Showing posts with label Stone washed XL. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stone washed XL. Show all posts
To Celebrate National Crochet Month
Did you know that March is a National Crochet Month? Yes, it’s almost end of month – that’s true. But still it’s not too late to join the celebration. Today I am happy to be a representative of 5th Annual NatCroMo Blog tour. Please, visit their official page HERE to get acquainted with other participating designers. And HERE you can read a short interview with me.
To celebrate National Crochet Month I have just released a new overlay crochet pattern. Recently I have been under influence of Celtic designs, and I have created several Celtic patterns (check my Celtic Mandala and Celtic Tiles Blanket). I have been in love with crochet cables for a while now and got an idea of a new design. I wanted to “draw” a tree. A lonely but hoping tree.
Three months ago together with my family and friends we spent a week in the mountains, enjoying true winter with freezing temperatures and lots of snow. We went skiing in the mornings and enjoyed evenings in front of the fireplace. And we made lots of walks around the neighborhood with our dog. During these long walks I saw lots of lonely trees in the fields, frozen and covered with snow. They looked magic.
In one of the evenings I draw a sketch of a tree on a napkin. I felt so inspired and wishing to recreate this drawing into crochet when I returned home. And it worked!!! Later I added two cabled panels to frame a tree square, and to turn it into a pillow throw.
So here is my new Tree of Life pillow pattern! It is available for purchase HERE on Ravelry.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue
I used Stone Washed XL yarn* (aran weight) in shade Crystal Quartz (854) to express my feelings about last winter. And when the pattern was ready, I decided to make another pillow in light green color New Jade (859) – 8 skeins for complete pillow throw. Because of gauge difference you will need two hooks for this project – 4.5mm (7) and 5mm (H). The clasp includes 2 wooden buttons in appropriate size (I used Scheepjes olive wood buttons* - 30mm).
Because of multiple front post stitches the crochet fabric is pretty tight and dense, so no lining is not needed.
Central Tree panel can be used as a separate decoration – for an old fabric pillowcase, for example. Or as a motif for an afghan (and if you use soft yarn, the square will not be so stiff). I thought it can also work nicely for a potholder, so I made one for myself with Catona yarn* in shade Kiwi (205) with Petal Peach (263) for the edge. To complement my new potholder, I made another one with Celtic Tiles free pattern. And lined both pieces with natural linen fabric (just stitched it by hand to crochet).
Tree of Life pillow pattern is aimed to intermediate crocheters who already know how to make front post stitches and keep the gauge under control. There are lots of progress pictures and complete stitch guide in the pattern. A print friendly copy is also available for download. The pattern has been thoroughly tested by 11 testers. I hope you will enjoy it, and of course I am always here to help you.
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Brief information about Tree of Life pillow pattern:
- Level: Intermediate (front post stitches)
- Materials: aran yarn in one colour (Stone Washed XL by Scheepjes - available via Wool Warehouse HERE*, Deramores HERE*, Paradise Fibers (US)* and in your local Scheepjes shops), 4.5mm (US7) and 5mm (H) crochet hooks, stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle to weave in ends.
- The size of finished pillow depends on the yarn and hook you use. My pillow is approx. 40 cm (16 inches) large.
- Language: English
- Instructions: US crochet terms and abbreviations (including complete stitch guide), written instructions, step-by-step pictures. Print friendly copy of the pattern is available (with no pictures)
- Tree of Life pillow pattern is available HERE on Ravelry. Use code TREE to get 25% off through Monday, March 27.
- Add this pattern to Ravelry Queue
* DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I may get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
Celtic Tiles Blanket consists of 20 squares made in overlay crochet technique with simple border. It’s not as well draping as other cabled crochet blankets, but it gives a very nice feeling of coziness and warmness. Perfect for winter times. Read more about this blanket in THIS blog post (with more reveal pictures).
* DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I may get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
st(s) stitch(es)
ch chain
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
BL back loop(s)
WS wrong side
RS right side
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
FPtr (front post treble crochet) - yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble 2 together) - * yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
FPdtr (front post double treble crochet) – yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.
FPdtr2tog (front post double treble crochet 2 together) - *yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp,[yo, pull through 2 lps] 3 times*, twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
1. Reading the pattern. This pattern contains written instructions and a lot of pictures showing to which sts the overlaid stitches should be added (these sts are marked by arrows). I would strongly recommend using both kinds of instructions. It will be easier to read and understand the written instructions after looking at the pictures. This pattern is written for right-handed people.
