Mandala’s are my passion. I keep creating them. And I keep working in overlay crochet. But sometimes it’s nice to step away from colorful multiplicity and make something simple and monochrome. I designed this Geometric Mandala several months ago. Since then I’ve made a few samples with different yarns and in different sizes. And I like all of them.
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This mandala project is very easy and relatively quick to make. The pattern is aimed to advanced beginners. It uses US crochet terms and you will only make chains, slip stitches, half double and double crochet stitches. There is nothing difficult or tricky!
This pattern is available for purchase HERE in my Ravelry store and you will get a 25% discount with the code Geometric through Monday, August 1.
I called this mandala “Geometric” as its lines are very clear and the repeating sections contain geometric elements.
From the very beginning my idea was to create a hot pad with pure jute yarn. This design was meant to be eco-friendly (I really wanted to use a recycled yarn), stiff and one-layered. But unfortunately I didn’t have the right yarn by hand at that time, so I used 100% Barroco Natural by Circulo instead. Because I had a nice skein of this yarn left in my stash. Barroco is much thinner and softer than jute is, so then I had to make a second, bottom, layer. And I thought that orange is a very nice addition to the white.
In general I think this mandala hot pad looks better with light coloured lace front and dark bottom, but reversed version will also be charming. More than that – you can make a set of several hot pads (or potholders) playing with the same light and dark shades!
By the way this pattern will work well for creating smaller potholders (if you use Sport yarn), making wall hanging decorations and appliqués for your fabric pillow covers (if you only use lace front) and trivets. And won't this mandala make just a perfect Christmas gift?..
Which shades would you choose to make this mandala? And what would you use it for? Please, feel free to share your ideas in comments! :)
You can subscribe to my newsletter not to miss a single post and update. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue
This mandala project is very easy and relatively quick to make. The pattern is aimed to advanced beginners. It uses US crochet terms and you will only make chains, slip stitches, half double and double crochet stitches. There is nothing difficult or tricky!
This pattern is available for purchase HERE in my Ravelry store and you will get a 25% discount with the code Geometric through Monday, August 1.
I called this mandala “Geometric” as its lines are very clear and the repeating sections contain geometric elements.
From the very beginning my idea was to create a hot pad with pure jute yarn. This design was meant to be eco-friendly (I really wanted to use a recycled yarn), stiff and one-layered. But unfortunately I didn’t have the right yarn by hand at that time, so I used 100% Barroco Natural by Circulo instead. Because I had a nice skein of this yarn left in my stash. Barroco is much thinner and softer than jute is, so then I had to make a second, bottom, layer. And I thought that orange is a very nice addition to the white.
In general I think this mandala hot pad looks better with light coloured lace front and dark bottom, but reversed version will also be charming. More than that – you can make a set of several hot pads (or potholders) playing with the same light and dark shades!
By the way this pattern will work well for creating smaller potholders (if you use Sport yarn), making wall hanging decorations and appliqués for your fabric pillow covers (if you only use lace front) and trivets. And won't this mandala make just a perfect Christmas gift?..
Which shades would you choose to make this mandala? And what would you use it for? Please, feel free to share your ideas in comments! :)
You can subscribe to my newsletter not to miss a single post and update. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Kits for upcoming Peacock Tail Bag CAL are almost here! They are exclusively sold via Wool Warehouse and are available HERE* and HERE*. You can read introductory information about my new CAL in overlay crochet in this blog post. And today I will answer all possible questions about the kits.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
Peacock Tail Bag is presented in two different color ways. I wanted to make one of them in true peacock (deep) colors. And then duplicated the bag in pastel palette. In my opinion Linen Soft yarn is the best choice for this bag design. And I am very thankful to Scheepjes (and DeBondt) for sponsoring me with yarns and other materials and supplies. Please, check all information about this CAL HERE.
If you would like to have all of them in one place (except of sewing pins, tapestry needle, sewing thread and crochet hook) – purchasing the kit will be the best option. As I’ve already mentioned, kits are available for purchase via Wool Warehouse* (with international shipping) and De Breibar (NL).
If you are afraid of sewing or you don’t feel comfortable with it (as me) – please, don’t worry. I am preparing a very detailed photo-tutorial on how to sew fabric lining for Peacock Tail Bag. My good friend Kate Tikota (a founder and designer behind the brand TIKOTA UNIQUE) will guide you through each and every step. As we tried to make the lining in as easy way as possible.
If you don’t feel like purchasing the kit or if you would like to come up with your color combination, you can choose your own shades of yarn at Wool Warehouse* (HERE), Paradise Fibers* (US/CA – HERE) or in your local Scheepjes stores. All other supplies and materials should also be available in your local craft shops.
Just to remind you, the 1st part of Peacock Tail Bag will be released on Wednesday, August 17. So it’s enough time to decide about your own colorway. But if you are located outside UK and would like to purchase the kit – please, hurry up! :)
See you soon!
p.s. You can subscribe to my newsletter not to miss a single post and update. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
Peacock Tail Bag is presented in two different color ways. I wanted to make one of them in true peacock (deep) colors. And then duplicated the bag in pastel palette. In my opinion Linen Soft yarn is the best choice for this bag design. And I am very thankful to Scheepjes (and DeBondt) for sponsoring me with yarns and other materials and supplies. Please, check all information about this CAL HERE.
If you would like to have all of them in one place (except of sewing pins, tapestry needle, sewing thread and crochet hook) – purchasing the kit will be the best option. As I’ve already mentioned, kits are available for purchase via Wool Warehouse* (with international shipping) and De Breibar (NL).
