Rozeta CAL: Week 10



Hello and welcome to Part 10 of the Rozeta CAL. We are almost finishing this week – can you believe that?! Our Rozeta window will be completed and all we need is just to frame it with the final border. And it means next week will be the last one… Today we continue building bottom tapestry panel. We will work in back and forth as on previous part. A few more popcorns will be added, and the arches will be shaped at the bottom.

If you are using the kit, you might have noticed that some of the colors are almost finished. If your gauge was on spot throughout the CAL and if you took your time to carefully measure your blanket after every part and if you weight the yarn after every part – then you could compare your usage of yarn with numbers given in the pattern.

But if you haven’t done anything of mentioned above, you might start running out of the colors on this part already. Yarn B might be the tightest in both Our Tribe and Colour Crafter kits. This color will be only used this week for the bottom tapestry and we will not need it for the border. You’ll need approx. 13g of Yarn B in Our Tribe and 11g in Colour Crafter. But if you don’t have enough yarn already, don’t worry!! You can substitute it with Yarn F which you should still have plenty of!

Bottom tapestry panel (and especially final stained glass border which we will be making next week) is not strict with placement of colors. So if you feel like you are running out of some of them, you can play around and replace the colors to your taste.

If you feel like you are running out of the main color (Yarn A), you can simply omit several rows at the bottom of the tapestry panel to make it shorter, and use different colors for the final border.

But again, if your gauge was correct and if you used approximately the same amount of yarn for every part as noted in the pattern – you should not run out of yarn in any color by now. The yardages for the Rozeta kits were calculated based on the yarn usage from all testers (and we had lots of them). And the yarn usage given in the pattern is the maximum what testers used.

I hope I calmed you down, and now we can move on to the instructions! Written instructions for Week 8 are available on Scheepjes website HERE. If this is the first time you hear about Rozeta, please check General Information HERE and a photo-tutorial for Special Stitches and Techniques HERE.

And don’t forget to check videos by Esther of It’s All in A Nutshell: UK right-handed, UK left-handed, NL right-handed, NL left-handed.


PHOTO-TUTORIAL


Row 22. Starting with this row we will be building “branches with leaves” inside the arches. On this row make FPtr’s (US terms here and throughout) around the popcorns below. And don’t forget to skip one stitch behind every FPtr.

Row 24. The popcorns on this row are made around single crochet stitches from 2 rows below. Esther made them a bit differently in the video (she is making them around dc from previous row). Either way will work well, and the exact placement of popcorns should not give a significant difference in the final look. I just felt like it is easier to find fourth sc on both sides of FPtr below. Please, change color after every popcorn (in ch1 on top of it), and after FPtr. And don’t forget to skip the stitches.

After this row we will cut Yarn C for Colour Crafter and will be using only Yarn B for both versions for the next rows.


Row 25. Simple row with new color for Colour Crafter. If you don’t have enough of Yarn B, you can switch to Yarn F at this point.
 

Row 26. FPtr on this row are made around FPtr below. Skip one stitch behind every FPtr.

Row 28. Make popcorns in the same way as on Row 24.

Row 30. Repeat of Row 26. Cut Yarn B for both versions at the end of this row.

Row 31. On this and all next rows we will use only Yarn A and Yarn F.

Row 32. Repeat of Row 24 but with Yarn F.

Row 36.

Row 37. On this and all next rows we will be making increases and decreases to shape the bottom of the arches.
 
Row 38.

Rows 39-43. Continue to work as per pattern shaping the bottom of the arches.

Congratulations!! Part 10 of the Rozeta CAL is completed! See you next week!

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Rozeta CAL: Week 9



Hello and welcome to week 9 of the Rozeta CAL. If you read this it means you survived the corners, and we can move forward to the bottom panel with arches. I am often asked why I decided to add this panel only on one side of the blanket to make it asymmetrical. As you probably remember, Rozeta was inspired by the gothic church windows. And bottom panel seemed ideal to recreate the same effect. It took me at least two months to figure out the stitch pattern for this part. I had many sleepless nights and made countless swatches. Until finally was decided to come back to tapestry technique again.

The bottom panel consists of two parts and we will be making it during two weeks. I hope it will take you less time than the corners and long rounds on the mandala’s edge. And I also hope it will give you extra time to catch up with the CAL if you are a bit behind. Though, it’s not a race of course, and you should not keep up with the same pace at any point.

