Showing posts with label Lilla Bjorn sweater. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lilla Bjorn sweater. Show all posts
Our Lilla Bjorn Sweater make-a-long is almost over. I am loving all your beautiful creations. Please, don’t stop sharing your pictures on social media. They make me happy :) Today we will be putting the sweater together, we will also add the hem at the bottom. And (yay!) your sweater will be finished!
Resources:
Before you start putting sweater together I would recommend blocking all pieces carefully to desired measurements. Blocking will give you an idea of current length of your sweater. And it will be easier to estimate the width of the hem at the bottom.
Place front and back side by side facing you with RS.
Using yarn tails sew triangles at the bottom to the decreased sides (as shown in the pictures).
My photo camera died few days ago and I needed to give it to service. I couldn't make progress pictures for the rest of the pattern, but you can watch the video!
Sew shoulder seams. Sew sides (regular side of the enlarged octagon) from the top of triangles up, leaving a desired space for the armhole (approx. 15cm/6" in height, or 30cm/12" in circumference).
To strengthen neckline and armholes, work with one round of slip stitches around them:
Round 1. With RS facing you attach yarn with ss in magic ring of any triangle, ch2, 1dc in same st as join, dc evenly along the bottom of your sweater. Be sure you make equal amount of dc’s along the bottom of both triangles. When you come to the beginning of the round, join with ss in first dc after ch2.
Round 2. Ch4 (counts as dc and ch1-sp), skip base st and next one, 1dc in next st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] repeat around, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the beginning of the round.
Round 3. Ch2 (doesn’t count as dc), 2dc in next sp, [1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] repeat around. Join with ss in first dc after ch2.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 till you reach the desired length of your sweater, then repeat Rnd 2 once again.
Here are approx. directions for you: size S/M - 8 rounds (or 7cm/3"), size L/XL - 10 rounds (or 9cm/3.5"), size 2X - 12 rounds (or 11cm/4.5")
[ch5, skip sp+ next dc+ next sp, ss in next dc, ch3, ss in same dc] repeat around. Improvise with end with this rnd depending on your stitch count. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends, block your sweater to measurements.
Congratulations!!! Your very own Lilla Bjorn Sweater is now finished!
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Resources:
- General information, size and gauge information, material list and Instructions for Part 1 are HERE. And HERE are instructions for Part 2.
- I used Our Tribe yarn by Scheepjes for my sweater. It is available in Scheepjes local shops, via Caro's Atelier* (NL), Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both UK with international shipping).
- Video tutorials are available on my YouTube channel HERE
- Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
- Join Lilla Bjorn Crochet and Friends group on Facebook or my official Ravelry group to enter Make-A-Long
- Share your wips and finished project on social media with hashtag #LillaBjornSweater
Before you start putting sweater together I would recommend blocking all pieces carefully to desired measurements. Blocking will give you an idea of current length of your sweater. And it will be easier to estimate the width of the hem at the bottom.
Putting sweater together
Place front and back side by side facing you with RS.
Using yarn tails sew triangles at the bottom to the decreased sides (as shown in the pictures).
My photo camera died few days ago and I needed to give it to service. I couldn't make progress pictures for the rest of the pattern, but you can watch the video!
Sew shoulder seams. Sew sides (regular side of the enlarged octagon) from the top of triangles up, leaving a desired space for the armhole (approx. 15cm/6" in height, or 30cm/12" in circumference).
To strengthen neckline and armholes, work with one round of slip stitches around them:
- Attach yarn with ss (on RS) in a shoulder seam, work with ss around the neckline, join with ss in first ss of the round, fasten off. Repeat the same for armholes.
Hem
Round 1. With RS facing you attach yarn with ss in magic ring of any triangle, ch2, 1dc in same st as join, dc evenly along the bottom of your sweater. Be sure you make equal amount of dc’s along the bottom of both triangles. When you come to the beginning of the round, join with ss in first dc after ch2.
Round 2. Ch4 (counts as dc and ch1-sp), skip base st and next one, 1dc in next st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] repeat around, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the beginning of the round.
Round 3. Ch2 (doesn’t count as dc), 2dc in next sp, [1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] repeat around. Join with ss in first dc after ch2.
Repeat rounds 2 and 3 till you reach the desired length of your sweater, then repeat Rnd 2 once again.
Here are approx. directions for you: size S/M - 8 rounds (or 7cm/3"), size L/XL - 10 rounds (or 9cm/3.5"), size 2X - 12 rounds (or 11cm/4.5")
Edge
[ch5, skip sp+ next dc+ next sp, ss in next dc, ch3, ss in same dc] repeat around. Improvise with end with this rnd depending on your stitch count. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends, block your sweater to measurements.
