Showing posts with label Part 2. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Part 2. Show all posts
Welcome to Part 2 of April Showers Mandala crochet make-a-long. Today we will be shaping cetral overlay medallion into a beautiful spring flower. I’ve made a silly mistake with my sample mandala. Can you spot it? :)
Translations:
Part 1 can be found HERE
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
On next rounds continue with C1.
Note: for easy counts, mark ch2-sps in the corners (you’ll have 8 corners in total)
Round 18: With C1. Make ch5 and 1dc in same st/ch2-sp as join instead of first (dc, ch2, dc) – for all rounds up to round 24.
[(dc, ch2, dc) in next st, *ch1, skip 1 st, dc in next st] x2, ch3, skip 2 sts, 2sc, ch3, skip 2 sts, 1dc, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc, ch1, skip 1 st] x 8, join with ss in first sp – 6 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 19: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, pc in next dc, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in each of next 2 sc, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, pc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 10 dc, 2 pc and 10 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 20: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, ch3, skip sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc and sp, dc in next pc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch2, 1sc in each of next 2dc, ch2, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next pc, ch3, skip sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 8 dc, 4 sc, 4 ch1-sps, 4 ch3-sps and 2 ch2-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 21: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip dc and sp, pc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, 1dc in each of next 2 sc, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, ch1, pc in next dc, ch1, skip sp and dc] x 8, join with ss in first sp – 12 dc, 2 pc, 12 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 22: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, ch1, dc in next pc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, 1sc in each of next 2 dc, 1sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next pc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 8 dc, 6sc, 4 ch1-sps and 6 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 23: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, ch1, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and sc, 1sc in each of next 2 sc, ch3, skip next sc and sp, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, skip next sp and dc] x8, join with ss in first sp – 12 dc, 2 sc, 2 ch3-sps and 10 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 24: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, dc in next dc, *dc in next sp, dc in next dc* until ch3-sp, 2dc in next ch3-sp, dc2tog over next 2 sc, 2dc in next ch3-sp, dc in next dc, *dc in next sp, dc in next dc* until next ch2-sp in the corner] x8 making last dc in joining ss of prev round, join with ss in first sp (change to C4, cut C1) – 28 dc and 1dc2tog on each side, ch2-sps in each of 8 corners
Next week we will add another lace part and edging border. And your April Showers Mandala will be finished!
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Translations:
Nederlands - vertaald door Carmen Jorissen (New Leaf Designs)
INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
On next rounds continue with C1.
Note: for easy counts, mark ch2-sps in the corners (you’ll have 8 corners in total)
Round 18: With C1. Make ch5 and 1dc in same st/ch2-sp as join instead of first (dc, ch2, dc) – for all rounds up to round 24.
[(dc, ch2, dc) in next st, *ch1, skip 1 st, dc in next st] x2, ch3, skip 2 sts, 2sc, ch3, skip 2 sts, 1dc, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc, ch1, skip 1 st] x 8, join with ss in first sp – 6 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 19: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, pc in next dc, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in each of next 2 sc, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, pc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 10 dc, 2 pc and 10 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 20: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, ch3, skip sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc and sp, dc in next pc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch2, 1sc in each of next 2dc, ch2, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next pc, ch3, skip sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 8 dc, 4 sc, 4 ch1-sps, 4 ch3-sps and 2 ch2-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 21: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip dc and sp, pc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, 1dc in each of next 2 sc, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, ch1, pc in next dc, ch1, skip sp and dc] x 8, join with ss in first sp – 12 dc, 2 pc, 12 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 22: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, ch1, dc in next pc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, 1sc in each of next 2 dc, 1sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next pc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 8 dc, 6sc, 4 ch1-sps and 6 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 23: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, ch1, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and sc, 1sc in each of next 2 sc, ch3, skip next sc and sp, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, skip next sp and dc] x8, join with ss in first sp – 12 dc, 2 sc, 2 ch3-sps and 10 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 24: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, dc in next dc, *dc in next sp, dc in next dc* until ch3-sp, 2dc in next ch3-sp, dc2tog over next 2 sc, 2dc in next ch3-sp, dc in next dc, *dc in next sp, dc in next dc* until next ch2-sp in the corner] x8 making last dc in joining ss of prev round, join with ss in first sp (change to C4, cut C1) – 28 dc and 1dc2tog on each side, ch2-sps in each of 8 corners
Next week we will add another lace part and edging border. And your April Showers Mandala will be finished!