Every kit includes:
1. Yarn. Every kit contains 5 shades of Linen Soft yarn – 6 skeins in total. If you have never tried this yarn – please, read my review HERE.
2. Bag handle. It might be tricky to find appropriate handle for a crocheted bag and it took me some time before I chose one. I decided to use combined strap long enough to wear the bag as a crossbody. The handle’s length is easily adjustable. And I just love combination of chain and faux leather braid (black for deep version, and cream for pastel).
3. Fabric Lining. I believe that crocheted bags get a more professional look and a better hang when they are lined with fabric. I chose floral pattern for both versions of the bag. Pastel one is lined up with a very gentle jeans looking fabric with flower pattern. And bright lining in matching colors is offered for deep “peacock” kit.
4. Magnetic clasp. I normally use button for clasps on my crocheted bags. But this time I decided to make the clasp invisible.
5. Two metal D-rings for attachment of a bag handle.
6. Two pieces of white medium interfacing to strengthen the bag’s band.
If you are afraid of sewing or you don’t feel comfortable with it (as me) – please, don’t worry. I am preparing a very detailed photo-tutorial on how to sew fabric lining for Peacock Tail Bag. My good friend Kate Tikota (a founder and designer behind the brand TIKOTA UNIQUE) will guide you through each and every step. As we tried to make the lining in as easy way as possible.
 |
| In TIKOTA UNIQUE studio... |
If you don’t feel like purchasing the kit or if you would like to come up with your color combination, you can choose your own shades of yarn at Wool Warehouse* (HERE), Paradise Fibers* (US/CA – HERE) or in your local Scheepjes stores. All other supplies and materials should also be available in your local craft shops.
Just to remind you, the 1st part of Peacock Tail Bag will be released on Wednesday, August 17. So it’s enough time to decide about your own colorway. But if you are located outside UK and would like to purchase the kit – please, hurry up! :)
See you soon!
p.s. You can subscribe to my newsletter not to miss a single post and update. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Today is a big day as I am revealing the biggest secret I have been keeping for almost 7 months. It may sound like I will have a kid, and in a way it’s true. As I will run new CAL very soon. And yes, it is my kid! :) My new CAL will be in overlay crochet and it will be about the bag. “Peacock Tail Bag” I called it. First part will be released in mid August.UPDATE: all general information about this CAL is HERE.
I’ve created two versions of this bag: one in true peacock colors (deep version) and another one in pastel palette. There will be kits available for purchase at Wool Warehouse (international shipping) for both versions HERE and HERE on July 20. (These links are affiliate, I may be compensated with a tiny amount from purchases made via them. My CAL will be free. If you would like your friends to learn more about this CAL and kits – please, give them the link to my blog, instead of sharing kits links. Thank you in advance for support!) If you would like to read more details about the kits and their composition - please, check THIS post.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
Each kit will include 6 skeins of Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes, bag handle, magnetic clasp, fabric lining, interfacing and D-rings… Just everything you need (except of the crochet hook) to finish up your own bag. I am very grateful to Scheepjes and DeBondt for sponsoring this CAL and providing me with all materials. Linen Soft is one of my favourite yarns. Please, read my review about it HERE.
UPDATE: CAL pattern will be translated and available in Dutch, German, Spanish, Swedish, Finnish, Danish, French and Hebrew.
If you feel like choosing other shades for this project - you can look at the colors chart and choose yours at Wool Warehouse* (international shipping) and Paradise Fibers* (US). You will need 2 skeins of main color (the same shade as for the bag's band) and 1 skein in 4 more colors. And you can find other materials and supplies in your local craft store.
Last year after my first ever Circles of the Sun CAL was finished, I knew already I will design something else in the future. And give it away as a CAL. Circles of the Sun were aimed to introduce overlay crochet to you, and to give an opportunity for mastering this technique with small and simple square projects.
The response was unbelievable! I am so happy you loved overlay crochet as much as I do. I got many e-mails and private messages with pictures of different overlay crochet projects. And I decided to continue introducing this fantastic technique to you. If you haven’t heard about overlay crochet before, please, read all the information, tips and tricks HERE.
To be honest this bag design was not born at once. At first I didn’t even think about the bag. This idea belongs to Esther from It’s All In A Nutshell, whom you may know very well since my previous CAL and many other CALs she is making video’s for (by the way Esther has kindly agreed to help me with my new CAL as well (yay!!!), so please, expect very quality, detailed and professional videos!). Another great news is that CAL will be hosted in Official CCC Social group on Facebook - many thanks to Kimberly Slifer and Susan Cutler Cutrer.
The other day we were chatting with Esther on Facebook and I told her about my idea. She said, yeah, cool, but don’t design something large and busy. Keep your project simple but nice. Something that is made quickly, with no extra large effort but what can be really used. And I thought about the bag. With mandala shape. Something that doesn’t look like anything else. And then the stroke happened! And I imagined my bag in the shape and colors of a peacock tail.
I crocheted endless number of samples before I was satisfied with the pattern. And then I remade it endless number of times again, before I was satisfied with the shape. So this bag design is a kid of hard work, lots of thinking and many sleepless nights. :)
Release of first part of this CAL is planned for Wednesday, August 17. Closely before this date I will publish detailed information and everything you need to know: how the CAL will be run, where to find the posts, which tutorials to look for and so on.
If you like my Peacock Tail Bag and would like to purchase the kit but have never tried overlay crochet – please, check patterns for Circles of the Sun first. The style and pattern writing of coming CAL will be exactly the same. So already now you can see what to expect.
