Showing posts with label Peacock Tail Bag CAL. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peacock Tail Bag CAL. Show all posts
Peacock Tail Mandala pattern is an adaptation of Peacock Tail Bag into full circle. You can use this mandala as wall hanging, pillow (shown in the pattern), table decoration and even area rug (if made with worsted/bulky yarn and larger hook).
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*Purchase an ad-free and ready-to-print PDF of this pattern in ENGLISH (including all Important Notes, material list, stitch guide, complete instructions and photo tutorials) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
You will need:
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
~ Amour Clover crochet hook 4.5mm* or the size which will give you correct gauge
~ Tapestry needle to weave in yarn tails
~ Aran yarn in five colors. I used Cahlista yarn by Scheepjes in the following shades (amounts are given for entire pillow): 401 (3 skeins), 395 (3 skeins), 282 (3 skeins), 527 (3 skeins), 249 (1 skein)
Cahlista yarn is available in Scheepjes local stores as well as at Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK with international shipping), Caro’s Atelier* (NL) and Knotty House* (Canada).
Measurements: The size of the finished mandala depends on the yarn and hook you use. My pillow is approx. 62cm (24 ½”) large across.
Gauge: after 4 rounds circle with dc measures 10cm (4”) across.
Check Important Notes for this pattern HERE.
Abbreviations (US terms)
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull second lp through the first lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc (half double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 3 lps.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, yo, *pull through 2 lps* twice.
FPtr (front post treble) – yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* three times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble 2 together) - *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
FPtr5tog (front posttreble 5 together) - *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice*5 times, yo, pull through all 6 lps on hook.
FPdtr2tog (front post double treble 2 together) - *yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] 3 times* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
FPdtr (front post double treble)– yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.
“modified” tr4tog - yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice, *yo twice, insert the hook to the hole at the bottom of stitch just made, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice*3 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook. Check tutorial HERE.
INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
Color Key: C1 – emerald (401), C2 – green (395), C3 – purple (282), C4 – dark blue (527), C5 – yellow (249)
Important!! If you are familiar with overlay crochet, you may probably know that stitches of the background are usually made in back loops only. But for this pattern please work all rounds and rows on back AND front – through both loops!!!
Rnd 1. Start with yarn C1. Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as first dc) and 11dc in magic ring; NJ in first dc of the rnd after ch2. (12)
Rnd 2. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in any st of rnd 1. First dc increase will be ch2+dc in same st where yarn was attached.
*2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the first dc of the rnd after ch2. (24)
Rnd 3. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in first st of any dc increase of rnd 2.
*dc in next (first dc of the rnd will be ch2 – here and throughout), 2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the first dc of the rnd after ch2. (36)
Rnd 4. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in first dc of any dc increase of rnd 3.
*2dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the first dc of the rnd after ch2. (48)
Rnd 5. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in second dc after any dc increase of rnd 4.
*3dc, 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the first dc of the rnd after ch2. (60)
Rnd 6. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in second dc of any dc increase of rnd 5.
Note: please, feel free to replace FPtr’s with FPdtr’s if they pull too much.
*hdc in next 5 sts (first hdc will be ch2 – here and throughout), FPtr around second dc of inc of rnd 4 below, skip no sts on rnd 5* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (72)
Rnd 7. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in second hdc before any FPtr of rnd 6.
*5hdc, 2hdc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the first hdc of the rnd after ch2. (84)
Row 8. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in first st after any increase of Rnd 7.
On this and all next rounds tr4tog's are made in a "modified" way (See Abbreviations and Stitch Guide).
*3hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st, 3hdc, 1FPtr around central st of Rnd 6 between two FPtr below, skip no sts* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (96)
Rnd 9. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in any FPtr. Don’t work tight.
96hdc, NJ in first hdc after ch2, mark the loop of NJ. (96 sts)
Rnd 10. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in second st after marked st.
*3hdc, 2hdc in next st, 3hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (108)
Rnd 11. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in any tr4tog. Don’t work tight.
108 hdc, NJ in first hdc after ch2, mark the loop of NJ. (108)
Rnd 12. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in first st after marked one.
Note: all increases are made directly above tr4tog’s of row 10. First increase will be ch2+dc in same st where yarn was attached.
