Showing posts with label pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pattern. Show all posts
Welcome to Gift Mystery make-a-long (MAL). It has become a tradition to host a mystery make-a-long at the end of the year, and this is our 5th (!) event. Same as for the past years, I have designed 4 mystery patterns in different techniques: overlay, tapestry and crochet short rows. All patterns are new, exclusive for this MAL and were never published before!
What is Gift Mystery Make-a-long about?
The Gift Mystery make-a-long is about crocheting small and cute holiday decorations which will make perfect last-minute gifts for your friends and family.
Being a crafter myself, I understand that this is a busy time of the year for crafters, and it is not easy to squeeze new projects on your to-do list. That’s why I tried to keep the MAL projects small and doable in just several evenings. And some of the patterns can be extended to bigger projects, too.
But being small, they are also very effective.
Each pattern will use a different crochet technique, and the patterns will come with full written instructions, detailed photo-tutorial and video tutorials explaining the techniques.
The Gift Mystery make-a-long ebook includes 4 patterns, which will be revealed one by one every week. Purchasing the ebook once, you will get access to all 4 patterns which will be added to your Ravelry library on the weekly basis (on Wednesdays).
Where can you find the patterns?
The MAL has not started yet. Right now, a pre-SALE is going on Ravelry. The patterns are bundled into an eBook. When purchasing a Gift Mystery ebook HERE, you will receive an introduction pdf with details about how the make-a-long will be hosted. No actual pattern will be added just yet.
You will receive a notification when the first pattern is published and added to your Ravelry library on November 27th, 2024.
The Gift Mystery make-along will run for 4 weeks and the ebook will stay at a special price during this period. After all 4 patterns are revealed, they will become available for purchase separately, and the ebook will be listed at a regular price (without introductory discount, so be sure to grab your copy in time).
For now, the patterns will be available on Ravelry only. And after all four projects are revealed, they will be added as stand-along patterns on Etsy, too.
Which materials will you need?
To make the projects from the Gift Mystery make-a-long, you will need leftovers of yarn from your stash, a crochet hook, scissors and stuffing (for some of them). The projects are small and colorful!
The gauge is not important for these patterns, and you can use yarn in different weight and colors.
Where can you receive pattern support?
Although every pattern will include complete information about the crochet technique with progress step-by-step pictures and video tutorials, you might still have questions.
You can post your pictures and ask questions in my Facebook group HERE where we will be happy to see all your Lilla Bjorn creations! Join now our friendly community with 37K+ members.
Please, be aware that you will have to answer a simple question upon a sign up. Without answering, your request will not be approved.
UPDATE
Time line:
WEEK 1: Gift Coaster
Hope you join! And enjoy!
If you follow me for at least a year, you may know that last November I participated in 2nd Annual Sales Event. And I am happy to be a part of this again this year. I teamed up with 23 brilliant crochet designers to bring you the best offer of the year, with games, prizes, giveaway and discounts of course.
If you have been thinking about trying some of my patterns, now it’s right time to do so. 3rd Annual Sales Event is going on right now, and you can use code ENABLER to save quite a bit in my Ravelry store HERE. The code is valid for all my paid patterns, and the more you purchase, the larger your savings will be. You can use this offer through Monday, November 28th.
Code ENABLER is also valid for all paid patterns in Ravelry stores of all 24 participating designers. Click the links below to discover hundreds (and thousands) of amazing crochet patterns and choose your favourites!
Abigail Haze from Abigail Haze Designs
Alessandra Hayden from Just Be Happy Crochet
Amber Millard from Divine Debris
Ann Mancini-Williams from Glamour4You
Ana Dyakova from Ana D
Briana Kepner from BrianaK
Carolina Guzman from One & Two Company
Carolyn Calderon from The Purple Poncho
Crystal Bucholz from Cyrstalized Designs
Danyel Pink from Danyel Pink Designs
Emily Truman from Em's Corner
Jennifer Dougherty from Crochet by Jennifer
Jennifer Pionk from A Crocheted Simplicity
Julie Desjardins from ACCROchet
Kate Wagstaff from Crafting Friends Designs
Luz Mendoza from Luz Patterns
Maria Bittner from Pattern Paradise
Melody Jo Rogers from Melody's Makings
Pam Dajczak from Sincerely, Pam
Sonya Blackstone from Blackstone Designs
Susan Carlson from Felted Button
Theresa Grant from Unravel Me
Viktoria Gogolak from CrocheTrend
Know participating designers well? Then you can enter a fun Trivia game “Name That Design” for a chance to win gift card. Each of 3 winners will get 40$. Not sure how to participate? It’s very easy. Just click THIS form and enter your answers. Submit and you are all done. The lucky winners will be announced and e-mailed on Tuesday, November 29th.
If you feel like the questions are too difficult, just have a closer look at the patterns in each designer’s Ravelry store. And I am sure, all the answers are there.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
If you have been thinking about trying some of my patterns, now it’s right time to do so. 3rd Annual Sales Event is going on right now, and you can use code ENABLER to save quite a bit in my Ravelry store HERE. The code is valid for all my paid patterns, and the more you purchase, the larger your savings will be. You can use this offer through Monday, November 28th.
