Showing posts with label Part 1. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Part 1. Show all posts
Hello and welcome in April Showers Mandala crochet make-a-long. Today we will be making central medallion in overlay crochet. Hope you will enjoy!
Translations:
Note: depending on your gauge and crochet style you might need more or less yarn!
4mm (G) crochet hook
Yarn needle to weave in tails, stitch markers or waste yarn, blocking tools
Stone Washed yarn is available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers (affiliate links are marked with *. I might be compensated with a tiny amount if you make a purchase via these links while you will not pay anything extra):
Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (US and Canada), Knotty House* (Canada)
BL back loop
ch chain stitch
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
lp(s) loop(s)
RS right side
sc single crochet
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
yo yarn over the hook
prev previous
WS wrong side
dc4tog (double crochet 4 together): *yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.
FPdc (front post double crochet): yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* twice.
FPtr (front post treble crochet): yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times.
FPdtr (front post double treble): yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble crochet 2 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
FPtr3tog (front post treble crochet 3 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
tr4tog (treble crochet 4 together): *yo twice, insert the hook into the hole at the bottom of stitch just made, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice*4 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.
Picot – ch3, ss in first ch.
Parentheses ( ) indicate a group of sts to be worked into the same st/sp. Parentheses also indicate additional notes.
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Color key: C1 – 814 Crystal Quartz (45g – 1 skein), C2 – 801 Moon Stone (15g – 1 skein), C3 – 805 Blue Apatite (30g – 1 skein), C4 – 813 Amazonite (75g – 2 skeins),
C5 – 802 Smokey Quartz (35g – 1 skein)
Round 1: With C1. Make magic ring, ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), 16dc into ring, tighten ring, join with ss in first dc (change to C2) – 16 dc
Round 2: With C2. Work sc in BL. [Ch2, sc in same st, 2sc] x8, join with ss in first ch2-sp (change to C1 by grabbing it up behind work, cut C2) – 24 sc, 8 ch2-sps
Round 3: With C1. First dc is made in same sp as join.
Ch2 (not a st), [1dc in next sp, 3dc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C3, cut C1) – 32 dc
Round 4: Note: for a neater result make first FPtr around indicated st and then make 2 tr into the loop formed at the base of the first leg.
With C3. [Ch2, sc in same st, 3FPtr around central sc of Round 2 between two sps, skip 3 sts on Round 3 behind 3 FPtr just made, sc in next st] x8 making last sc in same sc as first sc, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 5 sts on each of 8 sides, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 5: With C4. Ch2 (not a st), [2dc in ch2-sp, 5dc] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C3) – 56 dc
Round 6: First sc is made in next st after join.
With C3. [Ch2, don’t skip sts, 2sc (BL), FPtr around first of 3 FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st behind FPtr (here and throughout), 1sc (BL), FPtr around third FPtr of same 3 FPtr below, skip 1 st, 2sc (BL)] x8 making last sc in same st as join of prev round, join with ss in first sp (change to C2) – 56 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 7: Note: for a neater result make FPtr in same way as on Round 4.
With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, 2sc (BL), 3FPtr around central FPtr from 3 rounds below, skip 3 sts, 2sc (BL), 1sc in next sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 72 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 8: With C4. [Ch2, skip sp, 9sc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C3) – 72 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 9: With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, ch3, FPtr around FPtr of same color below, skip 3 sts, 3sc (BL), FPtr around FPtr of same color below, ch3, skip 3 sts, sc in next ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 7 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 10: With C4. [Ch3, skip sp, sc (BL) in next st, 1dc in each of 2 sts of same color from 2 rounds below – in front of chains, skip sp behind dc just made, 5sc (BL), 1dc in each of 2 sts of same color from 2 rounds below – in front of chains, skip sp, sc (BL) in last sc before ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C2) – 11 sts on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 11: With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same ch3-sp, ch6, FPtr around first of 3 FPtr of same color below, skip 5 sts, 1sc (BL), FPtr around last FPtr of same group of 3 FPtr below, ch6, skip 5 sts, 1sc in next ch3-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C5, cut C2) – 5 sts and 2 ch6-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 12: With C5. Ch1 (not a st), [5tr in ch2-sp in the corner from 3 rounds below – in front of work, ch6, skip sc and ch6-sp, 1sc (BL) in next FPtr, FPdtr around central FPtr from 5 rounds below, sc in next FPtr, ch6, skip next ch6-sp and sc] x8, join with ss in first tr, ss in next 2 tr (change to C4 in last ss) – 3 sts and 2 ch6-sps on each side, 5 tr in each corner
Round 13: With C4. All dc are made in front of work. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, 1sc in same tr, ch3, skip 2 tr, 1dc in each of 3 sts of same color below, skip sp, 3sc (BL), 1dc in each of next 3 sts of same color below, ch3, skip sp and 2 tr, 1sc in central tr of group of 5 tr] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C3, cut C4) – 11 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 14: First sc is made in same sp as join.