Congratulations!!! Your very own Lilla Bjorn Sweater is now finished!
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Hey! Are you joining me for a Lilla Björn Sweater Make-A-Long? Last week Part 1 was released and we made two central octagons: for front and back. And today we will enlarge them for a desired width of the sweater!
Resources:
- General information, size and gauge information, material list and Instructions for Part 1 are HERE.
- Video tutorials are available on my YouTube channel HERE
- Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
- Join Lilla Bjorn Crochet and Friends group on Facebook or my official Ravelry group to enter Make-A-Long
- Share your wips and finished project on social media with hashtag #LillaBjornSweater
INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
To reach designed width we should enlarge octagon on the sides. Let’s have a look at the schema again:
B = enlarged sides for a desired width. We are making them today.
First you should decide how much you would like to enlarge the width of your sweater, and divide this number by 2. This will give you the height of enlargement on each side.
For example, you want to make your octagon 10cm wider. It means you should add 5cm/2" on each side (=the height of enlargement)
You will work in back and forth (so you will turn after every row) along three sides of the octagon. “Holey” rows are made on WS and “full” rows on RS.
Video tutorial is available here:
Enlargement 1:
Note: for the needs of photo and video tutorials I used contrasting yarn. But you can continue with your main color, if you wish.Row 1. Turn and work on WS.
Ch3, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st (=first dc2tog), [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1 st left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 2 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 3 sts left before next ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, 1dc2tog (skip 1 st and make first leg in next st, skip 1 st and make second leg in next ch2-sp in the corner), turn.
You will get two decreased sides and one regular side (between two decreased).
Row 2 (RS). Ch3, 1dc2tog (make first leg in next sp, make second leg in next st), [*1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st* till next ch2-sp in the corner, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner, 1dc in next st] repeat 2 times in total, 1dc in next sp, *1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp* till 1dc+1ch-sp+1dc2rog left, 1dc3tog (make first leg in next dc, make second leg in next sp, make third leg in last dc2tog), turn.
Row 3. Ch3, skip base st and next one, 1dc in next st (=first dc2tog), [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1 st left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 2 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 4 sts left, ch1, 1dc2tog (skip 1 st and make first leg in next st, skip 1 st and make second leg in last st), turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 till desired height is reached. Finish with row 2.
You can, for example, make: 4 rows (or 3.5cm/1.5") for S/M, 6 rows (or 5.5cm/2") for L/XL, 8 rows (or 7cm/3") for 2X (or other number of rows depending on your yarn choice and size preferences). Fasten off leaving 100cm tail.
Enlargement 2:
Place crocheted piece facing you with WS so that the Enlargement 1 is on the left. Attach yarn with ss in right bottom corner (ch2-sp).
Complete enlargement 2 in the same way as Enlargement 1. Fasten off leaving 100cm tail. Block Front and Back to measurements.
Triangle (make two)
Two triangles are needed to fill the “gaps” at the sweater’s bottom to make the bottom line straight.
The size of triangles will depend on the size of your back and front. Stitch count on the triangle’s side should be the same as on decreased side of the octagon. One or two stitches difference doesn’t not matter. You will easily fix it while sewing sweater together.
Triangles are worked in rows in back and forth.
Row 1 WS. Make magic ring, ch4 (counts as dc and ch1-sp), 1dc in magic ring, ch2, 1dc in magic ring, ch1, 1dc in magic ring. Tighten ring, turn.
Row 2 RS. Ch3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 2dc in first st, 1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2-sp in the corner, 1dc in next st, 4dc in last sp, turn. (7dc on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 3. Ch4, 1dc in first st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] till ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] till 1 st left, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last sp, turn. (6dc and 5 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 till you get needed stitch count on the sides. I made 14 rows for S/M size. Unfortunately I was not able to calculate exact number of rows for L-XL and 2X sizes. Please, continue to crochet triangles till you get needed stitch count on the sides. Fasten off leaving 100cm tail.
Next week we will put sweater together and add a hem at the bottom.
UPDATE: Instructions for Part 3 are available HERE.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
As promised here is the pattern for Lilla Björn Sweater. The instructions were getting too long and I decided to split them into three parts. Each new part will be released weekly together with video-tutorial. If you would like to see more pictures of the finished sweater, you can check them HERE.
After the reveal I was asked to host a mini-CAL or Make-a-Long for this sweater. I thought it might be a nice idea, and especially for this project a new Lilla Björn Crochet and Friends group on Facebook was launched. Please, feel free to join and share your progress pictures and all other projects made with my patterns. The group is closed but I will gladly approve you. But please be patient. Because of time differences it may take some time.
