Showing posts with label Celtic tiles blanket. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Celtic tiles blanket. Show all posts
Have you tried Celtic Tiles overlay crochet pattern yet? It is FREE and you can find it HERE (there is also a video available HERE - made by Esther of It's All In A Nutshell). This pattern was written with blanket in mind. But as far as it’s about a crochet square, it can be used in many other ways. And one of them is to make a pillow.
I have been a little bit addicted to making Celtic squares recently, so I finished more pieces than I actually needed. Four of them were made with Stone Washed yarn* by Scheepjes in Amazonite shade (813). I also had a new pillow cover from IKEA in nice cream shade. So I thought it might be nice to join squares and to stitch finished crocheted decoration onto ready pillow cover. And here is the result!
As you can see large crocheted square is a little bit smaller than the pillowcase. So I centered my Celtic decoration leaving a narrow fabric border. Quick and easy. And unique gift (for yourself or your friends) is ready in almost no time.
If you are curious about how much yarn was used – each square weights approx. 40g (valid for Stone Washed and 4mm Clover Soft touch hook*).
I am sometimes asked what is the best way to stitch crocheted pieces to fabric. I don’t really know what is the best way, but I always do that by hand with running sewing stitch. I use a needle and yarn of the same color as the border of my crocheted decoration.
Crocheted blankets are wonderful, but sometimes it takes forever to finish them. But on the other hand making 1 small square now and then can be a very nice break from a large project. And if your blanket is never finished you can still use ready squares. To make a pillow, for example. :)
Have a nice weekend,
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
* thank you for using my affiliate links. It costs you nothing and helps to support my blog.
I have been a little bit addicted to making Celtic squares recently, so I finished more pieces than I actually needed. Four of them were made with Stone Washed yarn* by Scheepjes in Amazonite shade (813). I also had a new pillow cover from IKEA in nice cream shade. So I thought it might be nice to join squares and to stitch finished crocheted decoration onto ready pillow cover. And here is the result!
As you can see large crocheted square is a little bit smaller than the pillowcase. So I centered my Celtic decoration leaving a narrow fabric border. Quick and easy. And unique gift (for yourself or your friends) is ready in almost no time.
If you are curious about how much yarn was used – each square weights approx. 40g (valid for Stone Washed and 4mm Clover Soft touch hook*).
I am sometimes asked what is the best way to stitch crocheted pieces to fabric. I don’t really know what is the best way, but I always do that by hand with running sewing stitch. I use a needle and yarn of the same color as the border of my crocheted decoration.
Crocheted blankets are wonderful, but sometimes it takes forever to finish them. But on the other hand making 1 small square now and then can be a very nice break from a large project. And if your blanket is never finished you can still use ready squares. To make a pillow, for example. :)
Have a nice weekend,
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
* thank you for using my affiliate links. It costs you nothing and helps to support my blog.
Celtic Tiles Blanket consists of 20 squares made in overlay crochet technique with simple border. It’s not as well draping as other cabled crochet blankets, but it gives a very nice feeling of coziness and warmness. Perfect for winter times. Read more about this blanket in THIS blog post (with more reveal pictures).
* DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I may get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
st(s) stitch(es)
ch chain
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
BL back loop(s)
WS wrong side
RS right side
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
FPtr (front post treble crochet) - yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble 2 together) - * yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
FPdtr (front post double treble crochet) – yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.
FPdtr2tog (front post double treble crochet 2 together) - *yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp,[yo, pull through 2 lps] 3 times*, twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
1. Reading the pattern. This pattern contains written instructions and a lot of pictures showing to which sts the overlaid stitches should be added (these sts are marked by arrows). I would strongly recommend using both kinds of instructions. It will be easier to read and understand the written instructions after looking at the pictures. This pattern is written for right-handed people.
2. Turning ch1/ch2. This square is worked in rows, back and forth. Ch1/ch2 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as a st. So 1st st is always made in 1st st of previous row.