The difficulty level of this CAL is Intermediate. It should make no problem at all if you are already familiar with overlay crochet. But if you are a total beginner, please, make sure to check your skills first. I believe that with detailed videos this pattern will work well even for advanced beginner. But please, be aware that this project is not a “lazy” one, as it demands lots of attention, concentration and counting (as any other project in overlay crochet). But if you like challenges – I promise you will not be bored a single second, as your crocheted work will be changing and transforming after every stitch and row.
Seems like this is everything I wanted to share with you today. If you have specific questions, please ask them in comments below.
You can subscribe to my newsletter not to miss a single post and update. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
 |
| Model: Kate Tikota, founder and designer behind TIKOTA UNIQUE |
I’ve created two versions of this bag: one in true peacock colors (deep version) and another one in pastel palette. There will be kits available for purchase at Wool Warehouse (international shipping) for both versions HERE and HERE on July 20. (These links are affiliate, I may be compensated with a tiny amount from purchases made via them. My CAL will be free. If you would like your friends to learn more about this CAL and kits – please, give them the link to my blog, instead of sharing kits links. Thank you in advance for support!) If you would like to read more details about the kits and their composition - please, check THIS post.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue
Each kit will include 6 skeins of Linen Soft yarn by Scheepjes, bag handle, magnetic clasp, fabric lining, interfacing and D-rings… Just everything you need (except of the crochet hook) to finish up your own bag. I am very grateful to Scheepjes and DeBondt for sponsoring this CAL and providing me with all materials. Linen Soft is one of my favourite yarns. Please, read my review about it HERE.
UPDATE: CAL pattern will be translated and available in Dutch, German, Spanish, Swedish, Finnish, Danish, French and Hebrew.
If you feel like choosing other shades for this project - you can look at the colors chart and choose yours at Wool Warehouse* (international shipping) and Paradise Fibers* (US). You will need 2 skeins of main color (the same shade as for the bag's band) and 1 skein in 4 more colors. And you can find other materials and supplies in your local craft store.
The story behind Peacock Tail Bag design
Last year after my first ever Circles of the Sun CAL was finished, I knew already I will design something else in the future. And give it away as a CAL. Circles of the Sun were aimed to introduce overlay crochet to you, and to give an opportunity for mastering this technique with small and simple square projects.
The response was unbelievable! I am so happy you loved overlay crochet as much as I do. I got many e-mails and private messages with pictures of different overlay crochet projects. And I decided to continue introducing this fantastic technique to you. If you haven’t heard about overlay crochet before, please, read all the information, tips and tricks HERE.
To be honest this bag design was not born at once. At first I didn’t even think about the bag. This idea belongs to Esther from It’s All In A Nutshell, whom you may know very well since my previous CAL and many other CALs she is making video’s for (by the way Esther has kindly agreed to help me with my new CAL as well (yay!!!), so please, expect very quality, detailed and professional videos!). Another great news is that CAL will be hosted in Official CCC Social group on Facebook - many thanks to Kimberly Slifer and Susan Cutler Cutrer.
The other day we were chatting with Esther on Facebook and I told her about my idea. She said, yeah, cool, but don’t design something large and busy. Keep your project simple but nice. Something that is made quickly, with no extra large effort but what can be really used. And I thought about the bag. With mandala shape. Something that doesn’t look like anything else. And then the stroke happened! And I imagined my bag in the shape and colors of a peacock tail.
I crocheted endless number of samples before I was satisfied with the pattern. And then I remade it endless number of times again, before I was satisfied with the shape. So this bag design is a kid of hard work, lots of thinking and many sleepless nights. :)
What you should know
Release of first part of this CAL is planned for Wednesday, August 17. Closely before this date I will publish detailed information and everything you need to know: how the CAL will be run, where to find the posts, which tutorials to look for and so on.
If you like my Peacock Tail Bag and would like to purchase the kit but have never tried overlay crochet – please, check patterns for Circles of the Sun first. The style and pattern writing of coming CAL will be exactly the same. So already now you can see what to expect.
The difficulty level of this CAL is Intermediate. It should make no problem at all if you are already familiar with overlay crochet. But if you are a total beginner, please, make sure to check your skills first. I believe that with detailed videos this pattern will work well even for advanced beginner. But please, be aware that this project is not a “lazy” one, as it demands lots of attention, concentration and counting (as any other project in overlay crochet). But if you like challenges – I promise you will not be bored a single second, as your crocheted work will be changing and transforming after every stitch and row.
Seems like this is everything I wanted to share with you today. If you have specific questions, please ask them in comments below.
You can subscribe to my newsletter not to miss a single post and update. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Last week I showed you a photo-tutorial on how to do tapestry crochet. You can check it HERE. I hope it was helpful and if you have never tried tapestry crochet technique, it was easy for you to master it. And today I would like to share my newest pillow pattern.My pillow cover consists of two squares joined together, with zip for easier taking care. Front part is made in tapestry crochet with circles pattern. And back has simple stripes made with single crochet stitches. I wanted this pillow to be reversible. But you can make both sides with tapestry circles if you wish.
The size of finished pillow cover will depend on yarn and hook you choose, and also on your personal gauge. My pillow is approx. 44cm x 44cm (17 ½” x 17 ½”).
Gauge for front and back differs a bit, because of additional yarn going through front.
Front: 20 sts x 21 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”)
Back: 19 sts x 21 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”)
Intermediate (though I believe advanced beginners can absolutely try tapestry crochet as well).
rnd(s) - round(s)
st(s) - stitch(es)
ch - chain
sl st (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
NJ – needle join
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
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Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2016. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
Front part of the pillow is made in tapestry crochet. Each repeat consists of 16 sts + 5sts to finish (for symmetry). I made 5 repeats, but you can make more (to make the pillow larger).
