Like a Kelim mosaic crochet pattern: PART 2



Welcome to the PART 2 of the small Like a Kelim pillow make-a-long. Today we will be adding the first mosaic border around the central square which was completed last week. The border consists of the four stripes, each with the same stitch pattern but different colors. For exact placement of the colors, please check the color key. It was published last week together with the first part of the pattern

If you prefer to have complete written instructions together with charts, pattern notes and photo-tutorial, then you can purchase a ready-to-print pdf file for a small fee on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE.

First Mosaic Border 

Each of four Stripes is worked with new color for A and B (see color key). 

Stripe 1 

Row 1 – WS: With WS facing, attach Yarn A with ss in the corner sp of the central square, ch1 (does not count as a st – here and throughout), 1sc in same sp, 43sc along the side in FL, 1sc in next corner sp, ch14, ch1 changing to Yarn B, turn – 45 sc and 15 ch 


Row 2 – RS: With Yarn B, treating every ch as a st, 1sc in second ch from hook, ch2, sk 2 ch, 1sc, [ch3, sk 3 sts (treating very ch as a st), 1sc] to 3 last sts, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1sc to end, turn

Row 3 – WS: Ch1, 1sc, ch2, sk sp, 1sc, [ch3, sk sp, 1sc] to last sp and sc, ch2, sk sp, 1sc to end changing back to Yarn A (make sure float does not pull along the edge), turn 

Row 4 – RS: With Yarn A, 1sc, 1mdc in each of 2 skipped ch below, [ch1, sk 1 st, 3mdc] x13, ch1, sk 1 st, 2mdc, 1sc to end, turn 

Row 5: Ch1, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc] to end changing to Yarn B in last st, turn 

Row 6: With Yarn B, ch1, 1sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc] to last 2 sts, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc to end, turn 

Row 7: Ch1, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc] to last sp and sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc to end changing to Yarn A, turn 

Row 8: With Yarn A, ch1, 1sc, 1mdc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc] to last st, 1sc to end, turn 

Row 9: Ch1, 2sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to last st, 1sc to end changing to Yarn B, turn 

Row 10: With Yarn B, ch1, 2sc, 1mdc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc] to end working 1sc instead of last mdc, turn 

Row 11: Ch1, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc] to end changing to Yarn A in last st, turn 

Row 12: With Yarn A. Rep Row 6 

Row 13: Rep Row 7 changing to Yarn B in last st 

Row 14: With Yarn B, ch1, 1sc, 1mdc, [ch3, sk 3 sts, 1mdc] to last st, 1sc to end, turn 

Row 15: Ch1, 2sc, [ch3, sk sp, 1sc] to last st, 1sc to end changing to Yarn A (cut Yarn B), turn 

Row 16: With Yarn A, ch1, 2sc, [3mdc, 1sc] to last st, 1sc to end. Fasten off.

Stripe 2 

Row 1 – WS: With WS facing (previously completed stripe is on the left side for righties (right side for lefties), attach Yarn A with ss in the corner sp of the central square, ch1 (does not count as a st – here and throughout), 1sc in same sp, 43sc along the square’s side in FL, 1sc in next corner sp, 14 sc evenly along the short edge of Stripe 1 changing to Yarn B in last st, turn – 59 sc 


Rep Rows 2-16 from Stripe 1 

Stripe 3: Rep instructions for Stripe 2 

Stripe 4: Rep instructions for Stripe 2 joining it with the “hanging” edge of Stripe 1 as-you-go as foll: 

After completing Row 2, work ss in first ch on the hanging edge, turn and continue with Row 3 on WS. After rows 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14, ss in next two ch on the hanging edge, turn and continue with next row on WS. Join Row 16 with ss in last ch on the hanging edge. 

 And here is the chart for you to follow if you prefer it better than written instructions.


Purchase a ready-to-print copy of the pattern with ALL parts on Ravelry and Etsy.

See you next week!

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Like a Kelim pillow: mosaic crochet pattern. PART 1



It is Friday and time for a new pattern maybe? As promised, today we will start making Like a Kelim Pillow. It is an easy and fun mosaic pattern using Scheepjes Softfun mini packs. One pack will be enough for one square. And you can attach it to a ready fabric pillowcase for a new accessory in your room. Check more picture of the finished pillow HERE.