3. Gauge. Overlaid stitches are used to crochet this square, that’s why it is very important to have their gauge under control: they should be neither too loose nor too tight, because this will lead to a deformation of the shape. The right tensioned overlay stitches should be made to the height of the working round. And width of your square should stay the same after each row.
4. Skipping sts. Overlaid stitches “hide” the stitches of background and this is the reason, why sc of the working round should be skipped. Please note that the number of overlaid stitches is always the same as the number of skipped sts. And stitch count after each row is the same.
It might be tricky to keep track on skipped sts. Stitch markers can help you. After completing sc before each group of next FPsts, insert stitch marker in next sts. Then make indicated FPsts. And now 1st marked sts behind them will be counted at 1st skipped st.
Because you always skip sts behind FPsts, you will have gaps behind them. They are adding drape to the square and prevent it from being stiff. If you would like to get rid of these gaps, you can “close” them working on wrong side. To do so, insert the hook in back loops of skipped stitches and under both loops of corresponding FPsts of previous row (see pics below).
5. Inserting hook. If you make a front post stitch, the hook is always inserted from front to back and then again to front around the post (vertical part) of the indicated st. In other words, the hook will be inserted behind the post.
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*Purchase an ad-free and ready-to-print PDF of this pattern (including all Important Notes, material list, stitch guide, complete instructions and photo tutorials) HERE on Ravelry. There is also a print friendly copy of the pattern available for download - with no pictures*
VIDEO. Esther of It's All In A Nutshell has made a very detailed and professional video for this pattern (HERE). She will guide you through every single stitch.
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2017. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
******************************************************
To complete one square you will need approx. 86-87g of Stone Washed XL. Please, make sure you use not more than this amount, because otherwise yarn in the kit will not be enough to complete the blanket.
Row 1. (WS) Ch38. 1dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1dc in each ch to the end. Turn. (36 sts)
Row 2. (RS) Ch1 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout), 1sc in each st to the end. Turn (36 sts)
Row 3. Ch2 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout), 1dc in each st to the end. Turn.
Row 4. Note: all front post stitches are made around sts from 2 rows below – here and throughout the pattern.
Ch1, 3sc, 1FPtr around 6th sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sts, skip 3 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 3sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 2 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 14sc, 1FPtr around 9th sc (from the end of the row) from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 2 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 3sc, 1FPtr around same sc, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 3 sts behind FPtr just made, 3sc; turn.
Row 5. As row 3.
Row 6. Ch1, 5sc, 1FPtr around 1st FPtr below, 1FPtr2tog around next 2 FPtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPtr around each of 2FPtr below, skip 2sc on row 4, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 4 sts on row 5, 2sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 4 sc on row 4, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 4 sts on row 5, 2sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPtr below, skip 4 sts on row 5, 3sc, 1FPtr2tog around next 2FPtr, 1FPtr around next FPtr, skip 2 sts on row 5, 5sc; turn.
Row 7. As row 3.
Row 8. Note: on this and all next rows by “skipped sts” are meant sts of previous row, hidden behind front post stitches just made.
Ch1, 7sc, 1FPdtr around 1st FPtr below, 1FPdtr around next FPtr2tog, *skip next 2 FPtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPtr below* 3 times, 1FPdtr around next FPtr2tog, 1FPdtr around next FPtr, skip 4sts, 7sc; turn.
Row 9. As row 3.
Row 10. Ch1, 6sc, skip 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made (see pics below), skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* 3 times, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, skip 2 sts, 6sc; turn.
Row 11. As row 3.
Row 12. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn.
Row 13. As row 3.
Row 14. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4 sts, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn.
Row 15. As row 3.
Row 16. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn.
Row 17. As row 3.
Row 18. Ch1, 6sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 2sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4 sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 6sc; turn.
Row 19. As row 3.
Row 20. Ch1, 7sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPtr, skip 4sts, 7sc; turn.
Row 21. As row 3.
