Fade to Light Jacket MAL: Part 3. Sleeves

Hello and welcome to Part 3 of Fade to Light Jacket make-a-long. Today we will be making the sleeves. If you missed previous parts, please check them here: reveal, sizing and gauge, short rows (Part 1) and raglan increases (Part 2).

Usually when we are making a top-down garment, after separation for body and sleeves we continue with the lower body. But for the Fade to Light Jacket we will leave the body aside for a while and will move to the sleeves now.

The reason is we are using two Scheepjes Whirl Fine Art* cakes for the bigger sizes. Using one Whirl per sleeve will help create a long, smooth and gradient color change.

I have a recorded new video explaining tips and tricks.

Complete Fade to Light Jacket pattern in one print-friendly pdf file is available for purchase HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures.

And here are written instructions. Hope you will have fun!

DUTCH translation is available HERE . Translated by Carmen Jorissen of New Leaf Designs

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INSTRUCTIONS

Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2020. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

SLEEVES (both alike)

Common Note for both options: Sleeves are worked back and forth, alternating RS and WS. Rounds are joined with ss in first st or sp.

Option 1 – two Whirls

Use one Whirl for each sleeve. With right side facing you, attach Yarn A with ss in approx. central ch of underarm already occupied with sc.

Round 1 – RS: You will need to make decreases in the corners for a correct stitch count. Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), 1sc in same st as join, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to last sp, ch1, ss in first sc, turn – - (-, -, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 88, 96) sts for the sleeve

Round 2 – WS: Ch1, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] around, ss in first sp, turn. Round 3 – RS: Ch1, [1sc in next st, ch1, sk sp] around, ss in first sc, turn.

Repeat Rounds 2-3 until approx. - (-, -, 72, 80, 80, 88, 88, 96, 96) g left per Whirl.

To shape the sleeve, make sc2tog over 2 sc (ch1-sp between them will be skipped) in line with underarm in every 12th or 14th round, depending on how wide you want your sleeves. Finish with round 2 on WS, turn. Stitch count should be multiple of four.

Round 4 – RS: Ch1 (change to Yarn B, cut A), [1sc, 1SPsc, 1sc, ch1, sk sp] around, ss in first sc, turn.

Repeat rounds 2-3 until desired length of the sleeve. Continue to shape the sleeve if needed. Fasten off. Proceed to mosaic pattern of the lower body.

Option 2 – one Whirl

With right side facing you, attach Yarn B with ss in approx. central ch of underarm already occupied with sc.

Round 1 – RS: You will need to make decreases in the corners for a correct stitch count. Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), 1sc in same st as join, 1SPsc, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, 1SPsc, 1sc] x 14 (15, 16, 17, -, -, -, -, -, -) times, ch1, ss in first sc, turn – 60 (64, 68, 72, -, -, -, --, -) sts for the sleeve.

Round 2 – WS: Ch1, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] around, ss in first sp, turn.

Round 3 – RS: Ch1, [1sc in next st, ch1, sk sp] around, ss in first sc, turn.

Repeat Rounds 2-3 until desired length. To shape the sleeve, make sc2tog over 2 sc (ch1-sp between them will be skipped) in line with underarm in every 12th or 14th round, depending on how wide you want your sleeves.

Fasten off. Proceed to mosaic pattern of the lower body.

That was Part 3. See you next week!

You can purchase a complete pattern in one print-friendly pdf file HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures.

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Fade to Light Jacket MAL: Part 2. Raglan increases

Hello and welcome to Part 2 of the Fade to Light Jacket make-a-long. Today we will talk about raglan increases and will continue growing our yoke. In the very end of this part we will divide yoke for body and sleeves, and I will show you the ways how to adjust measurements for your own bust. If this is the first time you hear about Fade to Light Jacket MAL, please also check blog posts about reveal, gauge and short rows.

DUTCH translation is available HERE. Translated by Carmen Jorissen of New Leaf Designs

As you already know, Fade to Light Jacket is a top-down garment. Last week we made short rows and this week we will continue “building” raglan lines. We have four raglan lines (two on front and two on the back) – they separate front and back from sleeves.

Raglan increases consist of several sets, please, follow instructions for your own size carefully. You can either use stitch markers to stay on track with increases, or write everything you made down on paper. Or you can also use this handy tool. It’s called Row Counter Ring (by KnitPro company). You can find it in local Scheepjes shops, on Wool Warehouse* (UK), or Amazon*.

