HULDRA: Build Your Own Sweater



A year ago I suddenly felt very strong trying my hand in designing crochet garments. I was (and still am) under impression of beautiful round yoked knitting sweaters. I loved the look of intricate colourworks. And I thought it would be so great to create something similar in crochet. Nearly a year ago I got a plan to build up a small collection of seamless top-down crochet sweaters. And Esja sweater was my first design. I am so thankful for your support and trust, and I am blown away with how many Esja’s have popped up in my social media feed. And today I would like to introduce HULDRA!
HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo by Vitali Frozen

Add HULDRA sweater to your Ravelry Queue

HULDRA Sweater pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE with 30% discount through Monday, February 25th, 2019. The discount was already applied to price and no codes are needed. After this date the pattern will be listed at a regular price.

Huldra is a top-down seamless sweater with easily adjusted length of the body and sleeves. It was designed as an oversized garment with 10-20cm/4-8” positive ease on the body and fitted sleeves.

HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo by Vitali Frozen

Sleeves and the body are finished with cuffs and hem which can be omitted if you would like to keep your sweater simple and with main accent on the textured yoke.
HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo by Vitali Frozen

Round yoke is crocheted with textured stitches. You will only work with one color at a time, and the technique is not tricky at all. In fact, only usual crochet stitches are used in Huldra sweater. And a heavy photo-tutorial in the end of the pattern will help you to see placement of all stitches.

Huldra Sweater comes in eight (8!) sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X) with finished bust circumference: 92.5 (101, 109.5, 115.5, 122, 136.8, 149.5, 162) cm/ 36.4 (39.8, 43, 45.5, 48, 54, 58.8, 63.8) in.
Photo by Vitali Frozen

To choose the right size you should measure your actual bust, add 10-20cm/4-8” (depending on how roomy you want your sweater to be) and choose closest number from listed above.

I made two samples for myself. One of them is with long sleeves and wide cuffs. I chose Our Tribe yarn by Scheepjes in three colors: silver grey, dark grey and black (you can always stay with two colors to keep the patterning less busy). In the pictures below you can see this sweater on me. I normally wear S size, but this sweater is M, and I have lots of space in the lower body.

Approx. yarn amounts for Our Tribe yarn are:

~ Yarn A: Motivate 983 x 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) balls
~ Yarn B: Trust 982 x 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls
~ Yarn C: Blackberry Black 881 x 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5) balls

HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo by Vitali Frozen

And for my second sleeveless top (LOVE it so much) I picked Ombre Whirl 562 Petrol Please Me and combined it with Whirlette 865 Chewy. Isn’t this gradient lovely?!
HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo by Vitali Frozen

This top is S size and I have just a little bit of positive ease. I only needed two cakes (one Whirl and one Whirlette) for mine, but for larger sizes you’ll obviously need more yarn.

Our Tribe, Whirl and Whirlettes are available for purchase in your local Scheepjes stores, or via online retailers:

Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (CA&US), Knotty House* (CA)
HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo by Vitali Frozen

For a sleeveless "whirly" version of Huldra yarn estimates are:

1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) cakes of same Whirl, and
1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) cakes of same Whirlette.

Please, note (!!!), that these are just estimates, and if your crochet style and gauge differ, you might need more yarn (for example, you might need 2 Whirlettes for size L).

Whirlette was used as Yarn A. And for Yarns B and C I used different tails (outside and inside) of the same Whirl.
HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo by Vitali Frozen

So the yoke was started with Whirlette, then contrasting Whirl was added as Yarn B, and then opposite tail of Whirl was used as Yarn C. If you need 2 cakes of Whirl, you’ll be using them both at the same time, changing between cakes on every round – for one long gradient. And then Whirlette will be used again for the hem.
HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo by Vitali Frozen

HULDRA sweater pattern was tested in all sizes, and I am sending many thanks to lovely ladies who helped me with polishing instructions. Here are just several examples (check all Huldra projects HERE):
HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

1. Loele Van Den Bergh combined dark Whirlette with Our Tribe yarn and made a playful sweater for her beautiful daughter in law
2. Sandra Veneman chose tone-on-tone colors for her lovely Huldra
3. Sarah Fabbri was "whirling"
4. Esther Schippers decided for ¾ sleeves and longer body to turn her sweater into a tunic
5. Elizabeth Kalka made a summer top with Whirlettes for herself.
HULDRA Sweater_crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
Photo by Vitali Frozen

This blog post contains lots of pictures, and I am very excited about them. My friend Vitali Frozen helped me with photography. And I would like to use this opportunity to thank him. Vitali specializes in wedding and portrait photography, he is currently living in Poland and is travelling around Europe. If you are looking for a photographer, I can highly recommend him. He is professional with a perfect eye, very modest, friendly and easy-going. You can take a peek at his work HERE.

