In this exercise, we’ll follow a brioche crochet pattern exclusively designed for this workshop. The pattern has been carefully created to help you practice all the essential elements of the brioche crochet technique and to deepen your understanding of its structure and logic.
As you work through each section, you’ll reinforce the skills you’ve learned so far and gain confidence in applying them to more complex brioche projects.
You can either follow the written instructions below, or download the ready-to-print PDF HERE. This pdf-file includes even more step-by-step pictures to help you. And print friendly copy of the pattern is available for download HERE.
And if you’d like a bit of extra support, I’ve also created a video tutorial (watch below) where I share helpful tips on reading written instructions confidently — so you can follow any pattern with ease and independence.
Let's start!
A City Walk book is available for a pre-order in our webshop HERE.
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EMILIA BRIOCHE CROCHET SQUARE
Copyright. An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Taťána Kuprijančik). Copyright 2014-2025. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed, or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Materials
If you are new to Brioche crochet, please, choose thick enough and softer yarn in two contrast colors. Solid colors with high contrast work the best for this technique.
For my samples shown in the video, I used Scheepjes Unity yarn (70% Superwash Merino Wool x 30% Polyamide; 100g/400m).
And for my sample shown in the pictures below, I used Scheepjes Catona yarn (100% mercerised cotton; 50g/125m).
3.5mm crochet hook (a slightly bigger hook is recommended than you would normally use with the chosen yarn)
Gauge: after 8 rounds the square measures approx. 10cm/4in. If you use yarn in different weigh, your gauge and finished measurements will differ.
Measurements: finished square measures approx. 14cm/5½in across, blocked
Abbreviations (US terms)
beg begin(ning)
ch chain stitch
ch-sp(s) chain space(s)
ch2-sp(s) chain 2 space(s)
cont continue
crn(s) corner(s)
lp(s) loop(s)
opp opposite
rep(s) repeat(s)
RS right side
sp(s) space(s)
st(s) stitch(es)
prev previous
yo yarn over the hook
WS wrong side
Stitch guide
dc double crochet: yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] 2 times.
FPdc front post double crochet: yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice.
FPdc2tog front post double crochet 2 together: *yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of next stitch of same color below, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook; rep from * once more, yo, pull through all three lps on hook.
FPtr front post treble crochet: yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] 3 times.
hdc half double crochet: yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 3 lps on hook.
sc single crochet: insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook.
ss slip stitch: insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a lp, pull second lp through first lp on hook.
tr treble crochet: yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st, [yo, pull through 2 lps] 3 times.
Special stitches
brdc brioche double crochet: yo, insert the hook in sp of same color from two rounds below in front of ch-sp of previous round, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through both lps] twice.
fan-st: work 1dc on top of the corn st of same color below, ch2, 1FPtr around same corn st, ch2, 1dc on top of same corn st.
Pattern repeats
[…] repeat instructions inside […] as many times as indicated in the pattern.
*…; rep from * repeat after * as many times as indicated in the pattern.
(…) work several sts in/around the same st
Pattern Notes
- All rounds are worked on RS (unless otherwise instructed).
- One color is used for one round; do not cut yarn at the end of the rounds but carry it up to next rounds on WS.
- Change color in ch1 at the beginning of every round, unless otherwise instructed.
- FPdc/FPdc2tog are always worked around sts of same color from 2 rounds below.
- Ch-sps behind front post stitches will always be skipped.
- You can stop at any round, working your squares in different sizes. The best is to stop after the round made with Yarn B. Replace all ch2 with ch1 on that last round.
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INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright. An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Taťána Kuprijančik). Copyright 2014-2025. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed, or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Round 1: Beg with Yarn A. Make an adjustable ring, ch1 (does not count as a st), 8sc into ring, ss to beg sc – 8 sts.
Round 2: Ch1 while changing to Yarn B (do not cut Yarn A). Ch5 (counts as first dc and ch2-sp), 1dc in same st as join, [ch2, skip next st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next st] 3 times, ch2, ss to beg ch5-sp – 8 dc and ch2-sps.
Round 3: On this round, work all tr and dc in front of ch2-sps. Ch1 changing to back to Yarn A grabbing it up on WS (do not cut Yarn B, make sure the float of yarn on WS does not pull – here and throughout), beg in same sp as join, [1sc in next ch2-sp, 1tr in st of Round 1 below already occupied with 2 dc from prev round placing tr between them, 1sc in same ch2-sp, ch2, skip next st of opp color, 1dc in next skipped st of Round 1 below, ch2] 4 times, ss to beg sc, ss to crn tr – 2 sc, 1 dc and 2 ch2-sps per side, 1tr in each crn.
Round 4: Ch1 changing to Yarn B, beg in same st as join (here and all even rounds), *(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in crn tr, [ch2, skip next st of opp color, 1FPdc around next st of same color below] 2 times, ch2; rep from * 3 more times, ss to beg sc, ss to next ch2-sp – 2 sc, 2 FPdc and 3 ch2-sps per side, 1 ch2-sp in each crn.