2. Turning ch1/ch2. This square is worked in rows, back and forth. Ch1/ch2 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as a st. So 1st st is always made in 1st st of previous row.
3. Gauge. Overlaid stitches are used to crochet this square, that’s why it is very important to have their gauge under control: they should be neither too loose nor too tight, because this will lead to a deformation of the shape. The right tensioned overlay stitches should be made to the height of the working round. And width of your square should stay the same after each row.
4. Skipping sts. Overlaid stitches “hide” the stitches of background and this is the reason, why sc of the working round should be skipped. Please note that the number of overlaid stitches is always the same as the number of skipped sts. And stitch count after each row is the same.
It might be tricky to keep track on skipped sts. Stitch markers can help you. After completing sc before each group of next FPsts, insert stitch marker in next sts. Then make indicated FPsts. And now 1st marked sts behind them will be counted at 1st skipped st.
Because you always skip sts behind FPsts, you will have gaps behind them. They are adding drape to the square and prevent it from being stiff. If you would like to get rid of these gaps, you can “close” them working on wrong side. To do so, insert the hook in back loops of skipped stitches and under both loops of corresponding FPsts of previous row (see pics below).
5. Inserting hook. If you make a front post stitch, the hook is always inserted from front to back and then again to front around the post (vertical part) of the indicated st. In other words, the hook will be inserted behind the post.
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*Purchase an ad-free and ready-to-print PDF of this pattern (including all Important Notes, material list, stitch guide, complete instructions and photo tutorials) HERE on Ravelry. There is also a print friendly copy of the pattern available for download - with no pictures*
VIDEO. Esther of It's All In A Nutshell has made a very detailed and professional video for this pattern (HERE). She will guide you through every single stitch.
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2017. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
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To complete one square you will need approx. 86-87g of Stone Washed XL. Please, make sure you use not more than this amount, because otherwise yarn in the kit will not be enough to complete the blanket.
Row 1. (WS) Ch38. 1dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1dc in each ch to the end. Turn. (36 sts)
Row 2. (RS) Ch1 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout), 1sc in each st to the end. Turn (36 sts)
Row 3. Ch2 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout), 1dc in each st to the end. Turn.
Row 4. Note: all front post stitches are made around sts from 2 rows below – here and throughout the pattern.
Ch1, 3sc, 1FPtr around 6th sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sts, skip 3 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 3sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 2 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 14sc, 1FPtr around 9th sc (from the end of the row) from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 2 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 3sc, 1FPtr around same sc, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 3 sts behind FPtr just made, 3sc; turn.
Row 5. As row 3.
Row 6. Ch1, 5sc, 1FPtr around 1st FPtr below, 1FPtr2tog around next 2 FPtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPtr around each of 2FPtr below, skip 2sc on row 4, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 4 sts on row 5, 2sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 4 sc on row 4, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 4 sts on row 5, 2sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPtr below, skip 4 sts on row 5, 3sc, 1FPtr2tog around next 2FPtr, 1FPtr around next FPtr, skip 2 sts on row 5, 5sc; turn.
Row 7. As row 3.
Row 8. Note: on this and all next rows by “skipped sts” are meant sts of previous row, hidden behind front post stitches just made.
Ch1, 7sc, 1FPdtr around 1st FPtr below, 1FPdtr around next FPtr2tog, *skip next 2 FPtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPtr below* 3 times, 1FPdtr around next FPtr2tog, 1FPdtr around next FPtr, skip 4sts, 7sc; turn.
Row 9. As row 3.
Row 10. Ch1, 6sc, skip 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made (see pics below), skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* 3 times, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, skip 2 sts, 6sc; turn.
Row 11. As row 3.
Row 12. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn.
Row 13. As row 3.
Row 14. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4 sts, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn.
Row 15. As row 3.
Row 16. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn.
Row 17. As row 3.
Row 18. Ch1, 6sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 2sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4 sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 6sc; turn.
Row 19. As row 3.
Row 20. Ch1, 7sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPtr, skip 4sts, 7sc; turn.
Row 21. As row 3.
Row 22. Ch1, 5sc, skip 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* 3 times, 1sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip 2 sts, 5sc; turn.
Row 23. As row 3.
Row 24. Note: for a neater result instead of 2 FPdtr around same st, make 1FPdtr around indicated st and then 1tr inserting the hook in a hole at the bottom of FPdtr just made (see pic’s below).