In the video below I explain how to use it for Fade to Light Jacket, but I am sure it will be very helpful for all your future projects too.

And just a reminder, complete Fade to Light Jacket pattern is available for purchase on HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures.

***

INSTRUCTIONS

Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2020. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

INCREASES for raglan

Note: If you are using two Whirls, continue alternating cakes after every two rows. The yarn will be changed on the last yarn over of the row to complete final st. There will be floats of yarn along one of the edges.

INC SET 1 – 2 rows

Row 1 – RS (inc for body and sleeves): Ch1, 1sc in first st, *[ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st; rep from * 3 more times, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn.

Row 2 – WS (no inc): Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn.

Repeat Rows 1-2: 2 (3, 5, 5, 5, 7, 5, 6, 6, 8) more times.

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 55 (63, 71, 71, 75, 83, 79, 83, 83, 95) sts for back, 29 (33, 37, 37, 39, 43, 41, 43, 43, 49) sts for each front and 27 (31, 39, 41, 41, 49, 43, 47, 47, 57) sts for each sleeve.

INC SET 2 – 4 rows

Rows 2-4 (no inc): Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn.

Repeat Rows 1-4: 5 (5, 4, 4, 5, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6) more times.

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 79 (87, 91, 91, 99, 103, 107, 111, 111, 123) sts for back, 41 (45, 47, 47, 51, 53, 55, 57, 57, 63) sts for each front and 51 (55, 59, 61, 65, 69, 71, 75, 75, 85) sts for each sleeve.

INC SET 3 – 2 rows (for M, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X and 5X only!)

Row 1 – RS (inc for front and back):

Front: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp,

Sleeve: 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until next rm,

Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp,

Sleeve: 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until next rm,

Front: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn.

Row 2 – WS (no inc): Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn.

For 4X size ony! Rep INC SET 3 once more.

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 79 (87, 91, 95, 99, 107, 111, 115, 119, 127) sts for back, 41 (45, 47, 49, 51, 55, 57, 59, 61, 65) sts for each front and 51 (55, 59, 61, 65, 69, 71, 75, 75, 85) sts for each sleeve.

At this point yoke should measure approx. 21.5 (22.5: 22.5: 24.25: 25.25: 26.5: 29.25: 30.5: 31.5: 33.2) cm/ 8.5 (9: 9: 9.5: 10: 10.5: 11.5: 12: 12.4: 13) in. Depth of the yoke should be measured from mid sleeve down along the front’s edge (see schematics on page 9)

SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES

Separation row – RS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, *[ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to next rm, ch7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 13, 13), sk sp with rm, sk all sts for a sleeve and next sp with rm, 1sc in next st; rep from * once more, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn – 175 (191, 199, 211, 219, 235, 247, 255, 267, 283) sts for the lower body, including two underarm chains.

Next row – WS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end (count every underarm ch as sp or st) making one increase on each front before underarm by working (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in same st – 179 (195, 203, 215, 223, 239, 251, 259, 271, 287) sts for the lower body.

LOWER body

Row 1 – RS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn.

Row 2 – WS: Repeat Row 1 once more.

That was Part 2. See you next week!

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Fade to Light Jacket MAL. Part 1: short rows

Hello and welcome to Part 1 of the Fade to Light Jacket make-a-long. Today we will talk about choosing the right size and short rows. Before you start working on this jacket, please, make an accurate gauge swatch first. You can find all details about yarn amounts and gauge HERE.

There are two options to follow make-a-long. You can either join it for free here on my blog: every Friday new portion of instructions will be published online. Or you can purchase a complete pattern in one print-friendly pdf file HERE on Ravelry or HERE on Etsy (both in English with US terms, and Dutch). Please, note that these files only include written instructions and no progress pictures.

Below you will find complete information about the pattern, including material list, abbreviations and pattern notes. And today we will start making the yoke – with short rows.

I have recorded a video for you explaining how to choose correct size for yourself and how to work short rows in crochet: both in theory and practice.

Hope you will have fun!

