Arcadia Square has become a new addition to my collection of the brioche crochet pattern, following the successful releases of the Archway Square and Blomma Square.
You can find an Arcadia Square pattern HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
In contrast to these two previous patterns (which could be joined into an infinity crochet fabric), the Arcadia pattern presents a more traditional square shape with three ornamental sections divided with slim borders.
This graphical construction allows the use the Arcadia Square as a block for a blanket, in combination with other crochet patterns in the same size.
For example, you can only create the small central squares and join them together for Persian tiles look. Or complete full squares and use them as the fundamental base for a blanket, as in Kamala blanket, for example.
And of course, you can always stay with just one square and turn it into a cushion.
I am often asked how I finished my cushions with the crochet squares. The most common way is to crochet two squares and join them together. However, it might not be practical, as such pillows do not have a zipper and it complicates taking care of them.
The solution would be to insert the zipper along one of the joined sides, but of course not everyone is a sewer (including me), and although in theory I know how to do that, still the zipper installed by hand does not sound safe enough.
What I prefer while making the crochet cushions, is to find a ready fabric pillowcase in similar size to the crochet square (or maybe even smaller to give the crochet fabric space for stretching), and simply to stitch the square onto the fabric.
This way, the cushion will have a zipper (already installed into the fabric), and there is no need to crochet another square for the back of the cushion.
Additionally, I have figured out that such pillowcases keep the shape better, especially if the fabric is firm enough.
If you are still not sure how to do it, please check my video tutorial HERE.
For my Acradia Squares I used Scheepjes Softfun yarn in 5 colors, but my test sample was made with just two colors and it looked great, too. And of course, you can work with different weights of yarn, especially if you would like to make a smaller square or grow it in size without adding extra rounds.
You can discover Softfun yarn at your local Scheepjes shop, or via online retailers - Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping), Caro's Atelier* (NL, Europe), Taemombo (US&Canada).
Sarah Fabbri helped me with testing, and she picked two colors for her Arcadia pillow.
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| Arcadia Square by Sarah Fabbri |
I would recommend using solid colors for this pattern, or alternatively you can choose variegated yarn with long color changes, preferably with smooth blend of one color into another.
As an example, here are beautiful works of our testers team.
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| Arcadia Square by Loele van den Bergh |
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| Arcadia Square by Ruth Bracey |
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| Arcadia Square by Jenna Bowers |
As a common rule for all brioche crochet patterns, it is always better to pick high contrast shades of yarn. Which will help the stitch pattern to stand out nicely. And puffier soft yarns work the best for brioche crochet helping to fill the gaps between the stitches. While fine and slippery yarns may cause some holes.
Then it is recommended to work tighter or make all chain-spaces smaller.
If you are new to brioche crochet technique and not sure how it works, please check my Brioche Masterclass HERE.
And if you would like to dive into the Arcadia Square pattern right away to create your own masterpiece, grab your copy of the pattern HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Hope you enjoy!
One of the most common questions I am asked as a designer is where my inspiration comes from. Such a general and easy question, right? But the truth is that I don’t know the answer, as my inspiration comes randomly and from hundreds of different sources. It can be nature, architecture, movies… But it can also be a random light shadow on the ground on a sunny day. Of course, I browse Pinterest on a regular basis (and who doesn’t?). But sometimes my inspiration comes from what you, my loving and supporting audience, ask me to create.
Many of you used thicker yarn to make the mandala bigger. It was turned into doilies, trivets and even bags! But still the size was too small to use it differently than just a coaster.
Since the release of the Gift Coaster, I have received a lot of messages with the requests for a bigger mandala with the same stitch pattern which could accompany the coaster. For example, in a size of a placement, or similar.
Usually, I do not design upon the requests, because it goes against the natural flow of inspiration and places additional pressure which is no good for a free expression of creativity. But this time the request from you, my lovely audience, resonated with what I wanted to make myself. And today I am happy to introduce Tulip Mandala!
The pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE.
It uses short rows technique with just common crochet stitches (mostly single crochet worked into back loops). The pattern comes in English language (US terms) with photo and video tutorials, so I am safe to say that you will be not lost.
I made several samples to show you the potential of this crochet pattern.
The first one is a single-colored mandala with the same Scheepjes Catona yarn I used for the Gift Coaster (in case you would like to make a companion to your smaller coasters). In the picture below, you can see the difference in sizes, which are quite balanced, I think.
