Whirl Mandala Cardigan - FREE crochet pattern



Crochet round vests (or circle jackets) can be very different. Whirl Mandala Cardigan is my own version of this beloved garment shape. Plain circle instead of lace mandala in the center gives it a classical look, and soft gradient color changes of Whirl yarn by Scheepjes make this garment unique. With just one skein you will create a fresh accessory for yourself or a gift for your relatives or friends. This free crochet pattern is aimed to beginners! Enjoy! (You can see more pictures of Whirl mandala cardigan HERE).

Whirl Mandala Cardigan - FREE crochet pattern by Lilla Bjorn - www.lillabjorncrochet.com


Les explications sont aussi disponibles en français ICI
Het patroon in het Nederlands - Cirkelvest
Návod v češtině najdete ZDE
A magyar nyelvű fordítás ITT található. Fordította M Kovács Ágnes
Μετάφραση στα Ελληνικά από την Κατερίνα Πουτιού HERE.

What you’ll need


  • Yarn in one color. I used cotton blend yarn “Whirl" by Scheepjes (reviewed HERE)  in shade Liquorice Yumyum (751). One skein for entire cardigan. Please note that depending on your gauge you might need more yarn.
          Whirl yarn is available at Wool Warehouse* (HERE), Taemombo (US and Canada) or in your local Scheepjes shops.
  • Clover Amour crochet hook 3.25 mm (D)* or size needed to get an acceptable gauge.
  • Stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle to weave in yarn tails.


Level

Beginner

Gauge


Gauge is only critical for this pattern if you are using Whirl yarn and want to stay within one skein. After Round 5 the piece measures approx. 10cm/4in across.

Finished size


One size (S to L). Cardigan measures approx. 40cm (15 ½ in) between arm holes (the shoulders). And approx. 82cm (32in) long measured on the back from neck to the bottom.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide (US terms)


US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.

st(s) stitch(es)
beg beginning
ch chain
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc (half double crochet) - yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 3 lps.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
[…] [crochet following directions] as many times as indicated


Pattern notes


  • Whirl Mandala Cardigan is crocheted in round on right side, each round is joined with ss.
  • Ch2 in the beginning of each round doesn’t count as dc. So 1st dc is made in the same st as join.
  • Ch5 in the beginning of the round counts as 1dc and ch2.
Whirl Mandala Cardigan - FREE crochet pattern by Lilla Bjorn - www.lillabjorncrochet.com

INSTRUCTIONS

Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue

Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2017. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.

 

Central mandala


Round 1: Working with yarn tail from the center of the skein. Make magic ring, ch2 (doesn’t count as dc here and throughout) and 12dc into ring. Tighten the ring and finish with ss top of 1st dc after ch2. (12 dc)

Round 2: ch2, 2dc in each st around (1st dc increase is made in the same st as join), finish with ss top of 1st dc. (24 dc)

Round 3: Note: first dc is made in same st as join (here and throughout)
ch2, *1dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (36 dc)

Round 4: ch2, *1dc, 2dc in next st, 1dc* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (48 dc)
Round 5: ch2, *3dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (60 dc)
Round 6: ch2, *2dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (72 dc)
Round 7: ch2, *5dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (84 dc)
Round 8: ch2, *3dc, 2dc in next st, 3dc* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (96 dc)
Round 9: ch2, *7dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (108 dc)

Lace part


Round 10: ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), skip same st as join and next st, *1dc, ch2, skip 1 st* repeat around, finish with ss in 3rd ch in the beg of the round. (54 dc and 54 ch2-sps)
Whirl Mandala Cardigan - FREE crochet pattern by Lilla Bjorn - www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Round 11. !!!Important Note:!!! on this and ALL NEXT ODD rounds every ch2-sp counts as st. So each dc and increase is either made in dc or ch2-sp. 1st dc is made in same st as join.