DUTCH translation is available HERE. Translated by Carmen Jorissen of New Leaf Designs

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Materials:

Yarn A: Scheepjes Whirl Fine Art (50% Superfine Merino, 25% Micro fibre, 25% Acrylic; 220g/460 m/503 yards)

Yarn B: Scheepjes Merino Soft (50% Superfine Merino, 25% Micro fibre, 25% Acrylic; 50g/105m/115 yards)

Note: depending on your gauge and crochet style you might need more yarn! For yarn amounts see Yarn Choice section

4.5mm crochet hook

Yarn needle to weave in tails, stitch markers or waste yarn, blocking tools

Find all yarn in your local Scheepjes shop, or purchase it online via international retailers:

Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (UK, please check shipping guidelines before placing your order, as there might be limitations due to COVID situation)

Caro’s Atelier* (NL)

Taemombo (US and Canada)

Sizes:

XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Finished bust circumference:

91.5 (99.5: 103.5: 109.5: 113.5: 121.5: 127.5: 131.5: 137.5: 145.5) cm

36 (39: 40.7: 43: 44.7: 47.8: 50.2: 51.8: 54: 57.3) in

Abbreviations (US crochet terms)

beg beginning

BOR beginning of the row/round

ch chain stitch

corr corresponding

inc increase

sc single crochet

sk skip

ss slip stitch

st(s) stitch(es)

sp(s) space(s)

yo yarn over the hook

pm place marker

prev previous

rm raglan marker

RS right side

WS wrong side

Special Stitches

SPsc (spike single crochet stitch): insert hook under ch1-sp from 2 rows below, yo, draw up a loop to the height of the current st, yo, pull through 2 loops.

(…) several stitches inside (…) made in one st

Pattern repeats:

[…] repeat instruction inside […] as many times as indicated in the pattern.

*…; rep instruction after * as many times as indicated in the pattern.

Gauge:

20 sts and 18 rows to 10 x 10cm (4 x 4in) using 4.5mm hook – slightly blocked.

Pattern for gauge (every sc and every ch1-sp counts as a stitch):

Row 1. Ch30, 1sc in second ch from hook, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] to end, turn – 29 sts

Row 2. Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn.

Rows 3-25. Repeat Row 2.

Pattern notes:

Fade to Light Jacket is designed to fit with 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) of positive ease at the bust and 1.25-2 in (3-5 cm) of positive ease at the upper arm. The jacket is worked seamlessly from top down. First some short rows are worked back and forth to raise the back neck. Then the yoke with raglan increases is worked in rows to separation for body and sleeves. The lower body with mosaic pattern is worked in rows to bottom. Sleeves are worked top down. The length of the body and sleeves is easily adjustable.

Yarn choice

Fade to Light Jacket pattern was designed especially for Scheepjes Whirl Fine Art and Merino Soft yarns. Use one Whirl cake for size XXS-S, choose between one or two Whirl cakes for size M, and two Whirls are recommended for sizes L-5X. The rest of the yarn is Merino Soft.

Alternatively, Fade to Light Jacket can be worked with Scheepjes Merino Soft Brush yarn instead of Whirl Fine Art: one Whirl is replaced with 5 skeins of Merino Brush (and two Whirls are replaced with 9 skeins of Merino Brush accordingly).

The yoke begins with Whirl and solid shade of Merino Soft is added later for the sleeves and mosaic lower body. You can either start working with light or dark tail of Whirl.

You will need 500 (550, 600, 620, 680, 740, 790, 840, 890, 940)g of yarn, or 1 (1, 1, 1(2), 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) Whirl Fine Art cakes and 6 (7, 8, 8(4), 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) balls of Merino Soft

INSTRUCTIONS

Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2020. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!

YOKE

To begin: With Yarn A. Ch92 (100: 100: 104: 112: 112: 124: 124: 124: 136) loosely.

Set up Row (WS):

Front: sc in second ch from hook, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] x9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12, 13) times, ch1 (pm), sk next ch,

Sleeve: 1sc in next ch, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] x4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) times,

Back: ch1 (pm), sk next ch, 1sc in next ch, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] 15 (17, 17, 17, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21, 23) times, ch1 (pm), sk next ch,

Sleeve: 1sc in next ch, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] x4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7) times,

Front: ch1 (pm), sk next ch, 1sc in next ch, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] to end, turn.

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 31 (35, 35, 35, 39, 39, 43, 43, 43, 47) sts for back, 19 (21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25, 27) sts for each front and 9 (9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15) sts for each sleeve.

Set up row

SHORT ROWS (shaping back)

Common Note: Move raglan markers (rm) up to corr sps on next rows as you progress. For easy counting on short rows, mark same st as ss on the edge of every short row – use different color than raglan marker.