*2hdc in next st, 4hdc, 1FPtr around second hdc of increase below, skip 1 st, 3hdc* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (120 sts)
Rnd 13. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in second st of Rnd 12 before any FPtr.
Note: you will get 12 “U” on this row.
*5hdc, ch4, FPsc around 3 sts on row 11 (find tr4tog on row 10 below. Make FPsc into the st of row 11 that goes into this tr4tog, then make 1FPsc around each of next 2 next sts of rnd 11), ch4, skip 5 sts on Rnd 12* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2.
Rnd 14. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in first hdc of any group of 5hdc of Rnd 13.
*3hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr of Rnd 12 below, skip no sts, 2hdc, 1FPtr around same st of Rnd 11 where first FPsc was made, 3FPtr around next st of Rnd 11, 1FPtr around next st of Rnd 11, skip ch4-sp* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (132)
Rnd 15. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in first st of Rnd 14 before any tr4tog.
*5hdc, 1FPtr around ch4-sp below, skip no sts, 5hdc, 1FPtr around ch4-sp below, skip 1 st,* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (144 sts)
Rnd 16. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in FPtr of Rnd 15 before any tr4tog of same color below.
*3hdc, 2hdc in next st, 3hdc, 1FPtr around each of 5 FPtr below, skip 5 sts* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (156)
Rnd 17. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in first st after any group of 5 FPtr of Rnd 16.
*8hdc, 1FPtr around FPtr of row 15 below, skip 1 st, 4hdc, 1FPtr around next FPtr of Rnd 15 below, skip no sts* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (168)
Row 18. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in third hdc of Rnd 17 of any group of 4 hdc.
*14hdc, FPtr5tog (make each leg around each of 5 FPtr of same color below), skip no sts* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (180)
Rnd 19. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in second st after any FPtr5tog of Rnd 18.
Note: when making FPtr2tog - work every leg around each of two FPtr of Rnd 17 lying to the right and to the left from FPtr5tog of previous rnd. Feel free to replace FPtr2tog with FPdtr2tog if it’s too tight.
*15hdc, 1FPtr2tog, skip no sts* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (192)
Rnd 20. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in first st of Rnd 19 before any FPtr2tog.
*5hdc, 1FPtr around st of Rnd 18 which was made after FPtr of row 17 below, skip no sts, 10hdc, 1FPtr (as previous), sk 1 sts* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (204)
Rnd 21. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in fourth hdc of Rnd 20 of any group of 5 hdc.
*16hdc, 2hdc in next st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (216)
Rnd 22. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in first hdc of Rnd 21 before any increase.
*6hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st, 5hdc, 2hdc in next st, 4hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (228)
Rnd 23. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in second hdc of any increase of Rnd 22.
*9hdc, 1FPtr around second hdc of increase of Rnd 21 below, skip 1 st, 9hdc* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (228)
Rnd 24. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in first st of Rnd 23 before any FPtr.
*4hdc, FPtr around tr4tog below, skip 1 st, 6hdc, 2hdc in next st, 6hdc, 1FPtr around tr4tog below, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (240)
Rnd 25. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in fourth hdc of Rnd 24 of any group of 4 hdc.
Note: Feel free to replace FPtr’s with FPdtr’s if needed.
*10hdc, 1FPtr around st of Rnd 23 made in first st of increase of Rnd 22, skip no sts, 9hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st* 12 times; NJ in first hdc after ch2. (252)
Rnd 26. Change to yarn C4. Attach yarn in second st of rnd 25 after any tr4tog. Make legs of FPtr2tog around FPtr of same color below lying to the right and to the left of current stitch.
*20hdc, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (252)
Rnd 27. Change to yarn C5. Attach yarn in fifth st of Rnd 26 before any FPtr2tog.
*5hdc, 2hdc in next FPtr2tog, 6hdc, 1tr4tog in fourth hdc of row 25 before next FPtr, skip 1 st, 3hdc, 1tr4tog in FPtr below, skip 1 st, 3hdc, 1tr4tog in fourth hdc of row 25 after FPtr, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (264)
Rnd 28. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in fourth st of Rnd 27 before any increase.
Note: legs of FPtr2togs are made around hdc of row 26 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 27 below.
