You might have noticed that brioche crochet has been playing a huge role in my creative world recently. I can’t stop thinking of it, and can’t stop finding ways for bringing to life new stitch patterns and shapes. But did you know that modern airy version of brioche crochet (like you see it in Alma Sweater and Coral Story blanket patterns) has its roots in the overlay technique?
In the early months of my designing work, I already attempted a two-colored overlay mandala. I wanted it to resemble a black and white vector mandala graphics I saw on Pinterest. Surprisingly it was much easier to work in overlay crochet with just two colors, as there was no yarn cutting and no ends weaving.
I am not sure why I have never repeated anything like this again… Instead, I was developing brioche crochet further, and incorporating it into other shapes.
Just before last Christmas my mood was down. Somehow, I lost my crojo, and could not even think of touching the hook. I tried a few times. But even a simple square looked ugly. While my social media feed brings happy and creative vibes, those months of being deeply down do happen occasionally. And then (I know) it’s better to stop and wait. And do something else.
My last December was not creative at all. And I waited. And then tried again. With no idea in mind. Without a sketch. I just took two balls of contrast yarns and started to crochet. I needed to finish a square for another project that was going on at that time.
So, I started to grow a circle, and through of squaring it up later. The circle was growing, and growing… and growing… It was already becoming way too big for a square. And suddenly I felt that “ta-dah!” bell in my head. I am growing a mandala! Which looks like a brioche one.
The world had to stop for a while (no cooking, no cleaning, nothing was happening in my house). And after three days it was here! Beautiful, and big. And very brioche 😊 It took a while to write down the pattern for Graphite Mandala. And testers had to give it much love and efforts as they were testing written instructions without progress pictures. And finally – here it is!
Graphite Mandala pattern is available on RAVELRY and ETSY with 25% discount through Monday, March 15th, 2021.
Graphite Mandala uses overlay crochet and has a brioche look. You only need two colors which are changed on every round without cutting (the yarn is brought up on the wrong side to the next rounds, so you have floats of yarn visible at the mandala’s back).
Lots of progress pictures were added to the pattern. And if you have never tried my patterns before, I hope the picture below will inspire you. This is a set of progress pictures for one round. And you will have the same visual support for almost all rounds in the patterns (except of the easiest ones, where you don’t have any overlaid stitches). I also add arrows to the progress pictures to show where every stitch goes. So really, no chance to be lost!
If you have never tried overlay crochet before, check my Circles of the Sun CAL pattern which is free here on my blog. And which always has detailed video tutorials. This project will give you perfect introduction into overlay crochet. And hopefully you will feel confident enough to try other, more complex projects, like the Graphite Mandala.
If you are curious about the size, it is approx. 74 cm/29in across, measured from tip to tip. I used Scheepjes Stone Washed yarn in two colors (Black Onyx and Moon Stone) and 3.5 mm hook. Obviously, with finer yarn your mandala will become smaller (perfect for a pillow). And with thicker yarn you can make a nice area rug.
Check all shades of Stone Washed yarn at your local Scheepejs shop, or make a purchase via online retailers: Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping), Caro’s Atelier* (NL), Taemombo* (US and Canada).
And of course, I must show you the masterpieces by our super talented testers team:
Ruth Bracey, Loele van den Bergh, Jenna Bowers, Evelien van der Drift, Laura Jackson, Macarena Marskell, Esther Schippers, Elizabeth Kalka and Sarah Fabbri.
***
This summer was endless. And quite tough. Lots of anxiety about Rozeta and how it would be accepted, lots of work behind the scenes to perfect final bits of the pattern and complete progress pictures. Lots of stress to stand out in front of thousands of people and to present my work to the world. This is something I have already used to as a designer with 5 years experience. But still the responsibility is there.
My family has survived a move to a new house last week. We literally packed our life into the boxes and brought it somewhere else in one day. Before that we needed to manage the yard, as there was no fence, and no grass. Just deep and sticky mud everywhere. But now… Now we have the fence, the grass and even our internet is back!
All my yarn is still resting in the boxes everywhere. It’s waiting for unpacking and arranging in a freshly prepared craft room. But I keep delaying this moment, as I simply don’t have any vibes to come back to my stash. It feels like I need time. For everything.
This summer I lost my friend.
It feels like balancing in an unreal world. In between “before” and “tomorrow”.
