): Ch1, 1sc in first st, *[ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st; rep from * 3 more times, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn. 

Row 2 – WS (no inc): Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn. 

Repeat Rows 1-2: 2 (3, 5, 5, 5, 7, 5, 6, 6, 8) more times. 

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 55 (63, 71, 71, 75, 83, 79, 83, 83, 95) sts for back, 29 (33, 37, 37, 39, 43, 41, 43, 43, 49) sts for each front and 27 (31, 39, 41, 41, 49, 43, 47, 47, 57) sts for each sleeve. 

INC SET 2 – 4 rows 

Row 1 – RS (inc for body and sleeves): Ch1, 1sc in first st, *[ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st; rep from * 3 more times, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn. 

Rows 2-4 (no inc): Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn. 

Repeat Rows 1-4: 5 (5, 4, 4, 5, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6) more times. 

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 79 (87, 91, 91, 99, 103, 107, 111, 111, 123) sts for back, 41 (45, 47, 47, 51, 53, 55, 57, 57, 63) sts for each front and 51 (55, 59, 61, 65, 69, 71, 75, 75, 85) sts for each sleeve. 

INC SET 3 – 2 rows (for M, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X and 5X only!) 

Row 1 – RS (inc for front and back): 

Front: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp, 

Sleeve: 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until next rm, 

Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp, 

Sleeve: 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until next rm, 

Front: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn. 

Row 2 – WS (no inc): Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn. 

For 4X size ony! Rep INC SET 3 once more. 

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 79 (87, 91, 95, 99, 107, 111, 115, 119, 127) sts for back, 41 (45, 47, 49, 51, 55, 57, 59, 61, 65) sts for each front and 51 (55, 59, 61, 65, 69, 71, 75, 75, 85) sts for each sleeve. 

At this point yoke should measure approx. 21.5 (22.5: 22.5: 24.25: 25.25: 26.5: 29.25: 30.5: 31.5: 33.2) cm/ 8.5 (9: 9: 9.5: 10: 10.5: 11.5: 12: 12.4: 13) in. Depth of the yoke should be measured from mid sleeve down along the front’s edge (see schematics on page 9) 

SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES 

Separation row – RS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, *[ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to next rm, ch7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 13, 13), sk sp with rm, sk all sts for a sleeve and next sp with rm, 1sc in next st; rep from * once more, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn – 175 (191, 199, 211, 219, 235, 247, 255, 267, 283) sts for the lower body, including two underarm chains. 

Next row – WS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end (count every underarm ch as sp or st) making one increase on each front before underarm by working (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in same st – 179 (195, 203, 215, 223, 239, 251, 259, 271, 287) sts for the lower body. 

 

LOWER body 

Row 1 – RS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn. 

Row 2 – WS: Repeat Row 1 once more. 

That was Part 2. See you next week!

You can purchase a complete pattern in one print-friendly pdf file HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures. 

Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on FacebookPinterest and Instagram.

 

Fade to Light Jacket MAL. Part 1: short rows



Hello and welcome to Part 1 of the Fade to Light Jacket make-a-long. Today we will talk about choosing the right size and short rows. Before you start working on this jacket, please, make an accurate gauge swatch first. You can find all details about yarn amounts and gauge HERE.

 

There are two options to follow make-a-long. You can either join it for free here on my blog: every Friday new portion of instructions will be published online. Or you can purchase a complete pattern in one print-friendly pdf file HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures.

Below you will find complete information about the pattern, including material list, abbreviations and pattern notes. And today we will start making the yoke – with short rows.

I have recorded a video for you explaining how to choose correct size for yourself and how to work short rows in crochet: both in theory and practice.


Hope you will have fun!

DUTCH translation is available HERE. Translated by Carmen Jorissen of New Leaf Designs

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Materials:


Yarn A: Scheepjes Whirl Fine Art (50% Superfine Merino, 25% Micro fibre, 25% Acrylic; 220g/460 m/503 yards)
Yarn B: Scheepjes Merino Soft (50% Superfine Merino, 25% Micro fibre, 25% Acrylic; 50g/105m/115 yards)

Note: depending on your gauge and crochet style you might need more yarn! For yarn amounts see Yarn Choice section

4.5mm crochet hook
Yarn needle to weave in tails, stitch markers or waste yarn, blocking tools

Find all yarn in your local Scheepjes shop, or purchase it online via international retailers:

Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (UK, please check shipping guidelines before placing your order, as there might be limitations due to COVID situation)
Taemombo (US and Canada)

 

Sizes:


XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Finished bust circumference:
91.5 (99.5: 103.5: 109.5: 113.5: 121.5: 127.5: 131.5: 137.5: 145.5) cm
36 (39: 40.7: 43: 44.7: 47.8: 50.2: 51.8: 54: 57.3) in

Abbreviations (US crochet terms)


beg beginning
BOR beginning of the row/round
ch chain stitch
corr corresponding
inc increase
sc single crochet
sk skip
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
yo yarn over the hook
pm place marker
prev previous
rm raglan marker
RS right side
WS wrong side

Special Stitches


SPsc (spike single crochet stitch): insert hook under ch1-sp from 2 rows below, yo, draw up a loop to the height of the current st, yo, pull through 2 loops.
(…) several stitches inside (…) made in one st

Pattern repeats:


[…] repeat instruction inside […] as many times as indicated in the pattern.
*…; rep instruction after * as many times as indicated in the pattern.

Gauge:


20 sts and 18 rows to 10 x 10cm (4 x 4in) using 4.5mm hook – slightly blocked.

