Showing posts with label Linen soft. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Linen soft. Show all posts
Peacock Tail Bag CAL is finished. Last week final part 6 was released and you joined your bag together and added the band and D-rings. You can start using your bag right away or you can line it up with fabric.
If you missed some or all the parts of this CAL, please check page with General Information HERE, and also Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5 and Part 6.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
I used Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes and 2.75mm (С) Clover Soft Touch hook*. Linen Soft is available for purchase via Wool Warehouse HERE* (international shipping), Paradise Fibers (US) HERE* or in your local Scheepjes shop. Separate bag handles, magnetic clasps and D-rings are available via Wool Warehouse HERE*.
If you bought the kit, you should have all materials for the lining included: a piece of fabric, white interfacing and magnetic clasp.
You will also need a ruler, sewing chalk (or just a pencil), scissors, sewing pins (or normal pins if you don’t have sewing), sewing thread in matching color for crocheted band of your bag.
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
Note: Unfortunately there will be no video available for this part. But I am happy to announce translations will be added soon. But if you would like to translate it into your own language right away - please use "Translate" button in the right side on my blog.
There are different types of fabric included in Deep and Pastel kits. Deep version has a 100% polyester fabric, and pastel is rayon. If you have fabric made of natural fibre, you may want to wash it first and then iron. Please, be careful with ironing fabric from Deep kit!! It may leave paint on your ironing board! So better use a piece of other fabric underneath.
If you haven’t blocked your bag – now it’s the last chance to do it.
Picture 1: After your fabric is prepared, fold it inside out so that it’s enough for your bag. Put bag onto fabric.
Picture 2: Draw a line with chalk around the bag.
Picture 3: Remove the bag.
Picture 4: Pin 2 layers of fabric together with sewing pins.
Picture 5: Cut the detail leaving 1cm (1/2 inch) space from line.
Picture 6: Two main details are ready.
Picture 1: Measure depth of the band.
Picture 2: Fold fabric inside out and put main detail above. Draw a line along bag’s opening and two sides. Remove the bag.
Picture 3: Measure the depth of the band from the top of the opening + 1cm (1/2 inch). In my case the band is 5cm deep. So I measured 6cm depth for the band details.
Picture 4: Pin 2 layers of fabric together with sewing pins. Cut band details out.
Important!! I strongly recommend to try ironing with a small piece of fabric and interfacing to make sure you understand how everything works!!
Picture 1: Cut 2 band details from interfacing (fold interfacing, pin fabric band detail above and cut around).
Picture 2: Now you will iron interfacing band details onto the wrong side of main details. Place a piece of white fabric onto ironing board, one main detail (facing the board with right side) and interfacing band above.
Picture 3: Place damp white fabric onto interfacing and press firmly with your hand. Then iron for 12 seconds. When you remove the fabric your main detail and interfacing should be glued to each other.
Picture 4: Place fabric band onto top of main detail (covering interfacing) and pin all 3 details with sewing pins.
Repeat step 4 for second main detail.
You can make a pocket for your bag if you wish. Cut a rectangle of needed shape. Fold upper edge twice and sew a line (with sewing machine of by hand) along it.
Then fold all three remaining edges and sew the pocket along three sides to one of the main details (on the right side).
This step is probably the most tricky. I have never inserted magnetic clasps before. And I was trying to find a solution how to add an extra thickness to fabric in a place where the clasp is attached. And I decided to add two small crocheted circles.
I made them with the same yarn as for the bag’s band.
Rnd 1. Make magic ring, ch1, 6sc into a ring.
Rnd 2. Skip ch1, make 2sc in each stitch. Finish with slip stitch into next stitch. Cut yarn, fasten off, weave yarn tails in.
It’s very important to exactly define the place where the clasp will be attached. Find a center of the band and mark the spot where you want the clasp to be. Please, remember that we left 1cm (1/2 inch) along the bag’s opening. So when deciding about the clasp position, don’t count this 1cm. to make it easier – place the clasp a little bit lower and closer to the bottom of the band rather than to the top. In the picture below you can see how I made it. But I would place the clasp even lower.
Picture 1: Make two tiny holes with scissors on the right side in a place marked for the clasp (through all three layers).
Picture 2: Insert the clasp through the holes.
Picture 3: Wear crocheted circle onto "legs" of clasp.
Picture 4: Place securing ring on the clasp and bend the clasp’s “legs” to the sides.
Insert second part of the clasp to another detail. Make sure that the position of both parts of a clasp is central and the height matches perfectly!!
Option: you can also insert a zipper into the opening of your bag. Like Esther’s mother did for her. Isn’t it just a perfect solution? Check more pictures HERE.
Place 2 main details onto each other with right sides facing, center them and sew along the sides and bottom of the bag (1cm (1/2 inch) from edge) leaving the bag’s opening unworked.
Picture 1: Turn lining inside out. Turn bag inside out. Wear lining onto the bag. (Wrong sides of bag and lining are facing each other), match seams on sides.
Picture 2: Fold upper edge of the lining inside for 1cm (1/2 inch) and pin it to the upper edge of the crocheted band. Sew lining to the crocheted band either with sewing machine or by hand.
Turn the whole bag inside out. Ta-dah!!!!! Your lining is finished!!
I really hope this tutorial is clear and easy to follow. I tried to describe each step in the most easiest way and I hope you could handle it!
Don’t forget to show our bags off on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Ravelry. Please always use hashtag #PeacockTailBagCAL so that I could find them and admire!
Thank you so much for following this CAL. For me it was much of fun. I hope for you, too!
In the end I would like to mention people without whom this CAL would not be possible.