And just a reminding, that HULDRA Sweater pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE with 30% discount through Monday, February 25th, 2019. The discount was already applied to price and no codes are needed. After this date the pattern will be listed at a regular price.

I am super excited about Huldra, and I hope you like it, too! :)

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Chocolate Bar Headband: free crochet pattern



Headbands are nice small accessories saving us from cold and wind in any weather. They are fast to make and can become a wonderful last minute gift. Chocolate Bar Headband crochet pattern was designed exclusively for Happily Hooked magazine. And now, when copyright came back to me, it is released as a stand-alone pattern. Hope you’ll enjoy!

Chocolate Bar Headband_free crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

 

Materials


Scheepjes Merino Soft and Merino Soft Brush 50g (50% Wool Superwash Merino, 25% Microfiber, 25% Acrylic):

Yarn A Merino Soft 605 Hogarth x 1 skein
Yarn B Merino Soft Brush 257 Van der Leck x 1 skein

4.5mm crochet hook
Yarn needle to weave in tails

Merino Soft and Merino Soft Brush yarns are available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers:

WoolWarehouse*, Deramores*, Black Sheep Wools* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
KnottyHouse* (Canada)

Chocolate Bar Headband_free crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com
My beautiful friends Xenia and Barry as models :)

Measurements

Approx. 56cm x 11cm (22” x 4.3”)

Gauge

20 sts x 22 rows = 10 x 10cm/4 x 4” with sc and 4.5mm hook


Abbreviations (US crochet terms)


beg beginning
ch chain stitch
dc (double crochet): yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.
RS right side
sc (single crochet): insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook.
st(s) stitch(es)
WS wrong side
yo yarn over
*…….; rep from * to ….. work the instructions after * and then repeat that section as instructed
Chocolate Bar Headband_free crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Pattern Notes:

  • Headband is worked in rows in back and forth. Change to new color on the last yarn over in the end of the row, when there are 2 loops on the hook. Colors are changed after every two rows unless otherwise stated in the pattern. Don’t cut yarn but carry it along the edge to next rows.
  • Ch1 in the beg of each row doesn’t count as a st.

INSTRUCTIONS


Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry.

An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video-tutorials are not allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
 
With Yarn A ch24.

Row 1 (WS): sc in second ch from the hook, sc in each ch to end (change to B in final st), turn – 23 sc
Chocolate Bar Headband_free crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Row 2 (RS): With Yarn B, ch1, sc in first st, *ch1, skip next st, sc in next; repeat from * to end, turn – 12 sc and 11 ch-1 spaces

Row 3: Continue with Yarn B, ch1, sc in first st, *ch1, skip next ch-1 space, sc in next st; repeat from * to end (change to Yarn A in final st), turn – 12 sc and 11 ch-1 spaces
Chocolate Bar Headband_free crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Row 4: With Yarn A, ch1, sc in first st, *dc in skipped st from 3 rows below (working in front of ch-1 spaces – here and throughout), skip ch-1 space behind dc, sc in next st; repeat from * to end, turn – 11 dc and 12 sc
Chocolate Bar Headband_free crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Row 5: Continue with Yarn A, ch1, sc in each st to end (change to Yarn B in final st), turn – 23 sts

Row 6: With Yarn B, ch1, sc in first 2 sts, *ch1, skip next st, sc in next; repeat from * to last st, sc in last, turn – 13 sc and 10 ch-1 sps

Row 7: Continue with Yarn B, ch1, sc in first 2 sts, *ch1, skip next ch-1 space, sc in next; repeat from * to last st, sc in last (change to Yarn A), turn – 13 sc and 10 ch-1 sps

Row 8: With Yarn A, ch1, sc in first 2 sts, *dc in skipped st from 3 rows below, skip ch-1 space, sc in next st; repeat from * to last sc, sc in last, turn – 19 dc and 13 sc

Row 9: Continue with Yarn A, ch1, sc in each st to end (change to Yarn B in final st), turn – 23 sts

Repeat rows 2-9 five more times (49 rows in total)

Repeat rows 2-3 once more (51 rows in total)

Division of the band

First half

Row 52: With Yarn A, ch1, sc in first st, *dc in skipped st from 3 rows below, skip ch-1 space behind dc, sc in next st; repeat from * 4 more times, turn – 5 dc and 6 sc

Row 53: Continue with Yarn A, ch1, sc in each st to end (change to B in final st), turn – 11 sts

Repeat Rows 6-9 once more – 11 sts

Repeat Rows 2-9 once more – 11 sts

Repeat rows 2-3 once more (16 rows in total). Fasten off and cut both yarns.
Chocolate Bar Headband_free crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Second half

With RS facing you attach Yarn A with ss in fist sc on Row 51 after first half.