Each stripe with dots (18 rows) is made with yarn in 2 colors.
Row 1. Ch86 with 802 (C1). Starting in 2nd ch from hook sc in every ch to the end. (85sc) Turn.
Rows 2-3. Ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), 85sc. Turn.
Row 4. You will start working with shades 802 (C1) and 820 (C2) at the same time.
Ch1, *8sc with C1 (change yarn on 8th sc), 5sc with C2 (change yarn on 5th sc), 3sc with C1* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 5. Сh1, *7sc with C1, 5sc with C2, 2sc with C1* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 6. Сh1, *6sc with C1, 9sc with C2, 1sc with C1* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 7-12. Сh1, *5sc with C1, 11sc with C2* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 13. As row 6.
Row 14. As row 5.
Row 15. As row 4. Cut C2 leaving 15cm (6”) tail.
Row 16-18. With C1 as row 2. Change to 816. Cut C1 leaving 15 cm (6”) tail.
Next stripe (rows 19-36) will be worked with shades 816 (C3) and 815 (C4).
Rows 19-21. With C3. As row 2.
Row 22. Ch1, *5sc with C4, 11sc with C3* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Row 23. Ch1, *6sc with C4, 9sc with C3, 1sc with C4* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Row 24. Ch1, *7sc with C4, 7sc with C3, 2sc with C4* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Rows 25-30. Ch1, *8sc with C4, 5sc with C3, 3sc with C4* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Row 31. As row 24.
Row 32. As row 23.
Row 33. As row 22. Cut C4 leaving 15cm (6”) tail.
Rows 34-36. With C3 as row2. Change to 806. Cut C1 leaving 15 cm (6”) tail.
Rows 37-54. Repeat rows 1-18 working with shades 806 (C1) and 801 (C2).
Rows 55-72. Repeat rows 19-36 working with shades 808 (C3) and 813 (C4).
Rows 73-90. Repeat rows 1-19 working with shades 805 (C1) and 817 (C2).
Note: after row 90 you should get a square shape.
After row 90 change to shade 808 and crochet around the whole square making 85sc on each side and 3sc in each corner (for even and neat work - make 17sc into every stripe on the sides). Finish with sl st in 1st sc of this rnd or with NJ in 2nd sc. Cut yarn and weave all tails in.
You have two options for the back. To make it easier, you can begin with the same stitch count as for front (ch86 and 85sc on each row) and make necessary amount of stripes to match the front in height. Since you will have the same stitch count on the bottom and top, it will be easy to join both parts together.
I wanted the back of my pillow to be composed of stripes which are later squared up with simple striped border. To imitate quilt. So I began with a smaller stitch count. Here is what I did:
Row 1. Ch75 with 802. Starting in 2nd ch from hook sc in every ch to the end. (75sc) Turn
Row 2-90. Ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), 75sc. Turn.
Color way:
Rows 1-9. Shade 802
Rows 10-18. Shade 820
Rows 19-27. Shade 815
Rows 28-36. Shade 816
Rows 37-45. Shade 806
Rows 46-54. Shade 808
Rows 55-63. Shade 817
Rows 64-72. Shade 813
Rows 73-81. Shade 801
Rows 82-90. Shade 805
After row 90 the back is approx. 40cm x 39 cm (16” x 15 ½”). To bring stitch count of the back to the same amount as front, change yarn to 808 after row 90 and start working around the whole square.
Rnd 1. 75sc on the top, 3sc in the corner, turn quarter and work 75sc on next side (you will make 7sc and 8sc in every other stripe), 3sc in next corner, 75 sc on the bottom, 3sc in corner, 75sc on next side (same as previous), 3sc in corner. Join with sl st in 1st sc of the rnd. Mark central sc in every corner.
Rnd 2. Ch1 (not a st), sc in same st. Continue crocheting around the square and make 3sc in every marked st in the corner. Join either with sl st in1st sc after ch1, or with Needle (invisible) Join into 2nd st after ch1 (see tutorial HERE). Fasten off. (77sc on each side + 3sc in every corner)
Rnds 3-4. Join shade 815 in any st after central st in the corner (by simply pulling a loop and making ch1) and sc around making 3sc in central st in each corner. Join as on rnd 2. Fasten off. (After rnd 4 you’ll get 81 sc on each side + 3 sc in every corner)
Rnds 5-6. With shade 817 repeat rnds 3 and 4. (After rnd 6 you’ll get 85 sc on each side + 3 sc in every corner. And this is the same stitch count as on front!)
After rnd 6 back part should be the same size as front!
Place front and back with wrong sides facing (I liked the wrong side look of the border on the back, so I decided that wrong side will be right. But you may join the pillow as you like). You will crochet joning row on the back! With shade 813 start joining both parts on the bottom approx 5cm (2”) before the corner – for an appropriate size of the zip opening.
Important! Find central sc in the corner on both front and back and make sure you begin joining in the right st on front and back (the amount of sts till the corner should be the same!)
Crochet with sc till the 1st corner (insert the hook under all 4 loops), continue crocheting along 3 next sides, and make the same amount on another edge of the bottom as in the beginning. Don’t fasten off and continue to crochet with sc on the back only. When you come to the beginning of joining row, cut yarn leaving approx 50cm (20”) tail and NJ in 1st sc of joining row.
Now crochet with sc along unworked part of the zip opening (on the wrong side of the Front part).