With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next sp (mark as corner), ch3, skip next sc and 2 ch, 1sc in third ch, 3sc (BL), FPdtr around FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st, 1sc (BL), FPdtr around next FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st, 3sc, 1sc in next ch, ch3, skip next 2 ch and sc] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C5) – 11 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner
Round 15: First sc is made in same st as join.
With C5. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next sc (mark as corner), FPtr2tog around 4th and 5th tr of same color below, ch7, 2FPtr around next FPtr of same color below, ch7, FPtr2tog around 1st and 2nd tr of next group of 5 tr of same color] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C3) – 2 FPtr, 2 FPtr2tog and 2 ch7-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner
Round 16: First sc is made in same st as join.
With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [2sc (BL), 1dc in each of next 5 sts of same color from 2 rounds below making last dc in FPtr, sc (BL) in each of next 2 FPtr of prev round, 1dc in each of 5 sts of same color from 2 rounds below beginning in FPtr, 1sc (BL) in next FPtr2tog of prev round] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C5, cut C3) – 120 sts
Round 17: With C5. First skipped st will be same st as join.
Ch1 (not a st), [FPdc3tog (around FPtr2tog, sc and next FPtr2tog of same color below), skip 1 st, 14sc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first FPdc3tog (change to C1, cut all other yarns) – 120 sts
Translations:
Nederlands - vertaald door Carmen Jorissen (New Leaf Designs)
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Materials:
Scheepjes Stone Washed in 5 colors (78% Cotton, 22% Acrylic, 50g/130m/142yrds)Note: depending on your gauge and crochet style you might need more or less yarn!
4mm (G) crochet hook
Yarn needle to weave in tails, stitch markers or waste yarn, blocking tools
Stone Washed yarn is available in local Scheepjes shops and via online retailers (affiliate links are marked with *. I might be compensated with a tiny amount if you make a purchase via these links while you will not pay anything extra):
Wool Warehouse*, Black Sheep Wools*, Deramores* (all in UK with international shipping)
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Taemombo* (US and Canada), Knotty House* (Canada)
Gauge:
After 5 rounds circle measures 10cm/4” across.Size:
The size of the finished mandala will depend on yarn and hook you use. My mandala is approx. 70cm/27.5” large measured from point to point.Abbreviations (US crochet terms)
BL back loop
ch chain stitch
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
lp(s) loop(s)
RS right side
sc single crochet
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
yo yarn over the hook
prev previous
WS wrong side
Stitch Guide
dc3tog (double crochet 3 together): *yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook.dc4tog (double crochet 4 together): *yo, insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.
FPdc (front post double crochet): yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* twice.
FPtr (front post treble crochet): yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times.
FPdtr (front post double treble): yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble crochet 2 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
FPtr3tog (front post treble crochet 3 together): *yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice* 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
tr4tog (treble crochet 4 together): *yo twice, insert the hook into the hole at the bottom of stitch just made, yo, draw up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice*4 times, yo, pull through all 5 lps on hook.
Special Stitches:
pc (popcorn): *yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* 5 times in same st, drop lp from hook, insert hook from front to back through top of first dc made, place dropped lp on hook and pull through st.Picot – ch3, ss in first ch.
Punctuation:
Square Brackets [ ] and asterisks ** indicate repeats. You will need to repeat the instructions between parentheses the amount of times specified.Parentheses ( ) indicate a group of sts to be worked into the same st/sp. Parentheses also indicate additional notes.
Pattern Notes:
- April Showers Mandala is worked in rounds on RS unless otherwise stated in the pattern.