Code ENABLER is also valid for all paid patterns in Ravelry stores of all 24 participating designers. Click the links below to discover hundreds (and thousands) of amazing crochet patterns and choose your favourites!
Abigail Haze from Abigail Haze Designs
Alessandra Hayden from Just Be Happy Crochet
Amber Millard from Divine Debris
Ann Mancini-Williams from Glamour4You
Ana Dyakova from Ana D
Briana Kepner from BrianaK
Carolina Guzman from One & Two Company
Carolyn Calderon from The Purple Poncho
Crystal Bucholz from Cyrstalized Designs
Danyel Pink from Danyel Pink Designs
Emily Truman from Em's Corner
Jennifer Dougherty from Crochet by Jennifer
Jennifer Pionk from A Crocheted Simplicity
Julie Desjardins from ACCROchet
Kate Wagstaff from Crafting Friends Designs
Luz Mendoza from Luz Patterns
Maria Bittner from Pattern Paradise
Melody Jo Rogers from Melody's Makings
Pam Dajczak from Sincerely, Pam
Sonya Blackstone from Blackstone Designs
Susan Carlson from Felted Button
Theresa Grant from Unravel Me
Viktoria Gogolak from CrocheTrend
Know participating designers well? Then you can enter a fun Trivia game “Name That Design” for a chance to win gift card. Each of 3 winners will get 40$. Not sure how to participate? It’s very easy. Just click THIS form and enter your answers. Submit and you are all done. The lucky winners will be announced and e-mailed on Tuesday, November 29th.
If you feel like the questions are too difficult, just have a closer look at the patterns in each designer’s Ravelry store. And I am sure, all the answers are there.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
A new release and a new Mandala. Again! Last spring my friend Joana asked me to design a Celtic mandala for her. My husband is very much into Celtic theme too and he immediately supported this idea. For me it was first ever experience of designing Celtic knots, I studied different images and books. But as always, my inspiration brought me somewhere else (as I cannot really control the flow of creative energy), so as a result this Mandala doesn’t look very Celtic – and “knots” more remind of dancing butterflies. I named this mandala after Joana because it was she who inspired me to start working on it. But I loved to crochet different knots so much that maybe in the future I will design something really looking Celtic…
And so far let me introduce a Joana’s Mandala to you! I usually use many bright and contrasting colours for my mandala designs. But this time I wanted to go for something calm, plain and elegant maybe? I wanted this design not to appeal with colors but with clear lines and very obvious image.
Joana’s Mandala pattern is available for purchase HERE on Ravelry HERE on Etsy and HERE on Loveknitting.
Add this Pattern to your Ravelry Queue
This mandala is designed in overlay crochet with lots of front post stitches. But it is not so stiff as many other projects made in this technique. This time I decided to use double crochet (US term) stitches instead of single crochet – for the background. And the mandala turned out to be soft and pliable.
This mandala is made with blend cotton yarn Stone Washed* by Scheepjes (read my review about this yarn HERE) in shades Boulder Opal (804), Amazonite (813) and Moon Stone (801). As it is already told by the name of the yarn itself, it has a stone washed effect. The shades are not bold and solid, but they have a kind of antique look. And I am very satisfied with how this particular yarn worked for my new mandala. If you are in US you can check Stone Washed yarn at Paradise Fibers*.
I used Clover Soft Touch* crochet hook 3.25 mm (D) and mandala turned out to be approx. 39 cm (15 ½ inches) in diameter. The difficulty level of this pattern is Intermediate because of front post stitches. Working with this pattern demands your attention and concentration. It is not difficult to follow (especially if you worked with overlay crochet before), but you need to read instructions carefully and count well. So that the stitch count on every round is correct. I enjoyed working with this mandala and hope you will also have lots of fun!
As other crochet mandalas this one can be used as a table decoration, appliqué for a pillow cover, stool cover, potholder and even a round pillow. You can read about different ways to use crochet mandala in THIS post (don’t forget to read comments as well, as there are some great TIPs there).
I have an idea to create a wide round border for this mandala to transform it into a rug (for meditation for example) or a medium sized throw for a chair or sofa… or even a baby blanket. It is just an idea so far, but I will be working on it :) So… to be continued.
And yes! Almost forgot to tell that Joana's mandala has exactly the same stitch count on the last round as needed for Dandelion Border. So you can square it up with this pattern!
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*This blog post contains affiliate links. Thanks for your support!
I should tell you the truth. I am totally obsessed with making mandalas.
Sometimes I have a thought about designing a blanket, or a small accessory. But
then another mandala idea pops-up and I forget about everything. Even if I make
a bag – it is round shaped and with the mandala on the front. Do you think it is
a diagnose? A kind of disease? A mandala virus? I don’t know… But I released a
new mandala design again. Though a little bit different this time.
I love to play with colors, but sometimes you need a “color silence” to clear
your thoughts and think more about the shape and structure. I had one big ball
of
Barroco Natural
yarn by Circulo, and I decided to play with it a bit and to create a
monochrome design. With some simple cabling… and this is how my new Minimalist
Cabled Mandala was born. The pattern is available
HERE on Ravelry.