Ch1, 3sc, 1FPdtr around 1st FPdtr below, 2FPdtr around next FPdtr below, skip 3sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 2FPdtr around next FPdtr, 1FPdtr around next FPdtr, skip 3 sts, 3sc; turn.
Row 25. As row 3.
Row 26. Ch1, 5sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr2tog around next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around next FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 18sc, 1FPdtr around 5th (from the end of row) FPdtr below, 1FPdtr2tog around next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 5sc; turn.
Row 27. As row 3.
(RS) Ch1, 3sc in 1st st, 34sc, 3sc in last st, turn a quarter, 34 sc along the side evenly, turn a quarter, 3sc in 1st ch of foundation ch, 1sc in each of next 34ch, 3sc in last ch, turn a quarter, 34 sc along the side evenly. Join with ss in 1st sc after ch1. Fasten off, weave in tail. Block square to measurements.
Join squares together using the ‘flat zip method’ into a grid of 5 x 4 squares:
Place 2 squares to be joined next to one another, RS facing up. Insert your hook through the back loop of central st in the corner of the square on the right from front to back. Insert the hook through back loop of the central st in the corner of the other square from front to back, yo and draw through all 3 loops on the hook. Continue joining the back loops of each st with a ss in this way. The back loops of the stitches on each square will be the ones that are nearest the centre when you lay the squares side-by-side.
After last join don’t fasten off, turn, make ch1 and 1sc in the joining seam. Then continue to crochet around the entire blanket with sc on the WS always making 1sc in each joining seam and 3sc in the central sc in each corner. In the end of this rnd join with ss in the 1st sc and fasten off.
On RS make surface ss around the edge of the blanket inserting the hook in the sts of last round of small squares. Please, check THIS tutorial about how to make surface ss:
Congratulations! Your Celtic Tiles blanket is now completed!!
If you feel following written instructions is too difficult, please, watch Esther's video (It's All In a Nutshell):
About Celtic Tiles Blanket in brief:
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What you’ll need
- Yarn in one color. I used yarn “Stone Washed XL" by Scheepjes (50g/1.76 oz.,130 m/142 yds.) in shade Crystal Quartz (854) 87g for one square; 38 skeins for entire blanket
- Amour Crochet hook 5 mm (H)* or size needed to get an acceptable gauge.
- Stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle to weave in yarn tails.
Stone Washed XL yarn is available for purchase in local Scheepjes stores and via online retailers:
Caro's Atelier* (NL and Europe)
Knotty House* (CA)
* DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I may get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
Gauge
15 sts x 10 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4in x 4in) with one row of dc, one row of sc patternFinished size
Each square is approx. 30cm/12” large when blocked. The entire blanket is approx. 122cm x 152cm (48in x 60in)Abbreviations and Stitch Guide (US terms)
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.
st(s) stitch(es)
ch chain
yo yarn over
lp(s) loop(s)
BL back loop(s)
WS wrong side
RS right side
sk skip st(s)
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
ss (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
FPtr (front post treble crochet) - yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 3 times.
FPtr2tog (front post treble 2 together) - * yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
FPdtr (front post double treble crochet) – yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* 4 times.
FPdtr2tog (front post double treble crochet 2 together) - *yo 3 times, insert hook from front to back around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp,[yo, pull through 2 lps] 3 times*, twice, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.
Important notes
1. Reading the pattern. This pattern contains written instructions and a lot of pictures showing to which sts the overlaid stitches should be added (these sts are marked by arrows). I would strongly recommend using both kinds of instructions. It will be easier to read and understand the written instructions after looking at the pictures. This pattern is written for right-handed people.
2. Turning ch1/ch2. This square is worked in rows, back and forth. Ch1/ch2 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as a st. So 1st st is always made in 1st st of previous row.
3. Gauge. Overlaid stitches are used to crochet this square, that’s why it is very important to have their gauge under control: they should be neither too loose nor too tight, because this will lead to a deformation of the shape. The right tensioned overlay stitches should be made to the height of the working round. And width of your square should stay the same after each row.
4. Skipping sts. Overlaid stitches “hide” the stitches of background and this is the reason, why sc of the working round should be skipped. Please note that the number of overlaid stitches is always the same as the number of skipped sts. And stitch count after each row is the same.
It might be tricky to keep track on skipped sts. Stitch markers can help you. After completing sc before each group of next FPsts, insert stitch marker in next sts. Then make indicated FPsts. And now 1st marked sts behind them will be counted at 1st skipped st.
