After the reveal I was asked to host a mini-CAL or Make-a-Long for this sweater. I thought it might be a nice idea, and especially for this project a new Lilla Björn Crochet and Friends group on Facebook was launched. Please, feel free to join and share your progress pictures and all other projects made with my patterns. The group is closed but I will gladly approve you. But please be patient. Because of time differences it may take some time.
I have also created a separate thread in my Ravelry group for Lilla Björn Sweater Make-A-Long. If you like Ravelry better than other places – don’t hesitate and join in! Welcome!
If you want to share your beautiful pictures on social media, please, use hashtag #LillaBjornSweater.
Level: Advanced Beginner
Size: S/M (L/XL, 2X)
The pattern is written for three sizes but it can be easily adjusted for your exact size (see approx. yardages for other sizes in Materials).
This sweater was designed with an oversized fit (approx. +20-25cm (8-10”) positive ease to your actual bust)
Bust: 114-138-152cm (45-54-60”)
To fit actual Bust: 81/97-102/117-122/127cm (32/38-40/46-48/50”)
Length: 57-67-73cm (22 ½ - 26 – 28 ½ “)
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
- Fingering yarn. I used Our Tribe* yarn by Scheepjes. You will need: S/M - 3 skeins, L/XL – 4 skeins, 2X – 5 skeins (please, note that yarn amounts for sizes L/XL and 2X were NOT TESTED, so they are approximate!!)
Our Tribe yarn is available for purchase in local Scheepjes shops, via Knotty House (Canada)* and Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping).
- Amour Clover 3.5mm (E) crochet hook* or size needed to obtain the same gauge.
- Scissors, tapestry needle to weave in ends.
GaugeAfter Round 5 octagon measures 10cm/4” across.
For a more accurate gauge: 27dc x 11 rows = 10 x 10cm/4 x 4”
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.
yo yarn over
sc single crochet (insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook)
dc double crochet (yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* twice)
RS right side
WS wrong side
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
[…] [crochet following directions] as many times as indicated
- Lilla Björn sweater consists of two octagons which are then enlarged on sides for a desired width (= front and back);
- Front and back are sewn together by hand on shoulders and sides (leaving spaces for armholes);
- Two triangles are added at the bottom to make the bottom line straight;
- Bottom hem is added in the very end for the desired length of the sweater.
Please, have a look at the schema below. It should give you an idea about the sweater’s construction:
This week we are making two central octagons (A) for front and back.
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
Octagon (make two – front and back)
TIP: if you want to use two colors, weigh your yarn for octagon center and divide this amount by two. For example, for S/M size you should use ½ skein for the center of one octagon (front) and another ½ skein for the center of another octagon (back). The rest will be made with another shade.
Rnd 1. Make magic ring, ch5 (counts as first dc and ch2-sp), [1dc into ring, ch2] repeat 7 times in total, tighten magic ring, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (8dc, 8ch2-sps)
TIP: for an easier count mark each ch2-sp in the corner with stitch marker and move them to every new round as you progress.
Rnd 2. Ch5 (counts as dc and ch2-sp), [1dc in same sp, 1dc in next dc, 1dc in next sp, ch2] repeat 7 times in total, 1dc in same sp, 1dc in joining ss, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (24dc, 8ch2-sps)
Rnd 3. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp] repeat 7 times in total, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (24dc, 16 ch1-sps, 8ch2-sps)
Rnd 4. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, *[1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] till 1 st before next ch2-sp in the corner left, 1dc in next st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp* repeat 7 times in total, [1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] till joining ss, 1dc in joining ss, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (7dc on each of eight sides, 8ch2-sps in the corners)
Rnd 5. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1dc left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 7 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till joining ss, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (5dc and 4 ch1-sps on each of eight sides, 8ch2-sps in the corners)
Repeat rounds 4 and 5 till you get desired length of the sweater (without bottom hem). Finish octagon with rnd 4. Your stitch count should increase by 4 on each side of every “full” round with dc (compared to previous full round). Don't fasten off!!
Check video tutorial HERE:
Tip: to prevent “turning effect” of the octagon shape you can made some of the lace rounds on WS.
For my sweater I made every third “holey” round on the WS.
Example: turn and continue on WS. Ch4 (counts as dc and ch1-sp), skip 1 st, 1dc, [*ch1, skip 1, 1dc in next st* till 1 dc left before ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 7 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1 st left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next ch2-sp, ch2, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd.
For the next “full” rnd turn and repeat rnd 4 as usual – on RS.
Octagon can start curling at some point. But this effect should be minimized by blocking.
I made 28 rounds in total for S/M size, And you can make 32 rounds for L/XL and 34 rounds for 2X sizes (your octagon should measure 50-58-62cm (20-23-24 1/2") across from side to side (blocked). Please, adjust amounts of rounds according to your prefered size.
The octagon's size will give you a desired length (without the bottom hem).
Next week we will enlarge octagons and make triangles for sweater’s bottom.
UPDATE: Part 2 is available HERE.
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