*13sc (first sc will be ch1 – here and to the end), [1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st, 3sc] twice, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first sc after ch1. (264)
Rnd 29. Change to yarn C2. Attach yarn in first sc of Rnd 28 after first FPtr2tog of any group of 3 FPtr2tog’s.
Ch2 (doesn’t count as hdc), *1tr4tog in hdc of row 27 visible at the bottom of “V”, skip 1 st, 2hdc, 1tr4tog (as previous), skip 1 st, 11hdc, 2hdc in next st, 6hdc* 12 times – make last hdc in same st where yarn was attached; NJ in first tr4tog. (276)
Rnd 30. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in second hdc of Rnd 29 of any group of 19 hdc.
Note: legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around FPtr2tog’s of Rnd 28 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 29 below.
*18sc, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st, 3sc, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first sc after ch1. (276)
Rnd 31. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in FPtr2tog of Rnd 30 after any group of 3 sc.
*9hdc, 2hdc in next st, 12hdc, 1tr4tog in st of Rnd 29 at the bottom of “V” below, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first hdc after ch2. (288)
Row 32. Change to yarn C3. Attach yarn in second hdc of Rnd 31 after any tr4tog.
Note: legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around FPtr2tog’s of Rnd 30 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 31 below.
*23sc, 1FPtr2tog, skip 1 st* 12 times, NJ in first sc after ch1. (288 sts)
Row 33. Change to yarn C1. Attach yarn in any st of Rnd 32.
Dc in every st around, NJ in first dc after ch2.
Back part
- Back part of Peacock pillow is worked in rounds on RS through both loops.
- Change colors on every round as per pattern (or in whatever order). Attach yarn in any sts between increases of previous round (or two round below if previous round doesn’t contain increases).
- First hdc/dc of each rnd will be ch2.
- Finish rounds with Needle Join (same as for front mandala)
Rnds 1-5. As for front mandala.
Rnd 6. With C3. *4hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (72)
Rnd 7. With C1. *5hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (84)
Rnd 8. With C2. *6hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (96)
Rnd 9. With C3. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (96)
Rnd 10. With C1. *7hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (108)
Rnd 11. With C2. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (108)
Rnd 12. With C4. *8hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (120)
Rnd 13.With C1. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (120)
Rnd 14. With C3. *9hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (132)
Rnd 15. With C2. *10hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (144)
Rnd 16. With C4. *11hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (156)
Rnd 17. With C1. *12hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (168)
Rnd 18. With C3. *13hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (180)
Rnd 19. With C2. *14hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (192)
Rnd 20. With C4. *15hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (204)
Rnd 21. With C1. *16hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (216)
Rnd 22. With C3. *17hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (228)
Rnd 23. With C2. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (228)
Rnd 24. With C4. *18hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (240)
Rnd 25. With C1. *19hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first hdc. (252)
Rnd 26. With C3. Hdc in each st around, NJ in first hdc. (252)
Rnd 27. With C2. *20dc, 2dc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first dc. (264)
Rnd 28. With C4. *21dc, 2dc in next st* repeat around, NJ in first dc. (276)
Rnd 29. With C1. *22hdc, 2hdc in next st* repeat around, join with ss in first hdc, don’t fasten off. (288)
Finishing
Place front and back parts with WS facing each other. Sc around inserting the hook through both layers. Stuff the pillow (insert pillow foam) before you finish joining. Then continue sc till beginning of the rnd, join with ss in first sc, fasten off. Weave in tail.You can also insert zip into the seam if you wish. Hilde Tindlund of RoadRash did it for her pillowcase. Hilde helped me testing the pattern. She chose pastel colors which remind her of sunny summer days at sea with her family :)
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| Photo credit: Hilde Tindlund of RoadRash |
Congratulations!! Your Peacock Tail Mandala pillow is now finished!
*You can purchase an ad-free and ready-to-print PDF of this pattern in ENGLISH (including all Important Notes, material list, stitch guide, complete instructions and photo tutorials) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
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Two weeks ago I showed you the colors of Cahlista yarn* I chose for a new project. It took more time than I expected, but I have been playing with peacock shades almost every (night) day, and new pattern is almost here. Basically it’s not a brand new pattern but a shape transformation of Peacock Tail bag. If you joined me for the CAL back in 2016 you might have recognized at once the pattern and the colors, too. And if you didn’t make the bag, then you might like the mandala shape.
