Grinda MAL: Part 1 (English US)

 Welcome to Grinda MAL! As you probably know this design was inspired by a boat trip to Stockholm Archipelago we took together with my husband last summer (read full story HERE). If you visit Stockholm, going out to the sea is a must-do. Not only because a boat trip offers a nice change from the city life. But because it’s a small adventure itself. And the sea scenery with small islands is amazing.

Stockholm Archipelago is a group of islands situated together in a kind of a cluster. And they are as many as tens of thousands! Every island is different in size and shape. Some of them are larger and thus have become city suburbs linked to the mainland with bridges and ferries. For tourists taking a ferry out to the sea is a part of relaxed sightseeing. And for many local people it’s just another, very convenient, way to get to work, for example.

Ferries leave regularly in small intervals. And tickets are available at the boat station. Each ferry has its own name, which I find very charming. So today we are leaving Stockholm and take the boat to the islands. Take your seat (preferably outside to enjoy fantastic sea views), breath out, order a cup of tasty coffee and get your hook and Whirl ready. Our adventure begins… now!

… By the way, which color Stockholm is, what do you think? It seemed yellow-ish and pale-orange-ish to me. A very nice contrast with dark grey and heavy clouds.

Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete shawl pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

 

Translations:


An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2018. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, shared, republished (online and off-line), redistributed, translated without permission or edited in any way – in part or in a whole. Please, always credit me as a designer. Thank you!

Materials:

Whirl (Woolly Whirl or Frosted Whirl) yarn by Scheepjes – 1 cake. (225g/7.94 oz., 1000m/1094 yds)
Yarn weight: Fingering (14 wpi)

!! Important:
The shawl uses approx. 210g of Whirl. To be safe you might want to order one matching cake of Whirlette by Scheepjes. Leftovers can be used to extend the shawl (directions given in the pattern) or to make a fringe.

Alternative yarn: 3 cakes of Whirlette yarn by Scheepjes.

DISCLOSURE: This blog contains affiliate links (marked with *). If you purchase a product via a link on my blog, I get a small percentage contribution from the store which enables me to keep providing you with free patterns. It costs you nothing extra to visit the store via my link, but ensure I get the credit for the sale. Thank you for your support! 
 
Both Whirl and Whirlette yarn are available for purchase in your local Scheepjes shops or via online retailers: Deramores* has put together kits for all samples shown in this blog post (UK, international shipping), Wool Warehouse* and Black Sheep Wools* (both in UK, international shipping) 
Caro’s Atelier* (NL and Europe),
Knotty House* (Canada).

3mm/3.25mm crochet hook* (or the size needed to obtain correct gauge), scissors, tapestry needle to weave in tails.

Gauge: after Row 6 the triangle is approx. 5cm/2in high.

Size: the size of your finished shawl will depend on the yarn and hook you use, and on your personal gauge. My shawl is approx. 180cm/70.8” wide across and approx. 85cm/33.5” high.
Extended version is 208cm/81.8” wide and 95cm/37.4” high.

Abbreviations (US terms) and Stitch Guide:


beg - beginning
ch - chain
st(s) – stitch(es)
sp(s) – space(s)
yo – yarn over
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
sc (single crochet) – insert hook in indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, yo and pull through both lps on hook.
dc (double crochet) – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
FPdc (front post double crochet) – yo, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of indicated stitch, yo, draw up a lp, *yo, pull through 2 lps* twice.
pc (popcorn) – *yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a lp, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice* 5 times in same st, drop lp from hook, insert hook from front to back through top of first dc made, place dropped lp on hook and pull through st.
[…] [crochet following directions] as many times as indicated

Special stitches:


V-st – (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in same sp
“lace st” – ch3, skip next sp and dc, 1sc in next sp, ch3, skip next dc and sp, 1dc in next dc
Picot – ch3, 1 slip stitch in first ch.

Pattern Notes:


  • Grinda Shawl is worked in rows back and forth
  • Feel free to place stitch marker in ch2-sp in the central corner to easily find it. Move marker to new rows as you progress.
  • Ch4 in the beginning of every row counts as 1dc and ch1-sp. So when making sts in last st of every round – make them into third ch of beginning ch4.






INSTRUCTIONS

PART 1

Dimensions (blocked): approx. 42cm/16.5” wide, 18cm/7” high
Approx. 12 g of yarn used

Row 1. Make magic ring, ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1-sp – here and throughout), (1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch1, 1dc) into ring, tighten the ring, turn. (4dc, 2 ch1-sps, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 2. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st, ch1, V-st in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st (third ch of the beg 4 ch – here and throughout), turn. (4 dc and 3 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 3. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st] till corner, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] till last st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (6 dc and 5 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 4. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st, 1 lace st, ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] twice, 1 lace st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (6 dc, 1 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 2 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 5. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, [ch1, 1dc in next sp] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (10 dc and 9 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 6. Ch4, 1dc in same st, repeat lace st till corner, ch1, V-st in corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till end, ch1, one more dc in last st, turn. (6 dc, 3 sc, 2 ch1-sp and 6 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

At this point triangle should be 5cm/2in high.