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Our sea journey continues and Part 2 of Grinda MAL is here. We have left the Stockholm city and our boat is heading to the open sea. The boat was a bit slow while sailing along the city vein between old charming buildings. But now when the city is left behind the speed is faster and we can enjoy fresh wind playing with the hair.
Whether you are sitting on a wooden bench inside the boat or standing on the open deck outside, you can enjoy the magical sea view. And honestly I have never seen anything like this before.
Stockholm Archipelago consists of numerous islands of different sizes and shapes. Some of them are as small as, I don’t know, a playground maybe? With just one house, several trees and a boat parked in the waves. These tiny islands look especially fragile when huge ferries are passing by. And there are lots and lots of them.
Part 2 of Grinda shawl repeats the same lace pattern as in previous part, but with textured popcorns, symbolizing tiny islands in the open sea :)
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete shawl pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Dimensions (after Part 2, blocked): approx. 90cm/35.4” wide, 40cm/15.7” high
Approx. 54-56g of yarn used (Part 1 + Part 2)
Row 18. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] till corner, ch1, V-st in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, [ch1, skip st, 1dc in next st] till end, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (36 dc and 35 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 19. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till corner, ch1, V-st in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till 2 dc left, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (16 dc, 11 sc, 4 ch1-sp and 22 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 20. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] x5,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, V-st in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1pc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st] x5,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x4, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (34 dc, 6pc and 39 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 21. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till corner making last dc in ch2-sp in corner, ch2, 1dc in same ch2-sp, ch3, 1sc in next sp, ch3, 1dc in next pc, repeat lace st till 1 dc left, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (16 dc, 13 sc, 2 ch1-sps and 26 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 22. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] x6,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1pc in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st] x6,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (37 dc, 6pc and 43 ch1-sps on each side, pc in the corner)
Row 23. Ch4, 1dc in same st, repeat lace st till corner, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, V-st in pc in the corner, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till end, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (18 dc, 14 sc, 3 ch1-sp and 28 ch-3 sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 24. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 2 dc left before the corner,
[ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till last st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (41 dc, 7pc and 47 ch1-sps, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 25. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till corner, ch1, V-st in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till 2 dc left, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (20 dc, 15 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 30 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 26. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, pc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st] x7,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, 1pc in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] x7,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, ch1, 1pc in next st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (43 dc, 8pc and 51 ch1-sps, 1 pc in the corner)
Row 27. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till 1 dc left before the corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, V-st in pc in the corner, ch1, 1dc in next sp, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till last st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (22 dc, 16 sc, 5 ch1-sps and 32 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 28. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st] till 3 dc left before corner,
[ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, 1pc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, ch1, 1dc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] x7,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (48 dc, 8 pc and 55 ch1-sps, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 29. Ch4, 1dc in same st, repeat lace st till 1dc before corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till end, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (22 dc, 18 sc, 3 ch1-sps and 36 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 30. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st] till 2 dc left before corner,
[ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, 1pc in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, 1pc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st] x8,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (50 dc, 9pc and 59 ch1-sps on each side, 1pc in the corner)
Row 31. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till 2 dc left before the corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, V-st in pc in corner, ch1, 1dc in next sp, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, repeat lace st till 2 dc left, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (26 dc, 18 sc, 7 ch1-sps and 36 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 32. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 4 dc left before the corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x4, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x5, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 3 dc left, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (64 dc and 63 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 33. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] till corner, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] till end, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (66 dc and 65 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 34. As Row 16. (135 dc on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 35. As Row 17. (139 sts on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete shawl pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Whether you are sitting on a wooden bench inside the boat or standing on the open deck outside, you can enjoy the magical sea view. And honestly I have never seen anything like this before.