When you come to the beginning of joining row, again - cut yarn leaving approx 50cm (20”) tail and finish with NJ to the beginning of joining row.
Pin zip to the opening on the bottom of the cover with a few sewing pins and sew it along the opening using yarn tails with running stitch. Secure the tails and cut yarn.
Ta-dah!!! Your very own Tapestry Circles Pillow cover is now finished!
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This blog contains affiliate links. If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support!
You will need:
- Yarn in 10 shades. I used Stone Washed by Scheepjes in shades 802, 820, 816, 815, 806, 817, 808, 813, 805 and 801. One skein of each shade (but you can create your own color combination if you wish).
- Crochet hook Clover Soft Touch* 3.25mm
- One zip – 30cm.
- Scissors and tapestry needle to weave yarn tails in.
Finished Measurements
The size of finished pillow cover will depend on yarn and hook you choose, and also on your personal gauge. My pillow is approx. 44cm x 44cm (17 ½” x 17 ½”).
Gauge
Gauge for front and back differs a bit, because of additional yarn going through front.
Front: 20 sts x 21 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”)
Back: 19 sts x 21 rows = 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”)
Level
Intermediate (though I believe advanced beginners can absolutely try tapestry crochet as well).
Stitch guide and Abbreviations
US standard abbreviations are used in this pattern. But if you are used to other terms, please check this Crochet Translation Project which might be helpful in translation to your native language.rnd(s) - round(s)
st(s) - stitch(es)
ch - chain
sl st (slip stitch) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw yarn up and pull 2nd lp through the 1st lp on hook.
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
NJ – needle join
*…* *crochet following directions* as many times as indicated
Important Notes
- If you have never tried tapestry crochet before, please, study THIS photo-tutorial first and make sure you understand the technique and can read the chart.
- Ch1 in the beginning of every row doesn’t count as sc. So 1st sc of every row is made in 1st sc of previous row.
- Change colour on the last yarn-over of the last sc of the relevant row. In the same way as in Windy Morning Shawlette (HERE).
INSTRUCTIONS
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Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2016. All rights reserved. This pattern is for unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce or sell the pattern. The pattern may not be copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Items may be sold that are made from this pattern as long as the designer is credited. Shop owners, if you wish to make a kit with yarn using this pattern, please request permission and copyright details from me before offering any kits for sale. Please, read Copyright page for more information.
FRONT
Front part of the pillow is made in tapestry crochet. Each repeat consists of 16 sts + 5sts to finish (for symmetry). I made 5 repeats, but you can make more (to make the pillow larger).
Each stripe with dots (18 rows) is made with yarn in 2 colors.
Row 1. Ch86 with 802 (C1). Starting in 2nd ch from hook sc in every ch to the end. (85sc) Turn.
Rows 2-3. Ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), 85sc. Turn.
Row 4. You will start working with shades 802 (C1) and 820 (C2) at the same time.
Ch1, *8sc with C1 (change yarn on 8th sc), 5sc with C2 (change yarn on 5th sc), 3sc with C1* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 5. Сh1, *7sc with C1, 5sc with C2, 2sc with C1* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 6. Сh1, *6sc with C1, 9sc with C2, 1sc with C1* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 7-12. Сh1, *5sc with C1, 11sc with C2* 5 times, 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 13. As row 6.
Row 14. As row 5.
Row 15. As row 4. Cut C2 leaving 15cm (6”) tail.
Row 16-18. With C1 as row 2. Change to 816. Cut C1 leaving 15 cm (6”) tail.
Next stripe (rows 19-36) will be worked with shades 816 (C3) and 815 (C4).
Rows 19-21. With C3. As row 2.
Row 22. Ch1, *5sc with C4, 11sc with C3* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Row 23. Ch1, *6sc with C4, 9sc with C3, 1sc with C4* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Row 24. Ch1, *7sc with C4, 7sc with C3, 2sc with C4* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Rows 25-30. Ch1, *8sc with C4, 5sc with C3, 3sc with C4* 5 times, 5sc with C4. Turn.
Row 31. As row 24.
Row 32. As row 23.
Row 33. As row 22. Cut C4 leaving 15cm (6”) tail.
Rows 34-36. With C3 as row2. Change to 806. Cut C1 leaving 15 cm (6”) tail.
Rows 37-54. Repeat rows 1-18 working with shades 806 (C1) and 801 (C2).
Rows 55-72. Repeat rows 19-36 working with shades 808 (C3) and 813 (C4).
Rows 73-90. Repeat rows 1-19 working with shades 805 (C1) and 817 (C2).
Note: after row 90 you should get a square shape.
After row 90 change to shade 808 and crochet around the whole square making 85sc on each side and 3sc in each corner (for even and neat work - make 17sc into every stripe on the sides). Finish with sl st in 1st sc of this rnd or with NJ in 2nd sc. Cut yarn and weave all tails in.
BACK
You have two options for the back. To make it easier, you can begin with the same stitch count as for front (ch86 and 85sc on each row) and make necessary amount of stripes to match the front in height. Since you will have the same stitch count on the bottom and top, it will be easy to join both parts together.
I wanted the back of my pillow to be composed of stripes which are later squared up with simple striped border. To imitate quilt. So I began with a smaller stitch count. Here is what I did:
Row 1. Ch75 with 802. Starting in 2nd ch from hook sc in every ch to the end. (75sc) Turn
Row 2-90. Ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), 75sc. Turn.