ch2, *3dc, 2dc in next st, 4dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (132 dc)
Whirl Mandala Cardigan - FREE crochet pattern by Lilla Bjorn - www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Round 12: As Round 10 (66 dc and 66 ch2-sps)
Round 13: ch2, *4dc, 2dc in next st, 5dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (156 dc)
Round 14: As Round 10 (78 dc and 78 ch2-sps)
Round 15: ch2, *5dc, 2dc in next st, 6dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (180 dc)
Round 16: As Round 10 (90 dc and 90 ch2-sps)
Round 17: ch2, *6dc, 2dc in next st, 7dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (204 dc)
Round 18: As Round 10 (102 dc and 102 ch2-sps)
Round 19: ch2, *7dc, 2dc in next st, 8dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (228 dc)
Round 20: As Round 10 (114 dc and 114 ch2-sps)
Round 21: ch2, *8dc, 2dc in next st, 9dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (252 dc)
Round 22: As Round 10 (126 dc and 126 ch2-sps)
Round 23: ch2, *9dc, 2dc in next st, 10dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (276 dc)
Round 24: As Round 10 (138 dc and 138 ch2-sps)
Round 25: ch2, *10dc, 2dc in next st, 11dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (300 dc)
Round 26: As Round 10 (150 dc and 150 ch2-sps)
Round 27: ch2, *11dc, 2dc in next st, 12dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (324 dc)
Round 28: As Round 10 (162 dc and 162 ch2-sps)
Round 29: ch2, *12dc, 2dc in next st, 13dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (348 dc)

Shaping arm holes


At this point your mandala should measure approx. 57cm/22 ½ in across (when stretched).

Round 30: ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), skip same st as join and next st, *1dc, ch2, skip 1 st* 46 times, 1dc in next st, 46ch loosely, skip 43 sts, *1dc in next st, ch2, skip 1 st* 36 times, 1dc in next st, 46ch loosely, skip 43 sts, *1dc in next st, ch2, skip 1 st* to the end (47 times), finish with ss in 3rd ch in the beg of the round. (132dc, 2 46ch-sps, 130 ch2-sps)
Whirl Mandala Cardigan - FREE crochet pattern by Lilla Bjorn - www.lillabjorncrochet.com

Round 31: ch2, *13dc, 2dc in next st, 14dc, 2dc in next st* 3 times, 8dc till next ch46-sp, 1dc in each of next 46ch, 73dc till next 46ch-sp, 1dc in each of next 46ch, 6dc, 2dc in next st, [13dc, 2dc in next st, 14dc, 2dc in next st] 3 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (367 dc)
Whirl Mandala Cardigan - FREE crochet pattern by Lilla Bjorn - www.lillabjorncrochet.com

If you are working with Whirl yarn, the color will continue to change. I recommend to break yarn now and crochet around each of two armholes with 2 rounds of sc (make 46 sc on each “front” and “back” and 2sc in each of 2 ch2-sps – 94 sc in total). Then join yarn with ss in the same st as join of Round 31.

Shaping neck


Round 32: ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), skip same st as join and next st, *1dc, ch2, skip 1 st* 73 times, 72sc, ch2, skip next st, [1dc, ch2, skip 1 st] 73 times, finish with ss in 3rd ch in the beg of the round. (147dc, 72sc, 148 ch2-sps)

Round 33: ch2, *14dc, 2dc in next st, 15dc, 2dc in next st* 4 times, 14dc, 2dc in next st, 6dc, 2hdc, 1sc in next sp, 72sc, 1sc in next sp, 2hdc, 6dc, 2dc in next st, [14dc, 2dc in next st, 15dc, 2dc in next st] 4 times, 13dc, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (307dc, 74sc, 4hdc)

Round 34: ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), skip same st as join and next st, *1dc, ch2, skip 1 st* 78 times, 70sc, ch2, skip next st, *1dc, ch2, skip 1 st* 78 times, finish with ss in 3rd ch in the beg of the round. (157dc, 70sc, 158 ch2-sps)

Round 35: ch2, *15dc, 2dc in next st* 10 times, 2hdc, 17sc, 2sc in next st, 24sc, 2sc in next st, 17sc, 2hdc, 2dc in next st, [15dc, 2dc in next st] 10 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (342 dc, 4hdc, 62sc)