Row 22. Ch1, 5sc, skip 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* 3 times, 1sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip 2 sts, 5sc; turn.
Row 23. As row 3.
Row 24. Note: for a neater result instead of 2 FPdtr around same st, make 1FPdtr around indicated st and then 1tr inserting the hook in a hole at the bottom of FPdtr just made (see pic’s below).
Ch1, 3sc, 1FPdtr around 1st FPdtr below, 2FPdtr around next FPdtr below, skip 3sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 2FPdtr around next FPdtr, 1FPdtr around next FPdtr, skip 3 sts, 3sc; turn.
Row 25. As row 3.
Row 26. Ch1, 5sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr2tog around next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around next FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 18sc, 1FPdtr around 5th (from the end of row) FPdtr below, 1FPdtr2tog around next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 5sc; turn.
Row 27. As row 3.
(RS) Ch1, 3sc in 1st st, 34sc, 3sc in last st, turn a quarter, 34 sc along the side evenly, turn a quarter, 3sc in 1st ch of foundation ch, 1sc in each of next 34ch, 3sc in last ch, turn a quarter, 34 sc along the side evenly. Join with ss in 1st sc after ch1. Fasten off, weave in tail. Block square to measurements.
Join squares together using the ‘flat zip method’ into a grid of 5 x 4 squares:
Place 2 squares to be joined next to one another, RS facing up. Insert your hook through the back loop of central st in the corner of the square on the right from front to back. Insert the hook through back loop of the central st in the corner of the other square from front to back, yo and draw through all 3 loops on the hook. Continue joining the back loops of each st with a ss in this way. The back loops of the stitches on each square will be the ones that are nearest the centre when you lay the squares side-by-side.
After last join don’t fasten off, turn, make ch1 and 1sc in the joining seam. Then continue to crochet around the entire blanket with sc on the WS always making 1sc in each joining seam and 3sc in the central sc in each corner. In the end of this rnd join with ss in the 1st sc and fasten off.
On RS make surface ss around the edge of the blanket inserting the hook in the sts of last round of small squares. Please, check THIS tutorial about how to make surface ss:
Congratulations! Your Celtic Tiles blanket is now completed!!
If you feel following written instructions is too difficult, please, watch Esther's video (It's All In a Nutshell):
About Celtic Tiles Blanket in brief:
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What you’ll need
- Yarn in one color. I used yarn “Stone Washed XL" by Scheepjes (50g/1.76 oz.,130 m/142 yds.) in shade Crystal Quartz (854) 87g for one square; 38 skeins for entire blanket
- Amour Crochet hook 5 mm (H)* or size needed to get an acceptable gauge.
- Stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle to weave in yarn tails.
Stone Washed XL yarn is available for purchase in local Scheepjes stores and via online retailers:
Caro's Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Knotty House* (CA)
* DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I may get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
Gauge
15 sts x 10 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4in x 4in) with one row of dc, one row of sc patternFinished size
Each square is approx. 30cm/12” large when blocked. The entire blanket is approx. 122cm x 152cm (48in x 60in)Abbreviations and Stitch Guide (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.
st(s) stitch(es)
ch chain
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
BL back loop(s)
WS wrong side
RS right side
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
FPtr (front post treble crochet) - yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble 2 together) - * yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
FPdtr (front post double treble crochet) – yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.
FPdtr2tog (front post double treble crochet 2 together) - *yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp,[yo, pull through 2 lps] 3 times*, twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
Important notes
1. Reading the pattern. This pattern contains written instructions and a lot of pictures showing to which sts the overlaid stitches should be added (these sts are marked by arrows). I would strongly recommend using both kinds of instructions. It will be easier to read and understand the written instructions after looking at the pictures. This pattern is written for right-handed people.
2. Turning ch1/ch2. This square is worked in rows, back and forth. Ch1/ch2 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as a st. So 1st st is always made in 1st st of previous row.