I am very often asked how crocheted mandalas can be used. Yes, they are
beautiful, and colorful and flat. But what is their practical use? And I’ve got
an idea of this post. To show you (on the example of my new
Minimalist Cabled Mandala) different ways of using them.
If your mandala is thick enough – you can also use it as a chair pad. You can
use it just as it is (flat) of you can do what I did. I purchased ready chair
pads in Ikea and stitched mandalas by hand onto it. As a result – you have a
handmade unique accessory with a fabric look.
You can decorate your old pillow cover but stitching a crocheted mandala onto
it. Or you can even make a wall hanging! I came across a nice idea of how to
frame crocheted mandalas. If you are lucky to find a metal (or plastic, or
wooden) ring the same size as your mandala – you can crochet the last round with
sc around mandala and over the ring at the same time. Easy and effective!
I used cotton yarn Bloom* by Scheepjes to make this pair of monochrome potholders (two skeins for each potholder).
Instructions for the bottom layer are given in the pattern. I suggest to join
both layers with one round of sc and then add one round of crab stitches to give
your potholder a nice finished look.
To join top and bottom layers of the pot holder put them together facing with the wrong sides. Work joining rnd (with sc) on the right side of top part inserting your hook through both lps on the last rnd of both layers.
You can also make a loop while putting your potholder together:
Continue with sc till you come to the top of any petal, chain 10 and sc into the same stitch of joining round, forming a loop. Continue with the joining round until the end, finish with a slst in the first sc of joining rnd, don’t fasten off. Return making a round of crab stitch. When you reach the ch10-space, turn work, make 15 sc in the loop, turn work and continue with crab stitch until the end of the round. Cut the thread, fasten off.
The size of my stool cover is approx. 32.5 cm (13 inches) across. And here is
what I did:
Follow Minimalist Cabled Mandala pattern till rnd 12.
Rnd 12-14. 132 dc
Rnd 15. *1dc in each of next 4 sts, 1dc2tog over next 2 sts, 1dc in each of next 5 dc* 12 times; join with sl st in ch2-sp. (120)
Rnd 16. Note: make ch1 instead of 1st sc.
*1sc in each of next 7 sts, 1sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc in next st* 12 times; join with sl st in ch2-sp. (108) You may fasten off now or make one rnd with crab stitch and then fasten off and weave yarn tail in.
To make a stool cover in different size, continue with the mandala pattern till
you reach the desired size (the diameter of your stool). If mandala with 2nd rnd
of petals turns to be too large but mandala with one rnd of petals is too small
– you can stop making mandala pattern after rnd 11 and then add several rnds
with dc stitches and 12 increases on each round (see instructions for bottom
part of the potholder in the pattern). When you reach the desired size - add
several more rounds with dc stitches and NO increases, and then one or two
rounds with decreases as mentioned above. When you are satisfied with the stool
cover’s shape, make one rnd with crab stitches and fasten off (weave in yarn
tail).
This pillow was made by Cindy Douglass. Cindy was helping me to test the
pattern and in the end decided to make one more mandala and turn it into the
pillow. She kindly gave me a permission to share her pictures and notes with
you:
Here are all the ways of using crocheted mandala I’ve come up with… Do you know any other? Please, share your ideas in the comments below. I would love to hear from you.
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1. Flat decoration: trivet, chair pad, wall hanging
Of course the main function of the mandala is to actually decorate. Mandala is round and flat. Large or small it can be used as a table decoration: as a trivet for a bowl with fruits for example, or vase with flowers.
2. Potholder
Another wonderful way of using mandalas is to make potholders of them. They can be one- or double layered. Lace or structured.I used cotton yarn Bloom* by Scheepjes to make this pair of monochrome potholders (two skeins for each potholder).
To join top and bottom layers of the pot holder put them together facing with the wrong sides. Work joining rnd (with sc) on the right side of top part inserting your hook through both lps on the last rnd of both layers.
Continue with sc till you come to the top of any petal, chain 10 and sc into the same stitch of joining round, forming a loop. Continue with the joining round until the end, finish with a slst in the first sc of joining rnd, don’t fasten off. Return making a round of crab stitch. When you reach the ch10-space, turn work, make 15 sc in the loop, turn work and continue with crab stitch until the end of the round. Cut the thread, fasten off.
3. Round stool cover
If you have old round stool and want to give it a new life, you can adjust mandala pattern and make an elegant stool cover.
Follow Minimalist Cabled Mandala pattern till rnd 12.
Rnd 12-14. 132 dc
Rnd 15. *1dc in each of next 4 sts, 1dc2tog over next 2 sts, 1dc in each of next 5 dc* 12 times; join with sl st in ch2-sp. (120)
Rnd 16. Note: make ch1 instead of 1st sc.
*1sc in each of next 7 sts, 1sc2tog over next 2 sts, 1sc in next st* 12 times; join with sl st in ch2-sp. (108) You may fasten off now or make one rnd with crab stitch and then fasten off and weave yarn tail in.
4. Pillow
Do you like pillows? I do! But I only have square ones. Crocheted mandala gives you a great chance to easily make a round one, too.