Esther from It’s All In a Nutshell. Thank you so much for you fantastic video’s!
My just the best testers! Cindy, Margo, Raquel, Dominique, Christine, Lori thank you very much for spending your precious time and helping me to test this project. I know it was not the easiest test and many corrections and adjustments were made. Without you this CAL would never go live!
Massiel Lago and fantastic team of translators. Thank you very much for translating my CAL into so many languages.
Susan Cutler Cutrer thank you so much for taking care of the CAL in Official CCC Social Group on Facebook. I know you had to get up early every Wednesday to post on time.
Donna Wilson thank you very much for taking care of our Ravelry group.
Scheepjes and Wool Warehouse*! Thank you very much for sponsoring this CAL and making kits available for purchase.
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Lining is always a better solution for handmade bags, as it gives the bag a better hang and helps to keep its shape. Even if you are not a good sewer, and even if you don’t have a sewing machine – don’t worry. I am not good at sewing at all. I asked my friend Kate Tikota (a designer behind Tikota Unique) to help me with this tutorial. And we tried to make it as simple as possible. And you can sew the lining by hand!
If you missed some or all the parts of this CAL, please check page with General Information HERE, and also Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4, Part 5 and Part 6.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
I used Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes and 2.75mm (С) Clover Soft Touch hook*. Linen Soft is available for purchase via Wool Warehouse HERE* (international shipping), Paradise Fibers (US) HERE* or in your local Scheepjes shop. Separate bag handles, magnetic clasps and D-rings are available via Wool Warehouse HERE*.
What you will need:
If you bought the kit, you should have all materials for the lining included: a piece of fabric, white interfacing and magnetic clasp.
You will also need a ruler, sewing chalk (or just a pencil), scissors, sewing pins (or normal pins if you don’t have sewing), sewing thread in matching color for crocheted band of your bag.
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
Tutorial: Lining
Note: Unfortunately there will be no video available for this part. But I am happy to announce translations will be added soon. But if you would like to translate it into your own language right away - please use "Translate" button in the right side on my blog.
Step 1. Wash and Iron Fabric
There are different types of fabric included in Deep and Pastel kits. Deep version has a 100% polyester fabric, and pastel is rayon. If you have fabric made of natural fibre, you may want to wash it first and then iron. Please, be careful with ironing fabric from Deep kit!! It may leave paint on your ironing board! So better use a piece of other fabric underneath.
If you haven’t blocked your bag – now it’s the last chance to do it.
Step 2. Cut Main Detail (two)
Picture 1: After your fabric is prepared, fold it inside out so that it’s enough for your bag. Put bag onto fabric.
Picture 2: Draw a line with chalk around the bag.
Picture 3: Remove the bag.
Picture 4: Pin 2 layers of fabric together with sewing pins.
Picture 5: Cut the detail leaving 1cm (1/2 inch) space from line.
Picture 6: Two main details are ready.
Step 3. Cut Band Detail (two)
Picture 1: Measure depth of the band.
Picture 2: Fold fabric inside out and put main detail above. Draw a line along bag’s opening and two sides. Remove the bag.
Picture 3: Measure the depth of the band from the top of the opening + 1cm (1/2 inch). In my case the band is 5cm deep. So I measured 6cm depth for the band details.
Picture 4: Pin 2 layers of fabric together with sewing pins. Cut band details out.
Step 4. Interfacing
Interfacing is a special kind of material which is ironed onto fabric to give it extra thickness and sturdiness. We will use interfacing to strengthen the bag’s band. Interfacing has two side: one is with gloss – and this is the one where glue is. To stick fabric and interfacing together, you should place interfacing with glue onto fabric.
Important!! I strongly recommend to try ironing with a small piece of fabric and interfacing to make sure you understand how everything works!!
Picture 1: Cut 2 band details from interfacing (fold interfacing, pin fabric band detail above and cut around).
Picture 2: Now you will iron interfacing band details onto the wrong side of main details. Place a piece of white fabric onto ironing board, one main detail (facing the board with right side) and interfacing band above.
Picture 3: Place damp white fabric onto interfacing and press firmly with your hand. Then iron for 12 seconds. When you remove the fabric your main detail and interfacing should be glued to each other.
Picture 4: Place fabric band onto top of main detail (covering interfacing) and pin all 3 details with sewing pins.
Repeat step 4 for second main detail.
Step 5 (optional). Pocket
You can make a pocket for your bag if you wish. Cut a rectangle of needed shape. Fold upper edge twice and sew a line (with sewing machine of by hand) along it.
Then fold all three remaining edges and sew the pocket along three sides to one of the main details (on the right side).
Step 6. Magnetic Clasp
This step is probably the most tricky. I have never inserted magnetic clasps before. And I was trying to find a solution how to add an extra thickness to fabric in a place where the clasp is attached. And I decided to add two small crocheted circles.
I made them with the same yarn as for the bag’s band.
Rnd 1. Make magic ring, ch1, 6sc into a ring.
Rnd 2. Skip ch1, make 2sc in each stitch. Finish with slip stitch into next stitch. Cut yarn, fasten off, weave yarn tails in.
It’s very important to exactly define the place where the clasp will be attached. Find a center of the band and mark the spot where you want the clasp to be. Please, remember that we left 1cm (1/2 inch) along the bag’s opening. So when deciding about the clasp position, don’t count this 1cm. to make it easier – place the clasp a little bit lower and closer to the bottom of the band rather than to the top. In the picture below you can see how I made it. But I would place the clasp even lower.
Picture 1: Make two tiny holes with scissors on the right side in a place marked for the clasp (through all three layers).