***
Before summer I had quite a few design ideas. Lots of them. My sketch book is full of drawings. And my swatch box is full of tiny swatches. But now we are moved and everything needs to find its own new place. Including my thoughts and my inspiration.
Two weeks ago I felt like making a mandala again. Mandalas are well known for their healing power. Repeated pattern helps the bothered mind to settle down, and rest for a while. Drawing with yarn helps breathing deeply.
And a new design started to grow in my hands.
I called it Mira Mandala. I wanted so much to release it now, in October. And I addressed my testers with ask for help. They only had one week to test it (sending HUGE thanks their way, you ladies are my crochet heroes!). And today the pattern is ready for release!
In the picture below you can see masterpieces by testers: 1 - Laura Jackson, 2 - mine :), 3 - Sandra Veneman, 4 - Faye Pike, 5 - Sarah Fabbri, 6 - Claire Shipton
So here is Mira Mandala. My first official design and first official crochet pictures from a new home. And my new life.
The pattern is now available for purchase on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. And you can save 25% through this weekend (no codes are needed, as the discount was already applied to price).
I made two mandalas myself. One with Catona yarn* in bright colors. And another one with Softfun* (both yarns by Scheepjes). The size of both mandalas is generous for a pillow, for example. Or they will make nice wall decorations.
Mira is a “classical” overlay crochet mandala, as we know them. Thick and heavily covered with overlaid stitches.
The pattern is now available for purchase on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. And you can save 25% through this weekend (no codes are needed, as the discount was already applied to price).
I hope you’ll like it!
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p.s. I rarely go out to the city center. But today in the morning I had to pick up some documents and decided to have breakfast at Podnebi café, my most favourite place in Brno.
This is the perfect time of the year for me. Just what my tired soul needs… And today I bought a brand new book “The Art of Making Memories” by Meik Wiking, the CEO of the Happiness Research Institute in Copenhagen. Hey, my new life! Here I’m coming!
Translations:
INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
On next rounds continue with C1.
Note: for easy counts, mark ch2-sps in the corners (you’ll have 8 corners in total)
Round 18: With C1. Make ch5 and 1dc in same st/ch2-sp as join instead of first (dc, ch2, dc) – for all rounds up to round 24.
[(dc, ch2, dc) in next st, *ch1, skip 1 st, dc in next st] x2, ch3, skip 2 sts, 2sc, ch3, skip 2 sts, 1dc, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc, ch1, skip 1 st] x 8, join with ss in first sp – 6 dc, 2 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 19: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, pc in next dc, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in each of next 2 sc, ch1, dc in next sp, ch1, pc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 10 dc, 2 pc and 10 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 20: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, ch3, skip sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc and sp, dc in next pc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch2, 1sc in each of next 2dc, ch2, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next pc, ch3, skip sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 8 dc, 4 sc, 4 ch1-sps, 4 ch3-sps and 2 ch2-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 21: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip dc and sp, pc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, 1dc in each of next 2 sc, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, ch1, pc in next dc, ch1, skip sp and dc] x 8, join with ss in first sp – 12 dc, 2 pc, 12 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 22: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, dc in next dc, ch1, dc in next pc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, 1sc in each of next 2 dc, 1sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and dc, sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, dc in next pc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, ch1] x8 making last dc in joining ss from prev round, join with ss in first sp – 8 dc, 6sc, 4 ch1-sps and 6 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 23: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, ch1, skip next dc and sp, dc in next dc, ch1, skip sp, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, ch1, dc in next dc, ch3, skip next sp and sc, 1sc in each of next 2 sc, ch3, skip next sc and sp, dc in next dc, *ch1, dc in next sp* x2, *ch1, dc in next dc* x2, ch1, skip next sp and dc] x8, join with ss in first sp – 12 dc, 2 sc, 2 ch3-sps and 10 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 24: [(dc, ch2, dc) in next ch2-sp, dc in next dc, *dc in next sp, dc in next dc* until ch3-sp, 2dc in next ch3-sp, dc2tog over next 2 sc, 2dc in next ch3-sp, dc in next dc, *dc in next sp, dc in next dc* until next ch2-sp in the corner] x8 making last dc in joining ss of prev round, join with ss in first sp (change to C4, cut C1) – 28 dc and 1dc2tog on each side, ch2-sps in each of 8 corners
Next week we will add another lace part and edging border. And your April Showers Mandala will be finished!