- Rounds are joined with ss in first ch-sp/st (unless otherwise stated in the pattern)
- Color is changed in joining ss. Don’t cut the yarn at the end of the round, but instead carry it up to next rounds on WS. Don’t pull too much. You’ll have small floats of yarn on the WS. If you want to get rid of floats, please feel free to cut yarn after every round.
INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright! An original LillaBjörnCrochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2019. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. No translations and video tutorials are allowed without permission. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always note me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you!
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Color key: C1 – 814 Crystal Quartz (45g – 1 skein), C2 – 801 Moon Stone (15g – 1 skein), C3 – 805 Blue Apatite (30g – 1 skein), C4 – 813 Amazonite (75g – 2 skeins),
C5 – 802 Smokey Quartz (35g – 1 skein)
Round 1: With C1. Make magic ring, ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), 16dc into ring, tighten ring, join with ss in first dc (change to C2) – 16 dc
Round 2: With C2. Work sc in BL. [Ch2, sc in same st, 2sc] x8, join with ss in first ch2-sp (change to C1 by grabbing it up behind work, cut C2) – 24 sc, 8 ch2-sps
Round 3: With C1. First dc is made in same sp as join.
Ch2 (not a st), [1dc in next sp, 3dc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C3, cut C1) – 32 dc
Round 4: Note: for a neater result make first FPtr around indicated st and then make 2 tr into the loop formed at the base of the first leg.
With C3. [Ch2, sc in same st, 3FPtr around central sc of Round 2 between two sps, skip 3 sts on Round 3 behind 3 FPtr just made, sc in next st] x8 making last sc in same sc as first sc, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 5 sts on each of 8 sides, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 5: With C4. Ch2 (not a st), [2dc in ch2-sp, 5dc] x8, join with ss in first dc (change to C3) – 56 dc
Round 6: First sc is made in next st after join.
With C3. [Ch2, don’t skip sts, 2sc (BL), FPtr around first of 3 FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st behind FPtr (here and throughout), 1sc (BL), FPtr around third FPtr of same 3 FPtr below, skip 1 st, 2sc (BL)] x8 making last sc in same st as join of prev round, join with ss in first sp (change to C2) – 56 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 7: Note: for a neater result make FPtr in same way as on Round 4.
With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, 2sc (BL), 3FPtr around central FPtr from 3 rounds below, skip 3 sts, 2sc (BL), 1sc in next sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 72 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 8: With C4. [Ch2, skip sp, 9sc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C3) – 72 sts, 8 ch2-sps
Round 9: With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same sp, ch3, FPtr around FPtr of same color below, skip 3 sts, 3sc (BL), FPtr around FPtr of same color below, ch3, skip 3 sts, sc in next ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C4) – 7 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 10: With C4. [Ch3, skip sp, sc (BL) in next st, 1dc in each of 2 sts of same color from 2 rounds below – in front of chains, skip sp behind dc just made, 5sc (BL), 1dc in each of 2 sts of same color from 2 rounds below – in front of chains, skip sp, sc (BL) in last sc before ch2-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C2) – 11 sts on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 11: With C2. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, sc in same ch3-sp, ch6, FPtr around first of 3 FPtr of same color below, skip 5 sts, 1sc (BL), FPtr around last FPtr of same group of 3 FPtr below, ch6, skip 5 sts, 1sc in next ch3-sp] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C5, cut C2) – 5 sts and 2 ch6-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 12: With C5. Ch1 (not a st), [5tr in ch2-sp in the corner from 3 rounds below – in front of work, ch6, skip sc and ch6-sp, 1sc (BL) in next FPtr, FPdtr around central FPtr from 5 rounds below, sc in next FPtr, ch6, skip next ch6-sp and sc] x8, join with ss in first tr, ss in next 2 tr (change to C4 in last ss) – 3 sts and 2 ch6-sps on each side, 5 tr in each corner
Round 13: With C4. All dc are made in front of work. Ch1 (not a st), [ch2, 1sc in same tr, ch3, skip 2 tr, 1dc in each of 3 sts of same color below, skip sp, 3sc (BL), 1dc in each of next 3 sts of same color below, ch3, skip sp and 2 tr, 1sc in central tr of group of 5 tr] x8, join with ss in first sp (change to C3, cut C4) – 11 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in each corner
Round 14: First sc is made in same sp as join.