Lace Edge


Round 36: As Round 10. (204 dc and 204 ch2-sps)
Round 37: ch2, *16dc, 2dc in next st* till end, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (432 dc)
Round 38: As Round 10. (216 dc and 216 ch2-sps)
Round 39: ch2, *17dc, 2dc in next st* till end, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (456 dc)
Round 40: As Round 10. (228 dc and 228 ch2-sps)
Round 41: ch2, *18dc, 2dc in next st* till end, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (480 dc)
Round 42: As Round 10. (240 dc and 240 ch2-sps)
Round 43: ch2, *19dc, 2dc in next st* till end, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (504 dc)
Round 44: As Round 10. (252 dc and 252 ch2-sps)
Round 45: ch2, *20dc, 2dc in next st* till end, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (528 dc)
Round 46: As Round 10. (264 dc and 264 ch2-sps)
Round 47: ch2, *21dc, 2dc in next st* till end, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (552 dc)
Round 48: As Round 10. (276 dc and 276 ch2-sps)
Round 49: ch2, *22dc, 2dc in next st* till end, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (576 dc)
Round 50: As Round 10. (288 dc and 288 ch2-sps)
Round 51: 2sc in next sp, ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), [1dc in next sp, ch2] 10 times, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next sp, ch2, *[1dc in next sp, ch2] 11 times, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next sp, ch2* repeat till end (23 times), finish with ss in 3rd ch in the beg of the round. (312dc and 312 ch2-sps)

Note: depending on how much yarn is left you can leave out Rounds 52 and 53.

Rounds 52-53: 2sc in next st, ch5, [1dc in next sp, ch2] repeat till end, finish with ss in 3rd ch in the beg of the round. (312dc and 312 ch2-sps)
Round 54: *ch3, ss in next dc* to the end, fasten off, weave ends. Block to measurements.


Congratulations!!! Your Whirl Mandala Cardigan is now finished!

Whirl Mandala Cardigan - FREE crochet pattern by Lilla Bjorn - www.lillabjorncrochet.com

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71 comments

  1. Thank you for sharing this beautiful pattern - have to buy Whirl and start as soon as possible :-)

    ReplyDelete
  2. Oh my gosh, that Whirl yarn is exactly what I've been looking for!! Probably a good thing it's out of stock, heh, I'd likely have spent more money than is good for me on it. :) Thank you so much for this pattern, I plan to make one up for myself!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Thank you so much Tatsiana - I love it - just waiting for my Whirl yarn - I may end up making another 2 of these if my daughters like mine :)

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  4. This is a lovely pattern. I recently came into possession of some of my great grandmother's crochet, mostly doilies, and I have been considering making a circle shawl like this with one of the doilies at the centre for my grandmother (whose mother created the doilies). The doily I have in mind is 8 inches across - where would you advise that I begin the pattern if I want to start by crocheting around it?

    I'd really appreciate your advice as I have not attempted something like this before.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Lucy! You mean where to begin to combine my mandala pattern with your doily? My pattern can only work for your doily if fingering yarn is used, and 3.25mm hook. In other words you can only use my pattern in case your gauge is same as mine. If you think it can work, you can crochet around doily (make one round) and see what is the stitch count (how many stitches you get). And then you can find a round with closiest stitch count in my pattern. Maybe you will need to adjust the number of your stitches (make some increases). And when you finally have the same stitch count as on one of the rounds of my Cardigan - you can continue with my pattern. But again - the gauge should be the same! Hope that helps.

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  5. Can you suggest another yarn brand that would work up close to the whirl yarn? Lovely pattern!!!!!!!!!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Honestly I am not a yarn guru, and I don't know about other cakes with the same effect. As I simply haven't tried any. But to make this Cardigan you can use Fingering yarn and 3.25mm hook. Please, first make a gauge swatch to be sure your gauge is the same as mine. Then your yarn will work for this pattern just fine.

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  6. Is there a video tutorial of this? Thank you

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. no, there is no video... I believe the pattern is pretty easy to follow :)

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  7. This is EXACTLY what I've been looking for for ages! Thank you!

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  8. If I used a larger hook, do you think I could get an XL instead of the one size fits all? I am trying to figure out if a larger hook would do it, or if it would be necessary to alter the pattern near the arms?

    Thank you!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It depends... Of course with larger hook you will get a bigger mandala, but it also means the entire cardigan will be longer. If you are tall - then this can work just fine. Otherwise you will need to adjust the pattern for armholes.

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  9. This is a lovely pattern. Is the yarn you used fingering weight? I am having a hard time figuring out how much yarn makes up the skein you used. Can you help me with that? I would love to try this pattern, but I don't think I have access to the yarn you chose. Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Alice, yes, Whirl is fingering yarn and one cake is approx. 1000m. I used entire cake for my cardigan - with hook 3.25mm. Whirl yarn is very soft, so if you choose a bit stiffer yarn in same weight, you might need more yarn for your cardigan. Hope this helps.