Picture 2: Insert the clasp through the holes.
Picture 3: Wear crocheted circle onto "legs" of clasp.
Picture 4: Place securing ring on the clasp and bend the clasp’s “legs” to the sides.
Insert second part of the clasp to another detail. Make sure that the position of both parts of a clasp is central and the height matches perfectly!!
Option: you can also insert a zipper into the opening of your bag. Like Esther’s mother did for her. Isn’t it just a perfect solution? Check more pictures HERE.
Step 7. Finishing
Place 2 main details onto each other with right sides facing, center them and sew along the sides and bottom of the bag (1cm (1/2 inch) from edge) leaving the bag’s opening unworked.
Picture 1: Turn lining inside out. Turn bag inside out. Wear lining onto the bag. (Wrong sides of bag and lining are facing each other), match seams on sides.
Picture 2: Fold upper edge of the lining inside for 1cm (1/2 inch) and pin it to the upper edge of the crocheted band. Sew lining to the crocheted band either with sewing machine or by hand.
Turn the whole bag inside out. Ta-dah!!!!! Your lining is finished!!
I really hope this tutorial is clear and easy to follow. I tried to describe each step in the most easiest way and I hope you could handle it!
Don’t forget to show our bags off on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest and Ravelry. Please always use hashtag #PeacockTailBagCAL so that I could find them and admire!
Thank you so much for following this CAL. For me it was much of fun. I hope for you, too!
Many thanks!
In the end I would like to mention people without whom this CAL would not be possible.
Esther from It’s All In a Nutshell. Thank you so much for you fantastic video’s!
My just the best testers! Cindy, Margo, Raquel, Dominique, Christine, Lori thank you very much for spending your precious time and helping me to test this project. I know it was not the easiest test and many corrections and adjustments were made. Without you this CAL would never go live!
Massiel Lago and fantastic team of translators. Thank you very much for translating my CAL into so many languages.
Susan Cutler Cutrer thank you so much for taking care of the CAL in Official CCC Social Group on Facebook. I know you had to get up early every Wednesday to post on time.
Donna Wilson thank you very much for taking care of our Ravelry group.
Scheepjes and Wool Warehouse*! Thank you very much for sponsoring this CAL and making kits available for purchase.
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Today is the day with very mixed emotions. It’s Wednesday again, and time for last crochet part of Peacock Tail Bag CAL to be released. It feels sad… a little bit. But very happy at the same time, as every day I can browse hundreds of your beautiful peacock bags! And I just enjoy looking at them. Please, don’t stop posting them! Today’s part is probably the easiest but very important. You will finally join front and back of your bag together, add a band and attach D-rings. It also means you can start using your bag at once. Or wait for one more week and line it with fabric.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
If it’s the first time you hear about this CAL, please check page with General Information HERE, and also Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4 and Part 5. UPDATE: lining tutorial was released and can be found HERE.
Important Notes
I don’t really have any important notes to share with you today. Maybe just a small remind that you should work quite tight on the band, so that it is stiff enough to keep its shape. It is especially important if you don’t intend to line your bag with fabric.
The band is made with single crochet stitches. If you feel it’s not getting stiff enough – please, change to a smaller hook. I know that for someone it will be a painful pain, as you already work with a smallest possible hook. Don’t worry about it. You can also stay with the same hook. Just do what you are comfortable with.
Tags on Ravelry. Do you know that you can use tags for your projects on Ravelry? They help your projects to pop-up higher in an advanced Ravelry search. If you haven’t attached any tags to your Peacock Tail projects, please, do that. Here are just a few tags you can use: peacock-tail-bag, CAL, bag, overlay, colourwork, phototutoroal…
EDIT: ok! Just decided to add another note. After you join front and back togehter you will notice that they don't fit with the shape at 100%. I did my best to bring the bag's shape to the best possible symmetry... After you add the band everything should work itself out and your bag should look nicely. BUT! Because of your personal crochet style the wings can be much higher than mine. If you feel you don't like it and if you feel like correcting bag's opening, please, TRY first to make a straight line with surface crochet slip stitches (tutorial is HERE) around the bag's opening. And then crochet 1st round of the band in these stitches (and on round 2 you will probably not need to make any hdc).
Just a small remind. I am using Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes and 2.75mm (С) Clover Soft Touch hook*. Linen Soft is available for purchase via Wool Warehouse HERE* (international shipping), Paradise Fibers (US) HERE* or in your local Scheepjes shop. Separate bag handles, magnetic clasps and D-rings are available via Wool Warehouse HERE*.
If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
INSTRUCTIONS: PART 6
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sc single crochet
************************************************************
Putting bag together
Before starting to join front and back parts of your bag – carefully weave all yarn tails in (if you haven’t done this before). The edges will look neat if you unweave all slip knots in the beginning of each row.
To join front and back parts of your bag, place them together with wrong sides facing and start joining with single crochet using C4 (C6) in sts of row 33 (145 sts in total). Insert the hook through both layers (under 4 loops).
Now turn work a quarter and start crocheting around opening of the bag.
Rnd 1. First you will be crocheting on the front part which consists of 3 parts: two “wings” and round center. Work evenly 27sc on first “wing”, then 1sc in each of 15 sts of circle center and 27sc on next “wing”. Sc in joining row on the side and continue on the back part: 27sc, 15sc, 27sc and 1sc in joining row (140 sc in total on round 1). Mark the last stitch and move marker to the last st of each new round as you progress.
Rnd 2. On this round you will work with hdc on central part (between beginning and end of row 12). For ease, mark beginning and end of row 12 on front and back.