- I made two mandalas following the pattern. After rnd 15 I added one round of dc and then one round of sc, with no increases in either round. I purchased a 16" pillow form (largest I could find), but had to add some quilt batting around it to fill out the pillow covering. The finished pillow measures about 17" when laid on a yard stick.
- I slip stitched the front and back together through Back Loops only of the sc round (except for the 16" section for the zipper I used).
- I hand sewed the zipper in place using Back Loops of the last round on each mandala (next time I'll probably do the zipper first as it would have been easier).
- Then I crab-stitched in the Front Loop only around both mandalas. This way the zipper is pretty much hidden by the crab stitch when looking at the pillow from either side.
5. Rug
Mandalas will make great rugs. I haven’t tried this particular pattern to make a rug but I believe it will make a very nice rug when made with T-shirt yarn.Here are all the ways of using crocheted mandala I’ve come up with… Do you know any other? Please, share your ideas in the comments below. I would love to hear from you.
Don't forget to subscribe to Weekly Newsletter not to miss a single post. And you can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Here is a knitting tutorial on how to make a Blue Feather Sweater. I don’t call it a pattern because is it not really a pattern in full sense as I don’t indicate different sizes. But using this very simple instructions you will be able to create your own unique sweater of any size! Click HERE to see more pictures.
But you can easily adjust its width and height and calculate the amount of stitches using a very simple formula below.
Alpaca Rhythm: 661 (25g – whole skein), 662 (9g), 655 (9g), 656 (11g), 657 (11g), 659 (17g).
NOTE: If you decide to make other size than mine, you will obviously need more (or less) yarn. 11 skeins (in listed colors) are 275g of yarn in total. This is twice more than I used for my sweater and it should be enough for larger sweater. Maybe you will only need 1 more skein of Alpaca 661.
Rhythm yarn (both Alpaca and Mohair) is available on Deramores* and Wool Warehouse*(international shipping), Paradise Fibers* (US) and on Scheepjes.com (NL)
st(s) - stitch(es)
*…* - *crochet/knit following directions* as many times as indicated
sl st (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
k - knit stitch
p – purl stitch
rib – ribbing
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
stocking st
mattress st
cast on - I prefer so called "Italian cast on" as it makes the edge more elastic with a fabric look.
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2015. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
You can use this simple formula: (desired width in cm) / 10 x 18 (gauge for 10cm) + 2 side sts
Or: (desired width in inches) / 4 x 18 (gauge for 4") + 2 side sts
Examples:
1. You need 70cm width. Use the formula: 70/10x18 = 126 sts + 2 side sts = 128 sts in total.
2. You need 26" width: 26/4x18 = 117 sts + 2 side sts = 119 sts in total.
And if you want a longer sweater - you can just knit more rows (and make some of the stripes wider according to your taste). For example, if you you want to make your sweater 10cm (4") longer - you should add 24 rows. And it's 2 extra rows to 12 stripes.
NOTE: the 1st st in the beginning of every row is slipped on the needle unworked.
Work in rows. Cast on 114 sts (or as many sts as you need for a desired width of your sweater) on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with 2 strands of Alpaca 661. Work 3cm – 10 rows (1 ½ inches) with rib (k2, p2). Switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work in stocking st until you get the desired length of your sweater. Remember the knitting gauge. When you are satisfied with the length, cast off loosely.
Here is my color way:
Rows 1-10 (rib) – 2 strands of Alpaca 661
Rows 11-16 (6 rows) – continue with 2 strands of Alpaca 661
Rows 17-20 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 682
Rows 21-22 (2 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 661
Rows 23-32 (10 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 682
Rows 33-38 (6 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 662
Rows 39-40 (2 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 677
Rows 41-42 (2 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 662
Rows 43-52 (10 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 677
Rows 53-56 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 682
Rows 57-64 (8 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 657
Rows 65-72 (8 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 676
Rows 73-74 (2 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 657
Rows 75-78 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 656
Rows 79-82 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 676
Rows 83-86 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 656
Rows 87-90 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 659
Rows 91-98 (8 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 679
Rows 99-102 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 659
Rows 103-104 (2 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 679
Rows 105-110 (6 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Rows 111-112 (2 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 659
Rows 113-116 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Rows 117-120 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 655
Rows 121-122 (2 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Rows 113-128 (6 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 679
Rows 129-132 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Rows 133-138 (6 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 655
Rows 139-142 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
After casting off the upper edge of your sweater will curl. But the crocheted detail will help to fix it.
Work on right side with 1 strand of Alpaca 659 and crochet hook 3.25mm (D). Try to adjust your gauge and don’t crochet too tight or too loose. The width of the crocheted detail should be the same as the body’s width.
NOTE: ch1/ch2 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as sc/dc.
Row 1 (RS). Insert the hook in a st on the side, yo, pull up a loop, ch1. Make 1 sc in each of 112 sts on the edge of front/back inserting the hook in the sts of the last row of the body. Turn.
Row 2 (WS). Ch1, 112 sc, turn.
Row 3 (RS). Ch2, 112 dc, turn.
Row 4-5. Ch1, 112 sc, bind off.
Please, use the same formula to calculate the width of your sleeves as for the body.