Stockholm Archipelago consists of numerous islands of different sizes and shapes. Some of them are as small as, I don’t know, a playground maybe? With just one house, several trees and a boat parked in the waves. These tiny islands look especially fragile when huge ferries are passing by. And there are lots and lots of them.
Part 2 of Grinda shawl repeats the same lace pattern as in previous part, but with textured popcorns, symbolizing tiny islands in the open sea :)
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete shawl pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Translations:
An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, shared, republished (online and off-line), redistributed, translated without permission or edited in any way – in part or in a whole. Please, always credit me as a designer. Thank you!PART 2
Dimensions (after Part 2, blocked): approx. 90cm/35.4” wide, 40cm/15.7” high
Approx. 54-56g of yarn used (Part 1 + Part 2)
Row 18. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] till corner, ch1, V-st in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, [ch1, skip st, 1dc in next st] till end, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (36 dc and 35 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 19. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till corner, ch1, V-st in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till 2 dc left, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (16 dc, 11 sc, 4 ch1-sp and 22 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 20. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] x5,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, V-st in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1pc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st] x5,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x4, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (34 dc, 6pc and 39 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 21. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till corner making last dc in ch2-sp in corner, ch2, 1dc in same ch2-sp, ch3, 1sc in next sp, ch3, 1dc in next pc, repeat lace st till 1 dc left, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (16 dc, 13 sc, 2 ch1-sps and 26 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 22. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] x6,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1pc in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st] x6,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (37 dc, 6pc and 43 ch1-sps on each side, pc in the corner)
Row 23. Ch4, 1dc in same st, repeat lace st till corner, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, V-st in pc in the corner, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till end, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (18 dc, 14 sc, 3 ch1-sp and 28 ch-3 sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 24. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 2 dc left before the corner,
[ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till last st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (41 dc, 7pc and 47 ch1-sps, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 25. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till corner, ch1, V-st in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till 2 dc left, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (20 dc, 15 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 30 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 26. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, pc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st] x7,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, 1pc in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] x7,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, ch1, 1pc in next st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (43 dc, 8pc and 51 ch1-sps, 1 pc in the corner)
Row 27. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till 1 dc left before the corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, V-st in pc in the corner, ch1, 1dc in next sp, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till last st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (22 dc, 16 sc, 5 ch1-sps and 32 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 28. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st] till 3 dc left before corner,
[ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, 1pc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, ch1, 1dc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] x7,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (48 dc, 8 pc and 55 ch1-sps, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 29. Ch4, 1dc in same st, repeat lace st till 1dc before corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till end, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (22 dc, 18 sc, 3 ch1-sps and 36 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 30. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st] till 2 dc left before corner,
[ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, 1pc in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, 1pc in next st,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1pc in next st] x8,
[ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (50 dc, 9pc and 59 ch1-sps on each side, 1pc in the corner)
Row 31. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till 2 dc left before the corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, V-st in pc in corner, ch1, 1dc in next sp, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, repeat lace st till 2 dc left, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (26 dc, 18 sc, 7 ch1-sps and 36 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 32. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 4 dc left before the corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x4, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x5, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 3 dc left, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (64 dc and 63 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 33. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] till corner, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] till end, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (66 dc and 65 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 34. As Row 16. (135 dc on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 35. As Row 17. (139 sts on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete shawl pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
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Hello! How are you? If you are reading this, it means you are probably following Spirits of Life Wrap CAL. And you have probably finished Part 1 released last week. My Facebook feed was flooded with wonderfully beautiful pictures, and they made my heart happy. Part 1 was quite straightforward and easy to follow. And I hope today’s Part 2 will be not very challenging as well. If it’s first time you hear about Spirits of Life CAL, please, check General information HERE.
Are you prepared for a mosaic adventure? Today’s pattern uses Mosaic crochet. If you studied Important Notes for the CAL HERE and practiced a bit, you probably know already what is waiting for you. If not – don’t worry. I prepared detailed written instructions with pictures. And video, of course!
**IMPORTANT** What I would ask you to do is weigh all your colors again before and after Part 2 is finished. And carefully compare and put notes about used amounts into the table, which you can find in Part 1. Mosaic fabric should stay the same width as previous part. No flairs should appear on the edges. If you have them, it means your chains are not tight (and it also means you will use more yarn).