Working on front: Continue with sc till row 12 (in my case 20sc), continue with hdc till beginning or row 12 (in my case 29 hdc), and then continue with sc till the other side of front (20 sc).
Work on back in the same way as on front.
Rnd 3-12. 140 sc around. After rnd 12 join with sl st in next st, fasten off and weave yarn tail in.
Attaching Handles
Make two rectangles with the same yarn as for the band.
Row 1. Ch7, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 5ch. Turn. (6 sts)
Row 2-10. Ch1 (doesn’t count as st), sc in next 6 sts. Turn (6 sts)
Sc around making 3sc in each corner. Finish with sl st, fasten off leaving 25cm (10”) tail. Pull D ring on a rectangle, fold it and sew to one side of the band using yarn tail. Sew 2nd rectangle to the other side of the band. Weave in all yarn tails.
Congratulations!!! Your new Peacock Tail Bag is now finished!! Your can either start using it already or wait till next week and line it with fabric.
Please, also check video made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
You know what? I almost forgot it’s Wednesday today and I should publish Part 5 of the Peacock Tail Bag CAL for you. I checked my e-mail box in the morning and saw files with translations, and I almost had a heart attack! But luckily there were still 2 hours to prepare everything, so here it is!! If it’s first time you hear about this CAL – please, check general information HERE and also Part 1, Part 2, Part 3 and Part 4.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
I have a good excuse for having bad memory though. Yesterday I returned from Sweden, where I spent almost 5 days – all of them sitting by the sea for long-long hours. Totally switched off. I thank you very much for support and lovely comments you gave me last week. They helped me a lot. Shortly after Part 4 was published, I packed my suitcase, left my husband with a kid and a dog and went to Malmö. You might know I have a very special relation with this place, and it already became a tradition to come there every year in late August-early September. I will for sure tell you more about my trip. But now it’s probably better to come back to the CAL.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
1. Yardages and Colors. Today’s part is final before the bag will be joined and put together. So after you finish Part 5 you will know exactly the size of your bag. If your gauge was off and you put back part aside for a while to see how much yarn in each shade will be left, now you can finish both front and back. You should have plenty of C4 and C6 left – and you will use it for the band next week.
2. Special techniques. You will work with short rows on this part – please, be careful when you count the stitches to place 1st stitch of every row correctly. You will attach new yarn by simply pulling a loop in indicated stitch and making ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch). And each row will be finished with a slip stitch.Please, use “modified clusters” again. Tutorial is HERE.
3. Shape and “cupping”. On this part both your back and front will start “cupping” at the bottom. Don’t worry – this is on purpose: to shape the bag’s bottom nicely.
4. Wings and symmetry. You may have already noticed, that wings of you bag are not 100% symmetrical. I tried very hard to bring them to exactly the same shape. But because all the rows are worked on the right side, a turning effect appears, and it was very difficult to get rid of it, and to keep pattern symmetrical at the same time. After you finish part 5, please, try to block both parts to almost the same shape (so that they match nicely when put together with wrong sides). It will NOT work at 100%. But don’t worry. After the band is added, the shape should work itself out.
5. Social Media. Don't forget to share your creations on Instagram and Pinterest. Please use the tag #PeacockTailBagCAL.
Just a small remind. I am using Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes and 2.75mm (С) Clover Soft Touch hook*. Linen Soft is available for purchase via Wool Warehouse HERE* (international shipping), Paradise Fibers (US) HERE* or in your local Scheepjes shop. Separate bag handles, magnetic clasps and D-rings are available via Wool Warehouse HERE*.
If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
FPtr2tog front post treble 2 together
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
Ch1 (doesn’t count as st here and to the end), sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, *FPtr2tog (work 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr’s below), sk no sts, hdc in next 16 sts* 5 times, FPtr2tog (as previous), sk no sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (103 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 27. Change to yarn C5 (C9). Attach yarn in 5th st after ch1.
Note: as in previous parts, make “modified” tr4tog’s here and throughout.
Ch1, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next st, *hdc in next 4 sts, tr4tog in 4th hdc of row 25 before next FPdtr, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in same FPdtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in 4th hdc of row 25 after same FPdtr, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts* 5 times, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (95 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 28. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 5th st after ch1.
Note: Each tr4tog of row 27 “hides” two hdc’s of previous row. Legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around hdc of row 26 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 27 below (but not around the hidden ones).
Ch1, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, *[FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts* 4 times, [FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (91 sts + ch1+sl st)
Row 29. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in 4th st after ch1.
Ch1, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next st, *hdc in next 14 sts, tr4tog in hdc of row 27 visible at the bottom of “V”, sk 1 st, hdc in next 2 sts, tr4tog (as previous), sk 1 st* 3 times, hdc in next 15 sts, sc in next 7 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (84sts+ch1+sl st)
Rnd 30. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 14th st after ch1.
Note: legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around FPtr2tog’s of row 28 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 29 below.
Ch1, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, *hdc in next 13 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st* twice, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st in next st. (59 sts+ch1+sl st)
Row 31. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Attach yarn in 5th st after ch1.
Ch1, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, tr4tog in 1st of 2 sts of row 29 visible at the bottom of underlying “V”, sk 1 st, *hdc in next 17 sts, tr4tog (as previous), sk 1 st* twice, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (49 sts+ch1+sl st)
Row 32. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 4th st after ch1.
Note: legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around FPtr2tog’s of row 30 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 31 below.
Ch1, sc in next 2 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, *sc in next 17 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st* twice, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (41sts+ch1+sl st)
Row 33. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Begin with standing hdc in 1st hdc of row 25.