With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next sp (mark as corner), ch3, skip next sc and 2 ch, 1sc in third ch, 3sc (BL), FPdtr around FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st, 1sc (BL), FPdtr around next FPtr of same color below, skip 1 st, 3sc, 1sc in next ch, ch3, skip next 2 ch and sc] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C5) – 11 sts and 2 ch3-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner
Round 15: First sc is made in same st as join.
With C5. Ch1 (not a st), [1sc in next sc (mark as corner), FPtr2tog around 4th and 5th tr of same color below, ch7, 2FPtr around next FPtr of same color below, ch7, FPtr2tog around 1st and 2nd tr of next group of 5 tr of same color] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C3) – 2 FPtr, 2 FPtr2tog and 2 ch7-sps on each side, 1 sc in each corner
Round 16: First sc is made in same st as join.
With C3. Ch1 (not a st), [2sc (BL), 1dc in each of next 5 sts of same color from 2 rounds below making last dc in FPtr, sc (BL) in each of next 2 FPtr of prev round, 1dc in each of 5 sts of same color from 2 rounds below beginning in FPtr, 1sc (BL) in next FPtr2tog of prev round] x8, join with ss in first sc (change to C5, cut C3) – 120 sts
Round 17: With C5. First skipped st will be same st as join.
Ch1 (not a st), [FPdc3tog (around FPtr2tog, sc and next FPtr2tog of same color below), skip 1 st, 14sc (BL)] x8, join with ss in first FPdc3tog (change to C1, cut all other yarns) – 120 sts
That's all for today! See you next week :)
Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete mandala pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Welcome to the Spirits of Life Wrap CAL. We begin today with Part 1 (yay! Finally!). Before you actually start crocheting, pretty please, check General information for the CAL HERE and make a gauge swatch. Then, please, carefully read information below.
I hope that you are well prepared and that you practiced all three techniques introduced in the Important Notes HERE. Today’s part is a kind of relaxed. You will not be making any intricate stitches. It is more about getting used to the gauge and to different types of yarn. Part 1 consists of colorful stripes made with both Spirit and Catona yarns with a small zig-zag pattern in overlay crochet.
BEFORE you actually begin to crochet, please, make these two important things.
1. Organize your colors. Each color in the pattern is marked with the letter (A,B,C…). Please, make an organizer and match each letter with the exact yarn. Because corresponding shades of Spirit and Catona can look very similar in the pictures, I would highly recommend you to refer ONLY to written instructions, and not the pictures.
Below you will see the picture representing color change for each colorway (Lake, Volcano and Orchid). But this is just a small help for you, so that you don’t use a totally different color. But again (!) while changing colors, please, refer to written pattern!
Here is the color key (you will also find it in the written pattern):
And here is how my own “organizer” looks. Not fancy at all, but very helpful!
2. Please, remove labels from the skeins and weigh each and every one.
If you are using the kit it is very important that you use exactly the same amount of each color as given in the pattern. In the files below (choose your language and download it) you will find the chart with yarn amounts in grams. For all 9 parts!! Please, weigh your yarn before and after each part is finished and carefully takes notes about your amounts (you can put them into printed instructions into the same chart as mine). This will give you a very clear vision about how much yarn you used. And if you are on track or not.
I used 3.25mm (D) hook but you may need to go one-two sizes up or down to obtain correct gauge.
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute (online or off-line), sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. You can check Copyright page for more information.
Here is written pattern for Part 1:
**IMPORTANT!!**: all files were reuploaded on November 16th, 2017 - with corrected yardages for ORCHID.
Part 1 - Afrikaans
Part 1 - Czech
Part 1 - Danish
Part 1 - Dutch
Part 1 - English (US)
Part 1 - English (UK)
Part 1 - Finnish
Part 1 - French
Part 1 - German
Part 1 - Hebrew
Part 1 - Norwegian
Part 1 - Polish
Part 1 - Portuguese
Part 1 - Spanish
Part 1 - Swedish
Part 1 - Russian
And here is how your fabric should look after Part 1. (Don't forget to weave in tails and block your piece when it's finished.) Measurements: 56cm/22in (width), 23cm/9in (height) – blocked!
I have created a video tutorial to help you understand written instructions better. Because the pattern is quite straightforward, the video doesn’t contain step by step instructions for every row. The video is meant as an additional help.