Because you always skip sts behind FPsts, you will have gaps behind them. They are adding drape to the square and prevent it from being stiff. If you would like to get rid of these gaps, you can “close” them working on wrong side. To do so, insert the hook in back loops of skipped stitches and under both loops of corresponding FPsts of previous row (see pics below).
5. Inserting hook. If you make a front post stitch, the hook is always inserted from front to back and then again to front around the post (vertical part) of the indicated st. In other words, the hook will be inserted behind the post.
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Instructions – Square (make 20)
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue*Purchase an ad-free and ready-to-print PDF of this pattern (including all Important Notes, material list, stitch guide, complete instructions and photo tutorials) HERE on Ravelry. There is also a print friendly copy of the pattern available for download - with no pictures*
VIDEO. Esther of It's All In A Nutshell has made a very detailed and professional video for this pattern (HERE). She will guide you through every single stitch.
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2017. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
******************************************************
To complete one square you will need approx. 86-87g of Stone Washed XL. Please, make sure you use not more than this amount, because otherwise yarn in the kit will not be enough to complete the blanket.
Row 1. (WS) Ch38. 1dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1dc in each ch to the end. Turn. (36 sts)
Row 2. (RS) Ch1 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout), 1sc in each st to the end. Turn (36 sts)
Row 3. Ch2 (doesn’t count as st here and throughout), 1dc in each st to the end. Turn.
Row 4. Note: all front post stitches are made around sts from 2 rows below – here and throughout the pattern.
Ch1, 3sc, 1FPtr around 6th sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sts, skip 3 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 3sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 2 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 14sc, 1FPtr around 9th sc (from the end of the row) from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 2 sts behind FPtr’s just made, 3sc, 1FPtr around same sc, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 3 sts behind FPtr just made, 3sc; turn.
Row 5. As row 3.
Row 6. Ch1, 5sc, 1FPtr around 1st FPtr below, 1FPtr2tog around next 2 FPtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPtr around each of 2FPtr below, skip 2sc on row 4, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 4 sts on row 5, 2sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, skip 4 sc on row 4, 1FPtr around each of next 2 sc, skip 4 sts on row 5, 2sc, 1FPtr around same sc from 2 rows below, 1FPtr around next sc, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPtr below, skip 4 sts on row 5, 3sc, 1FPtr2tog around next 2FPtr, 1FPtr around next FPtr, skip 2 sts on row 5, 5sc; turn.
Row 8. Note: on this and all next rows by “skipped sts” are meant sts of previous row, hidden behind front post stitches just made.
Ch1, 7sc, 1FPdtr around 1st FPtr below, 1FPdtr around next FPtr2tog, *skip next 2 FPtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPtr below* 3 times, 1FPdtr around next FPtr2tog, 1FPdtr around next FPtr, skip 4sts, 7sc; turn.
Row 9. As row 3.
Row 10. Ch1, 6sc, skip 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made (see pics below), skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* 3 times, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, skip 2 sts, 6sc; turn.
Row 11. As row 3.
Row 12. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn.
Row 13. As row 3.
Row 14. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr placing them under FPdtr just made, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4 sts, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn.
Row 15. As row 3.
Row 16. Ch1, 4sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 4sc; turn.
Row 17. As row 3.
Row 18. Ch1, 6sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPtr below, skip 2 sts, 2sc, 1FPtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc,
1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, 1FPtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4 sts, 2sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip 2 sts, 6sc; turn.
Row 19. As row 3.
Row 20. Ch1, 7sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, skip next 2 FPtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr below, skip 4sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPtr, skip 4sts, 7sc; turn.
Row 21. As row 3.
Row 22. Ch1, 5sc, skip 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 2sc* 3 times, 1sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr below placing them under FPdtr just made, skip 2 sts, 5sc; turn.
Row 23. As row 3.
Row 24. Note: for a neater result instead of 2 FPdtr around same st, make 1FPdtr around indicated st and then 1tr inserting the hook in a hole at the bottom of FPdtr just made (see pic’s below).
Ch1, 3sc, 1FPdtr around 1st FPdtr below, 2FPdtr around next FPdtr below, skip 3sts, 3sc, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 2sc, *1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4sts, 2sc* twice, 1FPdtr around each of 2 skipped FPdtr, skip 2 sts, 3sc, 2FPdtr around next FPdtr, 1FPdtr around next FPdtr, skip 3 sts, 3sc; turn.