As already mentioned, today we will be doing tapestry crochet again. But we will work in rows and not in rounds. At the end of every row you will turn your work – so we will be alternating right and wrong side all the time.

!!!IMPORTANT!!!


There is one very important moment I would like to draw your attention to. We will carry two yarns across the rows, in the same way as we did for the central mandala. BUT. The very beginning and the end of each row will be made in Yarn A (main color) only. It means that you will begin every row with just yarn A and will change to a contrast color as indicated in the pattern. You will grab contrast yarn up from previous row. And you will make sure the floats always stay on the wrong side. After the last repeat with contrast yarn is completed, you will drop it (ALWAYS leaving on the wrong side), and you’ll finish the row with Yarn A only.

Why do we need this trick? Tapestry crochet tends to shrink your piece. Especially if you are trying to pull inner yarn (please, DON’T PULL it while working on the bottom panel). And because Rozeta blanket consists of several different shapes (tapestry circle, overlay circle, corners) we need the bottom panel to be the same width as your current square. So it must not shrink. And if we make the edges with just Yarn A, we’ll have a narrow section on each side of the panel without inner yarn. And it will allow us to stretch the bottom panel a little bit, if needed for blocking.

Another important thing I would like to tell you is that the inner yarn WILL be SEEN through the stitches throughout. Mainly because we work in back and forth. So please don’t try to do anything extra to hide it. Scroll down the photo-tutorial below and you will see, that my inner yarn is not hidden.

This is all for now :) Let’s come back to Rozeta. Written instructions for Week 8 are available on Scheepjes website HERE. If this is the first time you hear about Rozeta, please check General Information HERE and a photo-tutorial for Special Stitches and Techniques HERE.

And don’t forget to check videos by Esther of It’s All in A Nutshell: UK right-handed, UK left-handed, NL right-handed, NL left-handed.


PHOTO-TUTORIAL


Row 1. We begin on the wrong side. The yarn is attached in any ch2-sp in the corner. No matter which corner you choose. Begin with just yarn A, change to contrast yarn as indicated in the pattern, continue with both yarns across. After last repeat drop the contrast yarn in front of work (on the wrong side), and finish the row with just Yarn A.

Row 2. This and next even rows don’t give you exact instructions. You will be working with just sc stitches (US terms here and throughout) changing the yarn as per previous row. Again, begin this row with Yarn A, change to contrast yarn on the last yarn over before the next stitch of same color (grab contrast yarn up behind your work), continue with both yarns across until you finish last repeat with contrast yarn, then drop it behind work (on the wrong side) and finish the row with just Yarn A.

Row 3. Nothing unusual happens here. Just follow written instructions grabbing up and dropping contrast yarn as needed.

Row 5. New color change appears on this row.

Row 7. On this row you will get waves on the edge because of increases and decreases.

Row 9. On previous rows you were making dc3tog’s, and now we change to dc2tog’s. Just something to remember :) I made a mistake on this row myself and had to frog.

Next rows are just the same as the previous ones. Nothing special or difficult.

 Row 15.

Row 17.

Row 20. This row is very special as we will be adding overlay popcorns. They will be made in a modified way – same as you made bobbles on the overlay round border. Please, note that all modified popcorns are made with tr stitches, so they are longer than the ones we made in the corners. After completing the popcorn change back to Yarn A on next ch1, skip one stitch behind the popcorn and continue to carry both yarns across the row.

Row 21. Same as Row 19. Please, refer to the picture of how I insert the hook into the popcorns. All ch1 on the top of popcorns should be skipped.


Congratulations! We are done through the half of the bottom tapestry panel. One more week to go and we can jump to the final border. Can’t wait!!

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Baby Bear of Furry Tales: free crochet pattern



My designing journey began 5 years ago with a small crochet bear. I made one hoping to sell it at the local craft market. And it was sold in no time. Later Fredrik, a good friend of mine from Sweden, ordered another bear from me for his friend’s baby. He was hoping to give me the push in designing. And it worked! I made quite a few little bears since then. And I am always very sentimental about them. So when Scheepjes asked me to design “someone soft” for their new yarn release, I didn’t hesitate for a moment. A baby bear it was meant to be. A Baby Bear of Furry Tales. And this pattern is released on my blog today. Hope you’ll enjoy!