As you may notice, the video doesn’t have sound… and this is not because of technical problem. It was done on purpose. There were many reasons why I decided not to add any voice explanations. One of them is the CAL is translated to many languages, and far not everyone is speaking English. Instead I tried to use a “universal crochet language” and my hands to explain the pattern. And hopefully you will find it helpful and useful!
This and all next video’s will be posted on my YouTube channel HERE.
Happy crocheting! Can’t wait to see your finished samples!! You can post them in Official CCC Social group on Facebook (official host of Spirits of Life CAL) and also in my Ravelry group HERE. Every week there will be a separate thread created for each Part of the CAL.
If you don’t have a kit but would like to purchase one, they are still available (at the time of posting) at Wool Warehouse HERE* (UK, international shipping) and Loveknitting HERE* (US).
UPDATE: Part 2 is HERE.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
I hope that you are well prepared and that you practiced all three techniques introduced in the Important Notes HERE. Today’s part is a kind of relaxed. You will not be making any intricate stitches. It is more about getting used to the gauge and to different types of yarn. Part 1 consists of colorful stripes made with both Spirit and Catona yarns with a small zig-zag pattern in overlay crochet.
BEFORE you actually begin to crochet, please, make these two important things.
1. Organize your colors. Each color in the pattern is marked with the letter (A,B,C…). Please, make an organizer and match each letter with the exact yarn. Because corresponding shades of Spirit and Catona can look very similar in the pictures, I would highly recommend you to refer ONLY to written instructions, and not the pictures.
Below you will see the picture representing color change for each colorway (Lake, Volcano and Orchid). But this is just a small help for you, so that you don’t use a totally different color. But again (!) while changing colors, please, refer to written pattern!
Here is the color key (you will also find it in the written pattern):
Spirit of the Lake
Yarn A Spirit 301
Yarn B Catona 242
Yarn C Spirit 309
Yarn D Catona 164
Yarn E Catona 205
Yarn F Spirit 306
Yarn G Catona 397
Yarn H Spirit 307
Yarn A Spirit 301
Yarn B Catona 242
Yarn C Spirit 309
Yarn D Catona 164
Yarn E Catona 205
Yarn F Spirit 306
Yarn G Catona 397
Yarn H Spirit 307
Spirit of the Volcano
Yarn A Spirit 305
Yarn B Catona 254
Yarn C Spirit 311
Yarn D Catona 258
Yarn E Catona 179
Yarn F Spirit 308
Yarn G Catona 253
Yarn H Spirit 304
Yarn A Spirit 305
Yarn B Catona 254
Yarn C Spirit 311
Yarn D Catona 258
Yarn E Catona 179
Yarn F Spirit 308
Yarn G Catona 253
Yarn H Spirit 304
Spirit of the Orchid
Yarn A Spirit 303
Yarn B Catona 505
Yarn C Spirit 302
Yarn D Catona 263
Yarn E Catona 395
Yarn F Spirit 312
Yarn G Catona 240
Yarn H Spirit 307
Yarn A Spirit 303
Yarn B Catona 505
Yarn C Spirit 302
Yarn D Catona 263
Yarn E Catona 395
Yarn F Spirit 312
Yarn G Catona 240
Yarn H Spirit 307
2. Please, remove labels from the skeins and weigh each and every one.
If you are using the kit it is very important that you use exactly the same amount of each color as given in the pattern. In the files below (choose your language and download it) you will find the chart with yarn amounts in grams. For all 9 parts!! Please, weigh your yarn before and after each part is finished and carefully takes notes about your amounts (you can put them into printed instructions into the same chart as mine). This will give you a very clear vision about how much yarn you used. And if you are on track or not.
I used 3.25mm (D) hook but you may need to go one-two sizes up or down to obtain correct gauge.
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute (online or off-line), sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. You can check Copyright page for more information.
Here is written pattern for Part 1:
**IMPORTANT!!**: all files were reuploaded on November 16th, 2017 - with corrected yardages for ORCHID.
Part 1 - Afrikaans
Part 1 - Czech
Part 1 - Danish
Part 1 - Dutch
Part 1 - English (US)
Part 1 - English (UK)
Part 1 - Finnish
Part 1 - French
Part 1 - German
Part 1 - Hebrew
Part 1 - Norwegian
Part 1 - Polish
Part 1 - Portuguese
Part 1 - Spanish
Part 1 - Swedish
Part 1 - Russian
And here is how your fabric should look after Part 1. (Don't forget to weave in tails and block your piece when it's finished.) Measurements: 56cm/22in (width), 23cm/9in (height) – blocked!