Note: always make hdc in the same st where yarn was attached, and next hdc in next sc – on one side. Make hdc in last sc of each row and then in the same st of previous row where sl st was made (placing hdc after sl st) – on the other side.
Hdc in 145 sts, fasten off. (145)
After this row your piece should measure 29cm (11 ½”) from top to bottom.
It may happen that your amount of stitches will differ a bit. This is not critical at all. You will only need to take it into consideration while joining front and back parts together. And if the number of stitches differs on both parts – you will need to make several decreases evenly.
Please, try to keep the same gauge as for front. Check measurements after row 33.
On this and all next rows new yarn is attached by simply pulling a loop into indicated st.
Row 26. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 19th st!
Ch1, sc in next 5 sts, *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 13 sts*, 5 times, hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (103 sts + ch1 + sl st )
Row 27. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 3rd st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 86 sts, sc in next 4 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (95 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 28. Change to yarn C4 (C9). Start in 3rd st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 14 sts, *hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts* 4 times, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (91 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 29. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 3rd st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 70 sts, sc in next 7 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (84 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 30. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 11th st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 49 sts, sc in next 4 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (59 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 31. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 5th st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 41 sts, sc in next 3 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (49 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 32. Change to yarn C2 (C9). Start in 4th st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 41 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (41 sts + ch1 + sl st )
Rnd 33. Same as front! Don’t fasten off!
Block front and back parts to the same size (and possibly shape). Wings are not completely symmetrical, but the band will ease things into place. Part 6 is available HERE.
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.
Front:
and Back:
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
I have a good excuse for having bad memory though. Yesterday I returned from Sweden, where I spent almost 5 days – all of them sitting by the sea for long-long hours. Totally switched off. I thank you very much for support and lovely comments you gave me last week. They helped me a lot. Shortly after Part 4 was published, I packed my suitcase, left my husband with a kid and a dog and went to Malmö. You might know I have a very special relation with this place, and it already became a tradition to come there every year in late August-early September. I will for sure tell you more about my trip. But now it’s probably better to come back to the CAL.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
Important Notes
1. Yardages and Colors. Today’s part is final before the bag will be joined and put together. So after you finish Part 5 you will know exactly the size of your bag. If your gauge was off and you put back part aside for a while to see how much yarn in each shade will be left, now you can finish both front and back. You should have plenty of C4 and C6 left – and you will use it for the band next week.
2. Special techniques. You will work with short rows on this part – please, be careful when you count the stitches to place 1st stitch of every row correctly. You will attach new yarn by simply pulling a loop in indicated stitch and making ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch). And each row will be finished with a slip stitch.Please, use “modified clusters” again. Tutorial is HERE.
3. Shape and “cupping”. On this part both your back and front will start “cupping” at the bottom. Don’t worry – this is on purpose: to shape the bag’s bottom nicely.
4. Wings and symmetry. You may have already noticed, that wings of you bag are not 100% symmetrical. I tried very hard to bring them to exactly the same shape. But because all the rows are worked on the right side, a turning effect appears, and it was very difficult to get rid of it, and to keep pattern symmetrical at the same time. After you finish part 5, please, try to block both parts to almost the same shape (so that they match nicely when put together with wrong sides). It will NOT work at 100%. But don’t worry. After the band is added, the shape should work itself out.
5. Social Media. Don't forget to share your creations on Instagram and Pinterest. Please use the tag #PeacockTailBagCAL.
Just a small remind. I am using Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes and 2.75mm (С) Clover Soft Touch hook*. Linen Soft is available for purchase via Wool Warehouse HERE* (international shipping), Paradise Fibers (US) HERE* or in your local Scheepjes shop. Separate bag handles, magnetic clasps and D-rings are available via Wool Warehouse HERE*.
If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
INSTRUCTIONS: PART5
Edit: some translations are not ready at the moment. they will be added in next days or even hours. Sorry for delay. the files are in proof-read at the moment.
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
FPtr2tog front post treble 2 together
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
FRONT PART
Row 26. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Attach yarn in 18th st.
Ch1 (doesn’t count as st here and to the end), sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, *FPtr2tog (work 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr’s below), sk no sts, hdc in next 16 sts* 5 times, FPtr2tog (as previous), sk no sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (103 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 27. Change to yarn C5 (C9). Attach yarn in 5th st after ch1.
Note: as in previous parts, make “modified” tr4tog’s here and throughout.
Ch1, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next st, *hdc in next 4 sts, tr4tog in 4th hdc of row 25 before next FPdtr, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in same FPdtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in 4th hdc of row 25 after same FPdtr, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts* 5 times, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (95 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 28. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 5th st after ch1.
Note: Each tr4tog of row 27 “hides” two hdc’s of previous row. Legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around hdc of row 26 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 27 below (but not around the hidden ones).
Ch1, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, *[FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts* 4 times, [FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts] 3 times, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (91 sts + ch1+sl st)
Row 29. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in 4th st after ch1.
Ch1, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next st, *hdc in next 14 sts, tr4tog in hdc of row 27 visible at the bottom of “V”, sk 1 st, hdc in next 2 sts, tr4tog (as previous), sk 1 st* 3 times, hdc in next 15 sts, sc in next 7 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (84sts+ch1+sl st)
Rnd 30. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 14th st after ch1.
Note: legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around FPtr2tog’s of row 28 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 29 below.
Ch1, sc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 4 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, *hdc in next 13 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st* twice, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 6 sts, sl st in next st. (59 sts+ch1+sl st)
Row 31. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Attach yarn in 5th st after ch1.
