If you prefer to have complete written instructions together with
charts, pattern notes and photo-tutorial, then you can purchase a
ready-to-print pdf file for a small fee on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE.
Second Mosaic Border
Each of four Stripes is worked with new color for A and B (see colour key).
Stripe 5
Row 1 – WS: With WS facing (previously completed stripe is on the left side for righties (right side for lefties), attach Yarn A with ss in the corner of Stripe 2, ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc in same st as join, 12sc evenly along the short edge of Stripe 2, 59sc along the long edge of Stripe 1 in FL, ch11, ch1 changing to Yarn B, turn – 72 sc and 12 ch
Row 2 – RS: With Yarn B, ch1, treating every ch as a st, 1sc in second ch from hook, 1sc in next st, [ch3, sk 3 sts, 1sc] to last st, 1sc to end, turn 
Row 3 – WS: Ch1, 2sc, [ch3, sk sp, 1sc] to last st, 1sc to end changing to Yarn A, turn
Row 4: With Yarn A, ch1, 1sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 3mdc] to last 2 sts, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc to end, turn
Row 5: Ch1, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc] to last sp and sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc to end changing to Yarn B, turn
Row 6: With Yarn B, ch1, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc] to end, turn
Row 7: Ch1, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc] to end changing to Yarn A in last st, turn
Row 8: With Yarn A, ch1, 1sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc] to last 2 sts, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc to end, turn
Row 9: Ch1, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc] to last sp and sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc to end changing to Yarn B, turn
Row 10: With Yarn B, ch1, 1sc, 1mdc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc] to last st, 1sc to end, turn
Row 11: Ch1, 2sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to last st, 1sc to end changing to Yarn A, turn
Row 12: With Yarn A, ch1, 2sc, 1mdc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc] to end working 1sc instead of last mdc, turn
Row 13: Ch1, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc] to end changing to Yarn B in last st, turn (cut A)
Row 14: With Yarn B, ch1, 3sc, [1mdc, 3sc] to end. Fasten off.
Stripe 6
Row 1 – WS: With WS facing (previously completed stripe is on the left side for righties (right side for lefties), attach Yarn A with ss in the corner, ch1, 1sc in same st as join, 12sc evenly along the short edge of Stripe from first border, 59sc along the long edge of next Stripe in FL, 11sc along the short edge of previously made Stripe changing to Yarn B in last st – 83 sc
Rep Rows 2-14 from Stripe 5
Stripe 7: Rep instructions for Stripe 6
Stripe 8: Rep instructions for Stripe 6 joining it with the “hanging” edge of Stripe 5 as-you-go in the same way as for Stripe 4 as foll:
After Row 2 skip 1 ch on edge and work 1ss in each of next 2 ch; then work 2ss after row 4, 1ss after Row 6, 2ss after Row 8, 1ss after Row 10, 2ss after Row 12 and join Row 14 with ss in last ch.
CHART
FINISHING
Border
Check color key for each round.
With RS facing, attach yarn for Round 1 with ss in first st of any stripe. Change to a smaller hook or work tighter.
Round 1 – RS: Ch1 (does not count as a st), *ch2, 1sc in same corner st, 83sc (BL) along the side of the stripe, 11sc evenly along short side of the next stripe working last sc in the corner; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp – 95 sc per side
Round 2: Ch1 changing yarn, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 1sc (BL) in each st to next corner, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp (cut yarn) – 97 sts per side
Round 3: Ch1 changing yarn, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, [1sc (BL), 1dc (FL) in st of same color below next st of round 2, skip 1 st behind dc] to one st left before next corner, 1sc (BL), 1sc in corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp (cut yarn) – 99 sts per side (48 dc and 51 sc)
Round 4: Ch1 changing yarn, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, [3sc (BL), 1SPsc] to 3 sts left before next corner, 3sc (BL), 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp. Fasten off – 101 sts per side
Surface slip stitches
Work surface slip stitches along all seams as shown in the picture (be careful not to pull fabric). If surface crochet with slip stitching is new to you, please check THIS tutorial.
Weave in all tails. Block square to measurements. Sew it by hand onto fabric pillowcase (HERE is video tutorial).
Purchase a ready-to-print copy of the pattern with ALL parts on Ravelry and Etsy.
Welcome to the PART 2 of the small Like a Kelim pillow make-a-long. Today we will be adding the first mosaic border around the central square which was completed last week. The border consists of the four stripes, each with the same stitch pattern but different colors. For exact placement of the colors, please check the color key. It was published last week together with the first part of the pattern.
If you prefer to have complete written instructions together with charts, pattern notes and photo-tutorial, then you can purchase a ready-to-print pdf file for a small fee on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE.
First Mosaic Border
Each of four Stripes is worked with new color for A and B (see color key).