Translations:
Materials:
Scheepjes Stone Washed in 5 colors (78% Cotton, 22% Acrylic, 50g/130m/142yrds)Note: depending on your gauge and crochet style you might need more or less yarn!
4mm (G) crochet hook
Yarn needle to weave in tails, stitch markers or waste yarn, blocking tools
Stone Washed yarn is available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers (affiliate links are marked with *. I might be compensated with a tiny amount if you make a purchase via these links while you will not pay anything extra):
Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (US and Canada), Knotty House* (Canada)
Gauge:
After 5 rounds circle measures 10cm/4” across.Size:
The size of the finished mandala will depend on yarn and hook you use. My mandala is approx. 70cm/27.5” large measured from point to point.Abbreviations (US crochet terms)
BL back loop
ch chain stitch
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
lp(s) loop(s)
RS right side
sc single crochet
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
yo yarn over the hook
prev previous
WS wrong side
Stitch Guide
dc3tog (double crochet 3 together): *yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook.dc4tog (double crochet 4 together): *yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.
FPdc (front post double crochet): yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* twice.
FPtr (front post treble crochet): yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times.
FPdtr (front post double treble): yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble crochet 2 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
FPtr3tog (front post treble crochet 3 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
tr4tog (treble crochet 4 together): *yo twice, insert the hook into the hole at the bottom of stitch just made, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice*4 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.
Special Stitches:
pc (popcorn): *yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* 5 times in same st, drop lp from hook, insert hook from front to back through top of first dc made, place dropped lp on hook and pull through st.Picot – ch3, ss in first ch.
Punctuation:
Square Brackets [ ] and asterisks ** indicate repeats. You will need to repeat the instructions between parentheses the amount of times specified.Parentheses ( ) indicate a group of sts to be worked into the same st/sp. Parentheses also indicate additional notes.
Pattern Notes:
- April Showers Mandala is worked in rounds on RS unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
- Rounds are joined with ss in first ch-sp/st (unless otherwise stated in the pattern)
- Color is changed in joining ss. Don’t cut the yarn at the end of the round, but instead carry it up to next rounds on WS. Don’t pull too much. You’ll have small floats of yarn on the WS. If you want to get rid of floats, please feel free to cut yarn after every round.
INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Color key: C1 – 814 Crystal Quartz (45g – 1 skein), C2 – 801 Moon Stone (15g – 1 skein), C3 – 805 Blue Apatite (30g – 1 skein), C4 – 813 Amazonite (75g – 2 skeins),
C5 – 802 Smokey Quartz (35g – 1 skein)
Round 1: With C1. Make magic ring, ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), 16dc into ring, tighten ring, join with ss in first dc (change to C2) – 16 dc
Round 2: With C2. Work sc in BL. [Ch2, sc in same st, 2sc] x8, join with ss in first ch2-sp (change to C1 by grabbing it up behind work, cut C2) – 24 sc, 8 ch2-sps
Round 3: With C1. First dc is made in same sp as join.
Ch2 (not a st), [1dc in next sp, 3dc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C3, cut C1) – 32 dc
Round 4: Note: for a neater result make first FPtr around indicated st and then make 2 tr into the loop formed at the base of the first leg.
With C3. [Ch2, sc in same st, 3FPtr around central sc of Round 2 between two sps, skip 3 sts on Round 3 behind 3 FPtr just made, sc in next st] x8 making last sc in same sc as first sc, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 5 sts on each of 8 sides, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 5: With C4. Ch2 (not a st), [2dc in ch2-sp, 5dc] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C3) – 56 dc
Round 6: First sc is made in next st after join.
With C3. [Ch2, don’t skip sts, 2sc (BL), FPtr around first of 3 FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st behind FPtr (here and throughout), 1sc (BL), FPtr around third FPtr of same 3 FPtr below, skip 1 st, 2sc (BL)] x8 making last sc in same st as join of prev round, join with ss in first sp (change to C2) – 56 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 7: Note: for a neater result make FPtr in same way as on Round 4.