The pattern instructions are long, and I decided to publish them in parts on my blog. But you prefer to have a ready-to-print copy of the pattern, it is available for purchase for a small fee on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. The pdf file includes everything you need: pattern notes, stitch guide, charts, color keys, round-by-round written directions, and complete photo-tutorial.

Colorways Rich and Cloud

Materials: Scheepjes Softfun minis colour pack (60% Cotton, 40% Acrylic), 12 x 20g/56m balls

3mm hook, tapestry needle 

You can find Softfun mini packs in your local Scheepjes shop, or you can order yarn online via online retailers:

Woolwarehouse* (UK, international shipping)

Caro's Atelier* (NL, Europe)

Taemombo (Canada and US) 

Colorway Rainbow (two versions). Photo credit: taemombo

Gauge: after 11 rounds central square measures approx. 10 cm/4” across Size Finished square measures approx. 50cm/20”, blocked 

Abbreviations (US terms) 

BL back loop

ch chain stitch 

FL front loop 

rep repeat 

sc single crochet 

ss slip stitch 

st(s) stitch(es) 

sp(s) space(s) 

prev previous 

yo yarn over the hook 

Pattern Repeats 

[…] [rep instructions as many times as indicated] 

*…; rep instruction after * as many times as indicated in the pattern. 

 

Special stitches 

mdc mosaic double crochet: regular dc worked into skipped/unworked st from 3 rows below in front of chains; chains will stay behind mdc and will be skipped. 

SPsc spike single crochet: the spike stitch is almost the same as a single crochet but placed one round below the working round and drawn up to the height of a working round. Insert a hook in indicated st, draw up a loop to the height of the stitches at a working rnd, yo, pull through both lps on hook. Skip the sc of current rnd which is located behind a SPsc just made. Pattern Notes You can either follow only written instructions, or together with the chart. Use one color for 2 rows unless otherwise instructed. The color is changed in the corner of the central square in the first ss, or at the end of rows of Mosaic Stripes in the last yo of the last st. Do not cut the yarn, carry it up to next row. You will have floats of yarn on WS. Make sure they do not pull or are too loose. 

Colorway Jewel. Photo credit: Esther Schippers

 

How to Read the Chart 

Chart is read from bottom to top. Each rnd/row in chart represents two rnds/rows of same color (except of first row of squares for both mosaic border which indicates Row 1). Even rnds/rows are worked on the RS (2, 4, 6, etc) and are read from right to left. Odd rnds/rows on WS (3, 5, 7, etc) are read back across from left to right. 

The first square of each rnd/row shows which color is used for 2 rnds/rows (2-3, 4-5, etc) Each square of the chart shows 1 stitch or 1 missed stitch. When squares of different colors appear in the rnd/row, they should be missed. So instead of working them, make the same number of chs as the number of missed sts. So, for 1 missed st you will have ch1; for 2 missed sts, ch2, etc. 

On RS rnds/rows, when you crochet with a different color, you will make mdc in these missed sts from three rnds below. Mdc are only worked on RS rnds/rows and are always made in front of chains of previous rnds/rows, so the ch-sps are always missed behind them. On WS (odd numbered rnds/rows) you will only make sc and chs. 

Please note that sc are made in sts of the previous rnd/row, and chs are made over chs. 

Important! In the chart for Central Square, first and last squares indicate sc worked in corner ch-sps. Squares marked with a dot are only worked on the WS. 


 

For color key for Rich, Cloud, Jewel and Rainbow, please download THIS file.

******************

INSTRUCTIONS

An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2021. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

 Please, note that colors in the photo-tutorial are random and don't correspond with colors in the Scheepjes mini packs.

Purchase a ready-to-print copy of the pattern with ALL parts on Ravelry and Etsy.

Central Square 

Round 1 – RS: Begin with Yarn A. Make magic ring, ch1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), [ch2, 1sc into ring] x4, ss to beg sp – 1 sc per side 


Round 2 – RS: Continue with Yarn A. Ch1, [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp – 3 sc per side 

Round 3 – RS: Ch1, [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp – 5 sc per side 

Round 4 – RS: Ch1 changing to Yarn B, [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, ch1, sk 1 st, 3sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp, turn – 5 sc and 2 ch1-sps per side 

Round 5 – WS: Ch1, [1sc in same corner sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2] x4, ss to beg sc inserting hook from back to front (here and for all WS rounds), turn – 7 sc and 2 ch1-sps per side 


Continue working in rounds alternating RS and WS and changing yarn after every two rounds. 