The sleeves are worked with 1 strand (and only the rib in the beginning is made with 2 strands)! It helps to achieve a very transparent and open effect.
Work in rows. Cast on 58 sts (or as many sts as you need for a desired width of your sleeve) on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with 2 strands of Alpaca 661. Work 3cm – 10 rows (1 ½ inches) with rib (k2, p2). Switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and continue to work in stockinng st until you get the desired length of the sleeves. Remember the knitting gauge. When you are satisfied with the length, cast off loosely.
Colorway:
Rows 1-10 (rib) – 2 strands of Alpaca 661
Rows 11-110 – same color way as for the body, but work with 1 strand of yarn.
111-114 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Alpaca 659
115-122 (8 rows) – 1 strand of Alpaca 655
To start make a slip knot and insert the hook in the first sc of the crochet detail, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull yarn through both lps (1st sc is done). Continue with sc in 32 next sts (you may make shoulders wider or shorter), fasten off. Sew another shoulder in the same way.
The sides will be sewn together with mattress stitch (you will work on the right side. Because my sweater has an ombre effect, I used yarn tails of different colors to sew sides together – dark yarn for dark parts of the body and light yarn for light parts. Leave the necessary length open on the top side for arm openings (the same on both sides!), so your sleeves can fit through!
Sew the sides of the sleeves with mattress st in the same way as you did for the sides of the body.
Now you should sew the sleeves into the arm openings. Position sleeves into the arm openings (right sides face each other) and center the seams on the body and the sleeve. Pin the sleeve to the body with a few sewing pins. Then attach the sleeve with crochet slip stitches using 1 strand of Alpaca 655 and crochet hook 2.5mm (C). Don’t pull the stitches too tight, and don’t let them be too loose at the same time. The fabric should not warp and the size of arm opening should stay the same after the sleeves are attached.
Weave all yarn tails into the seams. They may look a bit rough but both yarns are very soft, so the seam is not too visible and doesn’t spoil the sweater at all.
Congratulations!!! Your Blue Feather Sweater is finished!! Almost… You should only add beads to the crocheted detail along the neck opening. I used the same yarn as for crocheted part of the body and sewed beads on the front part only (in two rows).
That’s it! I hope this tutorial will work well for you and can’t wait to see your finished sweaters!!
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Important Notes
- The body of my sweater is made with stripes: some of them are made with 2 strands of alpaca and others - with1 strand of mohair. I wanted to achieve a structural effect of dense fabric alternating with very airy and transparent parts. But the sleeves are made with 1 strand only. You can of course make the whole sweater with 1 strand of yarn. Then you will need less yarn than me.
- If you are used to knit sweaters in one-piece with circular or double pointed needles, please, keep in mind that there are many color changes and you will have many yarn tails which should be woven in. I am not a master of weaving tails into transparent knitted fabric. That’s why I worked the body and sleeves on straight needles and then sewed all parts together with matress stitch. And wove tail into the seams.
- You can use any colors for this sweater. You are not really limited as Rhythm line by Scheepjes has many absolutely gorgeous shades.
Size
Tutorial is written for one size (S): body - 60cm (24”) x 59cm (35 ½”); sleeves - 16 cm (6 1/2”) x 49cm (19 ½”)But you can easily adjust its width and height and calculate the amount of stitches using a very simple formula below.
You will need:
- Lace yarn. I used Alpaca Rhythm and Mohair Rhythm by Scheepjes in following colors (one skein of each) – 126g in total:
Alpaca Rhythm: 661 (25g – whole skein), 662 (9g), 655 (9g), 656 (11g), 657 (11g), 659 (17g).
NOTE: If you decide to make other size than mine, you will obviously need more (or less) yarn. 11 skeins (in listed colors) are 275g of yarn in total. This is twice more than I used for my sweater and it should be enough for larger sweater. Maybe you will only need 1 more skein of Alpaca 661.
Rhythm yarn (both Alpaca and Mohair) is available on Deramores* and Wool Warehouse*(international shipping), Paradise Fibers* (US) and on Scheepjes.com (NL)
- Needles size 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 18 sts x 25 rows in stocking st for 10 x 10 cm (4" x 4"). Needles size 3 mm/US 2.5 - for rib only.
- Crochet hook 3.25mm (D) for tiny crocheted detail along the neck opening and hook 2.5mm (C) for attatching the sleeves.
- Tapestry needle to put your sweater together.
- Approx. 110-120 beads for decoration of neck opening (2 rows of beads on front). If you would like to decorate front and back, you will need double amount of the beads.
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Stitch guide and Abbreviations
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern.st(s) - stitch(es)
*…* - *crochet/knit following directions* as many times as indicated
sl st (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
k - knit stitch
p – purl stitch
rib – ribbing
RS - right side
WS - wrong side
stocking st
mattress st
cast on - I prefer so called "Italian cast on" as it makes the edge more elastic with a fabric look.
