Getting the right gauge (or tension) helps make sure your finished crochet project turns out the right size. For some projects it’s not a big deal, but for garments it’s important — keeping your gauge under control will help your sweater or cardigan fit just right.
Even for home décor pieces like blankets and pillows, gauge still matters. If your tension is off, you might end up using more yarn than expected.
Every pattern usually lists its recommended gauge, and for brioche crochet, it’s most often based on a brioche stitch pattern. It can sometimes feel confusing to figure out how many stitches to start with for your gauge swatch, or which stitches to repeat. A simple rule of thumb: start with a few extra stitches and work a few more rows or rounds than the gauge sample in the pattern — this gives you enough room to measure accurately.
When your pattern gives the gauge for a brioche stitch pattern, you can make a universal brioche gauge swatch. This type of swatch works beautifully for checking gauge in almost any brioche crochet project.
Abbreviations (US terms)
beg begin(ning)
ch chain stitch
ch-sp(s) chain space(s)
ch2-sp(s) chain 2 space(s)
cont continue
lp(s) loop(s)
opp opposite
rep(s) repeat(s)
RS right side
sp(s) space(s)
st(s) stitch(es)
prev previous
yo yarn over the hook
WS wrong side
Stitch guide
BPdc back post double crochet: yo, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice.
dc double crochet: yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] 2 times.
FPdc front post double crochet: yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice.
sc single crochet: insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook.
Pattern repeats
[…] repeat instructions inside […] as many times as indicated in the pattern.
*…; rep from * repeat after * as many times as indicated in the pattern.
(…) work several sts in/around the same st (…) work several sts in/around the same st
Pattern Notes
- One color is used for one row; do not cut yarn at the end of the rows but carry it up to next rounds on WS.
- FPdc/BPdc are always worked around sts of same color from 2 rows below.
- Ch-sps behind front post stitches will always be skipped.
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Instructions for Brioche gauge swatch
Copyright. An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Taťána Kuprijančik). Copyright 2014-2025. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed, or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Using Yarn A, begin with a relaxed foundation cord and make more stitches than the gauge width (for example, if the gauge for width is 18 sts, make at least 25 foundation stitches). The number of foundation stitches should be odd.
Row 1 (RS): Cont with Yarn A. Ch2 (does not count as a st), 1dc in first st, [ch2, skip next st, 1dc in next st] rep across, drop and secure lp, do not turn – 25 sts counting every dc and ch2-sp as 1 st.
Row 2 (RS): Staying on RS, change to Yarn B by inserting hook in first st of prev row, grab Yarn B and draw up a lp. Ch1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), 1sc in first dc, [1dc in skipped st of Row 1 in front of ch2-sp, ch2, skip next dc of opp color] rep across to last st, 1sc in last dc (change back to Yarn A by putting lp back on hook before last yo, yo with Yarn A and pull through all 3 lps on hook, do not cut Yarn B), turn.
Row 3 (WS): With Yarn A. Ch1, 1BPdc around first st of same color below behind work, [ch2, skip next st of opp color, 1BPdc around next st of same color below behind work] rep across, drop and secure lp, do not turn.
Row 4 (WS): Change to Yarn B (as at the beg of Row 2, do not cut Yarn A – here and all foll rows when you need to change color at beg of row), 1sc in first st, 1BPdc around next st of same color below behind work, [ch2, skip next st of opp color, 1BPdc around next st of same color behind work] rep to last st, 1sc in last st (change back to Yarn A as at the end of Row 2, do not cut B – here and all foll rows when you need to change color at end of row).
On remaining rows work front post and back post stitches around sts of same color from 2 rows below; sts of the opp color and ch2-sps will be skipped.
Row 5 (RS): With Yarn A. Ch1, 1FPdc around first st of same color, [ch2, skip next st, 1FPdc] rep across, drop and secure lp, do not turn.
Row 6 (RS): Change to Yarn B, ch1, 1sc in first st, 1FPdc, [ch2, skip next st, 1FPdc] rep to last st, 1sc in last st (change to Yarn A), turn.
Row 7 (WS): With Yarn A. Ch1, 1BPdc around first st of same color, [ch2, skip next st, 1BPdc] rep across, drop and secure lp, do not turn.
Row 8 (WS): Change to Yarn B, ch1, 1sc in first st, 1BPdc, [ch2, skip next st, BPdc] rep to last st, 1sc in last st (change to Yarn A), turn.
Repeat Rows 5–8 until your swatch has more rows than the height listed in the pattern’s gauge. For example, if the pattern says the gauge height is 18 rows, make at least 25 rows in your swatch — this gives you enough fabric to measure accurately.
When you’re done, fasten off both yarns and get ready to block your swatch before measuring.
Measuring Your Gauge Swatch
Once your swatch is finished, blocked, and completely dry, lay it flat and place a measuring tape across it horizontally and vertically to see how many stitches and rows fit into 10cm/4in.
To check the width, count every vertical post on the right side of your swatch.
For the height, it’s usually easier to measure on the wrong side — each stripe there represents one row.
If your gauge swatch doesn’t match the gauge listed in the pattern, don’t worry! You can easily adjust it by:
- Switching to a larger or smaller hook, or
- Changing your tension — crochet a little looser or tighter, depending on what’s needed.
Happy swatching!
Tatsiana
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