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  10. unless my counting is off, there is an error in round 32. The first ch5, then 72dc, then the last 73dc add up to 146 instead the called for 147dc. I do think the 147 is correct. I think it should be ch5, then 73dc. Correct me if I'm wrong.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, you are right. First repeting section should be repeated 73 times (not 72). I've corrected this in the pattern. Thank you!

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    2. So glad to find this out! I thought I was going mad as I have worked/ ripped out and re-worked this section ALL DAY!!!!!Thank goodness for that,I can do it properly now, but may be not today!Apart from this little problem I'm enjoying the project. Many thanks!

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  11. Just thought I'd pass this on.

    I'm using Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable for this. With a 4.5mm hook, it has worked up at about 61cm before I start the armholes.

    I figure, it's such an easy pattern I'll just make another one if it turns out too big.

    Something I thought I would mention, though I don't if it's just my device. I lost Rnd 9 under the footer when I saved the pattern in Acrobat Reader.

    Anyway, thank you so much for all the effort you have put into this lovely design. I gave myself an inkling of that effort, trying to work out if I could start the armholes a couple of rnds early. I'll leave the designing to you professionals 😉

    Susan

    ReplyDelete
  12. Hi this is a great pattern!!!
    I'm using another yarn than whirl and i'd like to ask if i should skip the note between round 31 and 32. Is the purpose of this note for better looking?

    Marianna

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If you don't use yarn with long color change, then of course you can skip this note. you can crochet around armholes later, when entire mandala is finished.

      Delete
  13. Thank You for this pattern. Im using diffrent yarn - Himalaya Everyday Bebe Rengarenk(70211), so mine is bigger mandala :)

    ReplyDelete
  14. I'm a little confused about the 2sc in next stitch at the beginning of rd 51. Is this correct?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, that's correct. But probably it's better to say "2sc in next sp". I updated the pattern. Thank you.

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    2. This comment has been removed by the author.

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    3. I too am confused...why are we adding 2sc crochet at the beginning of rds 51-53? If we are to join the end of the rnd with a ss in the chain 5, we are skipping over the 2sc! Additionally, they are not added in total stitch count given at the end of the rounds. Am I missing something? Thank you!

      Delete
  15. Many, Many thanks to you Tatsiana! I have been looking for a circular vest without all the lacy details. This one is so stylist and beautiful. I will definitely be making this one. You creativity is greatly appreciated

    ReplyDelete
  16. hello Tatsiana,
    I'm using Scheepjes Whirl but I don't have enough yarn to finish round 51. Is it OK to stop after round 50? or what should I best do? Thank you for your advise. Petra

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Petra, if the size is ok for you - of course you can stop after round 50.

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  17. Do you think I could use Mandala yarn?? It's rated as a 3 in weight!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I don't think Madnala yarn will work for this cardigan, as it's DK and I used fingering. Hook 5mm is recommended for Mandala yarn and I used 3.25mm. It's a very big difference... If you use Mandala yarn, your cardigan will turn out very big, and long...

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  18. Hi i am making this with wolltraum gradient yarn and I'm stuck on round 10 or 11... Maybe im not reading it right but any help would be appreciated! I dont understand exactly where the stitches should go and the increases.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello: It’s June 30/18 so I’m not sure this will reach you but I’ll try. I’m just trying out this pattern for the first time. I am stuck at row 11 as well and cannot figure out what to do, I’ve ripped it out 3 times. Did you ever figure it out? Thanks

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    2. Which exactly problem do you have? Please, email me progress picture.

      Delete
  19. Hi am using mandala yarn and size 6 hook. But is not flat what am doing wrong.
    Biveca

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If it's not flat from the beginning (with flat circle), then try to switch to a small hook or adjust the gauge. If it's on lace part - feel free to replace ch2 with ch1.

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  20. Hey! I love this!! I started working on this with Mandela Yarn. But now I am so confused!! On Round 4 should have 48dc (I have 54dc) on Round 5 should have 60dc (i have 67dc). I took it out and re-use it. Same thing! How am I coming up with different amounts? Thank you in advance!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! It's difficult to say... You probably make wrong number of increases. You should make 12 increases per round.