For another sample, I picked thicker yarn to achieve the bigger size. I chose Scheepjes Stonewashed XL yarn from the newest Minerals series, as variegated yarn looks fantastic with short rows. The mandala turned out huge! It measures approximately 70cm across.
I crocheted another side with Scheepjes Truly Scrumptious, also aran weight, and joined two mandalas together for a round pillow.
I had a hard time finding the right amount of filling, and used three pillow foams and two towels 😊 I believe if it is stuffed firmly, it will make a nice floor pillow.
However, if you are not up for the floor pillows, you can use regular Stonewashed yarn (in Sport weight, which also comes in Minerals range), and your mandala will be significantly smaller. Approximately 52cm across.
Loele, who helped me with the testing of the Tulip Mandala pattern, coincidently picked the same color of the Stone Washed yarn, and what a lovely pillow she made.
And my third sample was made with leftovers of Scheepjes Softfun in 4 ombre pink colors. I guess, this is my favourite version. Love how the colors play together.
There was no exact plan for how to place the colors, I just changed them randomly after completing small parts of the mandala.
I figured it looked the best when one or two petals are worked with the same color, and then a new color is used for the next petal.
You can find yarn amounts for all samples in the pattern. The yarn is available in local Scheepjes stores, or via online retailers: Carosatelier* (Netherlands and EU), Woolwarehouse* (UK, international shipping), Taemombo (US and Canada). If you have no luck finding yarn in your area, try to look at the Scheepjes Amazon Store* (affiliate link).
And just to remind, you can find Tulip Mandala on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE.
Hope you enjoy,
It all started with a skein of yarn... Last October, I was invited to join my colleagues and crochet friends at the annual meeting of the Scheepjes designers in the Netherlands. We meet up every year and participate in the themed workshops. Last year, we learned how to dye yarn, and that was my first every experience with hand-dyeing yarn. You can read more about it here on my blog.
I brought home two gorgeous skeins of Scheepjes Nakid yarn, hand dyed by me. One was sock yarn in wool blend, and another was alpaca blend in DK weight. And of course, I started to think of possible designs using this yarn right away.
At first, my idea was to create a one-skein project, but the colorchanges were too vivid, and it was tricky to think of an elegant design showing off the colors nicely. So, after a few attempts, I decided to add another skein of similar weight (Scheepjes Arcadia) and matching color, to complement and emphasize the beauty of the hand-dyed yarn.
I also decided to go for stipes, as they are predicted to become popular this spring and summer (and in general, the striped patterns always look interesting and classy). And to add even more interest, I mixed the wide and narrow stripes and thought of a slim textured edge.
And I simply love how it turned out.
The pattern is very easy and is good for beginners. It is fully adjustable for length, you can create a mini-shawl, too.
You can either follow the instructions below, or purchase an ad-free ready-to-print pdf with complete instructions (and a chart as a bonus) on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE.
Hope you enjoy!
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MY SCARF CROCHET PATTERN
Copyright
An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Tatána Kuprijančik). Copyright 2014-2025. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Materials
Scheepjes Arcadia (75% Superwash Wool, 25% Polyamide; 100g/396m)
Yarn A: 803 Moraine x 1 ball
Yarn B: 807 Canyon x 1 ball
Alternative yarn
Scheepjes Nakid (75% Supewash Wool, 25% Nylon; 100g/400m)
Yarn A: x 1 ball hand dyed
Yarn B: Scheepjes Arcadia in matching color x 1 ball
For a mini version, I used approx. 40g of Scheepjes Arcadia yarn in color 802 Crag
3mm hook
Yarn needle to weave in ends
Gauge: 24 sts and 20 rows to measure 10cm x 10cm/ 4in x 4in with pattern for gauge (counting each st and ch1-sp as one stitch)
Measurements
Regular size: 200cm x 45cm/78¾in x 17¾in (fully adjustable)
Mini: 90cm x 18cm/35½in x 7in
Abbreviations (US terms)
beg beginning
ch chain stitch
lp(s) loop(s)
pm place marker
sc single crochet
sc2tog single crochet 2 together
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
yo yarn over the hook
Pattern for gauge
The gauge is important only if you choose the same yarn/weight as listed in the pattern and would like to obtain the same measurements. Otherwise, the gauge is not important.
Row 1: Ch28, 1sc in second ch from hook, [ch1, skip next ch, 1sc in next ch] rep to end, turn – 27 sts.
Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), 1sc in first st, [ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next sc] rep to end, turn.
Rows 3-25: Rep Row 2.
Wash and block gauge swatch, measure the gauge in the middle.
Pattern notes
My Scarf can be worked with one, two or more colors. It can be worked with or without the stripes. My version uses a mix of wide and narrow stripes, but you can make them all the same width if you like. The scarf works from tip to tip. First an increasing part is done and when you reach the desired width, a decreasing part follows.
INSTRUCTIONS
Important: before you start, weigh the total of yarn and note the amount carefully.
Increasing part
Row 1: Beg with Yarn A. Make an adjustable ring, ch1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), 1sc into ring, turn – 1 st.
Row 2: Ch1, 2sc in first st, turn – 2 sts.
Row 3 (inc): Ch3 (does not count as a st here and throughout), 1sc in first st, ch1, 1sc in next st, turn – 2 sc and 1 ch1-sp.
Row 4: Ch1, 1sc in first st, ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next st, turn – 2 sc and 1 ch1-sp.
Row 5 (inc): Ch3, 2sc in first st, ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next st, turn – 3 sc and 1 ch1-sp.
Row 6: Ch1, 1sc in first st, ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 2sc to end, turn – 3 sc and 1 ch1-sp.
On the next rows, you will introduce Yarn B and continue working with stripes. Use Yarn B for 2 rows and Yarn A for 4 rows. For example, use Yarn B for Rows 7-8 and Yarn A for Rows 9-12. Ch3 in the beginning of every increasing row will be worked with two colors held together.
Row 7 (inc): Ch3 together with Yarn A and Yarn B (two strands held together, here and throughout), cont with Yarn B only, 1sc in first st, ch1, 1sc in next st, ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in last st, turn – 3 sc and 2 ch1-sps.
Row 8: Cont with Yarn B. Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next st] rep to end, turn – 3 sc and 2 ch1-sps.
Row 9 (inc): Ch3 with both colors, then cont with one color only, 2sc in first st, [ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next st] rep to end, turn – 4 sc and 2 ch2-sps.
Row 10: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next st] rep to last st, 1sc in last st, turn – 4 sc and 2 ch2-sps.
Row 11 (inc): Ch3 with both colors, then cont with one color only, 1sc in first st, ch1, 1sc in next st, [ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next st] rep to end, turn – 4 sc and 3 ch1-sps.
Row 12: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next st] rep to end, turn – 4 sc and 3 ch1-sps.
Rep Rows 9-12 alternating Yarn A and Yarn B as described above (2 rows with Yarn B and 4 rows with Yarn A) until you use approx. half of total yarn. Finish either with Row 10 or Row 12, making sure you have a full last stripe (either with Yarn A or with Yarn B). Then proceed to Decreasing part.
For a Mini-version, rep Rows 9-12 until you reach approx. 45cm/17¾in along the straight side.
Decreasing part
On the decreasing part, switch the colors and now use Yarn B for 4 rows and Yarn A for 2 rows. For the first row of the Decreasing part, choose the opposite color than for the last row of the Increasing part.
Depending on which row you finished the Increasing part with, proceed either with Row 13 (if you finished with Row 12) or Row 15 (if you finished with Row 10).
Row 13 (dec): Ch3 with both colors, then cont with one color only, 1sc in first st, skip ch1-sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next st] rep to end, turn – 1 st decreased.
Row 14: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next st] rep to last st, 1sc in last st, turn.
Row 15 (dec): Ch3 with both colors, then cont with one color only, 1sc2tog over first 2 sts, [ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next st] rep to end, turn – 1 st decreased.
Row 16: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next st] rep to end, turn.
Rep Rows 13-16 alternating Yarn A and Yarn B as described above (4 rows with Yarn B and 2 rows with Yarn A) until you have 3 sc and 2 ch1-sps left. Then proceed to Row 17.
Row 17 (dec): Ch3 with both colors, then cont with one color only, 1sc in first st, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in next st, ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in last st, turn – 2 sc and 1 ch1-sp.
Row 18: Ch1, 1sc in first st, ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 2sc to end, turn.
Row 19 (dec): Ch3 with both colors, then cont with one color only, 1sc2tog over first 2 sts, ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in last st, turn – 2 sts and 1 ch1-sp.
Row 20: Ch1, 1sc in first st, ch1, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in last st, turn.