Row 52: With Yarn A, ch1, sc in same st as join, *dc in skipped st from 3 rows below, skip ch-1 space behind dc, sc in next st; repeat from * 4 more times, turn – 5 dc and 6 sc

Row 53: Continue with Yarn A, ch1, sc in each st to end (change to Yarn B in final st), turn – 11 sts

Repeat Rows 6-9 once more – 11 sts

Repeat Rows 2-9 once more – 11 sts

Repeat rows 2-3 once more and change to Yarn A in final st, don’t fasten off! – 16 rows in total
Chocolate Bar Headband_free crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Putting both halves together

Flip first half over second one (use a sewing pin to hold them together) and crochet next row on the top of both half beginning on the second one:

With Yarn A, ch1, sc in fist st, *dc in skipped st from 3 rows below, skip ch-1 space behind dc, sc in next st; repeat from * 4 more times, 2sc in first st of the first half, *dc in skipped st from two rows below, skip ch-1 space behind dc, sc in next st; repeat from * to end, turn – 10 dc and 13 sc

Next row: Continue with Yarn A, ch1, sc in each st to end (change to Yarn B in final st), turn – 23 sts.

TIP: To adjust the length of the band make more or less rows on the next part. If you adjust the length, please, make sure the band is finished either with Row 4 or Row 8. This will help to make the seam invisible.

Repeat rows 6-9 once more – 23 sts

Repeat Rows 2-9 five times – 23 sts

Repeat Rows 2-4 once more, fasten off and cut both yarn leaving approx. 40cm tail of Yarn A.

Sew short sides of the headband using yarn tail and needle.
Chocolate Bar Headband_free crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com


Finishing

Work evenly with Yarn A and sc along both edges of the band. Insert the hook under the floats of yarn on the edge to hide them. To begin, attach Yarn A with ss under the flap, ch1, sc in same st as join and continue to crochet with sc until you come to flap again, fasten off. Repeat for another edge. Weave in all tails.
Chocolate Bar Headband_free crochet pattern by www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry.

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Living Lagom Shawl: FREE crochet pattern (US terms)



Living Lagom Shawl is about happy and balanced life. Slightly asymmetrical it combines chunky cables with lace parts. For additional softness and comfort. Enjoy!

 Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

 

Nederlands - vertaald door Carmen Jorissen (New Leaf Designs)

Norsk - Oversatt av Hilde Tindlund (Road Rash)

English - UK terms  

Français - Traduit par Nathalie Lourbier Des Bois

 
 

 Materials:

Scheepjes Namaste 100g/85m (50% Virgin Wool x 50% Acrylic):
614 Warrior x 5 skeins
7mm crochet hook
Tapestry needle to weave in tails

Namaste yarn is available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers:

WoolWarehouse*, Deramores*, Black Sheep Wools* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’sAtelier* (NL and Europe)
KnottyHouse* (Canada), Taemombo (US and Canada)


Gauge:

11 dc x 6 rows = 10cm/4” after blocking


Measurements:

Approx. 155cm x 70cm (61” x 27.5”)

Abbreviations (US crochet terms)

beg beginning
ch chain stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) spaces
RS right side
WS wrong side
yo yarn over
prev previous

Stitch Guide


dc (double crochet): yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.
BPdc (back post double crochet): yo, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.
FPdc (front post double crochet): yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice.
FPtr (front post treble crochet): yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 3 times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble crochet 2 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
FPtr3tog (front post treble crochet 3 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* three times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
sc (single crochet): insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook.
ss (slip stitch): insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull second loop through the first loop on hook.

INSTRUCTIONS


An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video-tutorials are not allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions and photo-tutorial HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Paid pdf also includes two bonus CHARTS!