3. Gauge. Overlaid stitches are used to crochet this square, that’s why it is very important to have their gauge under control: they should be neither too loose nor too tight, because this will lead to a deformation of the shape. The right tensioned overlay stitches should be made to the height of the working round. And width of your square should stay the same after each row.
4. Skipping sts. Overlaid stitches “hide” the stitches of background and this is the reason, why sc of the working round should be skipped. Please note that the number of overlaid stitches is always the same as the number of skipped sts. And stitch count after each row is the same.
It might be tricky to keep track on skipped sts. Stitch markers can help you. After completing sc before each group of next FPsts, insert stitch marker in next sts. Then make indicated FPsts. And now 1st marked sts behind them will be counted at 1st skipped st.
Because you always skip sts behind FPsts, you will have gaps behind them. They are adding drape to the square and prevent it from being stiff. If you would like to get rid of these gaps, you can “close” them working on wrong side. To do so, insert the hook in back loops of skipped stitches and under both loops of corresponding FPsts of previous row (see pics below).
5. Inserting hook. If you make a front post stitch, the hook is always inserted from front to back and then again to front around the post (vertical part) of the indicated st. In other words, the hook will be inserted behind the post.
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Instructions – Square (make 20)
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue*Purchase an ad-free and ready-to-print PDF of this pattern (including all Important Notes, material list, stitch guide, complete instructions and photo tutorials) HERE on Ravelry. There is also a print friendly copy of the pattern available for download - with no pictures*
VIDEO. Esther of It's All In A Nutshell has made a very detailed and professional video for this pattern (HERE). She will guide you through every single stitch.
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2017. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
******************************************************
To complete one square you will need approx. 86-87g of Stone Washed XL. Please, make sure you use not more than this amount, because otherwise yarn in the kit will not be enough to complete the blanket.
Row 1. (WS) Ch38. 1dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1dc in each ch to the end. Turn. (36 sts)
Row 2. (RS) Ch1 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout), 1sc in each st to the end. Turn (36 sts)
Row 3. Ch2 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout), 1dc in each st to the end. Turn.
Row 4. Note: all front post stitches are made around sts from 2 rows below – here and throughout the pattern.
Ch1, 3sc, 1FPtr around 6th sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sts, skip 3 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 3sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 2 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 14sc, 1FPtr around 9th sc (from the end of the row) from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 2 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 3sc, 1FPtr around same sc, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 3 sts behind FPtr just made, 3sc; turn.
Row 5. As row 3.
Row 6. Ch1, 5sc, 1FPtr around 1st FPtr below, 1FPtr2tog around next 2 FPtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPtr around each of 2FPtr below, skip 2sc on row 4, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 4 sts on row 5, 2sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 4 sc on row 4, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 4 sts on row 5, 2sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPtr below, skip 4 sts on row 5, 3sc, 1FPtr2tog around next 2FPtr, 1FPtr around next FPtr, skip 2 sts on row 5, 5sc; turn.
Row 8. Note: on this and all next rows by “skipped sts” are meant sts of previous row, hidden behind front post stitches just made.
Ch1, 7sc, 1FPdtr around 1st FPtr below, 1FPdtr around next FPtr2tog, *skip next 2 FPtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPtr below* 3 times, 1FPdtr around next FPtr2tog, 1FPdtr around next FPtr, skip 4sts, 7sc; turn.
Row 9. As row 3.
Row 10. Ch1, 6sc, skip 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made (see pics below), skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* 3 times, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, skip 2 sts, 6sc; turn.
Row 11. As row 3.
Row 12. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn.
Row 13. As row 3.
Row 14. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4 sts, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn.
Row 15. As row 3.
Row 16. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn.
Row 17. As row 3.
Row 18. Ch1, 6sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 2sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4 sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 6sc; turn.
Row 19. As row 3.
Row 20. Ch1, 7sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPtr, skip 4sts, 7sc; turn.
Row 21. As row 3.
Row 22. Ch1, 5sc, skip 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* 3 times, 1sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip 2 sts, 5sc; turn.