!IMPORTANT! If you are using two Whirls you’ll need to start alternating them on Short row 1 for a long gradient color change – find instructions in the pattern. Make sure that floats of yarn stay on WS.

TIP: Because fabric is reversible, it might be helpful to mark RS with waste yarn.

Short row 1 (inc for back and sleeves)

Back: RS. Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), 1sc in first sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] x22 (24, 24, 25, 27, 27, 30, 30, 30, 33) times, ch1 (mark as BOR – use different color! Change to another Whirl for two Whirls option), sk next sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk next sp,

Sleeve, Back, Sleeve: (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on WS side, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR (move rm to corr sp), ch1 (pm for BOR, change to another Whirl for 2 Whirl option), 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc in next st] until last sp and sc left before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on RS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR.

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 35 (39, 39, 39, 43, 43, 47, 47, 47, 51) sts for back, 19 (21, 21, 21, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25, 27) sts for each front and 11 (11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 17) sts for each sleeve.

Use marker of a different color for BOR (beginning of the row)

Move raglan markers to corresponding spaces as you progress

Increases before and after raglan marker

Short row 2 (inc for back and front only!)

Back: ch1 (change to another Whirl for two Whirls option, pm for BOR), sk sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp,

Sleeve: 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until next rm making sc in same st as ss when you reach it,

Front, Sleeve, Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on WS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR, ch1 (pm for BOR), sk sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk next sp,

Sleeve: 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until next rm making sc in same st as ss when you reach it,

Front, Sleeve, Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on RS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR .

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 39 (43, 43, 43, 47, 47, 51, 51, 51, 55) sts for back, 21 (23, 23, 23, 25, 25, 27, 27, 27, 29) sts for each front and 11 (11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 17) sts for each sleeve.

Change to another Whirl for two Whirls option

Work into the same stitch as slip stitch (when you reach it)

Short row 3 (inc for body and sleeves)

Back: ch1 (change to another Whirl for two Whirl option, pm for BOR), sk sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk sp,

Sleeve: (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st,

Front, Sleeve, Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times making sc in same st as ss when you reach it, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on WS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until BOR, ch1 (pm for BOR), sk sp, 1sc in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, ch1 (pm), sk next sp,

Sleeve: (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] until last sp and sc before next rm, ch1, sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st,

Front, Sleeve, Back: ch1 (pm), sk sp, (1sc, ch1, 1sc) in next st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) times making sc in same st as ss when you reach it, ch1, sk sp, 1ss in next sc, turn and continue on RS, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] across rest of sts all the way to the left front making sc in same st as ss when you reach them.

Remove BOR and short rows markers; raglan markers should stay in their place.

Next row - WS: Ch1, 1sc in first st, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] across making sc in same st as ss when you reach them and moving rm to corr sps.

You’ll have one ch1-sp sp in every raglan seam (marked), 43 (47, 47, 47, 51, 51, 55, 55, 55, 59) sts for back, 23 (25, 25, 25, 27, 27, 29, 29, 29, 31) sts for each front and 15 (15, 15, 17, 17, 17, 19, 19, 19, 21) sts for each sleeve.

That's everything for today. See you next week, and we will continue with raglan increases.

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Fade to Light Jacket MAL: gauge information

Hello and welcome to the Fade to Light Jacket make-a-long (MAL). Today we’ll talk about the gauge and its importance in crochet garments. First bit of instructions will follow later this week. If you haven’t seen Fade to Light Jacket, please check this blog post full of reveal pictures and general information about sizing and yarn requirements. For translation to other languages, please use a Translate button on this blog.

As you might already know, Fade to Light Jacket MAL is about making a top down crochet garment with raglan sleeves. Every crochet pattern, regardless of its shape or kind, always has a listed gauge (or tension). The gauge gives you an idea of how many stitches and rows match in 10 cm/4 in. In other words it gives you an idea of the size.

In fact the gauge is important for every project: whether it’s a shawl or a blanket. But if you can skip it making a pillow, for example, for crochet garments the gauge is the most important bit.

Why? Because garment pattern instructions are always written for certain yarn weight, hook size, and gauge.

If you choose to live dangerously and don’t make a gauge swatch for your Fade to Light Jacket, you risk ending up with a totally different size than you meant to choose.

If you have less or more stitches/rows in 10 cm/4 in, your jacket will become bigger or smaller. And as a result, it won’t fit you.