To solve this problem you have two options:
The fabric should not be too stiff and the edges should stay straight. These are basic rules for Part 2. Good news is that there are no tails to weave in. You will work with two colors only changing yarn after every other row. Without cutting it.
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute (online or off-line), sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a ink to my blog with them. You can check Copyright page for more information.
Part 2 - Afrikaans
Part 2 - Czech
Part 2 - Danish
Part 2 - Dutch
Part 2 - English (US)
Part 2 - English (UK)
Part 2 - Finnish
Part 2 - French
Part 2 - German
Part 2 - Hebrew
Part 2 - Norwegian
Part 2 - Polish
Part 2 - Portuguese
Part 2 - Spanish
Part 2 - Swedish
Part 2 - Russian
And here is an order of colors for all three colorways:
I’ve created a video tutorial to help you understand the placement of stitches on every row. As already mentioned, my video’s don’t have voice explanations (they are silent). I’ve got many questions about this on YouTube. And I have really many reasons to keep them as they are. I did my best to carefully show every stitch, and hopefully my video tutorial will be helpful.
For the needs of the video I have made a sample with just two repeats. You will be making more repeats for your own wrap (as per pattern). I marked first or last stitch in every repeat to show you how it looks. And then I am showing the end of every row. So in fact video does illustrate the entire pattern.
And I've added something extra this week. If you open video in YouTube and click "SHOW MORE" in description, you will see a break-down timing for every row. So now to find an exact row you don't need to watch/scroll the whole video :)
You can subscribe to my YouTube channel to have notifications about future videos delivered directly to your e-mail.
Please, take your time to block entire piece after Part 2 is finished. During next several weeks your wrap will be growing in different directions. And it will be very handy to keep dimensions under control.
EDIT: if your gauge is obviously different (smaller or bigger), please don't stretch your fabric too much to given measurements. Just block it "wisely" to get straight edges. And be careful with next parts so they fit together well. And don't worry :) But be aware that if your wrap is coming out bigger you will naturally need more yarn to finish it...
A short remind:
Happy crocheting and see you next week!
(...but I will probably post more this week... My C2C pillow with triangles is almost finished.)
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Are you prepared for a mosaic adventure? Today’s pattern uses Mosaic crochet. If you studied Important Notes for the CAL HERE and practiced a bit, you probably know already what is waiting for you. If not – don’t worry. I prepared detailed written instructions with pictures. And video, of course!
**IMPORTANT** What I would ask you to do is weigh all your colors again before and after Part 2 is finished. And carefully compare and put notes about used amounts into the table, which you can find in Part 1. Mosaic fabric should stay the same width as previous part. No flairs should appear on the edges. If you have them, it means your chains are not tight (and it also means you will use more yarn).
To solve this problem you have two options:
- To make all chains tighter, or
- Reduce all amounts of chains by one. So if pattern calls for ch2, make ch1 instead, and so on.
The fabric should not be too stiff and the edges should stay straight. These are basic rules for Part 2. Good news is that there are no tails to weave in. You will work with two colors only changing yarn after every other row. Without cutting it.
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute (online or off-line), sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a ink to my blog with them. You can check Copyright page for more information.
Part 2 - Afrikaans
Part 2 - Czech
Part 2 - Danish
Part 2 - Dutch
Part 2 - English (US)
Part 2 - English (UK)
Part 2 - Finnish
Part 2 - French
Part 2 - German
Part 2 - Hebrew
Part 2 - Norwegian
Part 2 - Polish
Part 2 - Portuguese
Part 2 - Spanish
Part 2 - Swedish
Part 2 - Russian
And here is an order of colors for all three colorways:
I’ve created a video tutorial to help you understand the placement of stitches on every row. As already mentioned, my video’s don’t have voice explanations (they are silent). I’ve got many questions about this on YouTube. And I have really many reasons to keep them as they are. I did my best to carefully show every stitch, and hopefully my video tutorial will be helpful.
For the needs of the video I have made a sample with just two repeats. You will be making more repeats for your own wrap (as per pattern). I marked first or last stitch in every repeat to show you how it looks. And then I am showing the end of every row. So in fact video does illustrate the entire pattern.