I naively believed it would be very easy to adapt the pattern to the full circle. But I was wrong. I told several times already that Peacock Tail Bag pattern is one of the most advanced I have ever designed. Not because it’s tricky to follow, but because it was not so straightforward for designing. The stitches of a background didn’t want to cooperate and tended to tilt all the time. And instead of a small adaptation I needed to rewrite the pattern from a scratch. And to change placement of most of the stitches.
My mandala turned to be quite big. It’s approx. 62cm/24.5” across and I think it will make a wonderful floor pillow. I still need to crochet the back and write down the instructions, but front mandala pattern is already in test with wonderful Hilde of Road Rash, my angel who is always ready to help. She has chosen some fresh and spring-ish colors, and I can’t wait to see how her finished mandala will look (no doubt it will be very neat and gorgeous).
I am not sure I can find a ready pillow foam in the same matching size, so I will probably have to sew one myself. Luckily I have almost half a kilo of stuffing… Maybe not enough to make the pillow firm, but still enough to show you the finished pillow next week.
I should also give you a small update on Cahlista yarn. I wrote a short review about it HERE. The yarn seemed quite stiff in skeins, but because it has almost no twist, the finished fabric turned out very soft and draping. And I am sure it will become even softer after the wash. So I should reconsider my skeptical idea about using Cahlista for garments. It will probably work well for a sturdy and heavy coat, or jacket.
Cahlista yarn is available in Scheepjes local stores as well as at Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK with international shipping), Caro’s Atelier* (NL) and Knotty House* (Canada).
I am back to swatching and pattern writing. And hope to bring you Peacock Tail Mandala pattern next week.
UPDATE: free pattern is available HERE.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
I naively believed it would be very easy to adapt the pattern to the full circle. But I was wrong. I told several times already that Peacock Tail Bag pattern is one of the most advanced I have ever designed. Not because it’s tricky to follow, but because it was not so straightforward for designing. The stitches of a background didn’t want to cooperate and tended to tilt all the time. And instead of a small adaptation I needed to rewrite the pattern from a scratch. And to change placement of most of the stitches.
My mandala turned to be quite big. It’s approx. 62cm/24.5” across and I think it will make a wonderful floor pillow. I still need to crochet the back and write down the instructions, but front mandala pattern is already in test with wonderful Hilde of Road Rash, my angel who is always ready to help. She has chosen some fresh and spring-ish colors, and I can’t wait to see how her finished mandala will look (no doubt it will be very neat and gorgeous).
I am not sure I can find a ready pillow foam in the same matching size, so I will probably have to sew one myself. Luckily I have almost half a kilo of stuffing… Maybe not enough to make the pillow firm, but still enough to show you the finished pillow next week.
I should also give you a small update on Cahlista yarn. I wrote a short review about it HERE. The yarn seemed quite stiff in skeins, but because it has almost no twist, the finished fabric turned out very soft and draping. And I am sure it will become even softer after the wash. So I should reconsider my skeptical idea about using Cahlista for garments. It will probably work well for a sturdy and heavy coat, or jacket.
Cahlista yarn is available in Scheepjes local stores as well as at Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK with international shipping), Caro’s Atelier* (NL) and Knotty House* (Canada).
I am back to swatching and pattern writing. And hope to bring you Peacock Tail Mandala pattern next week.
UPDATE: free pattern is available HERE.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
Peacock Tail Bag CAL is finished. Last week final part 6 was released and you joined your bag together and added the band and D-rings. You can start using your bag right away or you can line it up with fabric.
If you missed some or all the parts of this CAL, please check page with General Information HERE, and also Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5 and Part 6.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
I used Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes and 2.75mm (С) Clover Soft Touch hook*. Linen Soft is available for purchase via Wool Warehouse HERE* (international shipping), Paradise Fibers (US) HERE* or in your local Scheepjes shop. Separate bag handles, magnetic clasps and D-rings are available via Wool Warehouse HERE*.
If you bought the kit, you should have all materials for the lining included: a piece of fabric, white interfacing and magnetic clasp.