Row 7. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till one dc before the corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next dc] till last st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (14 dc and 13 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 8. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till 2 dc left before the corner, [ch1, skip sp, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, repeat lace st till 2 dc left, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (10 dc, 3 sc, 6 ch1-sps and 6 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 9. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 3 dc left before the corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x4, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 3 dc left, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (18 dc and 17 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 10. Ch4, 1dc in same st, ch1, 1dc in next st, repeat lace st till 1dc left before the corner, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, repeat lace st till 1 dc left, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (10 dc, 5 sc, 4 ch1-sps and 10 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 11. Ch4, 1dc in same st, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 2 dc left before the corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x2, ch1, V-st in corner, [ch1, 1dc in next st] x3, [ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next sp, ch1, 1dc in next st] till 2 dc left, ch1, 1dc in next st, ch1, (1dc, ch1, 1dc) in last st, turn. (22 dc and 21 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 12. As Row 6 (10 dc, 7 sc, 2 ch1-sps and 14 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)





Row 13. As Row 7. (26 dc and 25 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 14. As Row 8. (14 dc, 7sc, 6 ch1-sps and 14 ch3-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 15. As Row 9. (30 dc and 29 ch1-sps on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 16 RS. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 2dc in same st, [1dc in next sp, 1dc in next st] till corner, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner, [1dc in next st, 1dc in next sp] till end, 3 more dc in last sp, turn. (63 dc on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)

Row 17 WS. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 2dc in same st, 1FPdc around each st till corner, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in corner, 1FPdc around each st till last ch3-sp, 3dc in last sp, turn. (67 sts on each side, ch2-sp in the corner)



Buy a ready-to-print pdf with ALL parts (complete shawl pattern) HERE on Ravelry and HERE on Etsy.

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33 comments

  1. Hi, I can't find the print friendly button. Could you please add it? :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I can see it :) Please, try to reload the page. The code is not stable for this button and sometimes it can move itself :)

      Delete
    2. On mine, it's at the bottom. Right above where these comments start and on the right.

      Delete
  2. Spanish translation would be possible? Thank you! <3 <3

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I don't speak Spanish myself and I don't know anyone who could translate the pattern... sorry.

      Delete
    2. Hi Lilla, I volunteer to translate to Spanish if you wish.

      Delete
  3. I can't find the print button for the US version either????

    ReplyDelete
  4. Kathleen Bryant11 July 2018 at 22:05

    Have reloaded page several times and still cannot find the "print" button.

    ReplyDelete
  5. I purchased the pattern on Ravelry today but first started with the directions on your blog. I found the blog directions use a dc for the majority of the stitches for rows 1-17 while the purchased pattern uses tr instead of dc. Which is correct?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Both are correct but there is a diference between UK and US versions (different crochet terms). Please, choose the one you prefer.

      Delete
  6. Do you know approximately how much yarn the extended version uses? As I’m starting with the whirlette so need to try and judge when to swap to the whirl. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Extended version uses approx. 300g in total. Part 1 = 12g, After Part 2 = 56g, After Part 3 = 106g, after Part 4 = 185g, after extension = 270g. All numbers are for a total piece after each part.

      Delete
  7. Do you block each section or just at the end??

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  8. Hi beautiful pattern I am excited to get started! Just a quick question what is the yarn colorway that was used on your 20180620 “Grinda MAL coming soon” post the one where you are sitting crocheting with your bare feet?

    ReplyDelete
  9. Hi i cant figure out how row 16 is RS if row 1 starts as RS that makes odd no. Rows RS & even no. WS

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Row 1 is on WS :) but till row 17 it doesn't really matter as both sides look the same :)

      Delete
  10. Hi,
    I love the centre colourway on the intro page, petrol & purples, can you please tell me the name so I can make it in the same colours.
    Thanks
    Jill

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Jill, can you specify which exactly intro picture you mean? in this blog post or in another one?

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    2. Sorry, I just clicked on part 1 , not realising I was on scheepjes web site the link is:
      Again it is the centre one of the 3 at the top of the page
      http://www.scheepjes.com/en/cals/scheepjes-make-a-long/grinda-shawl-mal/

      Delete
  11. I am having a little trouble with the second part of row one. I have never seen instructions written like this. Can you help me clarify where the 4 dc go in? Do they go into the chain 1 space? Then ch2-sp in corner, tha

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Stitches given in the brackets after "turn" are just stitch counts for the row to help you keep on track. they are not instructions for the row.

      Delete
  12. Wow! This is fun and your directions are very clear. Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Hello! I purchased the pattern on Ravelry. It calls for triple stitch (tr) instead of double stitch (db) throughout. Confusion in the Americas! Can you help?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Please, go to your files agaon and choose US (not UK) file :)

      Delete
  14. Hi, live this pattern! This might be a stupid question...do I start from the middle of the yarn Whirl or from the outside? Or does it depend on my colour choice?
    Thanks!
    Caz

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Caz, that depends on your own preference :) No rule here.

      Delete
  15. Hi, Are you planning on making a tutorial to go with the "Grinds Shawl"? I am having trouble understanding where you put your hook after you turn on the first row. Help.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Stitches given in the brackets after "turn" are just stitch counts for the row to help you keep on track. they are not instructions for the row.

      Delete
  16. Am I correct that there is not a photo tutorial for Grinda?

    ReplyDelete

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