Round 5: Ch1 changing to Yarn A, beg in same crn ch2-sp as join (here and all odd rnds), *1sc in crn ch2-sp, 1FPtr around crn tr below, 1sc in same ch2-sp, ch2, skip next st of opp color, 1FPdc around next sc of same color below, ch2, skip next st of opp color, 1FPdc around next dc of same color below, ch2, skip next st of opp color, 1FPdc around next sc of same color, ch2; rep from * 3 more times, ss to beg sc, ss to next FPtr – 2 sc, 3 FPdc and 4 ch2-sps per side, 1 FPtr in each crn.
Round 6: Ch1 changing to Yarn B, *(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in crn FPtr, ch2, skip next st of opp color, 1FPdc around sc of same color, [ch2, skip next st of opp color, 1FPdc around next FPdc of same color] 2 times, ch2, skip next st of opp color, 1FPdc around sc of same color, ch2; rep from * 3 more times, ss to beg sc – 2 sc, 4 FPdc and 5 ch2-sps per side, 1 ch2-sp in each crn.
Note: On all remaining rounds, work front post stitches around sts of same color from 2 rounds below (first and last front post stitch will be worked around sc of same color); sts of opp color and ch2-sps will be skipped.
Round 7 (RS): Cont working on RS. Ch1 changing to Yarn A, *1sc in crn ch2-sp, 1FPtr around crn FPtr below, 1sc in same ch2-sp, ch2, 1FPdc2tog around next sc and FPdc of same color (skipping st of opp color between two “legs” – here and for all FPdc2tog), ch2, fan-st in next st of same color, ch2, 1FPdc2tog around next FPdc and sc of same color, ch2; rep from * 3 more times, ss to beg sc, ss to next FPtr – 2 sc, 2 FPdc2tog, 1 fan st (including 2 ch2-sps) and 4 ch2-sps pre side, 1 FPtr in each crn.
Round 8: Ch1 changing to Yarn B, *(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in crn FPtr, ch2, 1FPdc, ch2, skip FPdc2tog, 1FPdc, [ch2, 1brdc in next V] 2 times working in same ch2-sp, ch2, 1FPdc, ch2, skip FPdc2tog, 1FPdc, ch2; rep from * 3 more times, ss to beg sc, ss to next ch2-sp – 2 sc, 4 FPdc, 2 brdc and 7 ch2-sps per side, 1 ch2-sp in each crn.
Round 9: Ch1 changing to Yarn A, *1sc in crn ch2-sp, 1FPtr around crn FPtr below, 1sc in same ch2-sp, ch2, 1FPdc2tog around next sc and FPdc2tog, ch2, (1FPdc, ch2, 1FPdc) around next st, ch2, 1FPdc, ch2, (1FPdc, ch2, 1FPdc) around next st, ch2, 1FPdc2tog around next FPdc2tog and sc, ch2; rep from * 3 more times, ss to beg sc, ss to next FPtr – 2 sc, 2 FPdc2tog, 5 FPdc and 8 ch2-sps per side, 1FPtr in each crn.
Round 10: Ch1 changing to Yarn B, *(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in crn FPtr, ch2, 1FPdc, ch2, skip FPdc2tog, 1FPdc, ch2, 1brdc in next V, [ch2, 1FPdc] 2 times, ch2, 1brdc in next V, ch2, 1FPdc, ch2, skip FPdc2tog, 1FPdc, ch2; rep from * 3 more times, ss to beg sc, ss to next ch2-sp – 2 sc, 6 FPdc, 2 brdc and 9 ch2-sps per side, 1 ch2-sp in each crn.
Round 11: Ch1 changing to Yarn A, *1sc in crn ch2-sp, 1FPtr around crn FPtr below, 1sc in same ch2-sp, ch2, (1FPdc, ch2, 1FPdc) around next sc, ch2, 1FPdc2tog around next FPdc2tog and FPdc, [ch2, 1FPdc] 3 times, ch2, 1FPdc2tog around next FPdc and FPdc2tog, ch2, (1FPdc, ch2, 1FPdc) around next sc, ch2; rep from * 3 more times, ss to beg sc, ss to next FPtr – 2 sc, 7 FPdc, 2 FPdc2tog and 10 ch2-sps per side, 1 FPtr in each crn.
For Round 12 you can choose either simplified version, or a challenging one (see below).
Round 12 (simplified): Ch1 changing to Yarn B (cut Yarn A leaving long enough tail for safe weaving), Working all sc in sts of opp color and all FPdc around sts of same color below, *(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in crn FPtr, 1sc, 1FPdc, 1sc, 1brdc in next V, [1sc, 1FPdc] rep to next V, 1sc, 1FPdc, 1sc; rep from * 3 more times, ss to beg sc, fasten off – 23 sts per side, 1 ch2-sp in each crn.