Color way:
Rows 1-9. Shade 802
Rows 10-18. Shade 820
Rows 19-27. Shade 815
Rows 28-36. Shade 816
Rows 37-45. Shade 806
Rows 46-54. Shade 808
Rows 55-63. Shade 817
Rows 64-72. Shade 813
Rows 73-81. Shade 801
Rows 82-90. Shade 805
After row 90 the back is approx. 40cm x 39 cm (16” x 15 ½”). To bring stitch count of the back to the same amount as front, change yarn to 808 after row 90 and start working around the whole square.
Rnd 1. 75sc on the top, 3sc in the corner, turn quarter and work 75sc on next side (you will make 7sc and 8sc in every other stripe), 3sc in next corner, 75 sc on the bottom, 3sc in corner, 75sc on next side (same as previous), 3sc in corner. Join with sl st in 1st sc of the rnd. Mark central sc in every corner.
Rnd 2. Ch1 (not a st), sc in same st. Continue crocheting around the square and make 3sc in every marked st in the corner. Join either with sl st in1st sc after ch1, or with Needle (invisible) Join into 2nd st after ch1 (see tutorial HERE). Fasten off. (77sc on each side + 3sc in every corner)
Rnds 3-4. Join shade 815 in any st after central st in the corner (by simply pulling a loop and making ch1) and sc around making 3sc in central st in each corner. Join as on rnd 2. Fasten off. (After rnd 4 you’ll get 81 sc on each side + 3 sc in every corner)
Rnds 5-6. With shade 817 repeat rnds 3 and 4. (After rnd 6 you’ll get 85 sc on each side + 3 sc in every corner. And this is the same stitch count as on front!)
After rnd 6 back part should be the same size as front!
JOINING
Place front and back with wrong sides facing (I liked the wrong side look of the border on the back, so I decided that wrong side will be right. But you may join the pillow as you like). You will crochet joning row on the back! With shade 813 start joining both parts on the bottom approx 5cm (2”) before the corner – for an appropriate size of the zip opening.
Important! Find central sc in the corner on both front and back and make sure you begin joining in the right st on front and back (the amount of sts till the corner should be the same!)
Crochet with sc till the 1st corner (insert the hook under all 4 loops), continue crocheting along 3 next sides, and make the same amount on another edge of the bottom as in the beginning. Don’t fasten off and continue to crochet with sc on the back only. When you come to the beginning of joining row, cut yarn leaving approx 50cm (20”) tail and NJ in 1st sc of joining row.
Now crochet with sc along unworked part of the zip opening (on the wrong side of the Front part).
When you come to the beginning of joining row, again - cut yarn leaving approx 50cm (20”) tail and finish with NJ to the beginning of joining row.
INSERTING ZIP
Pin zip to the opening on the bottom of the cover with a few sewing pins and sew it along the opening using yarn tails with running stitch. Secure the tails and cut yarn.
Ta-dah!!! Your very own Tapestry Circles Pillow cover is now finished!
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If you haven’t tried tapestry crochet technique yes, you definitely should. You
have probably come across lots of wonderful pictures of projects made in
tapestry crochet. And they may have looked too advanced or tricky to you. Mainly
because of multiple color changes and detailed images. But the truth is tapestry
crochet doesn’t differ much from traditional one. It uses ordinary single
crochet stitches (US term) but with yarns of several colors used at the same
time. So you crochet in usual way but change yarns from time to time to create a
colorful pattern. I've tried to explain tapestry process with pictures in a
photo-tutorial below. And I hope it will be helpful!
Disclosure: This blog post contains affiliate links marked with *. Thanks for your support!
Usually there are two types of instructions available for tapestry crochet patterns: written explanations and charts. I personally find it easier to work from the charts. They are the same as for cross stitch embroidery: you can clearly see where the change of the color happens and it’s easier to count.
The majority of tapestry projects are worked in round – so all the rounds are made on the right side. But you can also work in back and forth (as I did for my Tapestry Circles Pillow). Some very skillful crafters crochet all the rows on the right side, changing right and left hands. I am not so skillful, so I just crocheted my pillow cover in usual way. I got stripes on each side (as you usually do with single crochet), but I kinda like them!
2. The color is always changed when you still have 2 loops on the hook. So you will do it on the last yarn over (to finish last stitch in previous color). Now, after color is changed, place yarn C1 on the top of crocheted piece and continue to crochet with C2 over it.
3. If you do everything correctly, the yarn of different color will not be seen either on right or wrong side.
4. If you see the yarn through the stitches, try to pull the (inside) yarn a bit before every color change. But don’t pull too much, as your work may wrap! The width of your project should stay the same after every row.
5. You should crochet over yarn of different color while making EVERY stitch. Don’t miss any. Otherwise you will get floats of yarn on the right (or wrong side).
6. When you work in rows it is important that you decide on which side is right and which is wrong. It has nothing to do with the pattern, as it will be reversible. But it is important to know how you should begin each row. When starting row on the wrong side, you should hold second yarn in front of your work. And starting row on the right side - hold 2nd yarn behind the work. It will give small colorful waves on the wrong side, while right side will look nice and neat.
For this tutorial I used Stoned Washed* yarn by Scheepjes in shades 815 (C1) and 820 (C2). And 3.25mm Clover Soft Touch* crochet hook. The definition of the stitches with this yarn is very neat. And I would say it is great for tapestry crochet. The only disadvantage is that it is a bit difficult to frog. So you may want to use other yarn (scraps) to practice. But I would definitely recommend Stone Washed for your finished projects in tapestry crochet. I used it for my newest Tapestry Circles Pillow design. You can see the pictures HERE. And HERE is my review about Stoned Washed yarn.