Round 6 – RS: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing back to Yarn A (grabbing it up on WS – here and throughout; make sure the float does not pull), [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, 1mdc in skipped st from 3 rounds below in front of work (here and throughout), ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp, turn – 7 sc, 2 mdc and 2 ch1-sps per side 

Round 7 – WS: Ch1, [1sc in same corner sp, 4sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 4sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2] x4, ss to beg sc, turn – 11 sc and 2 ch1-sps per side 

Round 8: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn B, [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp, turn – 8 sc, 2 mdc and 5 ch1-sps per side 

Round 9: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 2sc] x4, ch1, sk sp, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 12 sc and 5 ch1-sps per side 

Round 10: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn A, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc] x2, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 8 sc, 5 mdc and 6 ch1-sps per side 

Round 11: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x3, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 15 sc and 6 ch1-sps per side 

Round 12: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn B, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, [1mdc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc] x3, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 11 sc, 6 mdc and 6 ch1-sps per side 


Round 13: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 4sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc] x3, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 19 sc and 6 ch1-sps per side 

Round 14: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn A, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc] x3, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 13 sc, 6 mdc and 8 ch1-sps per side 

Round 15: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc] x4, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 21 sc and 8 ch1-sps per side 

Round 16: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn B, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc] x4, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 14 sc, 8 mdc and 9 ch1-sps per side 

Round 17: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 2sc] x9, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 24 sc and 9 ch1-sps per side 

Round 18: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn A, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc] x4, ch1, sk 1 st, 3sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 16 sc, 9 mdc and 10 ch1-sps per side 

Round 19: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 4sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc] x5, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 27 sc and 10 ch1-sps per side 

Round 20: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn B, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc] x5, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 17 sc, 10 mdc and 12 ch1-sps per side 

Round 21: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc] x6, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 29 sc and 12 ch1-sps per side 

Round 22: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn A, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 4sc, [1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc, 3sc] x6, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 43 sc per side. Fasten off both yarns. 

Purchase a ready-to-print copy of the pattern with ALL parts on Ravelry and Etsy.

That's all for today! See you next Friday when we will add the first mosaic border.

P.s. PART 2 is available HERE.

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Like a Kelim Pillow – reveal



Do you remember my designing challenge from the last few weeks? It’s finally completed! And it turned out to be a mosaic square with a perfect size to fit 50 cm/20” pillow. The pattern will be released as a mini make-a-long with the first part published here on my blog next Friday. 


As you probably remember, I fell in love with Softfun mini packs by Scheepjes. Those are tiny 20g skeins in 12 pre-selected colors, and you can choose from several packs. I had Rich and Cloud colorways at hand. And testers (Laura Jackson and Esther Schippers) used Rainbow and Jewel to show you other color options. 

This design was a huge challenge as I needed to solve several tasks: 

1. Design something just in right size for all colors to be used, so that not too much and not too little yarn is left in the pack. 

2. Combine colors nicely. Mosaic crochet as well as overlay and probably all other technique which work with several shades at the same time, is pretty tricky in terms of color placement. What looks nice in skeins side by side, might not be as nice when worked into mosaic, and even less nice together with other elements in same mosaic but different colors. 

I should say I had to frog a few times and play around until I was satisfied with the finished piece. And here is how my new baby design looks. 

It reminds of the Kelim rugs. I had several hand-woven rugs like that at my home in the past. In various bright colors. My interior taste changed a lot over the past few years, but I stayed faithful to Kelims. So, I have two of them at home now, but in earthy monochrome colors. 

You can find several mosaic designs on my blog, but this time I decided to play with the shapes a bit. And make a square in a patchwork style. 

First, the central square is finished, and then two mosaic borders are added around it, each of them consisting of 4 stripes. And each stripe has two contrast shades in it. Such a crazy splash of colors! 

The pattern will include exact placement of each color, if you would like to recreate the same project as mine. But you are also free to move and change shades according to your taste. 

Laura’s work is a great example of how the same mini pack of yarn can end up in two differently looking project. One of the squares combine the same shades together in each stripe, and another one is very random. And both look fantastic. What you think? 