Ch1, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, tr4tog in 1st of 2 sts of row 29 visible at the bottom of underlying “V”, sk 1 st, *hdc in next 17 sts, tr4tog (as previous), sk 1 st* twice, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (49 sts+ch1+sl st)
Row 32. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 4th st after ch1.
Note: legs of FPtr2tog’s are made around FPtr2tog’s of row 30 lying to the right and to the left of tr4tog of row 31 below.
Ch1, sc in next 2 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st, *sc in next 17 sts, FPtr2tog, sk 1 st* twice, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st; fasten off. (41sts+ch1+sl st)
Row 33. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Begin with standing hdc in 1st hdc of row 25.
Note: always make hdc in the same st where yarn was attached, and next hdc in next sc – on one side. Make hdc in last sc of each row and then in the same st of previous row where sl st was made (placing hdc after sl st) – on the other side.
Hdc in 145 sts, fasten off. (145)
After this row your piece should measure 29cm (11 ½”) from top to bottom.
It may happen that your amount of stitches will differ a bit. This is not critical at all. You will only need to take it into consideration while joining front and back parts together. And if the number of stitches differs on both parts – you will need to make several decreases evenly.
Back Part
Please, try to keep the same gauge as for front. Check measurements after row 33.
On this and all next rows new yarn is attached by simply pulling a loop into indicated st.
Row 26. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 19th st!
Ch1, sc in next 5 sts, *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 13 sts*, 5 times, hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 sts, sc in next 5 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (103 sts + ch1 + sl st )
Row 27. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 3rd st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 86 sts, sc in next 4 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (95 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 28. Change to yarn C4 (C9). Start in 3rd st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 14 sts, *hdc in next st, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 15 sts* 4 times, sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (91 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 29. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 3rd st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 70 sts, sc in next 7 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (84 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 30. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 11th st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 6 sts, hdc in next 49 sts, sc in next 4 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (59 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 31. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 5th st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 41 sts, sc in next 3 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (49 sts + ch1 + sl st)
Row 32. Change to yarn C2 (C9). Start in 4th st after ch1!
Ch1, sc in next 41 sts, sl st in next st, fasten off. (41 sts + ch1 + sl st )
Rnd 33. Same as front! Don’t fasten off!
Block front and back parts to the same size (and possibly shape). Wings are not completely symmetrical, but the band will ease things into place. Part 6 is available HERE.
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.
Front:
and Back:
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Hi there! Is it Wednesday again and time for Part 4 of a Peacock Tail Bag? Yes and Yes! Not very many important notes for today as you know almost everything already. And you will be just repeating the same elements you used in previous parts. To make it easier for you – here are the previous parts: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3 and General Information about this mini CAL can be found HERE.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
Part 5 can be found HERE.
I should tell you something… I am coming through a very tough time these days. I can’t understand how the world can be so unfair and wrong. If only I could, I would just stay in a small circle of my family and friends, and with you – who support me and help me to keep designing. Last two days were extremely difficult and I was almost about to quit designing at all. But then I came to Instagram, and browsed latest posts. And saw your wonderful pictures of the Peacock Tail Bag, and read your lovely comments. Really… This vibrancy of colors and your love almost made me cry. Thank you very much for staying with me, for reading this blog and for supporting me.
Well… anyway. Here is what I wanted to tell you before we jump to Part 4.
1. Today’s part is critical for your bag’s width, because next part will be worked in short rows (and Part 6 will be only about joining and putting your bag together). We’ve discussed the importance of correct gauge already. But I was also asked about the kits and if interfacing and fabric will be enough for lining in case your bag is turning out to be bigger.
Well, if your bag will get not more than 48cm deep (which can hardly be possible), then the fabric is ok. You also have two pieces of interfacing (10cm x 40cm). If after Part 4 your bag is not wider (on the top, from side to side) than 37cm (14 ½ inches) than you are ok with interfacing, too.
2. Please, use the same techniques as for previous two parts, it means “modified clusters” and standing hdc for beginning of the rows. Just to remind you, the tutorials can be found HERE and HERE.
3. If you use Instagram and Pinterest, please, mark all your posts with #PeacockTailBagCAL so that I could find them, and love them.
Just a small remind. I am using Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes and 2.75mm (С) Clover Soft Touch hook*. Linen Soft is available for purchase via Wool Warehouse HERE* (international shipping), Paradise Fibers (US) HERE* or in your local Scheepjes shop. Separate bag handles, magnetic clasps and D-rings are available via Wool Warehouse HERE*.
If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
And (surprisingly) this is everything I wanted to tell you today! :)
Let’s begin!!
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
Row 20. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 2nd st, *hdc in next 7 sts, FPtr around st of row 18 which was made in FPtr of row 17 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts, FPtr around st of row 18 which was made after FPtr of row 17 below, sk no sts* 8 times, hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in last st; fasten off. (123)
Row 21. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in 123 sts; fasten off. (123)
Row 22. Note: as in previous parts, make “modified” tr4tog’s here.
Change to yarn C5 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc.
Hdc in 2nd st, *hdc in next 7 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st* 8 times, hdc in 9 next sts; fasten off. (130)
Row 23. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc.
*Hdc in 11 sts, FPtr around directly underlying hdc of row 21, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in last st; fasten off. (130)
Row 24. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc.
Hdc in 4 sts, *hdc in next 4 sts, FPtr around tr4tog below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts, FPtr around tr4tog below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st* 7 times, [hdc in next 4 sts, FPtr around tr4tog below, sk 1 st] twice, hdc in next 10 sts; fasten off. (136)
Row 25. Change to yarn C1 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc.
Note: Feel free to replace FPtr’s with FPdtr’s if needed. After this row your piece should measure 35cm (14”) in widest place.