PLEASE! Before you start making your Fade to Light Jacket, first make a gauge swatch.

The stitch pattern is very simple: only single crochet stitches and chains are used here (US crochet terms). And every sc and chain-space (a “small hole”), counts as a stitch.

Usually the patterns list the gauge before blocking. The gauge for Fade to Light Jacket is given after a slight block (you can stretch your gauge swatch with hands a little, but don’t pull it too much, as it will destroy the stitches).

What is interesting about Scheepjes Whirl Fine Art and Merino Soft yarns – they are quite stretchy. When you work your gauge swatch, don’t make it tight, as after blocking it will shrink back. It means that your gauge swatch before and after blocking will stay almost the same. So work it in a relaxed way, change to a bigger hook if needed. The stitches should look neat: not too loose, and not too tight.

I have made a short video where I am talking about the yarns and gauge for Fade to Light Jacket MAL:

The gauge for Fade to Light Jacket is 20 sts and 18 rows to 10 x 10cm (4 x 4in) using 4.5mm hook. Here is the stitch pattern for your gauge swatch (every sc and every ch1-sp counts as a stitch):

Row 1. Ch30, 1sc in second ch from hook, [ch1, sk next ch, 1sc in next ch] to end, turn – 29 sts

Row 2. Ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to end, turn.

Rows 3-25. Repeat Row 2.

Dutch below:

Stekenverhouding: 20 stn en 18 rijen meten 10 x 10 cm met 4,5 mm haaknaald – licht opgespannen. Patroon voor stekenverhouding (elke v en elke 1l-open telt als s):

Rij 1. 30l, 1v in 2e l vanaf naald, [1l, volg l oversl, 1v in volg l] tot eind, keer – 29 stn

Rij 2. 1l (doesn’t count as a st), 1v, [1l, open oversl, 1v] tot eind, keer.

Rijen 3-25. Herhaal Rij 2.

After 25 rows, your gauge swatch will be bigger than 10cm/4”. Take a ruler or measuring tape and measure your gauge in the middle of your gauge swatch. Don’t forget that every space counts as a stitch as well.

Success! :) See you on Friday. We will begin crocheting our Fade to Light Jacket. And I will show you how to make short rows.

Just to remind that general information about Fade to Light Jacket MAL is available HERE.

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Fade to Light Jacket make-a-long: Reveal

Have you ever made a crochet garment? Or have you ever thought about making one but you are afraid it won’t work because you have been crocheting blankets and shawls all your life? New make-a-long (MAL) might help you to overcome your fears and enter the exciting world of crochet sweaters and cardigans.

The idea of free MAL about creating a top down garment have been growing in my head for a very long time. For two years at least. Every time I release a new crochet sweater, I can hear and see comments from people doubting they can handle the pattern. And I can understand the fears. If you have never made a garment before, it might be scary to dive into the short rows, yoke increases, shaping and adjusting to your own needs. And I decided to design a simple raglan jacket to show you all steps - slowly, with progress pictures and explaining every tiny bit.

Colors used for a jacket above are Whirl Fine Art 650 Minimalism and Merino Soft 601 Pollock.

Fade to Light Jacket is designed to fit with 4-6" (10-15 cm) of positive ease at the bust and 1.25-2" (3-5 cm) of positive ease at the upper arm. The jacket is worked seamlessly from top down. First some short rows are worked back and forth to raise the back neck. Then the yoke with raglan increases is worked in rows to separation for body and sleeves. The lower body with mosaic pattern is worked in rows to bottom. Sleeves are worked top down. The length of the body and sleeves is easily adjustable.

Sizing

The jacket pattern is written for ten (!!) sizes: XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) with finished bust circumference: 91.5 (99.5: 103.5: 109.5: 113.5: 121.5: 127.5: 131.5: 137.5: 145.5) cm/ 36 (39: 40.7: 43: 44.7: 47.8: 50.2: 51.8: 54: 57.3)

To choose the size you need, please measure you bust at the widest point and add 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) for ease. Then see the numbers above and choose the closest size. If your measurement is in-between the sizes choose either a smaller one (if you want a more fitted look) or a bigger size (for an oversized fit).

In the picture below I am wearing size M while my actual size is S. So the jacket is slightly roomy for me, which I like. The colors for sample below are Whirl Fine Art 651 Impressionism and Merino Soft 655 Chagall.