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INSTRUCTIONS
Add this tutorial to your Ravelry QueueCopyright LillaBjornCrochet 2015. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
How to calculate the stitches
If you need to make the sweater of another size – please, use the gauge to calculate correct amount of stitches. Please, note that due to absence of arm openings, the body should be a bit oversized.You can use this simple formula: (desired width in cm) / 10 x 18 (gauge for 10cm) + 2 side sts
Or: (desired width in inches) / 4 x 18 (gauge for 4") + 2 side sts
Examples:
1. You need 70cm width. Use the formula: 70/10x18 = 126 sts + 2 side sts = 128 sts in total.
2. You need 26" width: 26/4x18 = 117 sts + 2 side sts = 119 sts in total.
And if you want a longer sweater - you can just knit more rows (and make some of the stripes wider according to your taste). For example, if you you want to make your sweater 10cm (4") longer - you should add 24 rows. And it's 2 extra rows to 12 stripes.
BODY (front and back are identical)
The size of my (sweater’s) body is 60cm (24”) - width and 59cm (35 ½”) - height (blocked and including crocheted detail along the neck opening). This sweater is designed with a little bit oversized fit. So please, keep it in mind while calculating the sts.NOTE: the 1st st in the beginning of every row is slipped on the needle unworked.
Work in rows. Cast on 114 sts (or as many sts as you need for a desired width of your sweater) on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with 2 strands of Alpaca 661. Work 3cm – 10 rows (1 ½ inches) with rib (k2, p2). Switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work in stocking st until you get the desired length of your sweater. Remember the knitting gauge. When you are satisfied with the length, cast off loosely.
Here is my color way:
Rows 1-10 (rib) – 2 strands of Alpaca 661
Rows 11-16 (6 rows) – continue with 2 strands of Alpaca 661
Rows 17-20 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 682
Rows 21-22 (2 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 661
Rows 23-32 (10 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 682
Rows 33-38 (6 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 662
Rows 39-40 (2 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 677
Rows 41-42 (2 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 662
Rows 43-52 (10 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 677
Rows 53-56 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 682
Rows 57-64 (8 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 657
Rows 65-72 (8 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 676
Rows 73-74 (2 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 657
Rows 75-78 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 656
Rows 79-82 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 676
Rows 83-86 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 656
Rows 87-90 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 659
Rows 91-98 (8 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 679
Rows 99-102 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 659
Rows 103-104 (2 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 679
Rows 105-110 (6 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Rows 111-112 (2 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 659
Rows 113-116 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Rows 117-120 (4 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 655
Rows 121-122 (2 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Rows 113-128 (6 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 679
Rows 129-132 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Rows 133-138 (6 rows) – 2 strands of Alpaca 655
Rows 139-142 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Mohair 675
Crochet detail along the neck opening:
After casting off the upper edge of your sweater will curl. But the crocheted detail will help to fix it.
Work on right side with 1 strand of Alpaca 659 and crochet hook 3.25mm (D). Try to adjust your gauge and don’t crochet too tight or too loose. The width of the crocheted detail should be the same as the body’s width.
NOTE: ch1/ch2 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as sc/dc.
Row 1 (RS). Insert the hook in a st on the side, yo, pull up a loop, ch1. Make 1 sc in each of 112 sts on the edge of front/back inserting the hook in the sts of the last row of the body. Turn.
Row 2 (WS). Ch1, 112 sc, turn.
Row 3 (RS). Ch2, 112 dc, turn.
Row 4-5. Ch1, 112 sc, bind off.
SLEEVES
I have long and skinny arms so I feel comfortable with narrow and quite long sleeves. The size of sleeves of my sweater is: 32cm (13”) – width, 49cm (19 ½”) lengthPlease, use the same formula to calculate the width of your sleeves as for the body.
The sleeves are worked with 1 strand (and only the rib in the beginning is made with 2 strands)! It helps to achieve a very transparent and open effect.
Work in rows. Cast on 58 sts (or as many sts as you need for a desired width of your sleeve) on needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with 2 strands of Alpaca 661. Work 3cm – 10 rows (1 ½ inches) with rib (k2, p2). Switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6 and continue to work in stockinng st until you get the desired length of the sleeves. Remember the knitting gauge. When you are satisfied with the length, cast off loosely.
Colorway:
Rows 1-10 (rib) – 2 strands of Alpaca 661
Rows 11-110 – same color way as for the body, but work with 1 strand of yarn.
111-114 (4 rows) – 1 strand of Alpaca 659
115-122 (8 rows) – 1 strand of Alpaca 655
BLOCKING
Block the parts of your sweater before putting it together. Aplaca Rhythm and Mohair Rhythm are being blocked in a wonderful way! Simply pin the parts to blocking board (I don’t pin the ribbing part on the side), spray water over them (don’t press with towel!!) and leave it to dry. After drying the fabric will keep its shape perfectly!
Putting Sweater Together
Place the front and the back parts of your sweater on top of each other (right sides facing each other). First sew the shoulder parts together with sc – you will work through both layers with the same yarn used for crocheted detail (1 strand) and crochet hook 3.25mm (D).To start make a slip knot and insert the hook in the first sc of the crochet detail, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull yarn through both lps (1st sc is done). Continue with sc in 32 next sts (you may make shoulders wider or shorter), fasten off. Sew another shoulder in the same way.