Hdc in 10 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 15 sts, *tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 7 sts, FPtr around 4th of 7 hdc of row 22 between 2 tr4tog’s, sk 1 st, hdc in next 7 sts* 5 times, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 15 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 12 sts to end; fasten off. (135)
***********************************************************
Please, try to keep the same gauge as for front. Check measurements after row 25.
Row 20. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
2hdc in 2nd st, hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in next 12 sts, 2hdc in next st* 7 times, hdc in next 13 sts, fasten off. (123)
Row 21. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 121 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (123)
Row 22. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 2 sts, *hdc in next 10 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts*, 8 times, hdc in next 8 sts, fasten off. (130)
Row 23. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 128 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (130)
Row 24. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 20 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 14 sts* 7 times, hdc in next 4 sts, fasten off. (136)
Row 25. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 135 sts, fasten off. (135)
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.
Front:
and Back:
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
Part 5 can be found HERE.
I should tell you something… I am coming through a very tough time these days. I can’t understand how the world can be so unfair and wrong. If only I could, I would just stay in a small circle of my family and friends, and with you – who support me and help me to keep designing. Last two days were extremely difficult and I was almost about to quit designing at all. But then I came to Instagram, and browsed latest posts. And saw your wonderful pictures of the Peacock Tail Bag, and read your lovely comments. Really… This vibrancy of colors and your love almost made me cry. Thank you very much for staying with me, for reading this blog and for supporting me.
Well… anyway. Here is what I wanted to tell you before we jump to Part 4.
Important Notes
1. Today’s part is critical for your bag’s width, because next part will be worked in short rows (and Part 6 will be only about joining and putting your bag together). We’ve discussed the importance of correct gauge already. But I was also asked about the kits and if interfacing and fabric will be enough for lining in case your bag is turning out to be bigger.
Well, if your bag will get not more than 48cm deep (which can hardly be possible), then the fabric is ok. You also have two pieces of interfacing (10cm x 40cm). If after Part 4 your bag is not wider (on the top, from side to side) than 37cm (14 ½ inches) than you are ok with interfacing, too.
2. Please, use the same techniques as for previous two parts, it means “modified clusters” and standing hdc for beginning of the rows. Just to remind you, the tutorials can be found HERE and HERE.
3. If you use Instagram and Pinterest, please, mark all your posts with #PeacockTailBagCAL so that I could find them, and love them.
Just a small remind. I am using Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes and 2.75mm (С) Clover Soft Touch hook*. Linen Soft is available for purchase via Wool Warehouse HERE* (international shipping), Paradise Fibers (US) HERE* or in your local Scheepjes shop. Separate bag handles, magnetic clasps and D-rings are available via Wool Warehouse HERE*.
If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
And (surprisingly) this is everything I wanted to tell you today! :)
Let’s begin!!
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
INSTRUCTIONS: PART4
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
FRONT PART
Row 20. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 2nd st, *hdc in next 7 sts, FPtr around st of row 18 which was made in FPtr of row 17 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts, FPtr around st of row 18 which was made after FPtr of row 17 below, sk no sts* 8 times, hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in last st; fasten off. (123)
Row 21. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in 123 sts; fasten off. (123)
Row 22. Note: as in previous parts, make “modified” tr4tog’s here.
Change to yarn C5 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc.
Hdc in 2nd st, *hdc in next 7 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st* 8 times, hdc in 9 next sts; fasten off. (130)
Row 23. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc.
*Hdc in 11 sts, FPtr around directly underlying hdc of row 21, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in last st; fasten off. (130)
Row 24. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc.
Hdc in 4 sts, *hdc in next 4 sts, FPtr around tr4tog below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts, FPtr around tr4tog below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st* 7 times, [hdc in next 4 sts, FPtr around tr4tog below, sk 1 st] twice, hdc in next 10 sts; fasten off. (136)
Row 25. Change to yarn C1 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc.
Note: Feel free to replace FPtr’s with FPdtr’s if needed. After this row your piece should measure 35cm (14”) in widest place.
Hdc in 10 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 15 sts, *tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 7 sts, FPtr around 4th of 7 hdc of row 22 between 2 tr4tog’s, sk 1 st, hdc in next 7 sts* 5 times, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 15 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 12 sts to end; fasten off. (135)
***********************************************************
Back Part
Please, try to keep the same gauge as for front. Check measurements after row 25.
Row 20. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
2hdc in 2nd st, hdc in next 8 sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in next 12 sts, 2hdc in next st* 7 times, hdc in next 13 sts, fasten off. (123)
Row 21. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 121 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (123)
Row 22. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 2 sts, *hdc in next 10 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts*, 8 times, hdc in next 8 sts, fasten off. (130)
Row 23. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 128 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (130)
Row 24. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 20 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 14 sts* 7 times, hdc in next 4 sts, fasten off. (136)
Row 25. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 135 sts, fasten off. (135)
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.
Front:
and Back:
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
For those of you who follow Peacock Tail Bag CAL – here is the Part 2. This part is a little bit more intricate than previous one. You will make many more front post stitches. And clusters will also be added today. If you have joined the CAL just now, please, first check General Information HERE. And Part 1 is available HERE.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
I will not overload with lots of information today. I suppose that if you completed Part 1 you have also read all the important notes. But for today’s part there is something more you need to know and keep in mind.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
Part 3 can be found HERE.
And seems like this is everything I wanted to draw your attention to. Let’s jump to Part 2 now!