Row 21 (dec): Ch3 with both colors, then cont with one color only, 1sc in first st, skip next ch1-sp, 1sc in last st, turn – 2 sc.
Row 22: Ch1, 2sc, turn.
Row 23 (dec): Ch1, 1sc2tog, fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in all ends and block the scarf to measurements.
Purchase an ad-free ready-to-print pdf with complete instructions (and a chart as a bonus) on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE.
My crochet designing career started nearly 11 years ago (and I still cannot believe it was so long ago when I first introduced my own crochet pattern on Ravelry). Before that, I had been crocheting for years already, since I learned to crochet at the age of 5. And because we did not have access to fancy crochet magazines, often I created my own patterns with leftover yarn I had at hand. The yarn fibres were limited, and so were the colors, but still it felt like creating on your own give a special kind of freedom.
Time passed, we moved to the Czech Republic as a family, internet entered our lives and suddenly a whole new world of the yarns and handcrafting was introduced to my life through a laptop screen. I could order yarn online from different parts of the world, enjoying the variety. And it felt like even more freedom than before!
In 2015, I was invited to join a Scheepjes designer collective group and got a unique opportunity to work with a wonderful company and meet the best crochet designers and creative souls. We made many friendships, and probably the first time in my life I got the sense of belonging to something big.
Mostly working with Scheepjes yarns, I kept looking at the “candy” hand-dyed skeins in the yarn shops, and I kept buying them for display in glass closets in my studio. Not lying, I still have skeins which I bought 10 years ago! And still don’t dare to use them for anything.
And I kept dreaming about dyeing yarn myself. One day.
And so… one day it happened!
Being a member of the Scheepjes designer group (a group of independent designers working with Scheepjes yarns), every year I come to the Netherlands to meet up with my colleagues and friends. And every year Scheepjes organizes some themed workshops for us.
It is always a surprise, and we never know the agenda in advance. And guess what we did last year? We dyed our own yarn!
To my shame, working with Scheepjes yarns for 10 years now, I thought I knew all yarn ranges by heart. But I did not know they are also producing the series for hand dyeing.
There are several yarns in Nakid series: undyed sock yarn, undyed pure wool (in fingering, sport and DK weight), and undyed alpaca blend (in DK and chunky weight).
And Scheepjes is also stocking a full range of pigments (paint) for the hand dyeing. A huuuge number of colors, which can be mixed into an unlimited number of new shades.
Back in October at the hand-dyeing workshop with the lovely people from Draadkracht I painted my first ever hand-dyed yarn! The whole process was much easier than I expected. I thought you needed special equipment and tools, but in fact you can do it with just the paint (of course, special paint for hand-dyeing), acid water and a microwave.
I might not have remembered all steps properly, and I have not tried to repeat the process at home (yet). So, if you have not tried hand-dyeing yourself yet, I would recommend participating in a workshop first. And if you are in the Netherlands, don’t hesitate and contact Draadkracht. They are passionate about yarn dyeing and have been organizing workshops for 10 years now.
It was surprising that you can pick just two base colors and add a third color on top and that will be enough for “colouristic magic”. I would think you need some basic knowledge in colouristic to combine the colors, as they mix up unpredictably (at least for me as a beginner).
For my first skein (sock yarn) I picked the petrol and dark chocolate color, and Geja suggested a neon orange on top of them. Well, to say I was shocked is to say nothing. I am not fond of orange in general, and I would never use or wear the neon colors in particular.
And I was very hesitant to pick neon orange for my first every hand-dyeing attempt.
But well, I was a guest and did not want to make an impolite impression, and because I lacked any knowledge in dyeing yarn, I decided to trust the professionals and just keep up with the flow.
And look at what I got in the end! A nice skein inspired by forest greens, browns and rusty colors.
The neon orange was vanishing and blending with brown and petrol, giving them a breath of a new life. And additionally, all the colors blended with each other. Such a satisfying process and result!
I chose some blues and ochrea colors for another skein of the alpaca blend and got a soft gradient for that one. It’s interesting that different fibres absorb the paint differently, and especially alpaca fibre tends to become paler compared to regular wool.
As you can guess, I came back home with two gorgeous skeins of yarn, inspired to design something special with them.
And unless other hand-dyed skeins looking at me from behind the glass if the closets, these two new ones were used up at once!
This Friday, a new crochet pattern will be released here on my blog. So, stay tuned!
UPDATE: A special pattern with my own hand-dyes yarn is already up on my blog, and you can find it HERE.