Row 1 RS: Make magic ring, ch3 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), 3dc into ring, tighten ring, turn – 3 dc

Row 2 WS: Ch3, dc in first st, dc in next st, 3dc in last st, turn – 5 dc

Row 3: Ch3, dc in first st, FPdc around same st, FPdc around each of next 3 sts, dc in last st, turn – 6 sts

Row 4: Ch3, dc in first st, BPdc around each of next 5 sts, 2dc in last ch3-sp, turn – 8 sts

Row 5: Ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1-sp – here and throughout), dc in first st, skip next 3 sts of prev row, FPtr around each of next 3 sts, FPtr around each of 3 skipped sts, dc in last st, turn – 3 dc, 6 FPtr, 1 ch1-sp

Row 6: Ch3, dc in first st, BPdc around each of next 6 sts, dc in next st, ch1, (dc, ch1, dc) in third ch in the beg of prev row, turn – 4 dc, 6 BPdc, 2 ch1-sps

Row 7: Ch4, dc in first st, [ch1, skip next sp, dc in next st] twice, FPdc around each of next 6 sts, dc in last st, turn – 5 dc, 6 FPdc, 3 ch1-sps

Row 8: Ch3, dc in first st, BPdc around each of next 6 sts, dc in next st, ch3, skip next sp and st, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next st, (dc, ch1, dc) in third ch in the beg of prev row, turn – 4 dc, 6 BPdc, 1 sc, 2 ch3-sps, 1 ch1-sp

Row 9: Ch3, 2dc in first st, dc in next sp, dc in next st, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, skip 3 sts, FPtr around each of next 3 sts, FPtr around each of 3 skipped sts, dc in last st, turn – 8 dc, 6 FPtr, 3 ch1-sps

Row 10: Ch3, dc in first st, BPdc around each of next 6 sts, dc in next st, ch3, skip next sp and st, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next st and sp, dc in next st, BPdc around each of next 3 sts, 2dc in last sp, turn – 5 dc, 9 BPdc, 1 sc, 2 ch3-sps

Row 11: Ch4, dc in first st, FPdc around each of next 4 sts, dc in next st, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, FPdc around each of next 6 sts, dc in last st, turn – 7 dc, 10 FPdc, 4 ch1-sps

Row 12: Ch3, dc in first st, BPdc around each of next 6 sts, dc in next st, ch3, skip next sp and st, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next st and sp, dc in next st, BPdc around each of next 4 sts, dc in next st, ch1, (dc, ch1, dc) in third ch in the beg of prev row, turn – 6 dc, 10 BPdc, 1 sc, 2 ch3-sps, 2 ch1-sps

Row 13: Ch4, dc in first st, [ch1, skip sp, dc in next st] twice, skip 2 sts, FPtr around each of next 2 sts, FPtr around each of 2 skipped sts, dc in next st, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, skip 3 sts, FPtr around each of next 3 sts, FPtr around each of 3 skipped sts, dc in last st, turn – 9 dc, 10 FPtr, 6 ch1-sps

Row 14: Ch3, dc in first st, BPdc around each of next 6 sts, dc in next st, ch3, skip next sp and st, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next st and sp, dc in next st, BPdc around each of next 4 sts, dc in next st, ch3, skip next sp and st, sc in next sp, ch3, 3dc in third ch in the beg of prev row, turn – 7 dc, 10 BPtr, 2 sc, 4 ch3-sps

Pattern repeat

Row 15 RS: Ch4 (doesn’t count as a st here and to the end of pattern repeat), dc in first st, dc in each st until next ch3-sp, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, 4FPdc, dc in next st, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, 6FPdc, dc in last st, turn – 11 dc, 10 FPdc, 6 ch1-sps

Row 16 WS: Ch3, dc in first st, 6BPdc, dc in next st, ch3, skip next sp and st, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next st and sp, dc in next st, 4BPdc, dc in next st, ch3, skip next sp and st, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next st and sp, dc in next st, dc in each st to end, 2dc in last ch4-sp, turn – 9 dc, 10 BPdc, 2 sc, 4 ch3-sps

Row 17: Ch4, dc in first st, dc in each st until next ch3-sp, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, skip 2 sts, FPtr around each of next 2 sts, FPtr around each of 2 skipped sts, dc in next st, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, skip 3 sts, FPtr around each of next 3 sts, FPtr around each of 3 skipped sts, dc in last st, turn – 13 dc, 10 FPtr, 6 ch1-sps

Row 18: Ch3, dc in first st, 6BPdc, dc in next st, ch3, skip next sp and st, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next st and sp, dc in next st, 4BPdc, dc in next st, ch3, skip next sp and st, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next st and sp, dc in next st, dc in each st to end, 2dc in last ch4-sp, turn – 11 dc, 10 BPdc, 2 sc, 4 ch3-sps

End of Pattern Repeat

Rows 19-66: Repeat rows 15-18 12 more times (you’ll get 16 twists in total of large cable) – 59 dc, 10 BPdc, 2 sc, 4 ch3-sps.