I will show you the basics of tapestry crochet on the example of simple triangle. Here is the chart:
This small sample uses 2 colors of yarn. As you see first 4 rows are made in one color (C1 - aqua), and then the triangle pattern with C2 (pink) begins. Ch1 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as sc, so make 1st sc of each row in 1st st of previous row.
So, let’s try? :)
Row 1. Ch22 with yarn C1 (aqua). Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, sc in every ch till the end. (21sc) Turn.
Row 2-4. Ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), 21sc. Turn.
Row 5. On this row and next rows till 11th you will use C2 (pink) together with C1. Place C1 along the top of your crocheted piece and start crocheting over it, as shown above.
Ch1, 5sc with C1 (change color on 5th sc), 11sc with C2 (change color on 11th sc), 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 6. Ch1, 6sc with C1, 9sc with C2, 6sc with C1. Turn.
Row 7. Ch1, 7sc with C1, 7sc with C2, 7sc with C1. Turn.
Row 8. Ch1, 8sc with C1, 5sc with C2, 8sc with C1. Turn.
Row 9. Ch1, 9sc with C1, 3sc with C2, 9sc with C1. Turn.
Row 10. Ch1, 10sc with C1, 1sc with C2, 10sc with C1. Turn.
Now you can either cut C2 and work next rows with C1 only, or you can continue crocheting over all the stitches with C1 (over C2). In this way your crocheted fabric will have the same thickness.
In my sample I cut C2, because Stone Washed yarn seems thick enough to me, and the difference in thickness between the parts is not critical at all.
Row 11-14. Ch1, 21sc with C1. Turn.
Congratulations!!! Your first sample in tapestry crochet is finished! Did it work well for you? Please, share your opinions with me!
If you would like to learn more about Tapestry Crochet and try some free and paid patterns – be sure to check art work of Carol Ventura and her web-site HERE. And FREE pattern of my Tapestry Circles pillow will be very soon available here on my blog. UPDATE: the pattern is HERE.
You can subscribe to weekly newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Disclosure: This blog post contains affiliate links marked with *. Thanks for your support!
Usually there are two types of instructions available for tapestry crochet patterns: written explanations and charts. I personally find it easier to work from the charts. They are the same as for cross stitch embroidery: you can clearly see where the change of the color happens and it’s easier to count.
The majority of tapestry projects are worked in round – so all the rounds are made on the right side. But you can also work in back and forth (as I did for my Tapestry Circles Pillow). Some very skillful crafters crochet all the rows on the right side, changing right and left hands. I am not so skillful, so I just crocheted my pillow cover in usual way. I got stripes on each side (as you usually do with single crochet), but I kinda like them!
Copyright LillaBjornCrochet 2016. All rights reserved. This
tutorial is for
unlimited personal use only. Do not reproduce
it. The
tutorial may not be
copied in any way (print or digitally), in part or in full. Please, read
Copyright page
for more information.
What you should keep in mind:
- If you are new to tapestry crochet, choose thick yarn and larger hook to learn this technique. The yarn should not be fluffy, as you will not be able to see each and every stitch.
- Don’t crochet loose. I would say you should crochet tight. You will use several yarns at the same time, and crochet with one color over another one. And if you crochet too loose, another color will be seen through the stitches. And you want to avoid it.
- Your crochet hook should match yarn very well. If you feel like you don’t get the right tension, try to change hook to a smaller (or larger) one until you are satisfied with the look of your tapestry fabric.
Tapestry process and Important Notes:
1. Put yarn C2 on the top of previous row. Now you will continue crocheting with yarn C1 in the usual way - but at the same time over C2. Hold C2 with your left hand (if you are right-handed) together with crocheted piece, so that it’s easier for you to insert the hook.
2. The color is always changed when you still have 2 loops on the hook. So you will do it on the last yarn over (to finish last stitch in previous color). Now, after color is changed, place yarn C1 on the top of crocheted piece and continue to crochet with C2 over it.
3. If you do everything correctly, the yarn of different color will not be seen either on right or wrong side.
4. If you see the yarn through the stitches, try to pull the (inside) yarn a bit before every color change. But don’t pull too much, as your work may wrap! The width of your project should stay the same after every row.
5. You should crochet over yarn of different color while making EVERY stitch. Don’t miss any. Otherwise you will get floats of yarn on the right (or wrong side).
6. When you work in rows it is important that you decide on which side is right and which is wrong. It has nothing to do with the pattern, as it will be reversible. But it is important to know how you should begin each row. When starting row on the wrong side, you should hold second yarn in front of your work. And starting row on the right side - hold 2nd yarn behind the work. It will give small colorful waves on the wrong side, while right side will look nice and neat.
Instructions (Triangle Tapestry Sample)
For this tutorial I used Stoned Washed* yarn by Scheepjes in shades 815 (C1) and 820 (C2). And 3.25mm Clover Soft Touch* crochet hook. The definition of the stitches with this yarn is very neat. And I would say it is great for tapestry crochet. The only disadvantage is that it is a bit difficult to frog. So you may want to use other yarn (scraps) to practice. But I would definitely recommend Stone Washed for your finished projects in tapestry crochet. I used it for my newest Tapestry Circles Pillow design. You can see the pictures HERE. And HERE is my review about Stoned Washed yarn.
I will show you the basics of tapestry crochet on the example of simple triangle. Here is the chart:
This small sample uses 2 colors of yarn. As you see first 4 rows are made in one color (C1 - aqua), and then the triangle pattern with C2 (pink) begins. Ch1 in the beginning of each row doesn’t count as sc, so make 1st sc of each row in 1st st of previous row.