Crochet jacket with a slightly oversized bit

Yarn choice

Fade to Light Jacket pattern was designed exclusively for Scheepjes Whirl Fine Art and Merino Soft yarns. Use one Whirl cake for size XXS-S, choose between one or two Whirl cakes for size M, and two Whirls are recommended for sizes L-5X. The rest of the yarn is Merino Soft.

With one Whirl cake you will get a faster color change for the yoke, and a complete fade of two colors in the mosaic pattern of the lower body. The sleeves will be solid. And with two Whirls for smaller sizes (M and L) the sleeves will get a long fade of colors (see picture above). Larger sizes will be something in between: half faded and half solid sleeves.

Here are examples for your inspiration.

Sandra Veneman (size L, two Whirls: Whirl Fine Art 654 Cubism and Merino Soft 609 Rembrandt)

Photo credit: Sandra Veneman

Esther Schippers (size 2X, two Whirls: Whirl Fine Art 657 Renaissance and Merino Soft 650 Velazquez)

Fade to Light Jacket by Esther Schippers

Photo credit: Esther Schippers

The yoke begins with Whirl and solid shade of Merino Soft is added later for the sleeves and mosaic lower body. You can either start working with light or dark tail of Whirl.

Laura Jackson made her jacket with both Merino Soft and Merino Soft Brush colors in size XS (Merino Soft 605 Hogarth and Merino Soft Brush 252 Toorop). She also added a tiny mosaic detail to the sleeves. Check details on her Ravelry page.

Photo credit: Laura Jackson

And here is my version with Merino Soft 607 Braque and Merino Brush 257 Van der Leck (size M). I went for a ¾ sleeves for this one and also added a mosaic detail for the cuffs.

With Merino Soft and Merino Soft Brush yarns by Scheepjes

The pattern will give two options for the front bands: either for a clasp (without button holes) or with buttons. You can choose what you like better.

If you search for color inspiration, have a look at the image below.

Complete yarn amounts:

You will need 500 (550, 600, 620, 680, 740, 790, 840, 890, 940)g of yarn,

or 1 (1, 1, 1(2), 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) Whirl Fine Art cakes

and 6 (7, 8, 8(4), 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) balls of Merino Soft.

*Please, note that yarn amounts are approximate. They were estimated for specific measurements: length of the lower body from underarm approx. 35.5cm/14". If you want to make your jacket longer, you will need more yarn*

Find all yarn in your local Scheepjes shop, or purchase it online via international retailers:

Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (UK, please check shipping guidelines before placing your order, as there might be limitations due to COVID situation)

Caro’s Atelier* (NL)

Taemombo (US and Canada)

What you will learn during MAL:

How to choose correct size for yourself
What short rows mean and how they are done
How to shape yoke with raglan increases
How to adjust yoke/jacket for your own body
How to add (correctly) button and buttonhole bands

Fade to Light Jacket Timeline:

Reveal (this post) – July 17th, 2020

General information and gauge swatch – August 4th, 2020

Part 1: short rows – August 7th, 2020

Part 2: raglan increases – August 14th, 2020

Part 3: sleeves – August 21st, 2020

Part 4: mosaic pattern for lower body – August 28th, 2020

Part 5: button bands and collar – September 2nd, 2020

See you there? :)

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Fade to Light Jacket MAL: Part 3. Sleeves

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INSTRUCTIONS

SLEEVES (both alike)

Option 1 – two Whirls

Option 2 – one Whirl

Fade to Light Jacket MAL: Part 2. Raglan increases

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INSTRUCTIONS

INCREASES for raglan

INC SET 1 – 2 rows

INC SET 2 – 4 rows

INC SET 3 – 2 rows (for M, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X and 5X only!)

SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES

LOWER body

Fade to Light Jacket MAL. Part 1: short rows

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Materials:

Sizes:

Abbreviations (US crochet terms)

Special Stitches

Pattern repeats:

Gauge:

Pattern notes:

Yarn choice

INSTRUCTIONS

YOKE

Set up Row (WS):

SHORT ROWS (shaping back)

Short row 1 (inc for back and sleeves)

Short row 2 (inc for back and front only!)

Short row 3 (inc for body and sleeves)

Fade to Light Jacket MAL: gauge information

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Fade to Light Jacket make-a-long: Reveal

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Sizing

Yarn choice

Complete yarn amounts:

What you will learn during MAL:

Fade to Light Jacket Timeline:

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