The sides will be sewn together with mattress stitch (you will work on the right side. Because my sweater has an ombre effect, I used yarn tails of different colors to sew sides together – dark yarn for dark parts of the body and light yarn for light parts. Leave the necessary length open on the top side for arm openings (the same on both sides!), so your sleeves can fit through!
Sew the sides of the sleeves with mattress st in the same way as you did for the sides of the body.
Now you should sew the sleeves into the arm openings. Position sleeves into the arm openings (right sides face each other) and center the seams on the body and the sleeve. Pin the sleeve to the body with a few sewing pins. Then attach the sleeve with crochet slip stitches using 1 strand of Alpaca 655 and crochet hook 2.5mm (C). Don’t pull the stitches too tight, and don’t let them be too loose at the same time. The fabric should not warp and the size of arm opening should stay the same after the sleeves are attached.
Weave all yarn tails into the seams. They may look a bit rough but both yarns are very soft, so the seam is not too visible and doesn’t spoil the sweater at all.
Congratulations!!! Your Blue Feather Sweater is finished!! Almost… You should only add beads to the crocheted detail along the neck opening. I used the same yarn as for crocheted part of the body and sewed beads on the front part only (in two rows).
That’s it! I hope this tutorial will work well for you and can’t wait to see your finished sweaters!!
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Do you know that feeling? You carefully plan your next crochet projects, you have a clear idea in mind, try to schedule everything. And then one day you dive into your stash, see two balls of yarn and start something completely new. Immediately! Unfortunately my inspiration is usually sleeping during the daytime and suddenly wakes up when I am almost in bed. It happened this time. I had been crocheting for two nights and here is the result. My new Forest Fog Сowl! Free pattern will be released next week but in a meanwhile I would like to show you some pictures.
Update: FREE pattern of Forest Fog Cowl can be found HERE!
I am very addicted to structured crochet. It seems like I am just not able to create something flat. As you probably know, I also like to crochet in back or front loops and combine different stitches. But this time I decided to create a very simple pattern which can be handled by super beginners! I also think this cowl will be a great project to train your skills in crocheting in different loops and keeping the gauge under control. But I will tell more about this in next post, together with the instructions on how to make this cowl.
I combined two totally different yarns to make this cowl (the only similarity is that both are produced by Scheepjes). It’s Stonewashed XL (shade 842) and Maxima (shade 15). As far as I know Maxima is only available for purchase in the Netherlands. But you can easily replace it with Vinci. I had only one skein of Maxima, so I had to choose an appropriate shade of Stonewashed XL. But you can take absolutely any shades you like. You can purchase these yarns via Scheepjes (ships to the Netherlands and Belgium), Deramores* or Wool Warehouse* (international shipping) and Paradise Fibers* (US).
My plan was to make a short (and wide), one-layerd cowl. But when I run out of Stonewashed XL and weighted Maxima I was very surprised to see that exactly half of the skein was used. So I decided to add one more skein of Stonewashed XL in the same shade and continued crocheting – hoping that in the end I will have enough length to wear this cowl in two layers. And wo-hoo!! It was enough!
So using 2 skeins of Stonewashed XL and 1 skein of Maxima (or Vinci) you can either make one long cowl or two short cowls (for yourself and your partner). And yes! This cowl is unisex :) Let me introduce my dear husband Andrei who (surprisingly) agreed to be pictured for this post. Though (fortunately) he refuses to wear this cowl as “rasberry is not his cup of tea” and this cowl is all mine!
I am in love with its structure and play of the colors. Just look and those tiny changes and nuances. Aren’t they beautiful? I made tons of pictures last weekend. It was unusually warm and sunny for this time of the year. But not to overload you, I will show only four.
The cowl turned out to be very thick. And even if you make a short variant – it will be warm enough and protective against wind.
Don’t miss the free pattern of this cowl and stay tuned! If you haven’t subscribed to my blog yet – you can do it now. And you can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
*affiliate link
I am very addicted to structured crochet. It seems like I am just not able to create something flat. As you probably know, I also like to crochet in back or front loops and combine different stitches. But this time I decided to create a very simple pattern which can be handled by super beginners! I also think this cowl will be a great project to train your skills in crocheting in different loops and keeping the gauge under control. But I will tell more about this in next post, together with the instructions on how to make this cowl.
I combined two totally different yarns to make this cowl (the only similarity is that both are produced by Scheepjes). It’s Stonewashed XL (shade 842) and Maxima (shade 15). As far as I know Maxima is only available for purchase in the Netherlands. But you can easily replace it with Vinci. I had only one skein of Maxima, so I had to choose an appropriate shade of Stonewashed XL. But you can take absolutely any shades you like. You can purchase these yarns via Scheepjes (ships to the Netherlands and Belgium), Deramores* or Wool Warehouse* (international shipping) and Paradise Fibers* (US).
My plan was to make a short (and wide), one-layerd cowl. But when I run out of Stonewashed XL and weighted Maxima I was very surprised to see that exactly half of the skein was used. So I decided to add one more skein of Stonewashed XL in the same shade and continued crocheting – hoping that in the end I will have enough length to wear this cowl in two layers. And wo-hoo!! It was enough!