Row 23. As row 3.
Row 24. Note: for a neater result instead of 2 FPdtr around same st, make 1FPdtr around indicated st and then 1tr inserting the hook in a hole at the bottom of FPdtr just made (see pic’s below).
Ch1, 3sc, 1FPdtr around 1st FPdtr below, 2FPdtr around next FPdtr below, skip 3sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 2FPdtr around next FPdtr, 1FPdtr around next FPdtr, skip 3 sts, 3sc; turn.
Row 25. As row 3.
Row 26. Ch1, 5sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr2tog around next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around next FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 18sc, 1FPdtr around 5th (from the end of row) FPdtr below, 1FPdtr2tog around next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 5sc; turn.
Row 27. As row 3.
Edge
(RS) Ch1, 3sc in 1st st, 34sc, 3sc in last st, turn a quarter, 34 sc along the side evenly, turn a quarter, 3sc in 1st ch of foundation ch, 1sc in each of next 34ch, 3sc in last ch, turn a quarter, 34 sc along the side evenly. Join with ss in 1st sc after ch1. Fasten off, weave in tail. Block square to measurements.
Joining and Border
Join squares together using the ‘flat zip method’ into a grid of 5 x 4 squares:
Place 2 squares to be joined next to one another, RS facing up. Insert your hook through the back loop of central st in the corner of the square on the right from front to back. Insert the hook through back loop of the central st in the corner of the other square from front to back, yo and draw through all 3 loops on the hook. Continue joining the back loops of each st with a ss in this way. The back loops of the stitches on each square will be the ones that are nearest the centre when you lay the squares side-by-side.
After last join don’t fasten off, turn, make ch1 and 1sc in the joining seam. Then continue to crochet around the entire blanket with sc on the WS always making 1sc in each joining seam and 3sc in the central sc in each corner. In the end of this rnd join with ss in the 1st sc and fasten off.
On RS make surface ss around the edge of the blanket inserting the hook in the sts of last round of small squares. Please, check THIS tutorial about how to make surface ss:
Congratulations! Your Celtic Tiles blanket is now completed!!
If you feel following written instructions is too difficult, please, watch Esther's video (It's All In a Nutshell):
About Celtic Tiles Blanket in brief:
- Level: Intermediate (front post stitches)
- Materials: Aran yarn in one color (Stone Washed XL by Scheepjes - yarn packs (38 skeins) are available at Wool Warehouse HERE*, Deramores HERE* and in your local Scheepjes shops), 5mm(H) crochet hook, stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle to weave in ends.
- Size: each square is approx. 30cm/12in large. Entire blanket is 122cm x 152cm (48in x 60in).
- Language: English
- Instructions: US crochet terms and abbreviations (including complete stitch guide), written instructions, step-by-step pictures.
- Ready-to-print ads free pattern in PDF format is available for purchase HERE on Ravelry.
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Today is the Ta-dah moment. I finished my Celtic Tiles Blanket (and yes, it already has the name), and can finally show it to you. It’s my second experience with Celtic design and I am so much in love with cables. So for sure new patterns will come in the future.
So here is my finished blanket. I used Stone Washed XL* yarn by Scheepjes and in my opinion the yarn and the pattern work together really well. The blanket consists of 20 squares (every square is approx 30cm/12” large) and the entire size of the blanket is approx. 122cm x 152cm (48in x 60in). Of course you can add more squares and make it larger.
The color you see in the pictures is Crystal Quartz – a nice light grey shade. I made 4 additional samples to show you how the squares can look in different colors: Moon Stone, Smokey Quartz, Amazonite and Boulder Opal. And I can’t really say which is my favorite. I love the classical look of cream (Moon Stone) and I would be happy to make a cream blanket for myself. But unfortunately with a very active dog and my almost 6-years-old son it would be impossible to keep it clean for a long time. So I thought grey might be the best choice for me – not too light and not too dark. But don’t you agree that cables look fantastic in darker shade as well?
