Hey! Are you joining me for a Lilla Björn Sweater Make-A-Long? Last week Part 1 was released and we made two central octagons: for front and back. And today we will enlarge them for a desired width of the sweater!
- General information, size and gauge information, material list and Instructions for Part 1 are HERE.
- Video tutorials are available on my YouTube channel HERE
- Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
- Join Lilla Bjorn Crochet and Friends group on Facebook or my official Ravelry group to enter Make-A-Long
- Share your wips and finished project on social media with hashtag #LillaBjornSweater
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
To reach designed width we should enlarge octagon on the sides. Let’s have a look at the schema again:
B = enlarged sides for a desired width. We are making them today.
First you should decide how much you would like to enlarge the width of your sweater, and divide this number by 2. This will give you the height of enlargement on each side.
For example, you want to make your octagon 10cm wider. It means you should add 5cm/2" on each side (=the height of enlargement)
You will work in back and forth (so you will turn after every row) along three sides of the octagon. “Holey” rows are made on WS and “full” rows on RS.
Video tutorial is available here:
Enlargement 1:Note: for the needs of photo and video tutorials I used contrasting yarn. But you can continue with your main color, if you wish.
Row 1. Turn and work on WS.
Ch3, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st (=first dc2tog), [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1 st left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 2 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 3 sts left before next ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, 1dc2tog (skip 1 st and make first leg in next st, skip 1 st and make second leg in next ch2-sp in the corner), turn.
You will get two decreased sides and one regular side (between two decreased).
Row 2 (RS). Ch3, 1dc2tog (make first leg in next sp, make second leg in next st), [*1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st* till next ch2-sp in the corner, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner, 1dc in next st] repeat 2 times in total, 1dc in next sp, *1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp* till 1dc+1ch-sp+1dc2rog left, 1dc3tog (make first leg in next dc, make second leg in next sp, make third leg in last dc2tog), turn.
Row 3. Ch3, skip base st and next one, 1dc in next st (=first dc2tog), [*ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 1 st left before the corner, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next ch2-sp in the corner] repeat 2 times in total, *ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st* till 4 sts left, ch1, 1dc2tog (skip 1 st and make first leg in next st, skip 1 st and make second leg in last st), turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 till desired height is reached. Finish with row 2.
You can, for example, make: 4 rows (or 3.5cm/1.5") for S/M, 6 rows (or 5.5cm/2") for L/XL, 8 rows (or 7cm/3") for 2X (or other number of rows depending on your yarn choice and size preferences). Fasten off leaving 100cm tail.
Place crocheted piece facing you with WS so that the Enlargement 1 is on the left. Attach yarn with ss in right bottom corner (ch2-sp).
Complete enlargement 2 in the same way as Enlargement 1. Fasten off leaving 100cm tail. Block Front and Back to measurements.
Triangle (make two)
Two triangles are needed to fill the “gaps” at the sweater’s bottom to make the bottom line straight.
The size of triangles will depend on the size of your back and front. Stitch count on the triangle’s side should be the same as on decreased side of the octagon. One or two stitches difference doesn’t not matter. You will easily fix it while sewing sweater together.
Triangles are worked in rows in back and forth.
Row 1 WS. Make magic ring, ch4 (counts as dc and ch1-sp), 1dc in magic ring, ch2, 1dc in magic ring, ch1, 1dc in magic ring. Tighten ring, turn.
Row 2 RS. Ch3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 2dc in first st, 1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in ch2-sp in the corner, 1dc in next st, 4dc in last sp, turn. (7dc on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Row 3. Ch4, 1dc in first st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] till ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in ch2-sp in the corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, [ch1, skip 1 st, 1dc in next st] till 1 st left, ch1, skip 1 st, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last sp, turn. (6dc and 5 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 till you get needed stitch count on the sides. I made 14 rows for S/M size. Unfortunately I was not able to calculate exact number of rows for L-XL and 2X sizes. Please, continue to crochet triangles till you get needed stitch count on the sides. Fasten off leaving 100cm tail.
Next week we will put sweater together and add a hem at the bottom.
UPDATE: Instructions for Part 3 are available HERE.
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