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Indonesian
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
Row 8. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Make 1st (standing) hdc in 1st hdc of hdc increase of rnd 7 that comes after group of 13 sc. Modified tr4tog’s are used on this row and throughout the pattern. Please, check this tutorial about how to attach them around the post.
Make a slip knot (here and throughout), hdc in next 5 sts, *tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 3rd of 5 hdc of rnd 6 lying between 2 FPtr’s, sk no sts, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts, fasten off. (75)
Row 9. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 1st hdc of row 8.
Hdc in each of 75 sts, fasten off. (75)
Row 10. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 5 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (84)
Row 11. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in each of 84 sts, fasten off. (84)
Row 12. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
Note: all increases are made directly above tr4tog’s of row 10.
Hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 1st hdc of hdc increase of row 10 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st* 8 times, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 1st hdc of hdc increase of row 10 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts; fasten off. (91)
Row 13. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Start in 1st hdc.
Note: you will get 8 “U” on this row. After this row your piece should measure 20cm (8”) in widest place.
Hdc in next 3 sts, *hdc in next 5 sts, ch4, FPsc around 3 sts on row 11 (find tr4tog on row 10 below. Make FPsc into the st of row 11 that goes into the st before this tr4tog, in this tr4tog and the one after it), ch4, sk 5 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 8 sts; fasten off. (91)
**********************************************************
Row 8. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Make 1st (standing) hdc in 1st hdc of hdc increase of rnd 7 that comes after group of 13 sc.
Hdc in next 5 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 6 sts; fasten off. (75)
Row 9. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc of row 8.
Hdc in next 73 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (75)
Row 10. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc!
2hdc in 2nd st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st* 8 times, hdc in next 5 sts, fasten off. (84)
Row 11. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 82 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (84)
Row 12. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 9 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 8 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, fasten off. (91)
Row 13. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 89 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (91)
Congratulations!!! Part 2 is finished!!
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshel.
Front:
Back:
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
See you next Wednesday!
p.s. I am away this week with very poor Internet connection. If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
I will not overload with lots of information today. I suppose that if you completed Part 1 you have also read all the important notes. But for today’s part there is something more you need to know and keep in mind.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
Part 3 can be found HERE.
Important Notes:
- !!! I have noticed that some of you decided to make overlay design for both front and back... Please, DON'T do that!!! The pattern is written in mirror way - for front and back to match in the end. If you make two fronts - they will not match each other in shape!!!
- PLEASE, keep your gauge correct on this and next parts. If you are using ready kits you can run out of certain shades if your bag is turning out to be bigger. If it happens, please, take a smaller hook or try to crochet tighter.
- This part (and all the rest) is crocheted in rows on the right side. And all the rows are started with standing hdc. There are several ways of making them, but I would recommend to begin with a slip knot. It’s important because next rows will either begin in 1st or 2nd hdc, and if you have a slip knot in the beginning, then it is very easy to identify very first stitch. Esther from It’s All In A Nutshell has a video tutorial on this (HERE).
- Note, that some rows are started in 1st stitch, and some of them - in 2nd stitch. Please, be attentive and careful about that.
- If you prefer to weave in yarn tails “as-you-go”, please note that the edges will look neat if before weaving you unweave slip knots in the beginning of each row.
- Except of front post stitches (which should be made to the height of working round – as in Part 1) you will be making clusters today. Or to be more precise – treble crochet 4 together. But instead of usual clusters I used “modified” in the pattern. Please, check THIS tutorial to see how they should be attached correctly.
- If you are using kits – the color way for Deep and Pastel versions are not the same on some rows.
And seems like this is everything I wanted to draw your attention to. Let’s jump to Part 2 now!
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
INSTRUCTIONS: PART 2
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Indonesian
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
FRONT PART
Row 8. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Make 1st (standing) hdc in 1st hdc of hdc increase of rnd 7 that comes after group of 13 sc. Modified tr4tog’s are used on this row and throughout the pattern. Please, check this tutorial about how to attach them around the post.
Make a slip knot (here and throughout), hdc in next 5 sts, *tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 3rd of 5 hdc of rnd 6 lying between 2 FPtr’s, sk no sts, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts, fasten off. (75)
Row 9. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 1st hdc of row 8.
Hdc in each of 75 sts, fasten off. (75)
Row 10. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 5 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (84)
Row 11. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in each of 84 sts, fasten off. (84)
Row 12. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
Note: all increases are made directly above tr4tog’s of row 10.
Hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 1st hdc of hdc increase of row 10 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st* 8 times, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 1st hdc of hdc increase of row 10 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts; fasten off. (91)
Row 13. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Start in 1st hdc.
Note: you will get 8 “U” on this row. After this row your piece should measure 20cm (8”) in widest place.
Hdc in next 3 sts, *hdc in next 5 sts, ch4, FPsc around 3 sts on row 11 (find tr4tog on row 10 below. Make FPsc into the st of row 11 that goes into the st before this tr4tog, in this tr4tog and the one after it), ch4, sk 5 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 8 sts; fasten off. (91)
**********************************************************
BACK PART
Row 8. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Make 1st (standing) hdc in 1st hdc of hdc increase of rnd 7 that comes after group of 13 sc.
Hdc in next 5 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 6 sts; fasten off. (75)
Row 9. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc of row 8.
Hdc in next 73 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (75)
Row 10. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc!
2hdc in 2nd st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st* 8 times, hdc in next 5 sts, fasten off. (84)
Row 11. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 82 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (84)
Row 12. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 9 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 8 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, fasten off. (91)
Row 13. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 89 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (91)
Congratulations!!! Part 2 is finished!!
Front:
Back:
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
See you next Wednesday!
p.s. I am away this week with very poor Internet connection. If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
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