So using 2 skeins of Stonewashed XL and 1 skein of Maxima (or Vinci) you can either make one long cowl or two short cowls (for yourself and your partner). And yes! This cowl is unisex :) Let me introduce my dear husband Andrei who (surprisingly) agreed to be pictured for this post. Though (fortunately) he refuses to wear this cowl as “rasberry is not his cup of tea” and this cowl is all mine!
I am in love with its structure and play of the colors. Just look and those tiny changes and nuances. Aren’t they beautiful? I made tons of pictures last weekend. It was unusually warm and sunny for this time of the year. But not to overload you, I will show only four.
The cowl turned out to be very thick. And even if you make a short variant – it will be warm enough and protective against wind.
Don’t miss the free pattern of this cowl and stay tuned! If you haven’t subscribed to my blog yet – you can do it now. And you can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
*affiliate link
They are finally here and I am very pleased with them! The pattern of my new Christmas design is back from testers. And I am very happy to introduce Winter Pastels Ball! The pattern is available on Ravelry.
I have been experimenting with the shapes recently. When I started to use overlay crochet, I was mainly designing flat projects. But suddenly a feeling came that the possibilities are much bigger. Using overlay crochet you can create any image you like (you just need to figure out how to place overlaid stitches). But when different forms are added – then the possibilities are endless.
First time I stepped away from flat shape when I was designing a Starry Dream Hanging Ornament – 3D stuffed Christmas star. My favourite shape is circle, that’s why I mainly design mandalas, I guess. And then comes sphere. And I thought of designing a ball in overlay crochet technique. I used Sport weight cotton yarn (Catania by Schachenmayr) but you can use any yarn in any colours you like. The thickness of yarn and hook size will influence the finished size of the ball. Mine turned out to be 8 cm (3 ½ inches) in diameter, but yours can be smaller or bigger. That’s why I decided to stuff it instead of using plastic balls. When you use stuffing, you should not really care about the actual size of the finished ball. You can make it softer, or harder. You can also fill it will herbs and spices :)
TIP: You can fill a small plastic box (left from Kinder Surprise egg, for example) with dry rice or other grains, and put it inside the ball together with stuffing. And you will get a nice rattle for a baby.
Winter Pastels Balls can be used in a variety of ways. They are ideal as separate hanging decorations for a wall or Christmas tree. They can also be joined into a garland and decorate your home on different occasions and parties. To be honest it took me long time to select colors for this design, I ripped and redid it many times. And I stopped with winter pastels – which gave the name to the pattern. But these balls can be made in any colors (bright or calm) to suite your interior in the best way.
I tried to make the pattern easy to follow and included lots of progress pictures which explain the most difficult and tricky places. There are only common and not intricate stitches used in this pattern, but sometimes it might be tricky to figure out where to place them. It is not a good idea to leave this project for a bed time :) But if you follow the instructions carefully, attach new yarn in right places and keep the stitch count correct – your crocheting will be smooth and pleasant. And you will for sure learn lots of new things!
And this set of six balls is available in my Etsy shop.
If you haven’t subscribed to my blog yet – you can do it now. And you can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
I have been experimenting with the shapes recently. When I started to use overlay crochet, I was mainly designing flat projects. But suddenly a feeling came that the possibilities are much bigger. Using overlay crochet you can create any image you like (you just need to figure out how to place overlaid stitches). But when different forms are added – then the possibilities are endless.
First time I stepped away from flat shape when I was designing a Starry Dream Hanging Ornament – 3D stuffed Christmas star. My favourite shape is circle, that’s why I mainly design mandalas, I guess. And then comes sphere. And I thought of designing a ball in overlay crochet technique. I used Sport weight cotton yarn (Catania by Schachenmayr) but you can use any yarn in any colours you like. The thickness of yarn and hook size will influence the finished size of the ball. Mine turned out to be 8 cm (3 ½ inches) in diameter, but yours can be smaller or bigger. That’s why I decided to stuff it instead of using plastic balls. When you use stuffing, you should not really care about the actual size of the finished ball. You can make it softer, or harder. You can also fill it will herbs and spices :)
TIP: You can fill a small plastic box (left from Kinder Surprise egg, for example) with dry rice or other grains, and put it inside the ball together with stuffing. And you will get a nice rattle for a baby.
Winter Pastels Balls can be used in a variety of ways. They are ideal as separate hanging decorations for a wall or Christmas tree. They can also be joined into a garland and decorate your home on different occasions and parties. To be honest it took me long time to select colors for this design, I ripped and redid it many times. And I stopped with winter pastels – which gave the name to the pattern. But these balls can be made in any colors (bright or calm) to suite your interior in the best way.
I tried to make the pattern easy to follow and included lots of progress pictures which explain the most difficult and tricky places. There are only common and not intricate stitches used in this pattern, but sometimes it might be tricky to figure out where to place them. It is not a good idea to leave this project for a bed time :) But if you follow the instructions carefully, attach new yarn in right places and keep the stitch count correct – your crocheting will be smooth and pleasant. And you will for sure learn lots of new things!
And this set of six balls is available in my Etsy shop.
If you haven’t subscribed to my blog yet – you can do it now. And you can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
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