I have created a video tutorial to help you understand written instructions better. Because the pattern is quite straightforward, the video doesn’t contain step by step instructions for every row. The video is meant as an additional help.
As you may notice, the video doesn’t have sound… and this is not because of technical problem. It was done on purpose. There were many reasons why I decided not to add any voice explanations. One of them is the CAL is translated to many languages, and far not everyone is speaking English. Instead I tried to use a “universal crochet language” and my hands to explain the pattern. And hopefully you will find it helpful and useful!
This and all next video’s will be posted on my YouTube channel HERE.
Happy crocheting! Can’t wait to see your finished samples!! You can post them in Official CCC Social group on Facebook (official host of Spirits of Life CAL) and also in my Ravelry group HERE. Every week there will be a separate thread created for each Part of the CAL.
If you don’t have a kit but would like to purchase one, they are still available (at the time of posting) at Wool Warehouse HERE* (UK, international shipping) and Loveknitting HERE* (US).
UPDATE: Part 2 is HERE.
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Today is the day! I am so happy, excited, nervous and thrilled to share Part 1 of my new Peacock Tail Bag with you. If it’s the first time you hear about it – please check my blog post with all the details and general information HERE. I will add links to every part as they are published.
Before you start crocheting, I would like to share a few things with you. Please, check Important Notes where I gathered all the abbreviations, stitch guide and explanation about all the techniques which will be used during the CAL. As well as CAL in general, these notes are translated into 12 languages by a wonderful team of enthusiastic translators (you will find their names in each part). I send many thanks and hugs to all of them and Massiel Lago and Laurene Leeseberg Bluder in particular!
Important Notes are available as pdf-files for download. PLEASE, please, (please!!!) read them carefully before you start crocheting and make sure you understand everything. If you have any doubts, please feel free to ask your questions in Official CCC Social group on Facebook HERE (many thanks to Susan Cutler Cutrer) where my CAL is officially hosted, or in my Ravelry group HERE (you will find a separate thread for asking questions, commenting and sharing the pictures of your finished projects).
Part 2 can be found HERE.
Important Notes are available here:
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Indonesian
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
GAUGE
Hopefully after reading these notes you will find the answers to all possible questions. But I would like draw your attention to the importance of keeping correct gauge.
- If you are using kits or your own colors of Linen Soft* by Scheepjes yarns the gauge is especially important for you as your yardages are limited and you should be very precise with the gauge not to run out of some shades. In case it happens – don’t worry. You can always change colorway for bag’s back (as it’s not important) and to add the shades you have left. But to prevent it, please, make sure the size of your crocheted pieces is exactly as stated in the pattern.
- I used 2.75mm (C) Clover Soft Touch* hook but you can go one or several sizes up or down. Just, please, find the most comfortable tension.
- It’s also extremely important to have front and back of your bag the same size after each part. There are lots of front post stitches used for the front (which may pull a bit – please, keep an eye on that) while the back is relaxed. So please, check the size of front and back after every part (or ideally – after every round/row).
COLOUR WAY
And the last thing I wanted to tell you – the colorways for Deep and Pastel versions are not the same. So please, be careful and don’t mix them. The colors for a pastel version are given in bracket on each round/row. If you chose your own colors – feel free to experiment with them and choose the best colorway for you.
Part 1 is very short and the most easy. It’s meant to introduce you to the techniques but also gives you the chance to practice front post stitches…
Ok… Seems like this is everything! Are you ready? So… let’s begin!
COPYRIGHT
IMPORTANT: Please, be aware that all my patterns (free or paid) are protected by copyright. You are not allowed to copy, reproduce, redistribute, sell and edit them in part or as a whole. You are welcome to sell your finished items made by my patterns, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as the designer of these patterns. You are not allowed to share pdf-files created from my posts with anyone. If you would like more people to join my CAL – please, share a link to my blog with them. If you own a yarn store and would like to sell kits for this CAL - please, contact me for details. You can check Copyright page for more information.