Stripe 1
Row 1 – WS: With WS facing, attach Yarn A with ss in the corner sp of the central square, ch1 (does not count as a st – here and throughout), 1sc in same sp, 43sc along the side in FL, 1sc in next corner sp, ch14, ch1 changing to Yarn B, turn – 45 sc and 15 ch
Row 2 – RS: With Yarn B, treating every ch as a st, 1sc in second ch from hook, ch2, sk 2 ch, 1sc, [ch3, sk 3 sts (treating very ch as a st), 1sc] to 3 last sts, ch2, sk 2 sts, 1sc to end, turn
Row 3 – WS: Ch1, 1sc, ch2, sk sp, 1sc, [ch3, sk sp, 1sc] to last sp and sc, ch2, sk sp, 1sc to end changing back to Yarn A (make sure float does not pull along the edge), turn
Row 4 – RS: With Yarn A, 1sc, 1mdc in each of 2 skipped ch below, [ch1, sk 1 st, 3mdc] x13, ch1, sk 1 st, 2mdc, 1sc to end, turn
Row 5: Ch1, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc] to end changing to Yarn B in last st, turn
Row 6: With Yarn B, ch1, 1sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc] to last 2 sts, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc to end, turn
Row 7: Ch1, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc] to last sp and sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc to end changing to Yarn A, turn
Row 8: With Yarn A, ch1, 1sc, 1mdc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc] to last st, 1sc to end, turn
Row 9: Ch1, 2sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc] to last st, 1sc to end changing to Yarn B, turn
Row 10: With Yarn B, ch1, 2sc, 1mdc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc] to end working 1sc instead of last mdc, turn
Row 11: Ch1, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc] to end changing to Yarn A in last st, turn
Row 12: With Yarn A. Rep Row 6
Row 13: Rep Row 7 changing to Yarn B in last st
Row 14: With Yarn B, ch1, 1sc, 1mdc, [ch3, sk 3 sts, 1mdc] to last st, 1sc to end, turn
Row 15: Ch1, 2sc, [ch3, sk sp, 1sc] to last st, 1sc to end changing to Yarn A (cut Yarn B), turn
Row 16: With Yarn A, ch1, 2sc, [3mdc, 1sc] to last st, 1sc to end. Fasten off.
Stripe 2
Row 1 – WS: With WS facing (previously completed stripe is on the left side for righties (right side for lefties), attach Yarn A with ss in the corner sp of the central square, ch1 (does not count as a st – here and throughout), 1sc in same sp, 43sc along the square’s side in FL, 1sc in next corner sp, 14 sc evenly along the short edge of Stripe 1 changing to Yarn B in last st, turn – 59 sc
Rep Rows 2-16 from Stripe 1
Stripe 3: Rep instructions for Stripe 2
Stripe 4: Rep instructions for Stripe 2 joining it with the “hanging” edge of Stripe 1 as-you-go as foll:
After completing Row 2, work ss in first ch on the hanging edge, turn and continue with Row 3 on WS. After rows 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14, ss in next two ch on the hanging edge, turn and continue with next row on WS. Join Row 16 with ss in last ch on the hanging edge.
And here is the chart for you to follow if you prefer it better than written instructions.
Purchase a ready-to-print copy of the pattern with ALL parts on Ravelry and Etsy.
See you next week!
The pattern instructions are long, and I decided to publish them in parts on my blog. But you prefer to have a ready-to-print copy of the pattern, it is available for purchase for a small fee on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. The pdf file includes everything you need: pattern notes, stitch guide, charts, color keys, round-by-round written directions, and complete photo-tutorial.
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| Colorways Rich and Cloud |
Materials: Scheepjes Softfun minis colour pack (60% Cotton, 40% Acrylic), 12 x 20g/56m balls
3mm hook, tapestry needle
You can find Softfun mini packs in your local Scheepjes shop, or you can order yarn online via online retailers:
Woolwarehouse* (UK, international shipping)
Caro's Atelier* (NL, Europe)
Taemombo (Canada and US)
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| Colorway Rainbow (two versions). Photo credit: taemombo |
Gauge: after 11 rounds central square measures approx. 10 cm/4” across Size Finished square measures approx. 50cm/20”, blocked
Abbreviations (US terms)
BL back loop
ch chain stitch
FL front loop
rep repeat
sc single crochet
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
prev previous
yo yarn over the hook
Pattern Repeats
[…] [rep instructions as many times as indicated]
*…; rep instruction after * as many times as indicated in the pattern.
Special stitches
mdc mosaic double crochet: regular dc worked into skipped/unworked st from 3 rows below in front of chains; chains will stay behind mdc and will be skipped.
SPsc spike single crochet: the spike stitch is almost the same as a single crochet but placed one round below the working round and drawn up to the height of a working round. Insert a hook in indicated st, draw up a loop to the height of the stitches at a working rnd, yo, pull through both lps on hook. Skip the sc of current rnd which is located behind a SPsc just made. Pattern Notes You can either follow only written instructions, or together with the chart. Use one color for 2 rows unless otherwise instructed. The color is changed in the corner of the central square in the first ss, or at the end of rows of Mosaic Stripes in the last yo of the last st. Do not cut the yarn, carry it up to next row. You will have floats of yarn on WS. Make sure they do not pull or are too loose.