And I've added something extra this week. If you open video in YouTube and click "SHOW MORE" in description, you will see a break-down timing for every row. So now to find an exact row you don't need to watch/scroll the whole video :)
You can subscribe to my YouTube channel to have notifications about future videos delivered directly to your e-mail.
Please, take your time to block entire piece after Part 2 is finished. During next several weeks your wrap will be growing in different directions. And it will be very handy to keep dimensions under control.
EDIT: if your gauge is obviously different (smaller or bigger), please don't stretch your fabric too much to given measurements. Just block it "wisely" to get straight edges. And be careful with next parts so they fit together well. And don't worry :) But be aware that if your wrap is coming out bigger you will naturally need more yarn to finish it...
A short remind:
- Spirits of Life CAL was sponsored by Scheepjes. There are still kits available for purchase (at the time of posting) if you want to buy one. Check information HERE.
- You can join Official CCC Social group on Facebook which is an official host of Spirits of Life CAL. You will get all needed support and help there. You can also join my Ravelry group HERE and ask questions in CAL threads.
Happy crocheting and see you next week!
(...but I will probably post more this week... My C2C pillow with triangles is almost finished.)
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
For those of you who follow Peacock Tail Bag CAL – here is the Part 2. This part is a little bit more intricate than previous one. You will make many more front post stitches. And clusters will also be added today. If you have joined the CAL just now, please, first check General Information HERE. And Part 1 is available HERE.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
I will not overload with lots of information today. I suppose that if you completed Part 1 you have also read all the important notes. But for today’s part there is something more you need to know and keep in mind.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
Part 3 can be found HERE.
And seems like this is everything I wanted to draw your attention to. Let’s jump to Part 2 now!
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Indonesian
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
Row 8. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Make 1st (standing) hdc in 1st hdc of hdc increase of rnd 7 that comes after group of 13 sc. Modified tr4tog’s are used on this row and throughout the pattern. Please, check this tutorial about how to attach them around the post.
Make a slip knot (here and throughout), hdc in next 5 sts, *tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 3rd of 5 hdc of rnd 6 lying between 2 FPtr’s, sk no sts, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts, fasten off. (75)
Row 9. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 1st hdc of row 8.
Hdc in each of 75 sts, fasten off. (75)
Row 10. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 5 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (84)
Row 11. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in each of 84 sts, fasten off. (84)
Row 12. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
Note: all increases are made directly above tr4tog’s of row 10.
Hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 1st hdc of hdc increase of row 10 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st* 8 times, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 1st hdc of hdc increase of row 10 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts; fasten off. (91)
Row 13. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Start in 1st hdc.
Note: you will get 8 “U” on this row. After this row your piece should measure 20cm (8”) in widest place.
Hdc in next 3 sts, *hdc in next 5 sts, ch4, FPsc around 3 sts on row 11 (find tr4tog on row 10 below. Make FPsc into the st of row 11 that goes into the st before this tr4tog, in this tr4tog and the one after it), ch4, sk 5 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 8 sts; fasten off. (91)
**********************************************************
Row 8. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Make 1st (standing) hdc in 1st hdc of hdc increase of rnd 7 that comes after group of 13 sc.
Hdc in next 5 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 6 sts; fasten off. (75)
Row 9. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc of row 8.
Hdc in next 73 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (75)
Row 10. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc!
2hdc in 2nd st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st* 8 times, hdc in next 5 sts, fasten off. (84)
Row 11. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 82 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (84)
Row 12. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 9 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 8 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, fasten off. (91)
Row 13. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 89 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (91)
Congratulations!!! Part 2 is finished!!
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshel.
Front:
Back:
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
See you next Wednesday!
p.s. I am away this week with very poor Internet connection. If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a (any) product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
I will not overload with lots of information today. I suppose that if you completed Part 1 you have also read all the important notes. But for today’s part there is something more you need to know and keep in mind.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue!
Part 3 can be found HERE.
Important Notes:
- !!! I have noticed that some of you decided to make overlay design for both front and back... Please, DON'T do that!!! The pattern is written in mirror way - for front and back to match in the end. If you make two fronts - they will not match each other in shape!!!