Photo credit: Laura Jackson (taemombo)

First part of the pattern will be released next Friday. And in a meanwhile you can have a look at Softfun mini packs and choose one for yourself. They are available at local Scheepjes shops as well as via online retailers:

Woolwarehouse* (UK, international shipping)

Caro's Atelier* (NL, Europe)

Taemombo (Canada and US) 

See you next Friday!

****************************************

UPDATE: 

Find PART 1 HERE,  PART 2

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Alma Sweater – pattern release



Hands up if you love brioche crochet! Brioche still seems to be quite a huge trend in the world of knitting. While not so widely used in crochet so far. So well, let us correct that with a new pattern coming out today! Alma Sweater is here. 

 If you follow my blog for a while, you might know that brioche crochet has been “a thing” for me for a while. It first started with a so-called overlay version, which was a bit stiff and more suitable for houseware, like pillows and rugs. 

Then I moved to an airier version using only front post stitches and chains. And you might remember my Coral Story Blanket and Helios Mandala designs. And finally I have decided to take a new challenge onboard and to incorporate brioche crochet into a garment design. 

The pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE with 30% off through Monday, February 1st, 2021. The price you see is discounted already and no codes are needed. 

Alma Sweater is designed to fit with 2-4cm (¾ - 1 ½ in) of positive ease at the bust. It is worked seamlessly from top down. First collar is worked in rounds (optional), and then brioche yoke is worked in rounds to sleeves separation. The lower body is worked in rounds to bottom. Sleeves are worked top down. The length of the body and sleeves is easily adjustable. 

The pattern comes with two slight variations: with collar, or with a crew neck. Originally it was meant to be with an exceedingly high collar with the beginning of brioche patterning which would grow down into a massively patterned brioche yoke. but then I thought that high collars are not for everyone, and added a crew neck version.

Someone says the stitch pattern reminds her of the flames, someone sees the reflections of a peacock tail. Someone can recognize similarities with the Coral Story blanket. This is what Alma Sweater is about. By the way, credit for the name Alma goes to Macarena Marskell who was also helping me to test the pattern. 

Alma Sweater comes in 8 sizes: XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X). You will find exact measurements for the finished bust and upper arm in the pattern together with the note to opt for a bigger size if your gauge is smaller than suggested in the pattern. 

As with every other brioche design, it is better to choose contrast colors. I decided to repeat my yarny experiment and took Scheepjes Metropolis and Scheepjes Spirit for my original sample. And made another one (cropped and with short sleeves) in Scheepjes Our Tribe. 

If you are wondering about the fit, this sweater design is more fitted than loose. Smaller ease helps to keep the back straight and without the bubbles. However oversized fit is also possible – after blocking the back will just become a bit roomy. 

 I am normally wearing S size but love the oversized clothes. So, my dark sample is M size with lots of positive ease and roomy back (as you can see in the pictures). 

And light gray cropped sample is XS size, so with no ease at all. It looks pretty in the pictures, but I should admit I can hardly breath in it. I was aiming for size S but started with the smaller size by mistake. 

So please, take your time to make accurate measurements of your own bust, add needed ease and choose correct size. Then make a gauge swatch, block it and see if it’s the same as mentioned in the pattern. If by any chance your gauge is smaller, please better opt for a bigger size. 

And of course, I should show you all the masterpieces created by my wonderful testers pool! You can see several dresses, too. Aren’t they gorgeous?! Check Ravelry page for every project to see details about yarns and adjustments to tape the sleeves and lower body’s shape.


1. Lisa Marlow, 2. Evelien van der Drift, 3. Faye Pike, 4. Esther Schippers, 5. Taylor O’Shea, 6. Jenna Bowers, 7. Macarena Marskell, 8. Elizabeth Kalka, 9. Ruth Joy 

 Laura Jackson has completed two sweaters! And used combination of Rhythm Mohair and Rhythm Alpaca yarns (both by Scheepjes). Such a hairy soft happiness! Luckily, she has also caught her sweater at the sleeveless stage in the picture. It’s a bit cropped, and can become a nice summer top as well (well, maybe not in alpaca yarns, though… But some soft fingering cotton yarns could work).

Photo credit: taemombo

All mentioned yarns are available in local Scheepjes shops as well as via online retailers: 

Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping) 

Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe) 

Taemombo (Canada and US), Yarnaddicted (US) 

And just a remind, that Alma Sweater pattern is available on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE with 30% off through Monday, February 1st, 2021. The price you see is discounted already and no codes are needed. 

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