You will also need a ruler, sewing chalk (or just a pencil), scissors, sewing pins (or normal pins if you don’t have sewing), sewing thread in matching color for crocheted band of your bag.
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
Note: Unfortunately there will be no video available for this part. But I am happy to announce translations will be added soon. But if you would like to translate it into your own language right away - please use "Translate" button in the right side on my blog.
There are different types of fabric included in Deep and Pastel kits. Deep version has a 100% polyester fabric, and pastel is rayon. If you have fabric made of natural fibre, you may want to wash it first and then iron. Please, be careful with ironing fabric from Deep kit!! It may leave paint on your ironing board! So better use a piece of other fabric underneath.
If you haven’t blocked your bag – now it’s the last chance to do it.
Picture 1: After your fabric is prepared, fold it inside out so that it’s enough for your bag. Put bag onto fabric.
Picture 2: Draw a line with chalk around the bag.
Picture 3: Remove the bag.
Picture 4: Pin 2 layers of fabric together with sewing pins.
Picture 5: Cut the detail leaving 1cm (1/2 inch) space from line.
Picture 6: Two main details are ready.
Picture 1: Measure depth of the band.
Picture 2: Fold fabric inside out and put main detail above. Draw a line along bag’s opening and two sides. Remove the bag.
Picture 3: Measure the depth of the band from the top of the opening + 1cm (1/2 inch). In my case the band is 5cm deep. So I measured 6cm depth for the band details.
Picture 4: Pin 2 layers of fabric together with sewing pins. Cut band details out.
Important!! I strongly recommend to try ironing with a small piece of fabric and interfacing to make sure you understand how everything works!!
Picture 1: Cut 2 band details from interfacing (fold interfacing, pin fabric band detail above and cut around).
Picture 2: Now you will iron interfacing band details onto the wrong side of main details. Place a piece of white fabric onto ironing board, one main detail (facing the board with right side) and interfacing band above.
Picture 3: Place damp white fabric onto interfacing and press firmly with your hand. Then iron for 12 seconds. When you remove the fabric your main detail and interfacing should be glued to each other.
Picture 4: Place fabric band onto top of main detail (covering interfacing) and pin all 3 details with sewing pins.
Repeat step 4 for second main detail.
You can make a pocket for your bag if you wish. Cut a rectangle of needed shape. Fold upper edge twice and sew a line (with sewing machine of by hand) along it.
Then fold all three remaining edges and sew the pocket along three sides to one of the main details (on the right side).
This step is probably the most tricky. I have never inserted magnetic clasps before. And I was trying to find a solution how to add an extra thickness to fabric in a place where the clasp is attached. And I decided to add two small crocheted circles.
I made them with the same yarn as for the bag’s band.
Rnd 1. Make magic ring, ch1, 6sc into a ring.
Rnd 2. Skip ch1, make 2sc in each stitch. Finish with slip stitch into next stitch. Cut yarn, fasten off, weave yarn tails in.
It’s very important to exactly define the place where the clasp will be attached. Find a center of the band and mark the spot where you want the clasp to be. Please, remember that we left 1cm (1/2 inch) along the bag’s opening. So when deciding about the clasp position, don’t count this 1cm. to make it easier – place the clasp a little bit lower and closer to the bottom of the band rather than to the top. In the picture below you can see how I made it. But I would place the clasp even lower.
Picture 1: Make two tiny holes with scissors on the right side in a place marked for the clasp (through all three layers).
Picture 2: Insert the clasp through the holes.
Picture 3: Wear crocheted circle onto "legs" of clasp.
Picture 4: Place securing ring on the clasp and bend the clasp’s “legs” to the sides.
Insert second part of the clasp to another detail. Make sure that the position of both parts of a clasp is central and the height matches perfectly!!
Option: you can also insert a zipper into the opening of your bag. Like Esther’s mother did for her. Isn’t it just a perfect solution? Check more pictures HERE.
Place 2 main details onto each other with right sides facing, center them and sew along the sides and bottom of the bag (1cm (1/2 inch) from edge) leaving the bag’s opening unworked.
Picture 1: Turn lining inside out. Turn bag inside out. Wear lining onto the bag. (Wrong sides of bag and lining are facing each other), match seams on sides.