So, let’s try? :)
Row 1. Ch22 with yarn C1 (aqua). Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, sc in every ch till the end. (21sc) Turn.
Row 2-4. Ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), 21sc. Turn.
Row 5. On this row and next rows till 11th you will use C2 (pink) together with C1. Place C1 along the top of your crocheted piece and start crocheting over it, as shown above.
Ch1, 5sc with C1 (change color on 5th sc), 11sc with C2 (change color on 11th sc), 5sc with C1. Turn.
Row 6. Ch1, 6sc with C1, 9sc with C2, 6sc with C1. Turn.
Row 7. Ch1, 7sc with C1, 7sc with C2, 7sc with C1. Turn.
Row 8. Ch1, 8sc with C1, 5sc with C2, 8sc with C1. Turn.
Row 9. Ch1, 9sc with C1, 3sc with C2, 9sc with C1. Turn.
Row 10. Ch1, 10sc with C1, 1sc with C2, 10sc with C1. Turn.
Now you can either cut C2 and work next rows with C1 only, or you can continue crocheting over all the stitches with C1 (over C2). In this way your crocheted fabric will have the same thickness.
In my sample I cut C2, because Stone Washed yarn seems thick enough to me, and the difference in thickness between the parts is not critical at all.
Row 11-14. Ch1, 21sc with C1. Turn.
Congratulations!!! Your first sample in tapestry crochet is finished! Did it work well for you? Please, share your opinions with me!
If you would like to learn more about Tapestry Crochet and try some free and paid patterns – be sure to check art work of Carol Ventura and her web-site HERE. And FREE pattern of my Tapestry Circles pillow will be very soon available here on my blog. UPDATE: the pattern is HERE.
You can subscribe to weekly newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Ta-dah!! I love the days of these “big reveals” so much! Because I can finally share new design with you. And because I don’t need to keep silence any longer. Let me introduce my new Tapestry Circles Pillow. It is made in tapestry crochet and it is also reverse, as patterns for front and back differ and you can turn the pillow the side which speaks to your mood at any time.
Disclosure: This blog post contains affiliate links marked with *. Thanks for your support!
I have been thinking about trying tapestry crochet for 3 years already. I did learn it some time ago and used for reproducing cross stitch embroidery charts into crochet pillow covers. I liked the effect very much but was not sure if I can ever write my own pattern in tapestry crochet. But you know… I love challenges. So I took this one. And here is what I’ve come up with.
When I was thinking about pillow cover, I imagined it as a mixture of different shapes and colors. I wanted to include triangles, diamonds, circles and squares. But sometimes what seems great in your mind is not so great in real life. The magic rule “less is more” works pretty well for me (though sometimes I still continue to struggle and argue) and I gave up all the shapes except of the circles. And I don’t regret it at all!
With the colors it was a bit different. Here I didn’t measure myself at all. I just wanted to use as many shades as possible, and mix them in unpredictable way.
This pillow is made with Stone Washed - one of my most favourite yarns by Scheepjes. In my opinion it is great for making interior decorations. The pillow cover turned to be thick enough and stiff. Just with a very good feel of “tapestry fabric”. I am very happy with the choice.
You can have a look at Stone Washed yarn at Wool Warehouse* and Deramores* (both ship worldwide), Paradise Fibers* (US) or in your local Scheepjes shops.
My pillow cover consists of two parts with different patterns (circles on front and stripes framed into a square – on the back), but you can duplicate tapestry circles on both.
I also used zip to make it easier to take care of the pillow. But you can use buttons, if you wish!
Free pattern of this pillow will be published here, on my blog next week. And later this week I will also share with you a photo-tutorial on how to do tapestry crochet.
UPDATE: step-by-step tutorial about how to do tapestry crochet is HERE. And free pattern os this pillow is already HERE.
See you soon!
You can subscribe to weekly newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
Disclosure: This blog post contains affiliate links marked with *. Thanks for your support!
I have been thinking about trying tapestry crochet for 3 years already. I did learn it some time ago and used for reproducing cross stitch embroidery charts into crochet pillow covers. I liked the effect very much but was not sure if I can ever write my own pattern in tapestry crochet. But you know… I love challenges. So I took this one. And here is what I’ve come up with.
When I was thinking about pillow cover, I imagined it as a mixture of different shapes and colors. I wanted to include triangles, diamonds, circles and squares. But sometimes what seems great in your mind is not so great in real life. The magic rule “less is more” works pretty well for me (though sometimes I still continue to struggle and argue) and I gave up all the shapes except of the circles. And I don’t regret it at all!
With the colors it was a bit different. Here I didn’t measure myself at all. I just wanted to use as many shades as possible, and mix them in unpredictable way.
This pillow is made with Stone Washed - one of my most favourite yarns by Scheepjes. In my opinion it is great for making interior decorations. The pillow cover turned to be thick enough and stiff. Just with a very good feel of “tapestry fabric”. I am very happy with the choice.
You can have a look at Stone Washed yarn at Wool Warehouse* and Deramores* (both ship worldwide), Paradise Fibers* (US) or in your local Scheepjes shops.
My pillow cover consists of two parts with different patterns (circles on front and stripes framed into a square – on the back), but you can duplicate tapestry circles on both.
I also used zip to make it easier to take care of the pillow. But you can use buttons, if you wish!
Free pattern of this pillow will be published here, on my blog next week. And later this week I will also share with you a photo-tutorial on how to do tapestry crochet.
UPDATE: step-by-step tutorial about how to do tapestry crochet is HERE. And free pattern os this pillow is already HERE.
See you soon!
You can subscribe to weekly newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.
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