      Delete
    2. I did the same. I reread the pattern. Round 4. 1 dc in stitch then 2 dc in next stitch then 1 dc in next stitch. This completes one of the 12. The next stitch you start again 1 dc next stitch 2 dc then 1 dc. You will have to single dc next to each other. You will now have 48.

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    3. I did the same and reread the instructions. 1 dc next to chain then 2 dc in next then 1 dc in next. This counts of one of the 12 you will complete. Next stitch 1 dc then 2 in next then 1 dc in next stitch. On the round you will have two single dc next to each other.

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    4. I am stuck at round 5. As I read the pattern, I’m putting 3 dc in the first stitch ( which is where the 2sc are) followed by 3dc in stitch 2. Doing that 12times will only use 24 of the 48 stitches from round 4. What am I not understanding from the instructions? Please help! I love the pattern and I’m using Whirl Popin Candy-something bright for a long awaited spring.

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    5. right row 5 is wrong. 3 doubles next to 2 doubles is an increase by 3.

      Delete
  21. Hello from USA! I made this pattern with 9 balls of Knit Picks Lindy Chain linen/cotton fingering yarn and it looks great! I used an F hook to get an XL size, did not need to adjust the arm holes.

    I'm making another wrap with Red Heart Unforgettable roving and a J hook. Lots of pattern adjustments needed, but it's looking good! Using stitch markers to mark approximate locations of increases...hate to count, haha.

    ReplyDelete
  22. So I'm currently doing this pattern with Sirdar Hayfield's Bonus Super Chunky in black on a 12mm hook, and at row 5 I'm already at 12 inches in diameter!!

    On another note, for some reason I got really stuck on row 5 for ages and frogged it at least 5 times. I couldn't figure out why the circle was rippling and I had a count of 80 and 10 stitches to finish the circle. Then I figured out I was reading the pattern wrong and doing the 3dc in the same stitch and not a run of 3 individual dc!! My fault for not reading the pattern though.

    I'm planning on putting some sleeves this and turning it into a cardigan, since I want a round hem cardigan and I can't figure out how to do cocoon cardigans properly, lol!

    ReplyDelete
  23. Many thanks for the pattern.
    I've crocheted this vest for my grandma.
    I had to do some changes because she is really tiny lady.
    If you are interested, you can see the result here
    https://flic.kr/p/212LyEA

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! thank you for sharing your picture. I think your cardigan is wonderful :)

      Delete
  24. Dank je wel voor het mooie patroon , ik ben nog maar een paar maanden aan het haken en het is verslavend deze hobby , deze zou graag voor volgende maand op mijn to do list zetten.
    Dank je wel voor een patroon die zowel ervaren of beginnede haakster te maken is .💞💞💞💞💞💞

    ReplyDelete
  25. hola estoy empezando a tejer este hermoso patron y veo que la vuelta 11 no me cuadran los puntos... si las dos cadenetas no cuentan como punto y el primer punto se hace en la union ,el sigiente en las dos cadenetas y el siguiente en el punto( porque son tres puntos altos en total),despues el aumento , cuatro puntos altos ,aumento,tres puntos altos ,aumento....al final el ultimo hueco de dos cadenetas me lo tengo que saltar

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I am sorry, I don't understand what you mean. Can you please e-mail me a progress picture? this cardigan was finished by many poeple already. So I suppose there no errors in the pattern...

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    2. sorry... perdon,no hagas caso de mi comentario anterior!!! acabo de ver MI ERROR!!!!... he tejido dos puntos en un mismo espacio y claro ,ya no me cuadraba el resto..siento no haberlo visto antes!!!!...ya he seguido tejiendo y esta todo correcto... gracias por todo.

      Delete
  26. Hi

    Firstly thank you for sharing the pattern. I have some questions about this -

    If you are working with Whirl yarn, the color will continue to change. I recommend to break yarn now and crochet around each of two armholes with 2 rounds of sc (make 46 sc on each “front” and “back” and 2sc in each of 2 ch2-sps – 94 sc in total). Then join yarn with ss in the same st as join of Round 31.

    I don’t quite understand what is sps stands for
    And the single crochet on the arm hole? Can’t visualize on this part
    And lastly, I am a lefty. Does it make any different how I crochet it?