Picture 2: Fold upper edge of the lining inside for 1cm (1/2 inch) and pin it to the upper edge of the crocheted band. Sew lining to the crocheted band either with sewing machine or by hand.
Turn the whole bag inside out. Ta-dah!!!!! Your lining is finished!!
I really hope this tutorial is clear and easy to follow. I tried to describe each step in the most easiest way and I hope you could handle it!
Don’t forget to show our bags off on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Ravelry. Please always use hashtag #PeacockTailBagCAL so that I could find them and admire!
Thank you so much for following this CAL. For me it was much of fun. I hope for you, too!
In the end I would like to mention people without whom this CAL would not be possible.
Esther from It’s All In a Nutshell. Thank you so much for you fantastic video’s!
My just the best testers! Cindy, Margo, Raquel, Dominique, Christine, Lori thank you very much for spending your precious time and helping me to test this project. I know it was not the easiest test and many corrections and adjustments were made. Without you this CAL would never go live!
Massiel Lago and fantastic team of translators. Thank you very much for translating my CAL into so many languages.
Susan Cutler Cutrer thank you so much for taking care of the CAL in Official CCC Social Group on Facebook. I know you had to get up early every Wednesday to post on time.
Donna Wilson thank you very much for taking care of our Ravelry group.
Scheepjes and Wool Warehouse*! Thank you very much for sponsoring this CAL and making kits available for purchase.
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Lining is always a better solution for handmade bags, as it gives the bag a better hang and helps to keep its shape. Even if you are not a good sewer, and even if you don’t have a sewing machine – don’t worry. I am not good at sewing at all. I asked my friend Kate Tikota (a designer behind Tikota Unique) to help me with this tutorial. And we tried to make it as simple as possible. And you can sew the lining by hand!
If you missed some or all the parts of this CAL, please check page with General Information HERE, and also Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5 and Part 6.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
I used Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes and 2.75mm (С) Clover Soft Touch hook*. Linen Soft is available for purchase via Wool Warehouse HERE* (international shipping), Paradise Fibers (US) HERE* or in your local Scheepjes shop. Separate bag handles, magnetic clasps and D-rings are available via Wool Warehouse HERE*.
What you will need:
If you bought the kit, you should have all materials for the lining included: a piece of fabric, white interfacing and magnetic clasp.
You will also need a ruler, sewing chalk (or just a pencil), scissors, sewing pins (or normal pins if you don’t have sewing), sewing thread in matching color for crocheted band of your bag.
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
Tutorial: Lining
Note: Unfortunately there will be no video available for this part. But I am happy to announce translations will be added soon. But if you would like to translate it into your own language right away - please use "Translate" button in the right side on my blog.
Step 1. Wash and Iron Fabric
There are different types of fabric included in Deep and Pastel kits. Deep version has a 100% polyester fabric, and pastel is rayon. If you have fabric made of natural fibre, you may want to wash it first and then iron. Please, be careful with ironing fabric from Deep kit!! It may leave paint on your ironing board! So better use a piece of other fabric underneath.
If you haven’t blocked your bag – now it’s the last chance to do it.
Step 2. Cut Main Detail (two)
Picture 1: After your fabric is prepared, fold it inside out so that it’s enough for your bag. Put bag onto fabric.
Picture 2: Draw a line with chalk around the bag.
Picture 3: Remove the bag.
Picture 4: Pin 2 layers of fabric together with sewing pins.
Picture 5: Cut the detail leaving 1cm (1/2 inch) space from line.
Picture 6: Two main details are ready.
Step 3. Cut Band Detail (two)
Picture 1: Measure depth of the band.
Picture 2: Fold fabric inside out and put main detail above. Draw a line along bag’s opening and two sides. Remove the bag.
Picture 3: Measure the depth of the band from the top of the opening + 1cm (1/2 inch). In my case the band is 5cm deep. So I measured 6cm depth for the band details.
Picture 4: Pin 2 layers of fabric together with sewing pins. Cut band details out.
Step 4. Interfacing
Interfacing is a special kind of material which is ironed onto fabric to give it extra thickness and sturdiness. We will use interfacing to strengthen the bag’s band. Interfacing has two side: one is with gloss – and this is the one where glue is. To stick fabric and interfacing together, you should place interfacing with glue onto fabric.