Row 25. As row 3.
Row 26. Ch1, 5sc, 1FPdtr around each of 2 FPdtr below, 1FPdtr2tog around next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around next FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 18sc, 1FPdtr around 5th (from the end of row) FPdtr below, 1FPdtr2tog around next 2 FPdtr, 1FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr, skip 4 sts, 5sc; turn.
Row 27. As row 3.
Edge
(RS) Ch1, 3sc in 1st st, 34sc, 3sc in last st, turn a quarter, 34 sc along the side evenly, turn a quarter, 3sc in 1st ch of foundation ch, 1sc in each of next 34ch, 3sc in last ch, turn a quarter, 34 sc along the side evenly. Join with ss in 1st sc after ch1. Fasten off, weave in tail. Block square to measurements.
Joining and Border
Join squares together using the ‘flat zip method’ into a grid of 5 x 4 squares:
Place 2 squares to be joined next to one another, RS facing up. Insert your hook through the back loop of central st in the corner of the square on the right from front to back. Insert the hook through back loop of the central st in the corner of the other square from front to back, yo and draw through all 3 loops on the hook. Continue joining the back loops of each st with a ss in this way. The back loops of the stitches on each square will be the ones that are nearest the centre when you lay the squares side-by-side.
After last join don’t fasten off, turn, make ch1 and 1sc in the joining seam. Then continue to crochet around the entire blanket with sc on the WS always making 1sc in each joining seam and 3sc in the central sc in each corner. In the end of this rnd join with ss in the 1st sc and fasten off.
On RS make surface ss around the edge of the blanket inserting the hook in the sts of last round of small squares. Please, check THIS tutorial about how to make surface ss:
Congratulations! Your Celtic Tiles blanket is now completed!!
If you feel following written instructions is too difficult, please, watch Esther's video (It's All In a Nutshell):
About Celtic Tiles Blanket in brief:
- Level: Intermediate (front post stitches)
- Materials: Aran yarn in one color (Stone Washed XL by Scheepjes - yarn packs (38 skeins) are available at Wool Warehouse HERE*, Deramores HERE* and in your local Scheepjes shops), 5mm(H) crochet hook, stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle to weave in ends.
- Size: each square is approx. 30cm/12in large. Entire blanket is 122cm x 152cm (48in x 60in).
- Language: English
- Instructions: US crochet terms and abbreviations (including complete stitch guide), written instructions, step-by-step pictures.
- Ready-to-print ads free pattern in PDF format is available for purchase HERE on Ravelry.
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Today is the Ta-dah moment. I finished my Celtic Tiles Blanket (and yes, it already has the name), and can finally show it to you. It’s my second experience with Celtic design and I am so much in love with cables. So for sure new patterns will come in the future.
So here is my finished blanket. I used Stone Washed XL* yarn by Scheepjes and in my opinion the yarn and the pattern work together really well. The blanket consists of 20 squares (every square is approx 30cm/12” large) and the entire size of the blanket is approx. 122cm x 152cm (48in x 60in). Of course you can add more squares and make it larger.
The color you see in the pictures is Crystal Quartz – a nice light grey shade. I made 4 additional samples to show you how the squares can look in different colors: Moon Stone, Smokey Quartz, Amazonite and Boulder Opal. And I can’t really say which is my favorite. I love the classical look of cream (Moon Stone) and I would be happy to make a cream blanket for myself. But unfortunately with a very active dog and my almost 6-years-old son it would be impossible to keep it clean for a long time. So I thought grey might be the best choice for me – not too light and not too dark. But don’t you agree that cables look fantastic in darker shade as well?
I didn’t use classical Aran crochet (cabling) for my Celtic Tiles blanket. Instead I decided to go for an overlay crochet – my beloved crochet technique. What does it mean? It means that there is a plain background made with sc and dc stitches (US terms) and cables are added onto this background on the right side of the blanket. So wrong side is plain and right side is structured, and there are two layers instead of one.
Overlay crochet made this blanket a little bit more sturdy and heavy than it would be with just classical cables. But this is exact effect I wanted to achieve. I wanted to create a blanket which you can really feel. It’s not very well draped, but it’s very warm and cozy – just perfect for winter times.
This design may look a little bit tricky, but I have a happy news for you! Esther of It’s All In A Nutshell is making video for this pattern. It means you will be guided though each and every row and stitch. I can assure that this video is very detailed and if you have never tried overlay crochet before – maybe this is the right time to give it a try.