INSTRUCTIONS: PART 1
English - US terms
English - UK terms
Afrikaans
Danish
Dutch
Finnish
French
German
Greek
Hebrew
Korean
Persian
Spanish
Swedish
VIDEO for this part was kindly recordered by wonderful Esther from It's All In A Nutshell. Please, see it in end of this post.
Color Key DEEP VERSION:
C1 – emerald (608 – 1 skein), C2 – green (606 – 1 skein), C3 – purple (603 – 1 skein), C4 – dark blue (611 – 2 skeins), C5 – light blue (614 – 1 skein)
Color Key PASTEL VERSION:
C6 – grey (619 – 2 skeins), C7 – light blue (629 – 1 skein), C8 – purple (612 – 1 skein), C9 – lavender (624 – 1 skein), C10 – off white (613 – 1 skein).
Important!! If you are familiar with overlay crochet, you may probably know that stitches of the background are usually made in back loops only. But for this pattern please work all rounds and rows on back AND front – through both loops!!!
Abbreviations (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your language.
rnd round
st(s) stitch(es)
sl st slip stitch
ch chain
sp(s) space(s)
sc single crochet
hdc half double crochet
dc double crochet
FPtr front post treble crochet
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
NJ needle join
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
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FRONT PART
Rnd 1. Start with yarn C1 (C6). Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as 1st dc) and 11dc in magic ring; NJ in 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (12)
Rnd 2. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in any st of rnd 1. First dc increase will be ch2+dc in same st where yarn was attached.
*2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (24)
Rnd 3. Change to yarn C3 (С8). Attach yarn in 1st st of any dc increase of rnd 2.
*dc in next st (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (36)
Rnd 4. Change to yarn C1 (С6). Attach yarn in 1st dc of any dc increase of rnd 3.
*dc in next 2 sts (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (48)
Rnd 5. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in 2nd dc after any dc increase of rnd 4.
*dc in next 3 sts (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (60)
Rnd 6. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 2nd dc of any dc increase of rnd 5.
Note: please, feel free to replace FPtr’s with FPdtr’s if they pull too much. Front post stitches should be made to the height of working round, and they should be not too tight and not too loose.
*hdc in next 4 sts (1st hdc of the rnd will be ch2), 2hdc in next st* 3 times, *hdc in next 5 sts, FPtr around 2nd dc of underlying increase of rnd 4, sk no sts on rnd 5* 9 times; NJ in 1st hdc of the rnd after ch2. (72)
Rnd 7. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Attach yarn in 2nd hdc of hdc increase of rnd 6 after last FPtr.
Sc in next 13 sts (1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* 9 times, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts; NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (82)
Your piece should measure 12 cm (4 ¾”) after rnd 7.
**********************************************************
BACK PART
Please, try to keep the same gauge as for front. Check measurements after rnd 7.
Rnd 1. Start with yarn C1 (C6). Make magic ring, ch2 (counts as 1st dc) and 11dc in magic ring; NJ in 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (12)
Rnd 2. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in any st of rnd 1. First dc increase will be ch2+dc in same st where yarn was attached.
*2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (24)
Rnd 3. Change to yarn C3 (С8). Attach yarn in 1st st of any dc increase of rnd 2.
*dc in next st (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times, NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (36)
Rnd 4. Change to yarn C1 (С6). Attach yarn in 1st dc of any dc increase of rnd 3.
*dc in next 2 sts (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (48)
Rnd 5. Change to yarn C2 (C7). Attach yarn in 2nd dc after any dc increase of rnd 4.
*dc in next 3 sts (1st dc of the rnd will be ch2), 2dc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st dc of the rnd after ch2. (60)
Rnd 6. Change to yarn C3 (C8). Attach yarn in 2nd dc of any dc increase of rnd 5.
*hdc in next 4 sts (1st hdc of the rnd will be ch2), 2hdc in next st* 12 times; NJ in the 1st hdc of the rnd after ch2. (72)
Rnd 7. Change to yarn C1 (C6). Attach yarn in 2nd hdc of any hdc increase of rnd 6.
Sc in 13 next sts (1st sc of the rnd will be a ch), *hdc in next 2 sts, 2hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts* 9 times, hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts; NJ in the 1st sc of the rnd after ch1. (82)
Congratilations! Part 1 is now finifshed! :)
And here are video's made by Esther from It's All In A Nutshell.
Front:
Back:
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