    Thank you very much. Looking forward for your reply

    Amy

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Amy, after rnd 31 you will have two armholes. to make them look neat I suggest that you crochet around each armhole with two rounds of sc. To do so you should break the yarn after Rnd 31, join it with slip stitch in any stitch of armhole and make two rounds of sc around armhole. then break yarn and repeat the same around another armhole. then break yarn again :) And join back in same st of join of rnd 31 (and continue to crochet around big circle as if you didn't break yarn at all). does it make sense?

      Delete
    2. I got confused on this step too. Is it possible to add a picture for this step?
      It will help a lot!!!!
      Thanks

      Delete
    3. I'm stuck here, too. I don't understand what you mean by crocheting around the armholes. Do you mean on the inside of the sleeve opening? I'm using a single color yarn, so I don't need to worry about the color change. Is it okay to just continue the pattern, skipping this step, or will that mess it up?

      Delete
  27. When you block, do you have to block after every wash?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. IT's recommended to dry flat hand made projects after every wash. So basically it is blocking :)

      Delete
  28. Thank you! Sorry. Took me quite awhile and yes, thank you for the patience and explanation. I’ve manage to complete it! :) and I love it very much!

    ReplyDelete
  29. I am just reading through this pattern, which I would love to make for at least one of my daughters. But I'm also a bit confused about stitch placement. e.g. Round 11 reads: ch2, *3dc, 2dc in next st, 4dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times, finish with ss top of 1st dc. (132 dc). So where are the stitches made? if I do 3dc, 2 dc in next st, then 4dc, 2dc in next stitch??- why not just stated 5 dc in next st. then 6 dc in next st? Where do the 3dc go if the 2dc go in next st? I've done some fairly complex patterns, but I'm not sure here where to place these stitches? Can you, Tatsiana, help? or someone else? or a more close-up photo of the stitch placement?
    Is it me? I'm feeling kind of stupid asking this, but don't want to waste that Whirl yarn once I start.
    I have the yarn and ready to go - but am afraid to start until I have some way of knowing WHERE stitches are placed?
    HELP PLEASE!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello, on rnd 11 the pattern says (in other words): "1dc in each of next 3 sts, 2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 4 sts, 2dc in next st". Please, remember that every dc and every space on rnd 10 count as st. So you will make dc of Rnd 11 either in spaces of rnd 10, or in dc of rnd 10. Hope that helps!

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    2. Thank you so much. I was confused with this round as well. I was reading 3dc in one stitch not 1dc in the next 3.

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  30. I really love this pattern. And it was an oppotunity to fresh up my english. I had no problems with the description. I had just to find the correct translation for the stitches in german. I reached now round 51 and wait for my whirlette to complete.
    Thank you ♡♡♡

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! I am so glad you like the pattern :)

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  31. I used a different yarn and my row count is less for measurement at arm holes. How do i determine countfor placement? Thank you

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  32. Round 33. I've done the 6 dc, 2 hdc, and 1 sc but it's not ending where the right spot. After I do the 72 sc, there are 2 extra stitches before the next space. I've recounted my stitches many times and cannot find my error. Could I just put in 8 dc on each side instead of 6?

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    Replies
    1. Yes, of course! Exact counts are not critical for this pattern.

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    2. Thank you! I'll give that a try.

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  33. Hello, love this pattern so far ! Quick question about rnd 31.(13 dc, 2dc in next st) Are we working in the chain 2 space, or in the stitch directly?

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    Replies
    1. Hope you figured it out by now! It's just like all the previous odd-numbered rows, until you get to the ch-46 space. There, you should work into each chain stitch, not around the chain. Otherwise, it will slide around too much.

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  34. Hello! I need a little help. Im crocheting this pattern but im stuck at round 4. the pattern says 1dc, 2dc, 1dc x12 to get 48 dc, i count 34dc by that counting? Where do i do wrong?

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  35. Many thanks Tatsiana! I have been looking for a circular vest without all the lacy details and this one fresh and modern! I have used WoolWhirl and it is beautifully soft and elegant however I have a lot of cotton summer yarn that I would like to use being inspired by your design. (Drops Paris).
    Do you increase in every round (of course according to the number of the round) or do you have leave some rounds without increase? You creativity is greatly appreciated.

    Thank you
    Sasha

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  36. Love this pattern and excited to make it! Is the finished cardigan a generous size? I was just wondering, as it is one size up to a large. Thank you!

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  37. I really want to make this pattern however I am a bit of a bigger girl and was wondering what I would have to adapt it to my size

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