Approx. 87g of Stone Washed XL is used for each square (just under two skeins) and entire blanket weights 1820g.
FREE pattern will be published next week here on my blog. And if you would like to use the same yarn as me, there are kits available for purchase via Wool Warehouse (HERE*) and Deramores (HERE*) - both UK retailers ship orders internationally. And of course you can find Stone Washed XL yarn in your local Scheepjes shops. I will keep you updated... :)
UPDATE: Celtic tiles Blanket pattern is available for free HERE. You can also purchase a ready-to-print PDF of this pattern HERE on Ravelry.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
* thank you for using my affiliate links. It costs you nothing and helps to support my blog.
So here is my finished blanket. I used Stone Washed XL* yarn by Scheepjes and in my opinion the yarn and the pattern work together really well. The blanket consists of 20 squares (every square is approx 30cm/12” large) and the entire size of the blanket is approx. 122cm x 152cm (48in x 60in). Of course you can add more squares and make it larger.
The color you see in the pictures is Crystal Quartz – a nice light grey shade. I made 4 additional samples to show you how the squares can look in different colors: Moon Stone, Smokey Quartz, Amazonite and Boulder Opal. And I can’t really say which is my favorite. I love the classical look of cream (Moon Stone) and I would be happy to make a cream blanket for myself. But unfortunately with a very active dog and my almost 6-years-old son it would be impossible to keep it clean for a long time. So I thought grey might be the best choice for me – not too light and not too dark. But don’t you agree that cables look fantastic in darker shade as well?
I didn’t use classical Aran crochet (cabling) for my Celtic Tiles blanket. Instead I decided to go for an overlay crochet – my beloved crochet technique. What does it mean? It means that there is a plain background made with sc and dc stitches (US terms) and cables are added onto this background on the right side of the blanket. So wrong side is plain and right side is structured, and there are two layers instead of one.
Overlay crochet made this blanket a little bit more sturdy and heavy than it would be with just classical cables. But this is exact effect I wanted to achieve. I wanted to create a blanket which you can really feel. It’s not very well draped, but it’s very warm and cozy – just perfect for winter times.
This design may look a little bit tricky, but I have a happy news for you! Esther of It’s All In A Nutshell is making video for this pattern. It means you will be guided though each and every row and stitch. I can assure that this video is very detailed and if you have never tried overlay crochet before – maybe this is the right time to give it a try.
Approx. 87g of Stone Washed XL is used for each square (just under two skeins) and entire blanket weights 1820g.
FREE pattern will be published next week here on my blog. And if you would like to use the same yarn as me, there are kits available for purchase via Wool Warehouse (HERE*) and Deramores (HERE*) - both UK retailers ship orders internationally. And of course you can find Stone Washed XL yarn in your local Scheepjes shops. I will keep you updated... :)
UPDATE: Celtic tiles Blanket pattern is available for free HERE. You can also purchase a ready-to-print PDF of this pattern HERE on Ravelry.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
* thank you for using my affiliate links. It costs you nothing and helps to support my blog.
You may probably know I have been working on a new blanket design using Stone Washed XL* yarn by Scheepjes. I had a few more sleepless nights and I am very close to writing the pattern down. Next week I will be busy making a photo-tutorial and hopefully I will also show you finished blanket. Oh yes, the pattern will be free!
What is my blanket about? It is about cables again. Cables and squares. Last year my Celtic Cabled Mandala design was released and it had a huge success. And this showed me crochet cables are very trendy right now. Patterns with front post stitches are not lazy and require lots of attention. And they are fun to follow and to make. Very often they call for just one colour, and there is no need to weave in endless yarn tails. And that’s a big advantage, don’t you agree?
I chose Stone Washed XL yarn because it’s very tactile, very nice to touch and perfect for blanket designs. It’s Aran weight and blankets made with this yarn give a nice heavy feel. I can’t wait to join my squares together and to snuggle under this blanket.
As I noted last week, I am using Crystal Quartz for my own blanket. But Stone Washed XL by Scheepjes has a very nice range of colours, and you can choose what you like the most. I made several samples to show you – in Moon Stone, Boulder Opal and Smokey Quartz. There will be one more sample in Amazonite, I will finish it and show you next week. I think cables look equally good when made with both light and dark shades. It’s even possible to mix them.
In free pattern I will give you exact yardages for each square, and you will be able to compose your own blanket.