With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, 2sc (BL), 3FPtr around central FPtr from 3 rounds below, skip 3 sts, 2sc (BL), 1sc in next sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 72 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 8: With C4. [Ch2, skip sp, 9sc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C3) – 72 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 9: With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, ch3, FPtr around FPtr of same color below, skip 3 sts, 3sc (BL), FPtr around FPtr of same color below, ch3, skip 3 sts, sc in next ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 7 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 10: With C4. [Ch3, skip sp, sc (BL) in next st, 1dc in each of 2 sts of same color from 2 rounds below – in front of chains, skip sp behind dc just made, 5sc (BL), 1dc in each of 2 sts of same color from 2 rounds below – in front of chains, skip sp, sc (BL) in last sc before ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C2) – 11 sts on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 11: With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same ch3-sp, ch6, FPtr around first of 3 FPtr of same color below, skip 5 sts, 1sc (BL), FPtr around last FPtr of same group of 3 FPtr below, ch6, skip 5 sts, 1sc in next ch3-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C5, cut C2) – 5 sts and 2 ch6-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 12: With C5. Ch1 (not a st), [5tr in ch2-sp in the corner from 3 rounds below – in front of work, ch6, skip sc and ch6-sp, 1sc (BL) in next FPtr, FPdtr around central FPtr from 5 rounds below, sc in next FPtr, ch6, skip next ch6-sp and sc] x8, join with ss in first tr, ss in next 2 tr (change to C4 in last ss) – 3 sts and 2 ch6-sps on each side, 5 tr in each corner
Round 13: With C4. All dc are made in front of work. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, 1sc in same tr, ch3, skip 2 tr, 1dc in each of 3 sts of same color below, skip sp, 3sc (BL), 1dc in each of next 3 sts of same color below, ch3, skip sp and 2 tr, 1sc in central tr of group of 5 tr] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C3, cut C4) – 11 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 14: First sc is made in same sp as join.
With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next sp (mark as corner), ch3, skip next sc and 2 ch, 1sc in third ch, 3sc (BL), FPdtr around FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st, 1sc (BL), FPdtr around next FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st, 3sc, 1sc in next ch, ch3, skip next 2 ch and sc] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C5) – 11 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner
Round 15: First sc is made in same st as join.
With C5. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next sc (mark as corner), FPtr2tog around 4th and 5th tr of same color below, ch7, 2FPtr around next FPtr of same color below, ch7, FPtr2tog around 1st and 2nd tr of next group of 5 tr of same color] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C3) – 2 FPtr, 2 FPtr2tog and 2 ch7-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner
Round 16: First sc is made in same st as join.
With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [2sc (BL), 1dc in each of next 5 sts of same color from 2 rounds below making last dc in FPtr, sc (BL) in each of next 2 FPtr of prev round, 1dc in each of 5 sts of same color from 2 rounds below beginning in FPtr, 1sc (BL) in next FPtr2tog of prev round] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C5, cut C3) – 120 sts
Round 17: With C5. First skipped st will be same st as join.
Ch1 (not a st), [FPdc3tog (around FPtr2tog, sc and next FPtr2tog of same color below), skip 1 st, 14sc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first FPdc3tog (change to C1, cut all other yarns) – 120 sts
That's all for today! See you next week :)
Every month Simy is designing a digital mandala and is asking everyone to join her and use it as an inspiration for your own crochet pieces.
There are no rules, no patter, no stress. Just a pure joy of creating. The mandala don’t have to look exactly the same as drawing. You might be inspired only by colors, or some elements. Here is Simy's mandala for April.
I took April challenge and crocheted my own mandala using four shades of Stone Washed* yarn by Scheepjes: Moon Stone 801, Amazonite 813, Blue Apatite 805 and Crystal Quartz 814. The mandala was born in just three days, as I switched my brain off and followed my heart.
Why to crochet a mandala, you may ask? I’ve been crocheting them since I started to design. Mandala was the first item I learned overlay crochet with. And small mandala coasters were the first ones I wrote patterns for.
You might have noticed that nowadays book stores are stuffed with colouring books. And many of them feature mandalas. Because they are known for a huge meditative and healing effect. And instead of markers and pencils we, yarnies, can use crochet hooks and yarns to “colour” our own mandalas.
And what crochet mandalas can be used for, you may ask? You can use them in many ways: as doilies, wall and hanging decorations, pillow covers, chair pads – you name it. A while ago I wrote blog post about different ways of using crochet mandalas. Feel free to check it out!
I haven’t decided yet on how I will use my new mandala… It’s quite huge – approx. 60cm across. It might make a nice top of the floor pillow or the pouf.
No pattern yet, but if you interested in it, please let me know and we’ll think of something. We might even run a mini make-a-long? What do you think?
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