I didn’t use classical Aran crochet (cabling) for my Celtic Tiles blanket. Instead I decided to go for an overlay crochet – my beloved crochet technique. What does it mean? It means that there is a plain background made with sc and dc stitches (US terms) and cables are added onto this background on the right side of the blanket. So wrong side is plain and right side is structured, and there are two layers instead of one.
Overlay crochet made this blanket a little bit more sturdy and heavy than it would be with just classical cables. But this is exact effect I wanted to achieve. I wanted to create a blanket which you can really feel. It’s not very well draped, but it’s very warm and cozy – just perfect for winter times.
This design may look a little bit tricky, but I have a happy news for you! Esther of It’s All In A Nutshell is making video for this pattern. It means you will be guided though each and every row and stitch. I can assure that this video is very detailed and if you have never tried overlay crochet before – maybe this is the right time to give it a try.
Approx. 87g of Stone Washed XL is used for each square (just under two skeins) and entire blanket weights 1820g.
FREE pattern will be published next week here on my blog. And if you would like to use the same yarn as me, there are kits available for purchase via Wool Warehouse (HERE*) and Deramores (HERE*) - both UK retailers ship orders internationally. And of course you can find Stone Washed XL yarn in your local Scheepjes shops. I will keep you updated... :)
UPDATE: Celtic tiles Blanket pattern is available for free HERE. You can also purchase a ready-to-print PDF of this pattern HERE on Ravelry.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
* thank you for using my affiliate links. It costs you nothing and helps to support my blog.
So here is my finished blanket. I used Stone Washed XL* yarn by Scheepjes and in my opinion the yarn and the pattern work together really well. The blanket consists of 20 squares (every square is approx 30cm/12” large) and the entire size of the blanket is approx. 122cm x 152cm (48in x 60in). Of course you can add more squares and make it larger.
The color you see in the pictures is Crystal Quartz – a nice light grey shade. I made 4 additional samples to show you how the squares can look in different colors: Moon Stone, Smokey Quartz, Amazonite and Boulder Opal. And I can’t really say which is my favorite. I love the classical look of cream (Moon Stone) and I would be happy to make a cream blanket for myself. But unfortunately with a very active dog and my almost 6-years-old son it would be impossible to keep it clean for a long time. So I thought grey might be the best choice for me – not too light and not too dark. But don’t you agree that cables look fantastic in darker shade as well?
I didn’t use classical Aran crochet (cabling) for my Celtic Tiles blanket. Instead I decided to go for an overlay crochet – my beloved crochet technique. What does it mean? It means that there is a plain background made with sc and dc stitches (US terms) and cables are added onto this background on the right side of the blanket. So wrong side is plain and right side is structured, and there are two layers instead of one.
Overlay crochet made this blanket a little bit more sturdy and heavy than it would be with just classical cables. But this is exact effect I wanted to achieve. I wanted to create a blanket which you can really feel. It’s not very well draped, but it’s very warm and cozy – just perfect for winter times.
This design may look a little bit tricky, but I have a happy news for you! Esther of It’s All In A Nutshell is making video for this pattern. It means you will be guided though each and every row and stitch. I can assure that this video is very detailed and if you have never tried overlay crochet before – maybe this is the right time to give it a try.
Approx. 87g of Stone Washed XL is used for each square (just under two skeins) and entire blanket weights 1820g.
FREE pattern will be published next week here on my blog. And if you would like to use the same yarn as me, there are kits available for purchase via Wool Warehouse (HERE*) and Deramores (HERE*) - both UK retailers ship orders internationally. And of course you can find Stone Washed XL yarn in your local Scheepjes shops. I will keep you updated... :)
UPDATE: Celtic tiles Blanket pattern is available for free HERE. You can also purchase a ready-to-print PDF of this pattern HERE on Ravelry.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
* thank you for using my affiliate links. It costs you nothing and helps to support my blog.
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