In a meanwhile you can have a look at colour charts at Wool Warehouse (HERE*) and Deramores (HERE*) – both retailers ship orders worldwide. Stone Wahsed XL yarn is also available at Paradise Fibers* (US) and in your local Scheepjes shops.
And now I am back to my crochet again… See you soon!
UPDATE: the pattern for Celtic Tiles Square is available HERE.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
* thank you for using my affiliate links. It costs you nothing and helps to support my blog.
What is my blanket about? It is about cables again. Cables and squares. Last year my Celtic Cabled Mandala design was released and it had a huge success. And this showed me crochet cables are very trendy right now. Patterns with front post stitches are not lazy and require lots of attention. And they are fun to follow and to make. Very often they call for just one colour, and there is no need to weave in endless yarn tails. And that’s a big advantage, don’t you agree?
I chose Stone Washed XL yarn because it’s very tactile, very nice to touch and perfect for blanket designs. It’s Aran weight and blankets made with this yarn give a nice heavy feel. I can’t wait to join my squares together and to snuggle under this blanket.
As I noted last week, I am using Crystal Quartz for my own blanket. But Stone Washed XL by Scheepjes has a very nice range of colours, and you can choose what you like the most. I made several samples to show you – in Moon Stone, Boulder Opal and Smokey Quartz. There will be one more sample in Amazonite, I will finish it and show you next week. I think cables look equally good when made with both light and dark shades. It’s even possible to mix them.
In free pattern I will give you exact yardages for each square, and you will be able to compose your own blanket.
In a meanwhile you can have a look at colour charts at Wool Warehouse (HERE*) and Deramores (HERE*) – both retailers ship orders worldwide. Stone Wahsed XL yarn is also available at Paradise Fibers* (US) and in your local Scheepjes shops.
And now I am back to my crochet again… See you soon!
UPDATE: the pattern for Celtic Tiles Square is available HERE.
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
* thank you for using my affiliate links. It costs you nothing and helps to support my blog.
Recently I’ve entered the mode of hard and non-stop designing. It happens sometimes that after a long and not very productive pause you suddenly feel a constant stream of creative energy. When ideas stay in long line and you want to take all of them at once. I literally didn’t sleep and eat for last 3 days and I feel a kind of empty. But! The result is here! I have come up with new designs and I am so impatient to show you all at once. But maybe I should better do it one by one… and today I will begin telling you about one of them.
As you may know I am in love with overlay crochet and everything structured, textured and cabled. I have been using many colors in my work, but recently I started to think it would be nice to show the structure first. And not just the colors. So for my new design (which will involve lots and lots of cabling) I chose plain shades of Stone Washed XL* yarn by Scheepjes. Have you tried it? If not, you definitely should!
Stone Washed XL is an Aran version of famous and very well known regular Stone Washed yarn by Scheepjes (reviewed HERE). It has exactly the same structure, and comes in same (23) shades. But it calls for a larger needles and crochet hook (5mm/H). This is a cotton blend (70% Cotton x 30% Acrylic) and though it is Aran, finished projects are not too heavy.
Stone Washed XL comes in balls of 50g with 75m yardage. It’s available for purchase via UK retailers Wool Warehouse* and Deramores* (both are shipping orders internationally), Paradise Fibers* (US) and in your local Scheepjes shops. And if you like the yarn bowl in the picture, it's produced by Scheepjes too (check it HERE*).
I chose Crystal Quartz for my new project. And I am pretty happy with how it looks. This shade is light but at the same time it’s very practical. I really love cables in white or cream, but as far as I am making a blanket (yes, it will be a blanket!) I want it to last as long as possible without washing. It’s snowing a lot these days in the Czech Republic. We haven’t had so much snow since long ago. And Crystal Quartz perfectly speaks to this winter. And perfectly reflects the view I am seeing from my window.
Other shades will work well for this design too. I will show you different samples next week.
I can’t reveal anything else, let’s keep it a secret. But be sure to check my blog next week as you will see new updates. And… this new design will be published on my blog for free!
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
See you soon,
* thank you for using my affiliate links. It costs you nothing and helps to support my blog.
As you may know I am in love with overlay crochet and everything structured, textured and cabled. I have been using many colors in my work, but recently I started to think it would be nice to show the structure first. And not just the colors. So for my new design (which will involve lots and lots of cabling) I chose plain shades of Stone Washed XL* yarn by Scheepjes. Have you tried it? If not, you definitely should!