I have also created a separate thread in my Ravelry group for Lilla Björn Sweater Make-A-Long. If you like Ravelry better than other places – don’t hesitate and join in! Welcome!
If you want to share your beautiful pictures on social media, please, use hashtag #LillaBjornSweater.
Level: Advanced Beginner
Size: S/M (L/XL, 2X)
The pattern is written for three sizes but it can be easily adjusted for your exact size (see approx. yardages for other sizes in Materials).
This sweater was designed with an oversized fit (approx. +20-25cm (8-10”) positive ease to your actual bust)
Bust: 114-138-152cm (45-54-60”)
To fit actual Bust: 81/97-102/117-122/127cm (32/38-40/46-48/50”)
Length: 57-67-73cm (22 ½ - 26 – 28 ½ “)
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
Our Tribe yarn is available for purchase in local Scheepjes shops, via Knotty House (Canada)* and Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping).
For a more accurate gauge: 27dc x 11 rows = 10 x 10cm/4 x 4”
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
ch chain
yo yarn over
sc single crochet (insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook)
dc double crochet (yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* twice)
RS right side
WS wrong side
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
[…] [crochet following directions] as many times as indicated
Please, have a look at the schema below. It should give you an idea about the sweater’s construction:
This week we are making two central octagons (A) for front and back.
*******************************************************
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
TIP: if you want to use two colors, weigh your yarn for octagon center and divide this amount by two. For example, for S/M size you should use ½ skein for the center of one octagon (front) and another ½ skein for the center of another octagon (back). The rest will be made with another shade.
Rnd 1. Make magic ring, ch5 (counts as first dc and ch2-sp), [1dc into ring, ch2] repeat 7 times in total, tighten magic ring, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (8dc, 8ch2-sps)
TIP: for an easier count mark each ch2-sp in the corner with stitch marker and move them to every new round as you progress.
Rnd 2. Ch5 (counts as dc and ch2-sp), [1dc in same sp, 1dc in next dc, 1dc in next sp, ch2] repeat 7 times in total, 1dc in same sp, 1dc in joining ss, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (24dc, 8ch2-sps)
Rnd 3. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp] repeat 7 times in total, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (24dc, 16 ch1-sps, 8ch2-sps)
Rnd 4. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, *[1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] till 1 st before next ch2-sp in the corner left, 1dc in next st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp* repeat 7 times in total, [1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] till joining ss, 1dc in joining ss, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (7dc on each of eight sides, 8ch2-sps in the corners)
Rnd 5. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1dc left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 7 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till joining ss, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (5dc and 4 ch1-sps on each of eight sides, 8ch2-sps in the corners)
Repeat rounds 4 and 5 till you get desired length of the sweater (without bottom hem). Finish octagon with rnd 4. Your stitch count should increase by 4 on each side of every “full” round with dc (compared to previous full round). Don't fasten off!!
Check video tutorial HERE:
Tip: to prevent “turning effect” of the octagon shape you can made some of the lace rounds on WS.
For my sweater I made every third “holey” round on the WS.
Example: turn and continue on WS. Ch4 (counts as dc and ch1-sp), skip 1 st, 1dc, [*ch1, skip 1, 1dc in next st* till 1 dc left before ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 7 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1 st left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next ch2-sp, ch2, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd.
For the next “full” rnd turn and repeat rnd 4 as usual – on RS.
Octagon can start curling at some point. But this effect should be minimized by blocking.
I made 28 rounds in total for S/M size, And you can make 32 rounds for L/XL and 34 rounds for 2X sizes (your octagon should measure 50-58-62cm (20-23-24 1/2") across from side to side (blocked). Please, adjust amounts of rounds according to your prefered size.
The octagon's size will give you a desired length (without the bottom hem).
Next week we will enlarge octagons and make triangles for sweater’s bottom.
UPDATE: Part 2 is available HERE.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
After the reveal I was asked to host a mini-CAL or Make-a-Long for this sweater. I thought it might be a nice idea, and especially for this project a new Lilla Björn Crochet and Friends group on Facebook was launched. Please, feel free to join and share your progress pictures and all other projects made with my patterns. The group is closed but I will gladly approve you. But please be patient. Because of time differences it may take some time.
I have also created a separate thread in my Ravelry group for Lilla Björn Sweater Make-A-Long. If you like Ravelry better than other places – don’t hesitate and join in! Welcome!
If you want to share your beautiful pictures on social media, please, use hashtag #LillaBjornSweater.