About Scheepjes Furry Tales yarn


Furry Tales is a fluffy, faux-fur yarn perfect for creating the snuggliest and cuddliest of soft toys and items for children to be enjoyed during story time. Available in a selection of vibrant monotones, magical space-dyed colourways and natural shades with contrasting white tips whose names are inspired by fairy tales, this yarn can create everything from the most lifelike toy bears to quirky, colourful critters. Its tactile quality and comforting touch will be sure to draw the attention of your little ones.

Furry Tales is a soft and durable yarn that pairs perfectly with many Scheepjes yarns, for example,
Stone Washed and Catona. It can be used to create a variety of stuffed toys for children to enjoy
at home or to be used as props by teachers in the classroom during story time, accessories for
infants like cuddle blankets, or faux-fur trims on garments and homewares.

Specifications: 100% Polyester, 100g / 57m, Needle/Hook Size 9mm, Super Bulky Weight, Sold as 100g balls.

Disclosure: this post contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase yarn via any of links below, I might be compensated with a tiny amount while you will not pay anything extra. Thank you for supporting my blog!
 
You can find Furry Tales in local Scheepjes shops and via international retailers:

Wool Warehouse* (UK with international shipping), Caro's Atelier* (NL and Europe).

**************************************************

Baby Bear of Furry Tales: FREE crochet pattern (ENGLISH - US terms)


NEDERLANDS 

Purchase a ready-to-print pdf with all instructions and photo-tutorial without advertisements HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Pdf is only available in English (US crochet terms).
Once apon a time there lived a baby bear...
Photo credit: Scheepjes

Materials:



Scheepjes Stone Washed* (831 Axinite x 1 ball)
Scheepjes Furry Tales* (973 Baby Bear x 3 balls)
3.5mm and 4mm crochet hook
A pair of safety eyes, leftovers of cotton yarn for the face embroidery, leftovers of yarn for the striped scarf, yarn needle to put the Baby Bear together.

Finished size: approx. 40cm
Gauge is not critical for this pattern.

Abbreviations (US terms)


approx. – approximate
ch – chain
rep – repeat
sc – single crochet
st – stitch
sc2tog – single crochet 2 together

INSTRUCTIONS


Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

HEAD


Round 1. With Stone Washed* and 3.5mm hook. Make magic ring, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 6sc in magic ring, tighten ring, don’t join the round – 6 sc

Continue to work in continuous spiral, don’t join the rounds. For an easy count, mark last stitch of every round and move the marker up to the next rounds as you progress.

Round 2. Skip ch1, 2sc in each st around – 12 sc

Round 3. [1sc, 2sc in next st] x6 – 18 sc
Round 4. [2sc, 2sc in next st] x6 – 24 sc
Round 5. [1sc, 2sc in next st, 2sc] x6 – 30 sc
Round 6. [2sc, 2sc in next st, 2sc] x6 – 36 sc
Rounds 7-10. 1sc in each st around. At the end of Round 10 change to Furry Tales yarn on the last yarn over. Cut Stone Washed yarn – 36 sc

Round 11. Continue with Furry Tales yarn and 4mm hook.
12sc, [1sc, 2sc in next st] x12 – 48 sc

Next rounds of the head are made with Furry Tales yarn. It will be very difficult to see the stitches, so try to keep the same tension (it will be obviously looser with Furry Tales yarn) and number of stitches as per pattern. If you miss some of the stitches, just add increases evenly to keep up with the correct stitch count.

Rounds 12-19 (8 rounds). 1sc in each st around – 48 sc


Round 20. [6sc, 1sc2tog] x6 – 42 sts
Round 21. 1sc in each st around – 42 sc
Round 22. [5sc, 1sc2tog] x6 – 36 sts
Round 23. 1sc in each st around – 36 sts
Round 24. [4sc, 1sc2tog] x6 – 30 sts
Round 25. [3sc, 1sc2tog] x6 – 24 sts

The head is shaped a little bit. Look at it from the front. A wider fluffy part above the nose will be a forehead of the bear’s head. Insert safety eyes symmetrically between the last round of the nose and the forehead. Stuff the head firmly. Make sure to put enough stuffing into the nose part.