Important!! I strongly recommend to try ironing with a small piece of fabric and interfacing to make sure you understand how everything works!!
Picture 1: Cut 2 band details from interfacing (fold interfacing, pin fabric band detail above and cut around).
Picture 2: Now you will iron interfacing band details onto the wrong side of main details. Place a piece of white fabric onto ironing board, one main detail (facing the board with right side) and interfacing band above.
Picture 3: Place damp white fabric onto interfacing and press firmly with your hand. Then iron for 12 seconds. When you remove the fabric your main detail and interfacing should be glued to each other.
Picture 4: Place fabric band onto top of main detail (covering interfacing) and pin all 3 details with sewing pins.
Repeat step 4 for second main detail.
Step 5 (optional). Pocket
You can make a pocket for your bag if you wish. Cut a rectangle of needed shape. Fold upper edge twice and sew a line (with sewing machine of by hand) along it.
Then fold all three remaining edges and sew the pocket along three sides to one of the main details (on the right side).
Step 6. Magnetic Clasp
This step is probably the most tricky. I have never inserted magnetic clasps before. And I was trying to find a solution how to add an extra thickness to fabric in a place where the clasp is attached. And I decided to add two small crocheted circles.
I made them with the same yarn as for the bag’s band.
Rnd 1. Make magic ring, ch1, 6sc into a ring.
Rnd 2. Skip ch1, make 2sc in each stitch. Finish with slip stitch into next stitch. Cut yarn, fasten off, weave yarn tails in.
It’s very important to exactly define the place where the clasp will be attached. Find a center of the band and mark the spot where you want the clasp to be. Please, remember that we left 1cm (1/2 inch) along the bag’s opening. So when deciding about the clasp position, don’t count this 1cm. to make it easier – place the clasp a little bit lower and closer to the bottom of the band rather than to the top. In the picture below you can see how I made it. But I would place the clasp even lower.
Picture 1: Make two tiny holes with scissors on the right side in a place marked for the clasp (through all three layers).
Picture 2: Insert the clasp through the holes.
Picture 3: Wear crocheted circle onto "legs" of clasp.
Picture 4: Place securing ring on the clasp and bend the clasp’s “legs” to the sides.
Insert second part of the clasp to another detail. Make sure that the position of both parts of a clasp is central and the height matches perfectly!!
Option: you can also insert a zipper into the opening of your bag. Like Esther’s mother did for her. Isn’t it just a perfect solution? Check more pictures HERE.
Step 7. Finishing
Place 2 main details onto each other with right sides facing, center them and sew along the sides and bottom of the bag (1cm (1/2 inch) from edge) leaving the bag’s opening unworked.
Picture 1: Turn lining inside out. Turn bag inside out. Wear lining onto the bag. (Wrong sides of bag and lining are facing each other), match seams on sides.
Picture 2: Fold upper edge of the lining inside for 1cm (1/2 inch) and pin it to the upper edge of the crocheted band. Sew lining to the crocheted band either with sewing machine or by hand.
Turn the whole bag inside out. Ta-dah!!!!! Your lining is finished!!
I really hope this tutorial is clear and easy to follow. I tried to describe each step in the most easiest way and I hope you could handle it!
Don’t forget to show our bags off on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Ravelry. Please always use hashtag #PeacockTailBagCAL so that I could find them and admire!
Thank you so much for following this CAL. For me it was much of fun. I hope for you, too!
Many thanks!
In the end I would like to mention people without whom this CAL would not be possible.
Esther from It’s All In a Nutshell. Thank you so much for you fantastic video’s!
My just the best testers! Cindy, Margo, Raquel, Dominique, Christine, Lori thank you very much for spending your precious time and helping me to test this project. I know it was not the easiest test and many corrections and adjustments were made. Without you this CAL would never go live!
Massiel Lago and fantastic team of translators. Thank you very much for translating my CAL into so many languages.
Susan Cutler Cutrer thank you so much for taking care of the CAL in Official CCC Social Group on Facebook. I know you had to get up early every Wednesday to post on time.
Donna Wilson thank you very much for taking care of our Ravelry group.
Scheepjes and Wool Warehouse*! Thank you very much for sponsoring this CAL and making kits available for purchase.
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
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