Level: Advanced Beginner
Size: S/M (L/XL, 2X)
The pattern is written for three sizes but it can be easily adjusted for your exact size (see approx. yardages for other sizes in Materials).
Measurements:
This sweater was designed with an oversized fit (approx. +20-25cm (8-10”) positive ease to your actual bust)
Bust: 114-138-152cm (45-54-60”)
To fit actual Bust: 81/97-102/117-122/127cm (32/38-40/46-48/50”)
Length: 57-67-73cm (22 ½ - 26 – 28 ½ “)
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
Materials
- Fingering yarn. I used Our Tribe* yarn by Scheepjes. You will need: S/M - 3 skeins, L/XL – 4 skeins, 2X – 5 skeins (please, note that yarn amounts for sizes L/XL and 2X were NOT TESTED, so they are approximate!!)
Our Tribe yarn is available for purchase in local Scheepjes shops, via Knotty House (Canada)* and Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping).
- Amour Clover 3.5mm (E) crochet hook* or size needed to obtain the same gauge.
- Scissors, tapestry needle to weave in ends.
Gauge
After Round 5 octagon measures 10cm/4” across.For a more accurate gauge: 27dc x 11 rows = 10 x 10cm/4 x 4”
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.
st(s) stitch(es)
sp(s) space(s)
ch chain
yo yarn over
sc single crochet (insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a loop, yo and pull through both loops on hook)
dc double crochet (yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* twice)
RS right side
WS wrong side
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
[…] [crochet following directions] as many times as indicated
Pattern Notes
- Lilla Björn sweater consists of two octagons which are then enlarged on sides for a desired width (= front and back);
- Front and back are sewn together by hand on shoulders and sides (leaving spaces for armholes);
- Two triangles are added at the bottom to make the bottom line straight;
- Bottom hem is added in the very end for the desired length of the sweater.
Please, have a look at the schema below. It should give you an idea about the sweater’s construction:
This week we are making two central octagons (A) for front and back.
*******************************************************
INSTRUCTIONS
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
Octagon (make two – front and back)
TIP: if you want to use two colors, weigh your yarn for octagon center and divide this amount by two. For example, for S/M size you should use ½ skein for the center of one octagon (front) and another ½ skein for the center of another octagon (back). The rest will be made with another shade.
Rnd 1. Make magic ring, ch5 (counts as first dc and ch2-sp), [1dc into ring, ch2] repeat 7 times in total, tighten magic ring, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (8dc, 8ch2-sps)
TIP: for an easier count mark each ch2-sp in the corner with stitch marker and move them to every new round as you progress.
Rnd 2. Ch5 (counts as dc and ch2-sp), [1dc in same sp, 1dc in next dc, 1dc in next sp, ch2] repeat 7 times in total, 1dc in same sp, 1dc in joining ss, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (24dc, 8ch2-sps)
Rnd 3. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp] repeat 7 times in total, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (24dc, 16 ch1-sps, 8ch2-sps)
Rnd 4. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, *[1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] till 1 st before next ch2-sp in the corner left, 1dc in next st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp* repeat 7 times in total, [1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] till joining ss, 1dc in joining ss, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (7dc on each of eight sides, 8ch2-sps in the corners)
Rnd 5. Ch5, 1dc in same sp, [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1dc left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 7 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till joining ss, ch1, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd. (5dc and 4 ch1-sps on each of eight sides, 8ch2-sps in the corners)
Repeat rounds 4 and 5 till you get desired length of the sweater (without bottom hem). Finish octagon with rnd 4. Your stitch count should increase by 4 on each side of every “full” round with dc (compared to previous full round). Don't fasten off!!
Check video tutorial HERE:
Tip: to prevent “turning effect” of the octagon shape you can made some of the lace rounds on WS.
For my sweater I made every third “holey” round on the WS.
Example: turn and continue on WS. Ch4 (counts as dc and ch1-sp), skip 1 st, 1dc, [*ch1, skip 1, 1dc in next st* till 1 dc left before ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 7 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1 st left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next ch2-sp, ch2, join with ss in third ch in the beg of the rnd.
For the next “full” rnd turn and repeat rnd 4 as usual – on RS.
Octagon can start curling at some point. But this effect should be minimized by blocking.
I made 28 rounds in total for S/M size, And you can make 32 rounds for L/XL and 34 rounds for 2X sizes (your octagon should measure 50-58-62cm (20-23-24 1/2") across from side to side (blocked). Please, adjust amounts of rounds according to your prefered size.
The octagon's size will give you a desired length (without the bottom hem).
Next week we will enlarge octagons and make triangles for sweater’s bottom.
UPDATE: Part 2 is available HERE.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
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