Please, also check Part 1 of this CAL.
I was asked several times how many squares should be done with each pattern during this CAL. I suggest that you make only one (and 9 in total) and join them in one large square which will be used as a front decoration for a fabric pillow cover. But you can also make two squares by each pattern and as a result you will get two decorations which you can use as front and back for your pillow. And you will have the whole crocheted pillow in the end of this CAL. So, it's really up to you!
Please, check Dutch version of this tutorial translated by Dianne Baan HERE. Tutorial in German was translated by Libminna and is available HERE. And you can find a video tutorial for this block in the end of this post. It was kindly recorded by Esther Dijkstra from It’s all in a Nutshell.
I think that the most difficult about overlay crochet is to read the pattern correctly (and to write them, as well!). Projects in overlay crochet, big or small, always need a lot of attention: you should read the pattern and count the stitches carefully. It is very important to attach the yarn in the right stitch on every round because this will influence the position of all overlaid stitches. You should also clearly understand where exactly you should “anchor” overlay stitches. When working in overlay crochet you usually crochet background in back loops and front loops stay “free” – here you will attach overlaid stitches. Please, check more information about it HERE.
You should be careful with skipping stitches behind the overlaid ones. Please, be aware that the amount of skipped stitches is NOT always the same as the amount of overlaid stitches. You can read more information about this HERE.
And just a small remind that I suggest to join new yarn by simply pulling it in indicated stitch and making one or two chain stitches (which will count as the 1st sc, hdc or dc accordingly). And I also suggest that you join your rounds with a needle join, which will help to make joining sections invisible! You can read detailed information about these two aspects HERE and HERE. If you are not sure how to find front and back loops of the stitches, please, read THIS post.
Let's begin with the second block?
You will need:
- Yarn in 6 colors. I used yarn “Cotton Light” by DROPS (50g/1.76 oz., 105 m/115 yds.) Yarn weight: DK. Texture: 8 ply (11 wpi)
- Crochet hook 3,25 mm (D) or size needed to obtain acceptable gauge. (Please, feel free to choose another yarn weights and the hook to get larger or smaller square).
- Scissors, tapestry needle to weave in ends (I prefer crochet hook for weaving in).
The size of the finished square depends on the yarn and hook you use. My square is approx. 12.5 cm (5 inches) large.
Stitch guide and Abbreviations
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
st(s) - stitch(es)
ch - chain
sp(s) - space(s)
yo - yarn over
lp(s) - loop(s)
FL - front loop(s)
BL - back loop(s)
NJ - needle join
sk - skip st(s)
*…* - *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
sl st (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc (half double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through all three lps.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
tr (treble crochet) – yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* three times.
tr3tog (treble crochet 3 together) – *yo twice, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* 3 times in the same st, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook.
sc inc – crochet two sc in the same st.
dc inc – crochet two dc in the same st.
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2015. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
Color Key: C1 – Yellow, C2 – Beige, C3 –
Rnd 1. Start with yarn C4.
Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as 1st dc) and 11 dc in magic ring; NJ in the 1st dc after ch2. (= 12 dc)
Rnd 2. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in any dc of rnd 1. Work this rnd in BL!
*1 dc inc in each st of rnd 1 (the 1st dc of the rnd will be ch2)* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (= 24 dc)
Rnd 3. Change to yarn C6. Attach yarn in 1st dc (BL) of any dc inc of rnd 2. Work this rnd in BL! All tr’s of each tr3tog are made in the same st of rnd 1. Please, make sure that your tr3tog's are made to the height of the working round.
*1 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 tr3tog (FL) in the directly underlying st of rnd 1, sk no sts on rnd 2, 2 sc, 1 sc inc* 6 times, NJ in the 1st tr3tog of the rnd after ch1. (= 36 sts)
Rnd 4. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in a st of rnd 3 (BL) that comes just after any tr3tog. Work this rnd in BL! Please, note that dc increases are made in tr3tog's and the 1st sc of each sc inc of rnd 3.
*2 dc (the 1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 1 dc inc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (= 48 dc’s)
Note: if your chain stitches are too loose, please, feel free to make ch3 instead of each ch4.
*2 sc on rnd 4 (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), ch4, 1 sc (FL) in the underlying tr3tog of rnd 3, ch4, sk 6 sts on rnd 4* 6 times, finish with a sl st in the same st of rnd 4 where you attached yarn. Fasten off, pull both yarn tails to the wrong side and secure them with a knot. (= 18 sc + 12 ch4-sps)
*4 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 sc inc, 3 sc, 1 sc in a space before next dc* 6 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 60 sts)
*9 hdc (the 1st hdc of the rnd will be ch2), 2 hdc in next sc (which was made between dc’s)* 6 times, NJ in the 1st hdc of the rnd after ch2. (= 66 hdc’s)
Note: This rnd is a bit tricky, so please read the instructions carefully before you start. Every repeat section contains two dc. And you should skip no sts on rnd 7 behind the 1st dc, and then skip 1 st behind the 2nd dc. And, please, try to keep the gauge of dc's under control: they should be neither too tight nor too loose and always made to the height of the working round!
*5 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 dc (FL) in the 1st st of underlying inc of rnd 6, sk no sts on rnd 7, 5 sc, 1 dc (FL) in the underlying sc of rnd 6 (made in space between dc’s), sk 1 st on rnd 7* 6 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 72 sts)
*6 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 2 tr in next st, ch2, 2 tr in next st, 2 tr, 2 dc, 1 hdc* 4 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 80 sts and 4 ch2-sps)
Rnd 10. Change to yarn С3. Attach yarn in the 1st sc (BL) of any group of six of rnd 9. Work this rnd in BL!
*12 sc (the 1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), 1 hdc, 2 dc in next ch2-sp, ch2, 2dc in the same ch2-sp, 1 hdc, 6 sc* 4 times, NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (= 96 sts + 4 ch2-sps)
Congratulations! Your first granny square from Circles of the Sun CAL 2015 is now finished. Don't forget to share it on Facebook and Ravelry. You can find a pin for this block on Pinterest - please, feel free to repin it and share with your friends!
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And here is a video tutorial for Block 2 kindly recorded for Circles of the Sun CAL by Esther Dijkstra from It's All in a Nutshell! Have fun! :)
See you next Friday!