- PLEASE, keep your gauge correct on this and next parts. If you are using ready kits you can run out of certain shades if your bag is turning out to be bigger. If it happens, please, take a smaller hook or try to crochet tighter.
- This part (and all the rest) is crocheted in rows on the right side. And all the rows are started with standing hdc. There are several ways of making them, but I would recommend to begin with a slip knot. It’s important because next rows will either begin in 1st or 2nd hdc, and if you have a slip knot in the beginning, then it is very easy to identify very first stitch. Esther from It’s All In A Nutshell has a video tutorial on this (HERE).
- Note, that some rows are started in 1st stitch, and some of them - in 2nd stitch. Please, be attentive and careful about that.
- If you prefer to weave in yarn tails “as-you-go”, please note that the edges will look neat if before weaving you unweave slip knots in the beginning of each row.
- Except of front post stitches (which should be made to the height of working round – as in Part 1) you will be making clusters today. Or to be more precise – treble crochet 4 together. But instead of usual clusters I used “modified” in the pattern. Please, check THIS tutorial to see how they should be attached correctly.
- If you are using kits – the color way for Deep and Pastel versions are not the same on some rows.
And seems like this is everything I wanted to draw your attention to. Let’s jump to Part 2 now!
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
INSTRUCTIONS: PART 2
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Indonesian
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
tr4tog (modified) treble crochet 4 together cluster
FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
************************************************************
FRONT PART
Row 8. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Make 1st (standing) hdc in 1st hdc of hdc increase of rnd 7 that comes after group of 13 sc. Modified tr4tog’s are used on this row and throughout the pattern. Please, check this tutorial about how to attach them around the post.
Make a slip knot (here and throughout), hdc in next 5 sts, *tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 3rd of 5 hdc of rnd 6 lying between 2 FPtr’s, sk no sts, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts, fasten off. (75)
Row 9. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 1st hdc of row 8.
Hdc in each of 75 sts, fasten off. (75)
Row 10. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 5 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, tr4tog in FPtr below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (84)
Row 11. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 1st hdc.
Hdc in each of 84 sts, fasten off. (84)
Row 12. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
Note: all increases are made directly above tr4tog’s of row 10.
Hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 1st hdc of hdc increase of row 10 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 4 sts, 2hdc in next st* 8 times, hdc in next 3 sts, FPtr around 1st hdc of hdc increase of row 10 below, sk 1 st, hdc in next 5 sts; fasten off. (91)
Row 13. Change to yarn C4 (C6). Start in 1st hdc.
Note: you will get 8 “U” on this row. After this row your piece should measure 20cm (8”) in widest place.
Hdc in next 3 sts, *hdc in next 5 sts, ch4, FPsc around 3 sts on row 11 (find tr4tog on row 10 below. Make FPsc into the st of row 11 that goes into the st before this tr4tog, in this tr4tog and the one after it), ch4, sk 5 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 8 sts; fasten off. (91)
**********************************************************
BACK PART
Row 8. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Make 1st (standing) hdc in 1st hdc of hdc increase of rnd 7 that comes after group of 13 sc.
Hdc in next 5 sts, *hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 6 sts; fasten off. (75)
Row 9. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Start in 2nd hdc of row 8.
Hdc in next 73 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (75)
Row 10. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Start in 2nd hdc!
2hdc in 2nd st, hdc in next 3 sts, 2hdc in next st, *hdc in next 7 sts, 2hdc in next st* 8 times, hdc in next 5 sts, fasten off. (84)
Row 11. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 82 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (84)
Row 12. Change to yarn C1 (C9). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in next 9 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in next 8 sts* 8 times, hdc in next 2 sts, fasten off. (91)
Row 13. Change to yarn C4 (C10). Start in 2nd hdc!
Hdc in 89 sts, 2hdc in last st, fasten off. (91)
Congratulations!!! Part 2 is finished!!
Front:
Back:
You can subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
See you next Wednesday!
p.s. I am away this week with very poor Internet connection. If you have any questions, please, check in Official CCC Social group on Facebook or in my Ravelry group.
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