Row 67 RS: Ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1-sp – here and to the end of the pattern), dc in first st, [ch1, skip next st, dc in next st] until next ch3-sp, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, 4FPdc, dc in next st, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, 6FPdc, dc in last st, turn – 37 dc, 10 FPdc, 34 ch1-sps

Row 68 WS: Ch3, dc in first st, 6BPdc, dc in next st, ch3, skip next sp and st, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next st and sp, dc in next st, 4BPdc, dc in next st, [ch3, skip next sp and st, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next st and sp, dc in next st] until last sp, ch1, (dc, ch1, dc) in third ch in the beg of prev row, turn – 16 dc, 10 BPdc, 11 sc, 22 ch3-sps, 2 ch1-sps

Row 69: Ch4, dc in first st, [ch1, skip sp, dc in next st] twice, *[ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st* until first BPdc, skip 2 sts, FPtr around each of next 2 sts, FPtr around each of 2 skipped sts, dc in next st, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, skip 3 sts, FPtr around each of next 3 sts, FPtr around each of 3 skipped sts, dc in last st, turn – 39 dc, 10 FPtr, 36 ch1-sps

Row 70: As Row 68 making last dc of repeat in third ch in the beg of prev row, ch1, dc in same ch, turn – 16 dc, 10 BPdc, 12 sc, 24 ch3-sps, 1 ch1-sp

Row 71: Ch4, dc first st, ch1, skip sp, dc in next st, *[ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st* until first BPdc, 4FPdc, dc in next st, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, 6FPdc, dc in last st, turn – 41 dc, 10 FPdc, 38 ch1-sps

Row 72: As Row 68 making repeat until 2 dc and 2 ch1-sps left, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1, (dc, ch1, dc) in third ch in the beg of prev row, turn – 18 dc, 10 BPdc, 12 sc, 24 ch3-sps, 3 ch1-sps

Row 73: Ch4, dc in first st, [ch1, skip sp, dc in next st] x3, *[ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st* until first BPdc, skip 2 sts, FPtr around each of next 2 sts, FPtr around each of 2 skipped sts, dc in next st, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, skip 3 sts, FPtr around each of next 3 sts, FPtr around each of 3 skipped sts, dc in last st, turn – 43 dc, 10 FPtr, 40 ch1-sps

Row 74: As Row 68 - 18 dc, 10 BPdc, 13 sc, 26 ch3-sps, 2 ch1-sps

Row 75: Ch4, dc in first st, [ch1, skip sp, dc in next st] twice, *[ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st* until first BPdc, 4FPdc, dc in next st, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, 6FPdc, dc in last st, turn – 45 dc, 10 FPdc, 42 ch1-sps

Row 76: As Row 68 making last dc of repeat in third ch in the beg of prev row, ch1, dc in same ch, turn – 18 dc, 10 BPdc, 14 sc, 28 ch3-sps, 1 ch1-sp

Row 77: Ch4, dc first st, ch1, skip sp, dc in next st, *[ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st* until first BPdc, skip 2 sts, FPtr around each of next 2 sts, FPtr around each of 2 skipped sts, dc in next st, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st, skip 3 sts, FPtr around each of next 3 sts, FPtr around each of 3 skipped sts, dc in last st, turn – 47 dc, 10 FPtr, 44 ch1-sps

Row 78: As Row 72 – 20 dc, 10 BPdc, 14 sc, 28 ch3-sps, 3 ch1-sps

Row 79: Ch4, dc in first st, [ch1, skip sp, dc in next st] x3, *[ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next st* until first BPdc, ch1, [FPtr2tog over next 2 sts] twice, ch1, dc in next dc, [ch1, dc in next sp] twice, ch1, dc in next dc, ch2, [FPtr3tog over next 3 sts] twice, ch2, ss in last st.
Fasten off. Block shawl to measurements.

Congratulations! Your Living Lagom shawl is now finished!


Purchase ads free ready-to-print pdf with full written instructions, photo-tutorial and CHARTS  HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

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