Round 26. [2sc, 1sc2tog] x6 – 18 sts
Round 27. [1sc, 1sc2tog] x6 – 12 sts
Round 28. 6sc2tog – 6 sts

Cut yarn leaving approx. 30cm tail. Close the hole using yarn needle.
_______________________________________________________

BODY


With Furry Tales yarn and 4mm hook.
Rounds 1-6. Repeat first six rounds of the head – 36 sc
Continue to crochet in continuous spiral until the body measures approx. 15cm.
Next round. [4sc, 1sc2tog] x6, fasten off – 30 sts
_______________________________________________________

EARS – make two


With Stone Washed yarn and 3.5mm hook.
Rounds 1-6. Repeat first six rounds of the head – 36 sc
Rounds 7-12. 1sc in each st around. After last round fasten off leaving approx. 50 cm tail – 36 sts
_______________________________________________________

 ARMS – make two


With Furry Tales yarn and 4mm hook.
Rounds 1-2. Repeat first two rounds of the head – 12 sc
Continue to crochet in continuous spiral until the arm measures approx. 12cm. Fasten off.
_______________________________________________________

LEGS – make two


With Furry Tales yarn and 4mm hook.
Rounds 1-2. Repeat first two rounds of the head – 12 sc
Continue to crochet in continuous spiral until the leg measures approx. 10cm. Fasten off.
_______________________________________________________

FINISHING and PUTTING TOGETHER


Fold the ear. Using the yarn tail sew it together through the loops of the last rnd and pull the yarn for the desired shape. Position ears onto the head and sew them around to the head using yarn tail.

Stuff the body a little bit (it should not be firm) and sew the head onto the body opening using Stone Washed yarn in two strands and yarn needle. Don’t stuff legs and arms. Sew them onto the body with two strands of Stone Washed yarn. Hide all the loose tails inside the body.





Embroider the face using THIS step-by-step tutorial.

Crochet a scarf using leftovers of Stone Washed yarn (I made mine with 4mm hook and sc stitches – 7sc for width). Make a fringe if you wish.

Congratulations!! Your Baby Bear is now finished!

 Purchase a ready-to-print pdf with all instructions and photo-tutorial without advertisements HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy. Pdf is only available in English (US crochet terms).

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Rozeta CAL: Week 8



Hello and welcome to Week 8 of Rozeta CAL. I can’t believe we are that far already! The longest rounds are over and today a new bit is waiting for you. We will grow four corners to square up the mandala. Yes, you heard it right – all four corners in one week. The very first one might need a bit more time, as you will be coming through the new shape and joining technique. But next three corners should be easier and faster. A corner a day and you will be more than fine and in time for the next week.
Squaring up a mandala

Before the Rozeta CAL began I received quite a few e-mails and private messages about joining in the pattern. If there are any seams, and if separate parts should be put together. This week’s instructions will answer all your concerns. No, we will not make separate bits and join them later.

The corners will be attached to the mandala (or the octagon to be more precise) as-you-go.

Each corner is started with Yarn A (main color). Corners are worked in rows alternating right and wrong sides. And at the end of every row you will skip certain number of stitches on the mandala and then make a slip stitch to attach growing corner to the octagon.

Please, read instructions carefully, especially for the ends of the rows. They will tell you exactly how many stitches you should skip on the octagon (mandala) and where every slip stitch goes. If you count well, the last rows of the corners will be attached in the ch2-spaces on the edge of the mandala.

close-up of texture

Written instructions for Week 8 are available on Scheepjes website HERE. If this is the first time you hear about Rozeta, please check General Information HERE and a photo-tutorial for Special Stitches and Techniques HERE.

And don’t forget to check videos by Esther of It’s All in A Nutshell: UK right-handed, UK left-handed, NL right-handed, NL left-handed.

Here are a few helpful tips:


~ Always mark the first and the last stitch of every row (and move the marker as you progress). It will help you to see where exactly the first and last stitches of the next rows will go. Honestly, markers will save you time and prevent from frogging in many places.

~ Watch the shape and size of your corners carefully. If you switched for the smaller hook on the overlay edge of the mandala, then continue with a smaller hook for corners. Or even change to even smaller hook at some point. The angle of your corner should be approx. 90 degrees. If it’s getting smaller, then you most likely need to adjust your tension.

You can easily check the angle with just a square/rectangular piece of paper. Place it onto your corner as shown in the picture below and watch the edge of your corner. It should be approximately the same angle.
How to check the angle
 

~ DON’T STRESS OUT if your corner is becoming a bit larger or anything. The corners will NOT have ideal shape, but we will add a border around entire blanket later, and we will block it. So any slight differences in shapes should be solved and work themselves out.

