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Part 4 can be found HERE.
I’ve just come home from Greece where I spent the whole week with my family with lots of sea bath and sunshine. I am dying to share lots of pictures with you. But I also understand it’s probably not the right moment as you probably would like to get crocheting at once. But anyway I would love to send you a bit of Greek warmness with this “postcard”.
1. Last week some of you had problems with figuring correct stitch count. I agree that instructions in the beginning of each row might be a bit confusing and I am sorry for that. But please keep in mind that directions in the very beginning always give an idea where the very first stitch is placed. They are ONLY for placement!! And Instructions (even though they contain the word “next”) already contain the 1st stitch. So when in the beginning you read: hdc in next 5 sts, it means you should make 5 sts in total in the beginning (and not just 1st stitch, and then 5 next). Hope that helps!!
2. Each row of this part begins with standing hdc, as in previous part. And all tr4togs are “modified”. If you missed this information on previous part – please check tutorials HERE (standing hdc) and HERE (modified tr4tog).
3. Some of you were concerned about the symmetry of “wings” on the front and back parts. It’s true they are not totally symmetrical (I did my best to adjust them), but this should work itself out after the band is added.
4. Please, don’t worry if the colors for front and back (and also for Deep and Pastel versions) don’t correspond. That’s ok! They should not necessarily be the same.
5. And last but VERY important note about the colors. As you know the gauge is very important in this project, especially if you are using the kit. I know that some of you were not able to obtain correct gauge and your bag is becoming larger. There is a danger you will run out of particular shades in the end. But you can handle it by changing colorway on the back, as it is not important at all.
I decided to give you the colorway for the rest of the pattern (after Part 3) so that you can see how many rows are made with each shade. And so that you can predict if you run out of yarn or not, and “play” with colorway for back.
Here is an example of what you can do: As you can see, in Deep version C5 is only used for 2(!!) rows on the front, and never on the back. So if your bag is obviously bigger, please, feel free to use C5 on some rows of the back instead of C1, C2 or C3.
It's a bit more complicated with Pastel version.. If you are not sure about the yardages, please complete the front first (all 5 parts) and then finish the back with yarn left :)
Colour way (shades for back are in brackets):Deep Pastel
Row 20 – C2 (C1), C7 (C9)
Row 21 – C4 (C4), C6 (C10)
Row 22 – C5 (C3), C9 (C8)
Row 23 – C2 (C2), C7 (C7)
Row 24 – C4 (C4), C6 (C10)
Row 25 – C1 (C2), C10 (C7)
Row 26 – C4 (C1), C6 (C9)
Row 27 – C5 (C3), C9 (C8)
Row 28 – C3 (C4), C8 (C9)
Row 29 – C2 (C2), C7 (C7)
Row 30 – C3 (C1), C8 (C9)
Row 31 – C1 (C3), C6 (C8)
Row 32 – C3 (C2), C8 (C9)
And maybe another postcard for you not to be bored with too much text? :)
If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
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INSTRUCTIONS: PART 3
English - US terms
English - UK terms
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
sl st slip stitch
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
FPtr2tog front post treble 2 together
FPtr3tog front post treble 3 together
yo yarn over
NJ needle join
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
After this part your piece (both front and back) should measure 25cm (10”) in widest place.
Row 14. Note: as on previous rows, make “modified” tr4tog’s in this part.
For a neater result, you can also make groups of 3 FPtr in a modified way: 1st FPtr is made in a usual way around the post of the indicated stitch, and next 2 tr’s are made in a space at the bottom of this FPtr. But these modifications are not really necessary!
Change to yarn C3 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in FPtr of row 12 below, sk no sts, hdc in next 2 sts, FPtr around same st of row 11 where 1st FPsc was made, 3Fptr around next st of row 11, FPtr around next st of row 11, sk ch4-sp* 8 times, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in FPtr of row 12 below, sk no sts, hdc in 5 next sts; fasten off. (99)
Row 15. Change to yarn C1 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 7 sts, *FPtr around ch4-sp below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts, FPtr around ch4-sp below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st; fasten off. (99)
Row 16. Change to yarn C3 (C10). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around each of 5 FPtr below, sk 5 sts* 8 times, hdc in 3 next sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in 5 next sts. (108)
Row 17. Change to yarn C4 (C9). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in next 9 sts, *FPtr around FPtr of row 15 below, sk 1 st, hdc in 3 next sts, FPtr around FPtr of row 15 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 7 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 3 sts; fasten off. (108)
Row 18. Change to yarn C3 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 11 sts, *FPtr3tog (around 2nd, 3rd and 4th FPtr of row 16 below), sk no sts, hdc in next 12 sts* 8 times; fasten off. (115)
Row 19. Change to yarn C1 (C8). Start in 1st hdc.
Note: when making FPtr2tog - work every leg around each of two FPtr of row 17 lying to the right and to the left from FPtr3tog of previous row. Feel free to replace FPtr2tog with FPdtr2tog if it’s too tight.
Hdc in next 11 sts, *FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 12 sts* 8 times, fasten off. (115)
Please, try to keep the same gauge as for front. Check measurements after row 19.
Row 14. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 5 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, fasten off. (99)
Row 15. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 97 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (99)
Row 16. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
2hdc in 2nd st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, *hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, fasten off. (108)
Row 17. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 106 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (108)
Row 18. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 10 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 11 sts*, 8 times, hdc in last st, fasten off. (115)
Row 19. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 113 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (115)
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.
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