Round 12 (challenging): Ch1 changing to Yarn B (cut Yarn A leaving long enough tail for safe weaving), *(1sc, ch2, 1sc) in crn FPtr, 1sc in next st of opp color, 1FPdc around next st of same color, (1dc in sp behind next st, 1brdc in V, 1dc in sp behind next st) working in same ch2-sp, [1FPdc around next st of same color, 1dc in sp behind next st of opp color] 5 times, 1FPdc around next st of same color, (1dc in sp behind next st, 1brdc in V, 1dc in sp behind next st) working in same ch2-sp, 1FPdc around next st of same color, 1sc in next sc of opp color; rep from * 3 more times, ss to beg sc, ss to next ch2-sp – 23 sts per side.
Round 13 (WS): Turn and cont working on WS with Yarn B. Ch2 (does not count as a st), [1hdc in ch2-sp, 1FPdc around each st to crn ch2-sp, 1hdc in ch2-sp, ch2] 4 times, ss to beg sc, fasten off – 25 sts per side, 1 ch2-sp in each crn.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends. Block square to measurements.
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Have a question about the Emilia Square? Comment below — I love hearing from you!
With love,
Tatsiana
P.s. View materials from Lesson 3 HERE. I will explain how to read and follow brioche crochet charts.
Hi Tatiana.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for the lovely tutorial! I really enjoyed crocheting with it.
In round #6 the written instructions say BPdc, but I see in the pictures and video that you actually crochet FPdc.
Could there be a mistake in the written instructions?
Thank you again, Geula.
Yes, that was a typo, already corrected!
DeleteHi Tatsiana, thank you for this workshop - I always look for something new to learn.
ReplyDeleteI think there is an error in Round 6 as the instructions are for BPdc but the picture and the note below shows FPdc.
best, Gila
Hi Gila, thank you! Yes, you are right... I used Row 6 from the Basic Brioche square by mistake. Everything is corrected now :)
DeleteHi Tatsiana, Thank you for this marvelous pattern. I am very happy with the results with only a few little glitches of my own along the way. Again, your work is most appreciated. Tricia
ReplyDeleteHi Tricia, I am happy it worked out well, and hope you are more confident with Brioche Crochet now.
DeleteAt the very end of the lesson two video it ends with you saying “and also…” and then it cuts off.. can you write what your and also should have been followed with? Thank you.
ReplyDeleteLooks like the video was cut due to a technical glitch... In the very end, I am repeating that you can make some stitches longer on the last rounds, to straighten the edge. I will process the entire video once again and will add it again. But only 1.5 minutes are missing, so you did not miss any important information.
DeleteHello Tatiana. Thank you so much for your hard work in compiling this extensive workshop. I love making squares and wondered if you have or considering in doing a tutorial on a continuous join as you go for these squares.
ReplyDeleteThank you! This workshop is primarily about Brioche Crochet. But online, you can find lots of other video tutorials about different ways of joining, including the join-as-you-go.
DeleteHi Tatsiana, thank you for these wonderful lessons! The video helps so much. You mentioned that a whole blanket of Emilia squares would be quite thick - would it work to mix the brioche squares with some non-brioche squares? I'm wondering since they would be different thicknesses. I am not sure what else to do with them!
ReplyDeleteHi Lisa, you can absolutely mix the brioche and non-brioche squares in one blanket. It would add interest and texture to the fabric, and the blanket will not be stiff and heavy.
DeleteThanks, Tatsiana, for these practice squares. Although I have done several mosaic and brioche projects, I have always stumbled with stitch placement in the first two or three rows, for some reason. Your comments about rows of ribs and structure of brioche have been very helpful and the lights have finally come on!
ReplyDeleteThank you! I am glad the workshop was helpful.
DeleteThanks a lot for all the explaining and the video. I had to do every round at least twice because I noticed in de next round that I had made a mistake. Si I had double fun!
ReplyDeleteGreat! Thank you!
DeleteI plan to catch up with the lessons this weekend but I just wanted to say-- thank you! This looks very thorough but easy to follow and I am genuinely excited to learn something new and create something beautiful in the process!
ReplyDeleteThank you for your kind words!
DeleteHi Tatsiana: Thank you for these tutorials. I'm being following you and your designs for a while now and Brioche technique seems so complicated until now. You said in the video tutorial that it is recommended to use a market in the repeats...what do you mean? would you show it in a video please. Thank you for sharing your craft and artistry.
ReplyDeleteHello Gloria, you can use markers in your brioche projects to mark the last (or first) stitch in every pattern repeat. Then it should be easier to see the stitch placement and compare every pattern repeat with the previous or the next one. And it should also be easier to see possible mistakes.
DeleteThanks for Brioche exercises, so helpful for working into proper stitches and learning new practices. May I make one more suggestion for clarity? In Row 13 (WS) where it says "1FPdc around each st crn ch2-sp, '' could it instead say "1FPdc around each st TO crn ch2-sp, " ... just a small typo, but it would help pattern readers like me. I'm thinking the chart lessons will make it clear as well.
ReplyDeleteThank you! I will do that :)
DeleteI have been really inspired by these tutorials to once again pursue some brioche crochet projects. It's really fun to try different color combinations to see which ones work best to show the motifs. You really outdid yourself! Thank you so much!
ReplyDelete