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| Colorway Jewel. Photo credit: Esther Schippers |
How to Read the Chart
Chart is read from bottom to top. Each rnd/row in chart represents two rnds/rows of same color (except of first row of squares for both mosaic border which indicates Row 1). Even rnds/rows are worked on the RS (2, 4, 6, etc) and are read from right to left. Odd rnds/rows on WS (3, 5, 7, etc) are read back across from left to right.
The first square of each rnd/row shows which color is used for 2 rnds/rows (2-3, 4-5, etc) Each square of the chart shows 1 stitch or 1 missed stitch. When squares of different colors appear in the rnd/row, they should be missed. So instead of working them, make the same number of chs as the number of missed sts. So, for 1 missed st you will have ch1; for 2 missed sts, ch2, etc.
On RS rnds/rows, when you crochet with a different color, you will make mdc in these missed sts from three rnds below. Mdc are only worked on RS rnds/rows and are always made in front of chains of previous rnds/rows, so the ch-sps are always missed behind them. On WS (odd numbered rnds/rows) you will only make sc and chs.
Please note that sc are made in sts of the previous rnd/row, and chs are made over chs.
Important! In the chart for Central Square, first and last squares indicate sc worked in corner ch-sps. Squares marked with a dot are only worked on the WS.
For color key for Rich, Cloud, Jewel, Pastel and two Rainbow options, please download THIS file.
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INSTRUCTIONS
Please, note that colors in the photo-tutorial are random and don't correspond with colors in the Scheepjes mini packs.
Purchase a ready-to-print copy of the pattern with ALL parts on Ravelry and Etsy.
Central Square
Round 1 – RS: Begin with Yarn A. Make magic ring, ch1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), [ch2, 1sc into ring] x4, ss to beg sp – 1 sc per side
Round 2 – RS: Continue with Yarn A. Ch1, [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp – 3 sc per side
Round 3 – RS: Ch1, [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp – 5 sc per side
Round 4 – RS: Ch1 changing to Yarn B, [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, ch1, sk 1 st, 3sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp, turn – 5 sc and 2 ch1-sps per side
Round 5 – WS: Ch1, [1sc in same corner sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2] x4, ss to beg sc inserting hook from back to front (here and for all WS rounds), turn – 7 sc and 2 ch1-sps per side
Continue working in rounds alternating RS and WS and changing yarn after every two rounds.
Round 6 – RS: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing back to Yarn A (grabbing it up on WS – here and throughout; make sure the float does not pull), [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, 1mdc in skipped st from 3 rounds below in front of work (here and throughout), ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 2sc, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp, turn – 7 sc, 2 mdc and 2 ch1-sps per side
Round 7 – WS: Ch1, [1sc in same corner sp, 4sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 4sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2] x4, ss to beg sc, turn – 11 sc and 2 ch1-sps per side
Round 8: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn B, [ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc in next corner sp] x4, ss to beg sp, turn – 8 sc, 2 mdc and 5 ch1-sps per side
Round 9: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 2sc] x4, ch1, sk sp, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 12 sc and 5 ch1-sps per side
Round 10: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn A, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc] x2, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 8 sc, 5 mdc and 6 ch1-sps per side
Round 11: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 1sc, [ch1, sk sp, 3sc, ch1, sk sp, 1sc] x3, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 15 sc and 6 ch1-sps per side
Round 12: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn B, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, [1mdc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc] x3, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 11 sc, 6 mdc and 6 ch1-sps per side
Round 13: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 4sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc] x3, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 19 sc and 6 ch1-sps per side
Round 14: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn A, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc] x3, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 13 sc, 6 mdc and 8 ch1-sps per side
Round 15: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc] x4, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 21 sc and 8 ch1-sps per side
Round 16: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn B, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc] x4, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 14 sc, 8 mdc and 9 ch1-sps per side
Round 17: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 2sc] x9, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 24 sc and 9 ch1-sps per side
Round 18: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn A, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, 1mdc, 1sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc] x4, ch1, sk 1 st, 3sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 16 sc, 9 mdc and 10 ch1-sps per side
Round 19: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 4sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc] x5, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 27 sc and 10 ch1-sps per side
Round 20: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn B, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 2sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc, [ch1, sk 1 st, 1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc, ch1, sk 1 st, 1sc] x5, ch1, sk 1 st, 2sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 17 sc, 10 mdc and 12 ch1-sps per side
Round 21: Ch1, *1sc in same corner sp, 3sc, [ch1, sk sp, 1sc, ch1, sk sp, 3sc] x6, 1sc in next corner sp, ch2; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sc, turn – 29 sc and 12 ch1-sps per side
Round 22: Ss in corner sp, ch1 changing to Yarn A, *ch2, 1sc in same corner sp, 4sc, [1mdc, 1sc, 1mdc, 3sc] x6, 1sc, 1sc in next corner sp; rep from * three more times, ss to beg sp, turn – 43 sc per side. Fasten off both yarns.
Purchase a ready-to-print copy of the pattern with ALL parts on Ravelry and Etsy.
That's all for today! See you next Friday when we will add the first mosaic border.
P.s. PART 2 is available HERE.