Pattern for gauge (every sc and every ch1-sp counts as a stitch):

Row 1. Ch30, 1sc in second ch from hook, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] to end, turn – 29 sts
Row 2. Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn.
Rows 3-25. Repeat Row 2.

Pattern notes:


Fade to Light Jacket is designed to fit with 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) of positive ease at the bust and 1.25-2 in (3-5 cm) of positive ease at the upper arm. The jacket is worked seamlessly from top down. First some short rows are worked back and forth to raise the back neck. Then the yoke with raglan increases is worked in rows to separation for body and sleeves. The lower body with mosaic pattern is worked in rows to bottom. Sleeves are worked top down. The length of the body and sleeves is easily adjustable.
Whirl Fine Art yarn

Yarn choice


Fade to Light Jacket pattern was designed especially for Scheepjes Whirl Fine Art and Merino Soft yarns. Use one Whirl cake for size XXS-S, choose between one or two Whirl cakes for size M, and two Whirls are recommended for sizes L-5X. The rest of the yarn is Merino Soft.

Alternatively, Fade to Light Jacket can be worked with Scheepjes Merino Soft Brush yarn instead of Whirl Fine Art: one Whirl is replaced with 5 skeins of Merino Brush (and two Whirls are replaced with 9 skeins of Merino Brush accordingly).

The yoke begins with Whirl and solid shade of Merino Soft is added later for the sleeves and mosaic lower body. You can either start working with light or dark tail of Whirl.

You will need 500 (550, 600, 620, 680, 740, 790, 840, 890, 940)g of yarn, or 1 (1, 1, 1(2), 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) Whirl Fine Art cakes and 6 (7, 8, 8(4), 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) balls of Merino Soft


INSTRUCTIONS


Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2020. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!


YOKE


To begin: With Yarn A. Ch92 (100: 100: 104: 112: 112: 124: 124: 124: 136) loosely.

Set up Row (WS):


Front: sc in second ch from hook, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] x9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12, 13) times, ch1 (pm), sk next ch,

Sleeve: 1sc in next ch, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] x4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) times,

Back: ch1 (pm), sk next ch, 1sc in next ch, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] 15 (17, 17, 17, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 23) times, ch1 (pm), sk next ch,

Sleeve: 1sc in next ch, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] x4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) times,

Front: ch1 (pm), sk next ch, 1sc in next ch, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] to end, turn.

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 31 (35, 35, 35, 39, 39, 43, 43, 43, 47) sts for back, 19 (21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25, 27) sts for each front and 9 (9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15) sts for each sleeve.
Set up row

SHORT ROWS (shaping back)


Common Note: Move raglan markers (rm) up to corr sps on next rows as you progress. For easy counting on short rows, mark same st as ss on the edge of every short row – use different color than raglan marker.

!IMPORTANT! If you are using two Whirls you’ll need to start alternating them on Short row 1 for a long gradient color change – find instructions in the pattern. Make sure that floats of yarn stay on WS.

TIP: Because fabric is reversible, it might be helpful to mark RS with waste yarn.

Short row 1 (inc for back and sleeves)


Back: RS. Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), 1sc in first sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] x22 (24, 24, 25, 27, 27, 30, 30, 30, 33) times, ch1 (mark as BOR – use different color! Change to another Whirl for two Whirls option), sk next sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk next sp,

Sleeve, Back, Sleeve: (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on WS side, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR (move rm to corr sp), ch1 (pm for BOR, change to another Whirl for 2 Whirl option), 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] until last sp and sc left before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on RS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR.

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 35 (39, 39, 39, 43, 43, 47, 47, 47, 51) sts for back, 19 (21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25, 27) sts for each front and 11 (11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 17) sts for each sleeve.
Use marker of a different color for BOR (beginning of the row)
Move raglan markers to corresponding spaces as you progress
Increases before and after raglan marker

Short row 2 (inc for back and front only!)


Back: ch1 (change to another Whirl for two Whirls option, pm for BOR), sk sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp,

Sleeve: 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until next rm making sc in same st as ss when you reach it,

Front, Sleeve, Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on WS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR, ch1 (pm for BOR), sk sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk next sp,

Sleeve: 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until next rm making sc in same st as ss when you reach it,

Front, Sleeve, Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on RS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR .

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 39 (43, 43, 43, 47, 47, 51, 51, 51, 55) sts for back, 21 (23, 23, 23, 25, 25, 27, 27, 27, 29) sts for each front and 11 (11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 17) sts for each sleeve.
Change to another Whirl for two Whirls option

Work into the same stitch as slip stitch (when you reach it)

Short row 3 (inc for body and sleeves)


Back: ch1 (change to another Whirl for two Whirl option, pm for BOR), sk sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp,

Sleeve: (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st,

Front, Sleeve, Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times making sc in same st as ss when you reach it, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on WS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR, ch1 (pm for BOR), sk sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk next sp,

Sleeve: (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st,

Front, Sleeve, Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times making sc in same st as ss when you reach it, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on RS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] across rest of sts all the way to the left front making sc in same st as ss when you reach them.

Remove BOR and short rows markers; raglan markers should stay in their place.

Next row - WS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] across making sc in same st as ss when you reach them and moving rm to corr sps.

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 43 (47, 47, 47, 51, 51, 55, 55, 55, 59) sts for back, 23 (25, 25, 25, 27, 27, 29, 29, 29, 31) sts for each front and 15 (15, 15, 17, 17, 17, 19, 19, 19, 21) sts for each sleeve.

That's everything for today. See you next week, and we will continue with raglan increases.
 
You can purchase a complete pattern in one print-friendly pdf file HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures. 

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