Stone Washed XL is an Aran version of famous and very well known regular Stone Washed yarn by Scheepjes (reviewed HERE). It has exactly the same structure, and comes in same (23) shades. But it calls for a larger needles and crochet hook (5mm/H). This is a cotton blend (70% Cotton x 30% Acrylic) and though it is Aran, finished projects are not too heavy.
Stone Washed XL comes in balls of 50g with 75m yardage. It’s available for purchase via UK retailers Wool Warehouse* and Deramores* (both are shipping orders internationally), Paradise Fibers* (US) and in your local Scheepjes shops. And if you like the yarn bowl in the picture, it's produced by Scheepjes too (check it HERE*).
I chose Crystal Quartz for my new project. And I am pretty happy with how it looks. This shade is light but at the same time it’s very practical. I really love cables in white or cream, but as far as I am making a blanket (yes, it will be a blanket!) I want it to last as long as possible without washing. It’s snowing a lot these days in the Czech Republic. We haven’t had so much snow since long ago. And Crystal Quartz perfectly speaks to this winter. And perfectly reflects the view I am seeing from my window.
Other shades will work well for this design too. I will show you different samples next week.
I can’t reveal anything else, let’s keep it a secret. But be sure to check my blog next week as you will see new updates. And… this new design will be published on my blog for free!
Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
See you soon,
* thank you for using my affiliate links. It costs you nothing and helps to support my blog.
I have been working on a new design recently. And when I was almost done, I suddenly found out there was a mistake made in the very beginning, and I needed to rip several first rows. As an alternative, I could frog the entire project of course, and remake everything from the beginning. But it would be lots of extra work. So instead I decided to investigate a bit and find out, how is it possible to restore a foundation chain for any row, without frogging everything. My first attempt was successful and I decided to write down a tutorial. I hope it will be helpful for you.
When to use this trick?
a) It can be used when you (as me) made a mistake on some rows and need to frog something without remaking the whole project.
b) This trick can help you to repair old or torn project – a blanket, for example. Once you restore the foundation chain for one of the rows, you can continue crocheting in the opposite direction and enlarge your project to the desired size.
Important Note:
Before using this trick on your actual project, please, train once (or better several times) on a sample. Ideally use the same yarn as your project is made with. It will help you to regulate tension and be confident that the trick works well for you. And only when you master it – please, try to apply it for your project.
STEP 1
First of all you should decide which part you would like to frog and where exactly (for which row) you want to restore a foundation chain.For the purposes of this tutorial I used Stone Washed XL* yarn by Scheepjes. I used contrasting colors for you to clearly see what is happening.
First I will show you how to restore a foundation chain for the row made with double crochet stitches (US terms are used here). I made a sample in two colors and with rows of single crochet and double crochet. As shown in the picture below, I would like to get rid of blue and yellow parts below (inside red rectangle).
I worked on the right side, but it is possible also to make a new foundation chain on the wrong side. It will bring a little bit different effect. So you can experiment a bit (on a sample piece!!!) and see what you like more.
STEP 2
Turn your piece at 180 degrees (so that top is down now) and find the stitches where you will make a new foundation chain (marked with red).
Now you will restore the foundation chain by making a row of surface slip stitches into the posts of stitches which you want to be the first row. I used yarn of contrasting color, but you should probably work with the same yarn (it would be blue in my case).
I didn’t make a slip knot in the beginning, but you can find it useful.
Take a smaller hook and insert it under BOTH bars of the first stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop. *Insert the hook into both bars of next stitch, yarn over, draw up a loop (now you will have 2 loops on the hook) and pull 2nd loop thought 1st one. Repeat from * for EVERY stitch till the end of the row. Make sure that you carefully insert the hook under both bars and cover every single stitch of the row. Try to keep your tension under control, don’t pull too much and don’t work too tight. This row of surface slip stitches must be of the same width as your project. After making slip stitch into the last stitch, fasten off carefully and cut the yarn.
A new foundation chain is finished!
STEP 3
Now you need to unweave (very carefully and gently) the row above new foundation chain. Cut one of the stitches of the row above and start to carefully unweave stitch by stitch. You can use a tapestry needle to help you.
Congratulations!! You are done! In the pictures below you can see how new foundation chain looks on the right and wrong sides.
You can also restore foundation chain for the row of single crochet stitches. Just act in the same way as for double crochet stitches. The bars of sc are a bit shorter, so you will probably need even a smaller hook. And you should be more attentive about the tension, so that your surface slip stitches are not too tight.
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