~ DON’T STRESS OUT if after nearly finishing the corner you realize you have a bit more or less stitches on the edge of the mandala before next ch2-space. You can improvise and skip more or less stitches than stated in the pattern towards the end of the corner. If the shape of your corner is not vividly weird, there is nothing to worry about.

But of course if your corners look too much asymmetrical or you obviously messed up with something – then you’ll need to frog and remake. But let’s hope that won’t happen.

PHOTO-TUTORIAL


Row 1. It’s very important to find a right placement for the first group of stitches. Follow the instructions in the pattern, find the correct stitch and attach Yarn A in the third stitch before marked one. After Row 1 is finished, be sure to mark the first and last stitch of the row.
Row 1

Row 2. This row is made on the wrong side. Stitch markers should help you to find the first and last stitches easily. Be careful when making slip stitches at the end of the round. You should look for the free stitches on the edge of the mandala (after the one which is already occupied with slip stitch from the previous row). If you are not sure, please, watch Esther’s video.
Row 2

Row 3. We continue to work on right side again. A bit of texture will be added here with back post stitches. A cute ridge will appear on the right side.
Row 3

Row 4. We continue with the texture and add another ridge by working front post stitches on the wrong side.
Row 4

Row 5. Nothing special about this row. It should be easy to find the first and the last stitch of the previous row. Please, count total stitches at the end of every row – they are not too many and it will save you lots of nerves on the next rows!
Row 5

Row 7. We’ll add a bit of texture again – with popcorns this time. There are different ways of making them, but for Rozeta we will do them as 5dc (US terms here and to the end). You’ll have 4 popcorns along each edge.
Row 7 - popcorns

Row 8. Easy one, but please refer to the pictures below about how I crochet over the popcorns. I insert the hook into the hole. So dc of this row is “growing” from the inside of the popcorn.
Row 8

Rows 9-11. Repeat previous rows. But please, pay extra attention to the end of Row 11. There is a slight change at the end of the row from Row 5. You’ll be make chains and skip stitches differently. This will be valid for some of the next rows, so please pay full attention to the written instructions.
Row 11

Row 12. This row is made on the wrong side and it is the last one before we change to a new color. For a neater join (for this row and all next rows on the wrong side), please insert the hook from back to front! This small trick will make the color changes almost invisible. Please, follow instructions for cutting the yarn carefully. And we will not cut Yarn A at any point. It s fastened off only at the very end, when the entire corner is completed.
Row 12

Here you’ll have an important note about color changes for Colour Crafter version. Please, read it carefully. There will be a change of colors for each two of four corners. Each two opposite corners will be the same and they will slightly differ in colors from another two corners.

Row 13. Here your gauge maybe become slightly relaxed, so please watch your tension and check the angle of the corner as shown in the tips above. Maybe you might even want to change to a smaller hook for next rows.
Row 13

Row 14. Change back to Yarn A at the end of this row. Again, insert the hook from back to front.
Row 14


Row 15. This row will remind what we have done in Part 4. Front post stitches will be worked around the stitches of same color from three rows below and you should keep them vertical. To give you a visual tip, FPtr should be placed in central stitches between each pair of popcorns. They will divide popcorns into equal cells.
row 15

Row 16. Change to Yarn B (B/C) at the end of this row.
Row 16
 

Row 17. This row is similar to Row 13. Popcorns will be placed directly above FPtr below.
Row 17

Row 19. Similar to Row 15. FPtr will be again placed symmetrically between popcorns. And they should be vertical.
Row 19

Row 21. At the end of this row magic should happen – you should end one stitch before next ch2-sp in the octagon’s corner. As you can see in the picture below, my magic didn’t really happen, but because my corner looked ok and symmetrical, I didn’t bother to find a mistake and frog. I just tweaked skipped stitches a little bit on the next rows.
Row 21
 

Row 23. The magic should happen again and you should end in the ch2-space. YAY!
Row 23

Row 24. Same as for Row 23. You should end in ch2-sp in the corner (play with skipped stitches if you don’t).
 Row 24

Next Round. You will be working around entire large square with Yarn A. A few decreases will be made. We’ll use the stitches of the different height to shape all the sides and make the square more or less a square.
Last round

At the end of this part you can block your square slightly to get ready for the bottom panel. But don’t stretch it too much!!

Hurray! Part 8 is complete! See you next week!

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